FRONTISPIECE Z|
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CAPTAIN JAMES COOK FZ.
His FinsT VOYAGE performed in the Years , 1768,1769,1770,1771. —————_______ 972,,19773,1774, 1775.
A COLLECTION OF
Voyages round the World:
PERFORMED:
I~ .By ROYAL AUTHORITY.
| & Containing a complete Hisrorrear Account of 7 “Capen” COO K’s | _. * Firft, Second, Third and Laft WV 0O.Y A’ G-E S, UNDERTAKEN For making New Difcoveries, &c. viz.
‘His Firnst—in the Endeavour, in the Years 1768; 1769, 1779, and. 2971». in the Sourthen Hemifphere, &c. His Seconp—in the Refolution and Adventure, in the Years 1772, 17735 1774 and 1775, for am further Difcoveries towards the Sout Pole, and round the World 3 His se and Last—in the Refolution and Difccuery, to the Pas : = Ocean, in the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780, in Northern Hemifphere, &c. . Comprehending the Life and. . Death of Capt. Cook, Sc. Together with Capt. Furneaux’s Nar- - rative of his Proceedings in the Adventure during the Separation | of the Ships in the Second Voyage, in which Period feveral of his . People were deftroyed by the Natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound. TO WHICH ARE ADDED sat Giiaios Narratives of other Voyages of Difcovery round the World, ©c. vit» thofe '» {of Lord Byron, ge ah ~ Watts, Capt. Cartiner, Lord Moutcrave, | Lord Anson; Mr. Panrinson, Capt. ‘Lorwipce, - Ives, Mip~ DLE “ON, Smitn, &c. &c. Includitig the Sabftance of all the moft remark~’ ~ able and important Travels and Fourags, which have been aes a various Times to the different Quarters of the World. ta
THE WHOLE COMPREHENDING 7
A full Account of whatever iscurious, entertaining, ard ufetul, both’ 2 by Sea and Land, in the various Countries of the know... World, x Peing the moft elegant and perfect Work of the Kind, ae
Tluftrated with a vaft Numberof Copperplates finely engraved by the moft oe 4
This EDITION is com ip a from the AUTHENTIC JOURNALS of feveral Princi Officers and other Gentlemen of the moft diftingu waval and sar Eanes &
Hiss, who Caled in ee various Ships. .
VOL f..
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“The PREFACE. |
oe | i. of the important eg and Turd
Baa. VOYAGES .and DISCOVERIES ‘df the lste. Capt. | Cook, ate acknowledged by all Ranks of People; con-
‘ fequently it might be deemed impertinent here to at-
4 tempt. any Encomiums on the arduous but exact Re- — fearches of this eminent: and valuable Navigator, isi \ / ; j which Difcoveries. have been made far greater than
thofe. of all the other Navigators in the World, from __the:. Expedition..of Columbus: to the prefent Time. Capt, Cook is unqueftionably allowed: to have been the
oe - able(t and ‘moft renowned Circumpavigator this or any ae _- other Country: has .produced ; and ‘every enlightened ie Nation muft deplore his being unfortunately killed by ‘ala . ~ the Savages of. the land Owhyhee on the-14th of Fe- ee ees ye ps 1979, when profecuting. his: Tuirxo Voyracez tt i roundthe Globe... " ‘/™ _ -,This,great Man poffeffed, in an eminent Degree, all per _«: the Qualifications requifite for his Profeffion and great
ndertakings,..He was cool and deliberate in judging;
_ Sagacious in.determining$ active in executing ; fteady - and .perfevering in. Enterprizes ;. vigilant, with unre- initting Caution ; unfubdued by Labour, Difficulties,
3 : and -Difappointments ; fertile in. Expedients; never, bay - wanting Prefence of Mind; alwa -polieing himfelf ie _.. Of-the full Ufe af: a found Unde ing; mild, juft,
but exaét in Difcipline. His Knowledge, his Expe-
rience, his Sagacity, rendered him fo intirely. Matter
Re m . bf his Subjeét, that the greateft \Obftacles were far- » aie _ Mourtted, and the moft dangérous’Navigations became
Pee -. tafy, and dlmoft fafe under his Direftion.:. He exploted
Ue) - the Southern Hemifphereé, &c: toa much bi hier Lati« cae _ .tude-than had evet:been reached, .and with fewer Ac? | » idents.than frequently befall thofe who navigate the
ae :. Qnafls..of Great. Britain: » By his Attention té the “ * Welfare of his Ship's Company, he difcovered and in
g ‘
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es , ; bs : eit ‘ bas " a8 ‘ 4 4 . . nl ; Pete b| % : : , . . bs , \, ¥ 4 Ht <
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tv PREFAC E.
troduced a Sytem. for the Prefe ery: razon of
perth Pa hb on erfu ia -his.Sec rou
the Weld, Ttidcontnwad vpwar of Hite vours,
he loft only one Man by poten of Pi Hundred
and Hightesa: Resions,-of whém his Company ‘can-
fifted,
pare Death of f this ato Man. was te roar in general eager A 7 on
every. Nation. that. refpeéts. ufetul conaplidumente and honovss Science. -It in ftilt Bn. to pecs deplored hy this Country, which: may juftly boaft of having duced. 3 Man hitherto. unequalled for nautical: Fa¢ 3 and that Sorrow is farther: aggravated -by: the Reflection,’ that -his Countsy was. deprived: of this Or- nament. by the Exmity of 4. Reople, from whom, 'in- deed, it might, hawe heen: dreaded; but from whom it was. not deferved: for, Capt. Cook frequently inter. pore at the Hazard.of his Life, to.proteét thefe very: eople from the fudden Refentment of. his own injured Ship's Craw, Les.us contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this preat Naviga ofe Skill and: Labours have enlarged natural. P Philofenk hy. ; _ extended nau- tical, Science 5. and have difclafed: the long concealed and. adsnirable Arrangements.of. the Almighty-in. the
‘Formation. ef ‘this. Glebe, and: at the fame ‘Fime the
Arrogance, of, Mortals, in. prefuming to account, by their Speculations, for the Laws. by, whieh he was pleafed to create it. It is now difcovered, beyond:all call doubt, that, the. ona Great. Being who. created. the Uniyerfe by his Fiag, b y the fame ordained our Earth, to keep a juft Poife, without a correfponding Southern Continent, The arduous and-.accurate Refearches: of this. extraordinary.:Man, have difcovered:Seas un- navigated and unknown before. ‘They een ve acquainted with: IMlands, People, and roductions, of
which.we had: no Conception: and.he will be revered, while . there remains this authentic Account*of his Thr tive Voyages, and as long: as.Mariners and:
Shets thal tracey the various. Couslte, and Dif
bayuiig 3° Pear EN During
| ed i
@ 25 eww t
PREFACE ¢
- During the Three long and tedious nee asages in which he was en » his Eagernefs and Activity were never in-the leat abated. No incidental: Temptation. could detain him for a Moment; even thofe Intervals of Ree
creation, which fometimes unavoidably occurred, and
were looked for with a longing, ‘that Perfons "who have experienced the Fatigues of. Service, will readily excufe, were fybmitted to by him with a certain Impatience, whenever they could not be ém- ployed in making further Provifion’ for the more ef: fectual: Profecution of: his Defigns.
Je is not neceflary here to enumerate the’ artical Inftances in whieh thefe Qualities were difplayed during the great and important Enterprizes in. w ich he ‘was engaged: We thall content ourfelves. now with facing: the Refult of thofe Services, under the two principal : Heads. to which they. may be referred, thofe of Geography and Navigation, placing. each in, a feparate i& Point of View,
‘Perhaps no. Science ever reerazod greater Additions from the Of a fingle Man ye Hae Geography hav dine fins: Beko of Capita Coo k. Inh ik Voyage to- the: South Seas, ditcovered the- Saciet Ef wad determined the Tn ch fees of New arr
‘In as rote Poyoge round. the World, he refolved, the great Problem of a Southern Continent ; havin ing 0)
traverfed that Hemif re, between the Latitudes “FPorty-and Sevent o 9
rees, in fuch a Manner, as not Fao pHa Noctauton agg wo \-¥ Eoyage, lie: idifeovered New bats nea the lar ; "Mont ie: Southern oe ic, excren Day Zealead Grorgia, a a Coaft, whic named Sandwich: | the Thule of the Southern
He | mabye and ght twice veer the heats ee
A gmenet
ei PREF ACO &
he fettled the Situations of the old;. and, made feveral new Difcoveries, all of which (as well as thofe inthe Firft Fayage ) fhalt be particularized in the following Sheets: _ | But his third Voyage (2 full Account of which we fhall alle give in this Work) is diftingtithed. by the Exteht and Importance of its Diftoveries... Befides feveral fnallér [ands iti the Southern Pacificy he dif: covered to the North of the Equinoétial Line; the Group called the Sandivich [lands ; whieh, froin their Situations and Produétions, bid fairer -for becoming an Object of Confequence; in, the Syftein. bf: European Navigation, than any other Difcovery in.the South Sea; He afterwards explored, what had hitherto remained nknown, of the Weftern Coait of America, from the Latitude of forty-three ‘to feventy: ‘Degrees ‘North petaiony an. Extent of three Thoufand five Hundred les ; afcertained the Proximity of the:Two great Con: tinents of Afia and America; pafied the. Streights bes tween them, and Jurveyed the Coafton each Side, to fach Height of. Northern Latitude, as. to'demonityate the mpracticability of a. Paffage in.that: Hemifphere, from the Atlantic into the py Ocean, either-by-an Ezfern or a Weffern Courfe.. In thort, if we-except. the Sea of Amur, aud the Japanefe Archipelago, which itll re- main but imperfectly. known to Eurcpeans,® he. has completed the Hydrography ‘of the habitable Globe. .. The. Public Curiofity being excited to the highceft Degree refpecting Capt. Coox’s Voyages (particularly * Kis Third and La? Expedition to the Pactric Oczan) it“is neceflary to caution the Public againft.,the. Ini- ‘ fition of all-mutilated, imperfect, ‘and {purious Edi- ‘ions, Abridgements, and .Compendiums of thefée Works; -fuch. Publications .not being calculated to convey to the Reader that Satisfaction fo-naturally exé ; gid. The Work now refpedfully ‘offered: te. the Public, will contain a For, Account of Capt: Cook's _ Voyages, Complete, with all- the fine Iplendid Coppers
_ plates... ‘Jt is unneceffary to point out the obvious lin- . va of all Publications: whith pestedey ily a
ingle Voyage of the very celebrated ‘Capt. Three ditrces rated
1% sig’
creat Voyages..are {0 ,immedistely gonnetted . Bie ate fy ah cae ee
Sees rwoqonPoadures:
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together, that owing to frequent. References from gne to-another, no Perfon can form a. fatisfaétory Idea of his valuable Difcoveries, who does not read ‘his’ Firf, Second, and. Third Voyages, in the order in which they were performed. and written; In the probate very com plete, improved, and genuine Edition (for whieh nume+ rous Readers -have been waiting with Impatience) we therefore confider it as our indifpenfible Duty to: begi with a. full -Account.of: his irl Voyage ‘round’ t World; .after .which we ‘fhall: record .2n‘ authentic Hiftory of his. Second Veyage;: and. then’. proceed to a full, faithful and accurate: Relation of his much admired Third and laft Voyagetound the Globe, -béing. ~ principally undertaken for new: Difcoveries in the -acilf
which he unfortunately loft: his Life, all the Particu- lars.of which we fhall hereafter relate. |
"This Work will beilluftrated with (befides the curious.
and. interetting Cuts for his FIRST and ‘SECOND VOYAGES, &c. all the elegant, fplendid, and fine €COPPER-PLATES; belonging to his THIRD and LAST VOYAGE, being Views of. Places, Portraits of Perfons, and hiftorical Reprefentations of remarkable
Incidents, duting’ this ‘celebrated ‘ Navigator’s VOY- |
AGE to the PACIFIC OCEAN; together with the neceffary Maps, Charts, Plans, Draughts, &c. fhewing the Tht ai rata se relacing ga now frit difcovered, or hitherto byt im
known; the Whole (amountin to between ONE ad TWQ HUNDRED mof, Execawr. and.:Supzrs EN- GRAVINGS) finely engraved and accurately copied from the ‘Originals by the moft emifent ‘Matters: Therefore, by the Publication of this Genuine and COMPLETE COLLECTION of the Whole of Captain
. COOK’s VOYAGES, &. jn OCTAYVO, all of
erfons whatever may be accommodated, and ‘the Public Curiofity, fo naturally excited Uy the Report of fuch sxtaaonpinaky Voraczs and Discovesiss, will be immediately and cheaply gratified —The Poor well asthe Rich will thus become familiarly ae-
Ocean, .&c. &c.: and: in the Profecution’of —
ary and important Voy-
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A New, Genuine, and Complete
HISTORY of
THE WHOLE or
) b] Capt. Cook’s Voyages, , UNDERTAKEN AND PERFORMED
By ROYAL AUTHORITY.
Being the moft Accurate, Elegant, and Perfect. Edition of the whole Worxs and Discoveries of that celebrated Circumnavigator, ever publifhed. ‘The whole Written in a more pleafing and elegant Stile than any other Work of the Kind and Size.
eee A Eh EECA RN nea
HL cay em, |
emcee}! ae}, a |) . a) Leh I ree men ce al Leal ——— mej) Fc eeail ial PRY =a ome |’ renmees somes! C mmmetel 1 cme | / | may | omen () —
“Sal
A Fall and Satisfactory HISTORY of
Capt. Coox’s FIRST VOYAGE round the WORLD, undertaken and performed by Order of his pre- fent Majesty, in his Mayesty’s Ship, the
- Enpeavour, principally for making Difcoveries in
the Sournzrn Hemispnere, &c. &c.
Begun the latter End of Auguft 1768, and con- cluded the 12th of June 1771; containing a Period
of nearly THrez Years, in which was compleated the Circumnavigation of the Globe.
Hs
INTRODUCTION.
de the Achga being confidered as the grand re- pofitory of ufeful and interefting knowledge, have juftly engaged the attention of mankind in all ages. In this ample field the attention of curiof
ty 2° NO. 1. B is
IO CooKk’s FIRST VOYAGE
is gratified by a va variety of interefting fcenes ; ah works of this kind are of ‘national confequence, while, at the fame time, they afford a rich fund of alpen to all thofe who delight to {pend a leifure our in rational amufement. With refpect to Captain Cook’s fir/?* Voyage round the world, which was in the EnpEavovr, it has fo much attracted the notice of the world, that it cannot be too particularly related, nor too niccly examined ; and’a principal advantage accrue ing from the following narrative is, that the fame fto- ries fet in different lights as they ftrike the obferver, cannot fail of being a fource of frefh intelligence; of fhewing formeraccounts througha new medium, andof placing them in a more ftriking point of accuracy, ; judiciouis ‘corrections, ‘and additional improvements. The firft voyage, which is the fubje¢ct of opr prefent narrative, was undertaken by order of his. prefent majefty, for making difcoveries in the fouthern he- miiphere, &c. Captain Cook was appointed commander of the Endeavour; and with him embarked Mr. (now Sir Jofeph) Banks. and: Dr. Solander, whote.principal objects in this expedition were, to obferve the tranfit of Venus, and to attempt afterwards farther difco- veries. Mr. Jofeph Banks and Dr. Solander were men of diftinguifhed abilities. The firft of thefe gen- tlemen was poffeffed of confiderable landed property in Lincolnfhire; and, upon his leaving the Univerfity of Oxford, A.D. 1763, he made a voyage to the
*. It is unneceflary to point out the obvious imperfections of all publi- cations which include only. a fingle voyage of the very celebrated Capt. Cook ; his'shree different voyages are fo immediately connetted toge- ther, that owing to-frequent references from one to another, no pi can form a fatistaétory idea of his valuable difcoveries, who does not read his firf?, econd, and third voyages in the’order in which they were performed and written : in. the prefent very complete, improved and genuine Edition (for which numerous readers have been waiting with iapericne) we therefore confider it as our indifpenfible duty to begin with a fx account of his Fig? Voyage ; after which we fhall record an authenti¢
hiftory of his SecomdVoyage ; and then proceed to a faithful and accurate - relation of his much admired Third and latt Voyage round the world, being © that pei undertaken for new difcoveries in the Pacific ocean, &C. &Ce and in the profecution of which he unfortunately /o/ his Le. fe es . Cass
-
ishac
nhSGaos =p 4 «
Rounvp tHe Wortp. * 1!
coafts of Newfoundland and Labradore. Notwith-' ftanding the dangers and difficulties that attended his’ firft expedition, Mr. Banks returned undifcouraged ;” and when the Endeavour was equipping for a voyage to the South Seas, he determined to embark with the: adventurers, from the laudable motive of enriching his native country with the knowledge of unknown productions, and new difcoveries, ; )
Dr. Solander, whom Mr. Banks engaged to accom- pany him, had been appointed to a place in the Bri- tifh Mufeum, then juft eftablifhed, which he filled with credit to himfele, and in which he gave univerfal fatisfaction. The Doctor was a native of Sweden, and a man of great learning, being an adept in natural phi- lofophy, and who had ftudied under the famous Lin- neus.: Mr. Banks, befides the important and valua- ble acquifition of this gentleman, took with him two draughtfmen, the one: being intended to paint fub- jects of natural hiftory, and the other to delineate figures and landfcapes. He had likewife four fervants, two of whom were negroes, and a fecretary in his re- tinue. Both Capt. Cook and Mr. Banks kept accu- rate and circumftantial journals of this voyage. The papers of Capt. Cook contained a minute account of all nautical incidents, and a very particular cle- {cription of the figure and extent of the countries he had vifited ; and in thofe of Mr. Banks were found a great variety of incidents which had not come under the infpection of Capt. Cook ; befides, fome officers, and the more inte ligent of the fhip’s crew, have communicated*to their friends, innumerable natural and artificial curiofiti¢s, with defcriptions of the people, and countries, their productions, manners, cuftoms, religion, policy, and language. Materials fo interefting and copious, will be thought quite fufi- cient to-furnith the public with the following New and. Complete Edition of the whole of Capt. Cook’s Voyages, &c. in which will be contained all the cu- rious remarks made by feveral gentlemen engaged in thefe celebrated expeditions ; and it is our intention mists e : B 2 to
12 Coox’s First VOYAGE
to place every important incident in various points of view, that our readers may be complete judges of the valuable nature of the new difcoveries, and of the preference which is due to this elegant, though Cheap Edition.
The preparations for this important work have been fuitable to its ineftimable value, and our earneft con- cern for its credit; while wealth and fcience have united their powers for the purpofes of public benefit. Many of the firft literary characters of the age have favoured us with their afliftance: not only the great outlines of nature, but the variety of fhades within have been carefully attended to, and not.a fingle material, fhall. be. neglected which may embellith the narratives, and give life and beauty particularly to all the Three refpective Voyages of this unparalleled Navigator. We-therefore fubmit this undertaking to the judgment of the public, founding our claims to their favour on MERIT ALONE, knowing, it is only on tuis folid foundation we can hope and expect their encouragement and protection, _
RounD THE WORLD.
.. Oo: 8" RC iy, CHAP. I.
: mn
The departure of the Endeavour from Plymouth——Her paffage to the ifland of Madeira—A defcription of its natural curiofities and trade—A particular account of Funchiale, the capital of Madeiru—The paffage from Madeira to Rio de Faneivo—An account of this capital of the Portuguefe dominions in South America, and of the circumjacent country—TIncidents that happened while the Endeavour lay in the harbour of Rio de Faneiro.
HE Endeavour, a bark of three hundred and twenty tons, which had been originally built for the Coal-trade, was appointed to the fervice of Capt. Cook’s firft voyage round the world, having on board ten carriage and twelve {fwivel guns. On Auguft the 26th, 1768, we therefore got under fail,’
- and took our departure from Plymouth. On the 31ft,
we faw feveral of thofe birds, called by feamen Mother Carey’s Chickens, and which they think prognifticate a ftorm. On the 2d of September we faw land be- tween Cape Finifterre, and Cape Ortegal, on the coaft of Gallicia in Spain, In this courfe fome marine animals were difcovered, ‘hitherto unnoticed by na-. turalifts. One of: thefe, defcribed as a new {pecies, is.of an angular form, near three inches in length, and one thick. It has.a hollow paflage quite through it, and a brown fpot at one end. Four of thefe ani- ’ mals appeared to adhere together by their fides; but when put into water, they feparated, and fwam about, fhining with a brightnefs refembling the vivid colour of a gem. We alfo difcovered another ani- mal, exceeding in variety and brightnefs any thing
‘we had feen; even ia colour and {plendor equal to
thofe of an opal. At the diftance of about ten leagues from Cape Finifterre, we caught among the rigging of the thip feveral birds not defcribed by Linnzus. edt ‘On
et
la NES DDR phe e i UE i Ble NS i Bh es Th Ts NONE hig acd 8 Meni — ae Fe eT Sit a ow -
14 Cook’s FIRST VOYAGE
On the 12th we difcovered Puerto Santo and Ma- deira, and on the day following, moored with the ftream anchor in the road of Funchiale. In heaving up the anchor, Mr. Weir, the mafter’s mate, was unfortunately carried overboard and drowned. Upon approaching the ifland of Madeira from the fea, it appears exceeding beautiful, the fides of the hills being covered with plantations of vines, which are green when all kinds of herbage, except here and there, are burnt up, which was the cafe at this time. On the 13th in the forenoon the boat came from the officers of health, no one being fuffered to land from on board a fhip without their permiffion. When this was granted, we landed at Funchiale, the chief town in the ifland, and proceeded direétly to the houfe of Mr. Cheap, a confiderable merchant, and at that time the Englifh conful there, who received us with a brotherly kindnefs, and treated us with a princely liberality. We'continued on the ifland only five days, during which time the feafon was the wo in the year for fearching after natural curiofities ; however, the two gentlemen, Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks, pufhed their excurfions about three miles from
_ the town, and collected a few plants in flower, by the
obliging attention of Dr. Heberden, the chief phy-
‘fician of the ifland; and brother to Dr. Heberden of
London. Mr. Banks enquired after and found the
tree called Laura Indicus, the wood of which he fup- .
pofes to be what is called the Madeira mahogany, as there is no real mahogany upon the ifland.
' The inhabitants of Madeira have no other article of trade than wine, which is made by prefling the juice out in a fquare wooden veffel. The fize of this is proportioned to the quantity of wine; and the fer-
~‘vants, having taken off their ftockings and jackets,
get into it, and with their elbows and feet prefs.out as much of the juice as they cah. In like\ manner the ftalks, being tied together, are preffed' under a f{quare piece of wood, by a lever with a ftone faftened to'the end of it. : ys (th OL
aed During
ee ee ee eee eee
tate Po
bate Preng
d Ma- th the -aving °, was
ym the of the which re and time. ie from to land When e chief to the and at ived us with a nd only 1e wor 1ofities 5 nnd Mr. es from , by the ef phy- prden of nd the
rany, as
rticle of e juice this is the fer- jackets, prefs out manner under a
faftened
he fup- -
During
RounpD THE WorRLpD. 15
During our ftay upon this ifland we faw no wheel- carriages of any fort, nor have the people any thing that refemblesthem, except a hollow board, ox fledge, upon which thofe wine veflcls are drawn that are too big to be carried by hand. ‘They have alfo horfes and mules very proper for their roads, but their wine is, notwithftanding, brought to town from the vine- yards where it is made, in veffels of goat-(kins, which ‘are carried by men on their heads. :
Nature has been very liberal in her gifts to Madeira, The inhabitants are not without ingenuity, but they want induftry. The foil is fo very rich, and there 1s fuch a variety in the climate, that there is fcarcely any article either of the neceflaries or luxuries of life, which cannot probably be cultivated here. On the hills, walnuts, chefnuts, and apples flourifh, almoft without culture. Pine-apples, mangoes, guanas, and bananas, grow almoft fpontaneouily in the town. They have corn which is large grained and fine, and it might be produced in plenty; but for want of be- ing attended to, all they confume is imported from other countries, Beef, mutton, and pork are. re- markably good, and the captain took fome of the former on board for his own ufe. : .
Funchiale (which took its name from Foncho) fig- nifying fennel in the Portuguefe language) is fituate at the bottom of a bay, and though it is extenfive in proportion to the reft of the ifland, it is but poorly, built, and the ftreets are narrow and badly paved.. The churches are full of ornaments, with pictures and images of faints; the firft are, for the moft part,
-wretchedly executed, and the latter are dreffed in
laced cloaths, The tafte of the convents, efpecially of the Francifcans, is better; neatnefs and fimplicity being united in moft of the defigns of the latter. The infirmary alfo is a piece of good architeéture, and one of the moft confiderable in this place. In this convent is a fmall chapel, the whole lining of . which, both fides and ceiltng, is compofed of human {culls and thigh bones: the thigh bones are laid acrofs
I each
26 Cook’s FrrstT VOYAGE
each other, and a {cull is placed in each of the four angles. When we vifited the good fathers, juft be- fore fupper-time, they received us with great civility. ** ‘We will not afk you,” faid thev, “ to fupper with us, becaufe we are not prepared; but if you will come to-morrow, though it is a faft-day, we will have a turkey roafted for you.” This polite invitation it was not in our power to accept. There are many high hills in this rland; Pico Ruivo in particular is near 5200 feet high. To a certain height thefe hills are covered with vines, above which are numbers of chefnuts and pine trees ; and above thefe again whole forefts of various forts of trees. The Mirmulano and Paobranco which are found among them, areunknown in Europe. ‘The latter of thefe 1s very beautiful, and we'aid be a great ornament to our gardens. The number of inhabitants in Madeira are cc:nputed to amount to about eighty thoufand ; and the cuftom- houfe duties produce to. the king of Portugal a re- venue of 20,0001. a year, clear of all expences. But the balance of trade is againft the people ; for all their money going to Lifbon, the currency of the ifland is in Spanifh. This coin confifteth of piitereens, worth about a fhilling ; bitts about fixpence, and half’ bitts worth about three-pence. | On the 19th of September the Endeavour failed from Madeira, and cn the 21ft we faw the iflands called the Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The bac of thefe was about five leagues to the fouth alf weft. On the 23d the Peak of ‘ieneriffe bore weft by fouth half fouth. Its appearance at fun fet was very ftriking; for when moft part of the ifland appeared of a deep black, the mountain ftill reflected rays, and glowed with a warmth of colour which no painting can exprefs. There is no eruption of vifible fire, but a heat iffues from the chinks near the top, too ttrong to be borne by the hand when held. near them. The height of this mountain is 15,396 feet, which is but one hundred and forty-eight yards lefs
than three miles. re n
Rounp THE WoRLD. 17
On the 30th we faw Bona Vifta, one of the Cape: de Verd iflands, in latitude 16 deg. north, and Jongi- tude 21.deg. 51 min. welt. In our courfe to Tene- riffe, we obferved numbers of fiying fifh, which ap- peared very beautiful, their fides refembling bur- nifhed filver. , :
On the. 7th of Oétober Mr. Banks went out in a boat, and caught what our failors call a Portuguefe man of war; together with feveral fhell fithes, or tef>. taceous animals, whichare always found floating upon the water; andon the 2 5th this gentleman fhot a blacks. toed gull, not defcribed by Linnzus, and whofe dun is of aredcolour. Wehad now variable winds, wit fome fhowers of rain, and the air was fo damp as to damage: our utenfils confiderably.
On the 25th we croffed the line with the ufual cere- ‘ mon.es ; and on the 28th when the fhip was in the la- titude of Ferdinand Noronha, longitude 32.deg. § min, weft, we began to look out for the ifland, and for the fhoals which are laid down as lying between it and the main ; but neither the ifland nor fhoals could. be difeovered, On the 29th we perceived that lus.
‘minous appearance of the fea mentioned by naviga-
tors, which: emitted rays like thofe of lightning. As Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were not thoroughly fatisfied with.any of the caufes hitherto afligned for this. phenomenon, and fuppofing it was occafioned by fome luminous animals, they threw out a cafling net, in order to try by experiment whether they were right in their conjectures. <A ipecies of the Medufa was taken, which bore fome refemblance to metalline fubftance, greatly heated, and emitted a.
.whitith light; they caught alfo fome crabs which
glittered very, much; animals which had not. before been taken notice of by the curious refearchers into the fecrets of MMU. Bs ok say ip
. As provifions by this. time began to grow fhort, we refolyed. to, put. ‘into the Re of io de Janeiro ; and, on, the .8th of; Noyember we, faw.the coait of RY Ge By) ges oe Bratil,
= - —
, , 7 > Foot (i kM Ea as ER atti of obit: inne irc an oo eS 5, ough iii ade Rae M teins. F-seaioe Soe, Sk
18: - Coox’s First Vorace
Brafil, Upon fpeaking with the crew of a Porta- guefe fining boat, we were informed by them, that the Jand which we faw was to the fouth of Santo Efpirite. Mr. Banks, having bought of thefe people fome fith, was furprized, that they required Englifh fhillings : he gave them two which he happened to have about him ; for he imagined Spanith filver to have been the only currency, and it was not without fome difputs that they took the reft of the money in piftereens. The frefh fifh, which was bought for about nineteen fhillings, ferved the whole fhip’s company. We ftood off and on along fhore till the 12th, having in view fucceffively Cape Thomas, and an ifland juft without Cape Frio, and then made fail for Rio de Janciro on the 13th in the-morning. Capt. Cook fent his firft lieutenant in the pinnace before te the «ity, to
inform the governor, that we had put iniio ...a¢ port
in order to procure refrefhments, and a pilot to bring us into proper anchoring ground. The pimnace re- turned, but the lieutenant had been detained by the viceroy, till the captain fhould come on fhore. When the {hip had coine to an anchor, a ten-oared boat filled with foldiers approached, and rowed round her, but noconverfation took place. Afterwards another boat
‘appeared, which had feverai of the viceroy’s officers
on board. Thev enqnired from whence the Endea- vour came? what was hcr cargo? what number of men and guns fhe carried? and to what port fhe ° bound? which queftions having been punctually 2.::! truly anfwered, the Portuguefe officers apologized for having detained the lieutenant, and pleaded the cuf- tom of the ptace in excufe for their behaviour.
_ On the 14th Captain Cook went on fhore, and ob- tained leave to furnifh the fhip with provifions ; but this permiffion was clogged with the conditions of em-
loying an inhabitant ‘4s a factor, and of fendi:¢ a ft tdier in the Endeavour’s boat'every time fhe «rue from fhore to the'veffel.. To thefe uncivil terms the Captain made many objections ; but the viceroy was aa ~ determined
Cf 8 OD ee ee oe ae cs a * ij
Rounp tHE Wortub. ig
ustermined to infift on them, neither would he permit Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to remain on fhore, nor fuffer the former to go up the country to collect plants. Captain Cook conceiving from thefe and other marks of jealoufy, that the viceroy thought they were come to trade, ufcd all his endeavours to convince him of the contrary ; and acquainted him, that they were bound to the South Seas, to obferve the tranfit of Venus over the dif of the fun, an object of great confe- quence, to the improvement of navigation; but the viceroy by his.an{wer feemed to be entirely ignorant — of this phenomenon. Aa officer was now appointed to attend the captain, which order he was defired to underftand.as an intended compliment: however, when he would have declined fuch a ceremony, the viceroy very politely forced it upon him.
Dr, Solander and Mr. Banks were not a little cha- grined on hearing that they would not be permitted te refide on fhore, and ftill more fo when they underftood, that they were not even allowed to quit the thip, for the viceroy had ordered, that the captain only, with fuch failors as were required by their daty, fhould come on fhore. Whether this arofe from his jealoufy in regard to trade, or fron: the apprehenfions he enr tertained of the extraordinary abilities of the two gen- tlemen in fearch of new difcoveries, it is certain that they were highly difagreeable to Mr. Banke and, the Doctor, who were refolved, if poffible, to evade the order. With this view they attempted to go on fhore, but were ftepped by the guard-boat; yet fe» veral of the crew, without the knowledge of the céne tinel, let themfelves down by 4-rope.from the cabin window into the beat about midnight, and drove away with the tide, .¢ill they were out. of. caring, They afterwards landed on an unfrequented, part of the country, and-were treated by the, inhabitants with great civility, 24, ; Rc spaid BCT) Pa) +)
‘ Capt:, Cook, uneafy under thé reftrittions of, viceroy, remonftrated weynemis but the latter wou @
\
ev
retura
20 Coox’s FIRST VOYAGE
return no other anfwer, than that the king his mafter’s ‘orders muft be vei he The captain, thus féepalfed, and much difpleafed, refolved to go no’ mote on fhore; rather than, whenever he did fo; to bé treated as a prifoner in his own boat; for the officer who was fo polite as to accompany him, conftantly attended him, both to and from the fhore. Two memorials ‘were now drawn up and prefented to the viceroy, one written by the captain, and the other by Mr. Barks; but the anfwers returned were by‘ no means fatisfactory. Several papers paffed between them and . the viceroy to no good purpofe, the prohibition ftill reyaining as before; from whence the captain thought it. fary in order to vindicate his own compliance, to‘urge the viceroy to an act of force in the execu- tion of his orders, For this purpofe he fent lieute- nant Hicks with a packet, giving him his order-not to admit of a guard in his boat. As this gentleman was refolved to obey his captain’s commands, the officer of the guard boat did not oppofe him by force, Hut acquainted the viceroy with what had happened, n which the lieutenant was fent away with thepackct wnopened. When returned, ‘he found:a guardof fol- diers -placed‘in the boat, and infiited on their quitting it. ‘Whereupon the officer feized the boat’s crew, and conducted-them under ‘an ‘efcort to prifon, ahd the tieutenant was fent back to the thip Lnvaeaae When the captain was:informed of this traniaction, he wrote to the viceroy'to demand his boat and het’ crew, inclof- ing the memorial which’ Mr. Hicks his lieutenant had brought back. Thefe papers ‘he fent by a petty officer, to avoid hpi DEBT ig. the euard, which miuft ‘have’ en! kept up by a commilfioned officer.” Ait’ anfwer was How promifed by the viceroy ; but before'this could ‘afrive; the long boat, which had Four! piped of tum On! beard, was driven to, windward; the rope breaking that was thrown from ttie thip,) gether with 'a frill fkiff:that-was faftened to the pat,” 'Itimediate orders were given for manning the wr gos ¢-./ ‘ yawl,
fter*g ilfed, €- on cated > was nded orials eroys Mr. neans
Yand .
n ftill ughe ance, Kecu- eute- r-not eman , the force, ened, acket if fol- tting and d the V hen
rote clof- t had HICer, lard, 1oned Proy 3 had ward, thip,)
io the
g the yawl,
Rounp FHE WortpbD. tr
yawl, which being difpatched accordingly with pro- per directions, returned, and brought the people on board the next morning; from whom: Capt. Cook learned, that the long-boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a grapling, and quitted her, and falling in with a reef of rocks on ther return, they were forced to cut the faftening of:Mr. Banks’s little boat, and fend her. adrift. The captain now difpatched another letter to his excellency, wherein he informed him of the accident, defired he would affift him with a boat to recover his own, and, at the fame ‘time, renewed his demand of the delivery of the pinnace and her crew.. The.viceroy granted the requeft, but in his anfwer to the captain’s remon- ftrance, fuggefted fome doubts that he entertained; whether the Endeavour was really a king's fhip, and alfo accufed the crew of {muggling. Capt. Cook, in his reply, faid,. that he was willing to fhew his com¢ miflion, adding, if any attempt fhould be made to carry on a contraband trade, he requefted his ‘excel~ lency would order the offender to be taken into cuftody. The difpute being thus terminated, Mr. Banks attempted to elude the vigilance of the puard, which he found means to do,.and got fafe on fhore on the 26th:in the morning. |»He took care to avoid. the town, and paffed the day im:the fields, where he could beft gratify his curiofity: .Mr. Banks found: the country people inclined to treat him with civility, and was invited to their habitations. ; But it' was af<
| terwards heard, that fearch: had been making: for this
rentleman when abfent. He:and: Dr. Solander there-. re refolved' to run ‘no mére rifques in: going°oni fhore, ‘while’ they: remained at this place... 9) ‘On the rft of December, having taken in water: and provifions, we got, with leave from the viceroy, 2 pilot:on board ; but the wind:prevented us from:put« ting to fea; A Spanith packet from’: Buenos Ayres, : bound for Spain, arriving the next day, theicaptaim of her with great politenefs offered to take our letters tay , ei Europe.
a2 Coox’s FIRST VOYAGE
Europe. The favour was accepted, and Captain Cool,
delivered into his hands a packet for the feccretary cf
the Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers that had paffed between him and the viceroy, Jeaving the duplicates with his excellency. On the sth we weighed anchor, and towed down the bay, but were ftopped at Santa Cruz, the principal fortification, the order from the viceroy, to let us pafs, by an unaccountable neghi- gence, not having been fent; fo that it was not till the 7th that we got under fail. When we had paffed the fort the guard-boat left us, and our ‘pilot was dif- charged. ‘It was obferved, during our ftay in this harbour, that the air ‘was filled with butterflies, chiefly of one kind, aad the greateft part above our thaft-head. Of: the town and neighbouring country we fhall give the following defcription. Rio de Janeiro was probably fo called becaufe diico- vered on the feftival of St. Januarius, from whence we 7 fuppofe the river Januarius took its name, and alfo.the town, which is the capital of the Portu- geet. in America. This town is fituated on the weft de. of the river, from which it 1s extended about three quarters of a mile. The ground whereon it ftands is ai level plain. It is defended cu the north fide by a hill, that extends: from the river, having 2 fmiall plain, which contains the fuburbs and king’s dock.’ ‘On the fouth is another hill running towards the inountais which are behind the town. This is neither ill defigned nor ill built ; the howfes in general are of :ftone, and two ftories high; every honfe having;: after the manner of the Portuguefe, 2 {mall balcony before. its windows, and a lattice of wood before the balcony ; its circuit is about three miles; dnd it appears to be equal in fizé to the largeft country towns.in England. The ftreets are peanghts and. of 2 copwenient breadth, interfecting each at right angles; the greater part, ‘however, lic in a line with the:citadei, called St. Sebaftian, which ftands on the top of'a hilt that commands the town, The er ere ge rect,
‘ 1
Bey Oe tem bet, FL otet, pee et, bed et 2 of PD
Rounpn THE WoRLDs 23
ftreet is near 100 feet in width, and extends from St. Benedict to the foot of: Caftle-hill. The other ftreets are commonly twenty or thirty feet wide. The houfes adjoining to the principal ftreet are three ftories high, but in other places they are very irregular, though built after the fame manner as at Lifbon. Wa- ter is conveyed to a fountain in the great fquare, from an aqueduct, raifed upon two ftories of arches. The water at this fountain, however, is fo bad, that we could not drink it with pleafure. The churches are richly ornamented, and there is more religious parade in this place than in any of the popifh countries in Europe. Not a day pafies without a proceffion of fome parifh, with various infignia, fplendid and coftly in the higheft degree. But the inhabitants may pay their devotions at the fhrine of any faint, without waiting fora proceffion; for a fall cupboard, having a glafs window, and in which is one of thefe tutelary gods, is placed before almoft every houfe, and a lamp is kept conflantly burning, left the old proverb - fhould be verified, “« Out of fight, out of mind.” Before thefe faints the people pray and fing with fuch vehemence, that in the night they were diftincly heard by our failors on board the fhip.
‘In this town are four convents, the firft is that of _ the Benedictines, fituated near its northern extremity ; the ftructure affords an agreeable profpect, and con- tains an elegant chapel, ornamented with feveral va- luable paintings. The fecond: is that of the Carme- lites, which forms the centre angle of the royal fquare, and fronts the harbour; its church ‘was re- building in a very elegant manner, with fine free ftone brought thither from-Lifbon. The third is that of St. Anthony, fituated on the top of a hill, on the fouth fide of the town; before this convent ftands a large bafon of brown granite, in the form of a pa- vailelogram, which is employed in wathing. The fourth is fituated at the eabern extremity of the . - fOWDs,
23. Cogok’s First: VOYAGE
town, and was formerly the jefuit’s convent, ‘but is now converted into a military hofpital. 54 LR In. the right angle of the royal fquare ftands the viccroy’s palace; this with the mint, {tables, gaol, &c. compofe one large building, which has two ftories,. and.is 90 feet from the water. In pafling through the palace, the firft entrance is to a large hall or ard-room, to which there is an afcent of three or our fteps. In the guard-room are ftationed the vice- roy’s body-guards, who are relieved’ every mornin between: eight and nine; and adjoining to the hail, are the ftables, the prifon being in the back part of the building. Within the guard-room is a flight of ftairs for afcending to the upper flory, which divides 2t a landing-place about half way, and forms two branches, one leading to the right, and the other to the left. The former leads to a faloon,. where there are two officers in conftant attendance ; the viceroy’s. aid-de-camp. at ‘the fame time waiting in the anti- chamber to receive meflages:and deliver orders, __ The. left wing of thé royal {quare is an irregular building, which confilts chiefly of fhops occupied by trading people. In the centre of this {quare is the fountain, of which we have made mention, as being fupplicd: with water from a {pring at the diftance of three miles, from.which it is brought by an aqueduct. The place is continually crowded with negroes of both fexes waiting to fill their jars. At the corner o every ftreet is an altar. The market place extends from, the nerth-eaft.end of the fquare along the fhore, and this fituation is very convenient for the fifhing boats, and .thofe who bring vegetables from the other: fide of the'river to market. Negroes are almoft the oily:peaple who fell the . different commodities,.exs,
pofed in the market, and,they employ their leifure
time.in {pinning cotton, :-, y Pitec! ‘The form of government.is.in its conftitution mixed, but in faci very defpotic; the viceroy-and,civil magif= ' trate pf. the town frequently committing perfons to
priion,
gdw roa ss 8 PB em) Be
Rous tur Woktrd, 2g piifon, or tranfporting them to Lifbon, at their own pléafure. In order to prevent the people from makin excurfions into the country, in fearch after gold and diamonds, certain bounds are prefcribed them, fometimes at 4 few, ard fometimes at many miles diftance from the town; and if a man is taken up by the guard without the bounds, where they conftantly patrole, he is immediately fent to prifon.
The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro are exceeding humerous, aad confift of Portuguefe, Negroes, and Indians, which laft were the original natives of the country. The townfhip of Rio is but a {mall part of the Capitanea, or province; yet it is faid to contain 37,000 white people, and 629,000 blacks, many of whom are free, making together 666,000, in the proportion of 17 tor a
The military is compofed of twelve regiments of regular troops, fix being Portuguefe, and fix Creoles, and twelve regiments of provincial militia, The in- habitants are fervilely {ubmiffive to the regulars, and it has been faid, that if any of them fhould omit the compliment of taking off his hat, when he meets an officer, he would be immediately Ixnocked down. But the fubordination of the officers to the viceroy. is equally mortifying, for they are obliged to wait three times every day to know, or receive his commands : the anfwer frequently is, ‘ there is nothing new.”
In Rio de Janeiro the gentry keep their chaifts, which are drawn by mules; the ladies however ufes fedan chair, boarded before and behind, with cure tains on each fide, which is carried by two negroes _on a pole connected with the top of the chair, by two rods, coming from under its bottom, one on each fide, and refting to the top. The apothecaries fhops commonly ferve the parpofes of coffee-houfes, as the people: meet in them to.drink capillaire, and play at back-gammon; When the. gentry are feen abroad, they are well dreffed, though at home but loofely coe vered. The fhop-keepers have generally fhort hair,
Not. : D and
eS a
et cl
mee Pr annem ~ ; —- ei = -
bak a ic alle eta ‘ Neel = sme ee ees
eR
1h laa im ae sacred * hos a — SS a aSaane ‘
Ninn ll Deas teinaiaiacs esas tna t
q i { |
ad ETE nies a a eee Ne ome aenpmnenensentiniiaatebeonee-supnanasancah : " . Pa
aliens Ale ah AL AAR AP TOO ‘
“
a nn Sg
a6 Cook’s first Vorace
and wear linen jackets with fleeves. The women im eneral, as in moft of the Portuguefe and Spanifh RP iclemients in South America, are more ready to grant amorous favours than thofe of any other civi- lized parts. of the world. As foon as the evening began, females appeared at the windows on every fide, who diftinguifhed fuch of the men as beft pleafed their fancies by throwing down nofegays; and Dr. Solander and two other gentlemen received fo many of thefe love-tokens, that they threw them away by hat-fulls. | Without the Jefuits college on the fhore, is a village called Neuftra:Seignora del Gloria, which is joined to the town by a very few intervening houfes. Three or
four hundred yards, within the Jefuit’s-college, ftandg _
a very high caftle, but it is falling to decay. The bi- thop’s palace is about three hundred yards behind the Benedictine convent, and contiguous to it is a ma- gazine of arms, furrounded by a rampart. ©
- The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro maintain a whalee..
fifhery, which fupplies them with lamp oil. They
ae brandy from the Azores, and their flaves and Ea
India goods from their fettlements in Africa, their wine Bein Madeira, and their European. goods from Lifbon. The current coin is Portuguefe, which is ftruck here; the filver pieces are called petacks, of ‘different value; and the copper: are five and ten ree pieces. This place is very ufeful for fhips that are in
‘want: of refrefhment.- They water, as we have be-
fore obferved, at the fountain in the greai fquare, but ‘the water is not good. We landed our cafks
. on a fmooth*fandy beach, which is not more than
a hundred yards diftant from the fountain, and upon application: to the viceroy a centinel is ap- pointed to look #ter them. The harbour is fafe'and éommodious, and diftinguifhed by a remarkable hill, in the fhape of a cone, at-the welt point of the:bay, The entrance’is not wide, but it is eafy, from the fea breeze which prevails from noon to fun-fet, for
ba] DOS
Rounpd THE WORLD. 27
any fhip to enter before the wind. The entrance of the narrow part is defended by two forts, La Cruz; and Lozia; they are.about three quarters of a mile from each other. The bottom being rocky, renders it dangerous to anchor there, but to avoid it thips muft keep in the mid-channel. The coaft abounds with a variety of fifh, among which are dolphins.and mackarel. Provifions, except wheaten bread and flour, are eafily procured. Yams and caflada are in plenty. Beef both frefh and jerked may be bought at two-pence farthing a pound, ‘but it is very lean. The people jerk their beef, by taking out the bones, and cutting it into large but thin flices. They then cure it with falt, and dry it in the fhade. It eats-very well, and, if kept dry, will remain good:a long time at fea, Mutton is fcarcely to be procured. Hogs ‘and poultry are dear. Garden ftuff and fruit are in abundance, but the pumkin only can be preferved at fea. Tobacco alfo is cheap, though not good. Rum, fugar, and molaffes are all excellent, and to be had at reafonable prices.
The climate of Rio de Janeiro is healthy, and free from moft of thofe inconveniencies incident to tropical countries. ‘The air is feldom immoderately hot, as the fea breeze is generally fucceeded by a land wind. The feafons are divided into dry and rainy, though their commencement of late: hasbeen irregular and uncertain, for the latter had failed for near four years preceding our arrivals. but at this time the rain had juft began;.and fell in heavy fhowers during our ‘ftay: formerly the ftreets“have, been overflowed by the rain, and rendered. impaffable with canoes.
The adjacent country is mountainous, and chiefly covered with wood, a {méll part of it ogly being cul- tivated. Near the town the foil is loofé and fandy, but farther from the river it is a fine black mould. I¢: produces all the tropical fruits in great plenty, and without much cultivation, a circumftancé exceeding agrecable to the inhabitants, who are very indolent,
ee . - 2 ~ ‘The
28 Coorn'’s vinstT Vorace
The mines, which lie far up in the country, are very sich. Their fituation is carefully concealed, and no one can view them, except thofe concerned in working and guarding them. About twelve months before our arrival, the government had detected feveral jewellers jn carrying on an illicit trade for diamonds, with flaves in mines; and immediately afterwards a Jaw pafied, making it felony to work at the trade, or to have any tools fit for it in poffeflion, the civil of- ficers having indifcriminately feized on all that could be found. Near 40,000 negroes are annually ime ed to dig in the mines, fo pernicious to the uman frame are thofe works. In 1776, 20,000 more were draughted from the towa to {ppply the deficiency of the former number, . :
very i na king e our ellers with rds a de, oF il of- could ly ime: 1o the 20,000
ily the
Rovunpd THE WORLD.
C HA P. I.
The departure of the Endeavour from Rio de Fanciro— Her paffage to the entrance of the Streight of Le Maire— The inbabitents of Terva del Fuego defcribed—-Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander afcend a mountain in fearch of plants— An account of what happened to them in this excurfion— The Endeavour poles through the sprigs Le Maire— An account of ber paffage, and a furiber defcription of the inbabitants of Terra del Fuego, and tts produétions— Remarks re/peé?ing the fouth ea pot of Terra del Fuego, and the Streight of Le Maire-—-Direéions for the paffage weftward round this part of America, into the South Seas-—T he palace of the Endeavour from Cape Horn te the newly difcovered iflands—An account of their figure and appearance—Tbe inhabitants defcribed ; with a nar- rative of the various incidents during the courfe, and on the F- eavour's arrival among them.
N the 8th of December, 1768, having procured all necefflary fupplies, we took our departure
from Rio de Janeiro; and‘on the 9th an amazin number of atoms were taken out of the fea. Thete were of a yellowifh colour, and few of shem were more than the sth part of an inch long; nor could the beft:microfcope on board the Endeavour difcover whether they belonged to the vegetable or animal freation. The fea was tinged in fuch a manner with thefe equivocal fubftances, as to exhibit broad ftreaks of a fimilar colwur, for near the fpace of a mile in length, and for feveral hundred yards in breadth, Whence they came, or for what defigned, neither Mr. Banks. nor Dr. Solander could determine. Per- haps they might be the fpawn of fome marine ani- mal, unknown to either antient or modern philo-
fophers. — ae
On the 11th we hooked a fhark. It proved to be a female, When opened we took fix young ones out af ati 4 | My
‘oe
30 Coox’s First VOYAGE
it, five of which were alive, and fwam brifkly in a tub of water, but the fixth appeared to have been dead fome time. From this time we met with no material occurrence ti!! the 22d,-when we difcovered numerous birds of the profillaria kind, in latitude 39 deg. 37 min. fouth, and longitude 49 deg. 16 min. weft; we alfo difcovered great numbers of porpoifes of a fingular {pecies, of about 15 feet in length, and of an afh co- lour. On the 23d ‘we obferved an eclipfe of the goon; aud ‘about feven o’clock in the morning, a {mall white cloud appearéd in the weft, from which 2 train of fire iffued, extending itfelf wefterly : about two minutes after, we heard two diftinct loud explo- fions, immediately fucceeding each other, like thofe of cannon, after which. the cloud difappeared. On the 24th we caught a large loggerhead torioife, weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. We like- wile fhot feveral birds, one an albetrofs, which mea- fured between the-tips of its wings nine feet and an inch, and from its beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half... On the 3oth:we ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vaft numbers of Jand infects; fome in the air, and others upon the water; they appeared to refemble exactly the flies that are feen in England, though they were thirty leagues from land, and fome of thefe infects are known not to quit it beyond three yards. At this time we judged ourfelves to be nearly oppofite to the bay called Sans Fond (without bottom) where: it is fuppofed ‘by fome writers, that the conti- nent of America:is livided by a paflage; but it was the opinion of our circumnavigators, that there might be a large river; which probably had occaftoned an inundation. On the.314t we had: much thunder, dightning and rain. This day and the three following, we faw feveral whales; likewife a number of bir ‘about the fize of a pigeon, with white bellies and ey beaks. op
« On'the 3d of? january, 1769, we faw the appear- ance of land, in latitude 47 deg. 17 min. fouth, and Bian. longitude
Rounpd THE WoRLDs .. 3U”
longitude 61 deg. 29 min. 45 fec. weft, which we miftook for Pepy’s ifland. In appearance it fo much refembled land, that we bore away for it; and it was near two hours and an half before we were convinced, that it was‘one of thofe deceptions which failors call . a Fog-bank. At this time our feamen beginning to complain of cold, they were furnifhed with a pair of trowfers, and a Magellanic jacket, made of a thick woollen ftuff called Fearnought. .On the 11th, after having paffed Falkland’s Ifland, we faw the coaft of © Terra del Fuego, at the diftance of about four leagues from the weft to fouth-eaft by fouth. As we ranged along the fhore to the fouth-eatt, fmoke was perceived, made, probably, by the natives as a fignal, for it was not to be feen after we had pafled by. On the 14th we entered the Streight of Le Maire, but were afterwards driven out again with fuch vio- lence (the tide being againft us) that the fhip’s bow- {prit was frequently under water. At length, how- ever, we got anchorage in a fmall cove, on the eaft of Cape St. Vincent, the entrance to which our cap- tain named St. Vincent’s Bay. The weeds which _ grow here upon rocky ground arc very remarkable ; they appear above the furface in eight and nine fathoms water... The leaves are four feet in length 5 and many of the ftalks, though not more than an inch _ and a half in circumference, above one hundred. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks went on fhore, where; having continued four hours, they returned about nine in the evening, with upwards of an hundred different plants and flowers, of which none of the European botanifts had taken any notice near this bay.. The country in general was flat, and the bottom, in par- ticular, was a grafly plain. Here was plenty of wood, water, and fowl, and winter bark was found in great plenty. The trees appezred to be a fpecies of the birch, but neither large nor lofty. The wood was’ white, and they bore a‘fmall lez’. White and red eranberries were found in thefe parts, “ae On
ry Coon‘s rtrst Vorace
‘ Oni the 18th we came to an anchor in twelve fathortt water, upon coral rocks, before a {mall cove, at the diftance of about a mile from the fhore. At this time two of the natives came down upon the beach, as if they expected tha‘ the ftrangers would land; but as there was no fhelter here, the fhip was got under fail again, and the Indians retired difappointed.. The fame afternoon about two o’clock, we came into the bay of Good Succefs, and the veffel coming to an anchor, the captain went on fhore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in order to fearch for a watering place, and difcourfe with the Indians. Thefe gentlemen had not proceeded above one hun- éred yards before the captain, when two of the In- dians that had feated themfelves rofe up, and threw away the fmall fticks which they held in their hands, as a token of amity. They afterwards returned to their companions, who had remained at fome diftance , behind them. and made figns to their guefts to ad-
ance, whom they received in a friendly, though un-
couth ‘manner. In return for their civility, fome ribbands and beads were diftributed among them. Thus a fort of mutual confidence was eftablithed, and the reft of the Englith joined the party, the Indians .. converfing with them in their way, in anamicable man- ner. Capt. Cook and his friends took three of them to the fhip, dretied them in jackets, and gave them. bread and other provifions, part of which they carried on fhore with them; but they refufed to drink ram or brandy, making figns that it burned their throats, as their proper drink was water. One of thefe people made feveral long and Joud {peeches, but no part of them was intelligible to any of us. Another ftole the covering of a globe, which he concealed under his garment that was made of fkin. After having re- Mined on board about two hours, they returned.on . “fhore, MrvBanks accompanying them. He condufted taem totheir Rémpanions; ile feemed no way curious
to know what their friends had feen, and the Jatter were
Round tHe WoxrtD: 53
were as little difpofed to relate, 43.the former wet'e to enquire. None of thefe people exceeded five feet ten inches in height, but their bodies appeared large and robuft, though their limbs were fmall. They had broad flat faces, high cheeks, nofes inclining to flatnefs, wide noftrils, {mall black eyes, large mouths, fmall, but in- different teeth, and ftraight black hair, falling down over their ears and foreheads, the latter being generally {mearéd with brown and red paints, and like all the original natives of America, they were beardlefs. Their ents were the fisins of feals and guanicoes, which they wrapped round their fhoulders. ‘The men like- wife wore on their heads a bunch of yarn, which fell over their foreheads, and was tied behind with the finews or tendons of fome animals. Many of both fexes were painted on differeht parts of their bodies with red, white, and brown colours, and had alfo threé ‘or four perpendicular lines pricked acrofs their cheeks and nofes, The women had a fmall ftring tied round each ancle, and each wore a flap of fkin faftened round the middle. They carried their children upon their backs, and were generally employed in domeftic labour and drudgery. : Mr. Banks and Dr. § ander, attended by their fer- vants, fet out from the fhip on the 16th, with a defign of going into the country as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having entered a wood, they afcended a hill through a pathleis wilder- ‘nefs till the afternoon. After they had reached what ay took for a plain, they were greatly difappointed to find it a fwamp, covered with birch, the bufhes in- terwoven atid fo inflexible that they could not be di vided: however, as they were not above ‘lree feet high, they ftepped over them, but were up to the an- cles in boggy ground. The morning had been very fine, but now the weather became cold and difapree- able ; the blafts of wind were very piercing, and the fnow fell thick; neverthelefs they putfued their route in hope of finding a betterroad. Before they had got No. 1. E over
34. Covx’s FIRsT VOYAGE
over this fwamp, an accident happened that greatl difconcerted them: Mr. Buchan, one of the draughti- men whom Mr. Banks had taken with him, fell intoa fit. It was abfolutely neceflary to ftop and kindle a fire, and fuch.as were moft fatigued remained to affift him; but Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monk- houfe proceeded, and, attained the {pot they had in view, where they found a great variety of plants that gratified their curiofity and, repaid their toil, On re- turning to the company ‘amidit the fnow which now fell in great abundance, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered.. They had previoufly fent Mr. Monkhoufe - and Mr. Green back to him and thofe that remained ‘with him, in order to bring them to a hill which was conjectured to lie in a better track for returning to “the wood, and which was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They refolved from this hill to pus through thefwamp, which this way did not appear to be more than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they propofed building a hut, and kindling a fire, to defend themfelves from the feverity of the weather. Accordingly, the whole party met at the place appointed, about eight in the even- ing, whilft it was itill day-light, and proceeded to-
wards the next valley. wey Dr, Solander having often paffed over mountains in cold countries, was fenfible, that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occafions a drowfineis that is not eafily refifted ; he therefore intreated his friends to keep in motion, however difagreeable it might be to them. His words were—Whoever fits down will fleep, and whoever fleeps will wake no more. — Every one feemed accordingly armed with refolution ; but, ona fudden, the cold became fo very intenfe as to threaten _ the moft dreadful effects. It was now very remarkable, that the Doctor himfelf, who had fo forcibly admo- nifhed and alarmed his party, was the firft that infifted to be fuffered to repofe. In {pite of the moft earneft intreaties of his friends, he iay down amidft the fnow,
4 and
fo
“Rounpd tHe WortpD. 33
at! and it was with difficulty that they kept him awake. ti- One of the black fervants alfo became weak and faint, toa and was on the point of following this bad example.: lea . | Mr. Buchan was therefore detached with a party to aflift make a fire at the firft commodious {pot they could: onk- am find. Mr. Banks and four more remained with the
iin §& Doctor and Richmond the black, who with the utmoft that difficulty were perfuaded to come on; and when'they: n re- had traverfed the oe part of the fwamp, they ex-
® preffed their inability of going any farther. When
itl the black was told that if he remained there he would.
ouste foon be frozen to death, his reply was, That he was fo
lined much exhaufted with fatigue, that death would be a
. wae relief to him. ‘ Doctor Solander faid, he was not un+
gz to willing to go, but that he muft firft take fome fleep, d ge ftill perfifting in acting contrary to the opinion which’
all to he himfelf had delivered to the company. Thus re-' ppear folved, they both fat down, fupported by fome buthes; siete and in a fhort time fell afleep. Intelligence now came’ hut, from the advanced party, that-a fire was kindled about’ the a quarter of 2 mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks’ party then awakened the Doctor, whohad already almoft loft cai. the ufe of his limbs, ‘though it was but a few minutes’ 4 to- fince he fat down; neverthelefs, he confented to go: on, butevery meafure taken torelieve the black proved ineffectual, He remained mctionlefs, and they were’ obliged to leave him to the care of a failor, and the other black fervant, who appeared to be the leaft hurt by the'cold, and they were to be relieved as foon as two others were fufficiently warmed, to fill their places, The Doctor, with much difficulty, was got to the fire;' and as to thofe who were fent torélieve the companions: of Richmond, they returned without having been able’ to find them, What rendered the mortification ftill’ ble greater was, that a bottle of rum (the whole ftceck of ah the party) could not be found, and was judged'to have fifted m been left with one of the three that were mifling. A fall of {now continuing for near two hours, ‘there ' now remained no hopes of i E
ntains when s not s to be to tleep, one ona eaten
rneft ow,
and
2 fons
eeing the three abfent per- -
“—
36 Coox’s First Vovace
fons again. At twelve o’clock, however, a great fhout- _ ing was heard at a diftance, which gave inexpreflible atisfaction to every one prefent. Mr. Banks and four others went forward and met the failor, who had juft ftrength enough left towalk. Hewas immediately fent to the fire, and they proceeded to feek for the other two. They found Richmond upon his legs, but in- capable of moving them; the other black was lying
fenfelefs upon the ground, All endeavours to bring
them to the fire were fruitlefs; nor was it poflible to kindle one upon the fpot, an account of the fnow that had fallen, and was falling; fo that there remained no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, after they had made them a bed of the boughs of fome trees, and covered them over thick withthefame. As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move thefe poor blacks to the fire, and had heen expofed to the cold for near an hour andan half in the attempt, fome of them began te be afflicted in the fame manner as thofe whom they were torelieve. Brifcoe, another fervant of Mr. Banks, in particular, began to lofe his fenfibility, At laft the reached the fire, and pafled the night in a very dif- agreeable manner. :
_ The party. that fet out from the fhip had confifted of twelve; twoof thefe were already judged to be dead, it was doubtful vhether the third would be able to re- turn on board, and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, feemed to he threatened with a retuyn of his fits. The fhip they reckoned to be at the diftance of a long day's journey, through an wnfrequented wood, in which they might | pa be bewildered till night, and having been
quipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had . nota fufliciency of provifions left to afford the com- pany a fingle meal, -
Atday-break on the 17th, nothing prefented itfelf to the view all around but fnow, which covered alike the trees and the ground ; and the blafts of wind were {fo frequent ‘and violcut, that their journey feemed “ he
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rendered impratticable, and they had regfon to dread perifhing with cold and famine, However, about fix in the mornings they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, bydifcovering thefun through
the clouds, which graduallydiminifhed. Before their fetting out, mefiengers were difpatched to the un- happy negroes; but thefe returned with the melan- . ch y news.of theirdeath. Though the fky had flat- " tered the hopes of the furvivors, the fnow continued falling very faft, a circumftance which impeded their.
po
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Pe iy
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- 38 sine “erast Vovrace
art or regularity. ( They were compofed of a few poles inclining teat bier” in the ‘fhape of 'a fugar-loaf, which were covered on the ‘weather fide with grafs and
boughs, and'on the other fide a fpace was left open, —
which ferved at once fora fire-place and a door.j They were of the fame nature of the huts that had ‘been feen: _ at St. Vingent’s Bay. ( A little grafs ferved for beds and chairsJand their utenfils were a bafket for the hand,’ a fatchel to hang ypon the back, ‘and a bladder for water, out of which they drank through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty . men, women, and children. Their bows and arrows were-conftructed with neatnefs and ingenuity, being | made of wood highly polifhed; and the point, which. was cither glafs or flint, very fkilfully fitted. Thefe' hatter fubftances were obferved among them -un-~ wrought, as alfo cloth, rings, buttons, &c. from’ whence it was concluded that they fometimes tra- velled to the northward, as no fhip, for years paft, . had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego. The natives here did not thew any furprife at the fight of - fire arms, but appeared to be well acquainted with. _ their ufe. “It is likely that the fpot on which the: Doétor and: Mr. Banks’ met ‘them, ‘was not a fixed. habitation, as their houfes did not feem as if they’ - were erected to ftand for any long time, and they d no boats or canoes among them. ‘They did not’ pear to have any, form of government, or any ideas
of fubordination. ( ‘They feemed to be the very out+? Mer a
cafts of men, and a people that paffed their lives in wandering in a forlorn’ ‘manner over dreary waftes ; ‘their dwelling’ being’ a‘thatchgd hovel, and their cloathing fearcely fufficient to keep them from pe-" rifhing with cold, even im thefe climates. Their + only food was thell-fith, ‘which on any’ one ipot muft foon be exhaufted'; nor had they the rudeft imple-_ ment of art,’ nog even fo much as was neceflary to \ drefs their fad ye amidft alt this, we are told, that’ denjoy that content, which is feldom-
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Rounp THE WORLD. . 39
found in great and populous. cities ; a fpecies of con- tent, which if they really enjoyed, it muft have arifen from ftupidity, a fatisfaction the offspring of the greateit ignnrance. Such is the ftate of uncultivated nature; fuch the rude form which uncivilized. man ts.on. The wants of thefe people feemed to -be ew but fome wants all mankind muft have, and even the moit fimple of them, thefe poor favages ap- peared fcarcely in a condition to gratify. The ca of. hunger and thirft muft be obeyed, or man muft perifh ; yet the people in queftion feemed to depend on chance for the means of anfwering them. -Thofe who can be happy in fuch a fituation, can only be fo, becaufe they have not a due feeling of baagily ia We know that there have been admirers.of fimple nature amongft the philofophers of all ages and na- tions ;. and certainly fimple nature has her beauties. In regard to the vegetative and brute creation, fhe operates with refiftlefs energy; her power is prevalent, as her pencil is inimitable; but when we.afcend in the fcale of beings, and come to examine the human race, what fhall we find them, without cultivation ? It is here that inftinct ends, and reafon begins; and without entering into the queftion, Whether a ftate of nature is a fate of war? when we obferve the in- numerable inconveniences to which thofe are fubject on whom the light of {cience never dawned, we may eafily determine in the favour of thofe arts which have civilized mankind, formed them into focieties, refined their manners, and taught the nations where they have prevailed, to protect thofe rights which the untutored favages have ever been obliged to ield to the fuperior abilities of their better inftructed invaders, and have thus fallen a prey to European tyranny. ys We obferved in this place feals, fea-lions, and dogs, and no other quadrupeds ; .neverthelefs it is probable there are other kinds of animals in the country ; for Mr. Banks remarked, from a hill, an impreffion 5 the oot-
40 Coox’s FIRST VOYAGE
foot-fteps of a large animal on the furface of a bogs but of what kind it was he could not determine. Not any Jand-birds were feen larger than an Englith black« bird, hawks and vultures excepted. Ducks and other water: fowls we fawin abundance; alfo fhell-fith, clams, and limpets: The country, though uncleared, had ‘nei- ther gnat, mufquito; norany other noxious or trouble- fome anithils. A great variety of plants were found by the Doctor and Mr. Banks. ‘The wild celery and {curvy-gra{s are fuppofed to contain antifcorbutic qua- ities, which will therefore be of fervice to the crews of fuch fhips as hereafter may touch at this place, after along voyage. The latter is found in abundance near fprings and in damp places, particularly at the water- ing place in the bay of Good Succefs, and it refembles the Englifh cuckow flower, or lady’s-fmock. The wild celery is like what grows in our gardens in Eng- land; but the leaves are of a deeper green. This plant may be found in plenty near the beach, and upon the land above the fpring tides, In tafte it is between that of celery and parfley. ‘The grateful feaman, long ceii- fined to falt provifions, enjoy this healing vegetable diet, as a fpecial blefling of an all gracious Provi- dence, particularly vifible in providing in different climates different food and nourifhmént, fuitable to his nature; wants and neceffities.
On Sunday, Jan. 22, having got in our wood and water, we failed out of the bay, and continued our courfe through the Streight; and in paffing this; not- withftanding the defcription which fome voyagers have given of Terra del Fuego, we did not find that it had, agreeable to their reprefentations, fuch a forbidding afpect. On the cag we found the fea coaits and the fides of the hills cloathed with verdure. Indeed the fummits of the hills were barren, but the valleys appeared rich, and a brook was generally found at the foot of almoft every hill; and though the water had a reddiih tinge, yet it was far from being ill tafted. Upon the whole it was the beft we took on board during our
| voyage.
8 to = poe
‘concur to occafion fuch different reprefentations of a
Rounp THE Wortp. 4t
Voyage. Nine miles weftward of cape St. Diego, the low: poiiit thatforms the north entrance of the Streight ot Le Maire, are three hills, called the Three Bro- thers;' and on Terra del Fuego is another hill, in the form of a fugar-loaf, which ftands on the weft fide not far from the fea. We had not that difficulty mentioned in the hiftory of Lord Anfon’s voyage, in finding where the ftreight of Le Maire lies. No fhip can well mits the fireight that keeps Terra del Fuego in fight, for it will then be eafily difcovered ; and Staten ifland which lies on the eaft fide will be ftill more plainly perceived, for there is no land on Terra del Fuego like it. And let it be further particularly obferved, that the entrance of the ftreight fhould be attempted only with a fair wind, when the weather too is moderate, and likewitle, upon the beginning of the tide of flood, which here falls out upon the full and change of the moon, about one or two o’clock; let it alfo be remembered, to keep as near the fhore of Terra del Fuego:as the winds will permit. : The ftreight of Le Maire is bounded on the weft by Terra del Fuego, and on the eaft by the weit end of. Staten ifland, and'is nearly five leagues in Jength, nor lefs in breadth. The bay of Good Succefs 13 feated about the middle of it, onthe fide of Terra dei Fuego, which prefents itfelf at the entrance of the ftreight from the northward; andthe fouth end of it:may be diftinguifhed by a land mark, refembling a road’ from the fea to the country. It affords good anchorage, and
plenty of wood and water. Staten land didnot ap-
pear to Captain Cook in the fame manner as it did to
‘ - Commodore Anfon, That horror and wildnefs, .men- ‘tioned by the Commodore, were not obferved by our
gentler 1; on the contrary, the land appeared to be neither deftitute of wood nor verdure, nor was it co- vered with fnow; and om the north fide we faw theap- pearances of bays and harbours. It is probable, that the feafon of the year and other circumftances might
No. Ze )
42 Coox’s rirst VOYAGE
Jand, which all our circumnavigators muft own to be
unfriendly and difagreeably fituated. On the weft fidé. of the cape of Good Succefs, whereby is formed the fouth weft entrance of the ftreight, we faw the mouth of Valentine’s bay ; from whence the land lies in a di- rection weft fouth-weft for more than twenty leagnes, appearing high and mountainons, with feveral iniets and bays. Fourteen leagues from the bay of Good Succefs, ‘fouth-weft half-weft, and nearly three leagues from the fhore, is New Ifland; terminating to the north-eaft in a remarkable hillock; and feven leagues from hence, fouth-weft, lies Evout’s ifle; a little tothe welt of the fouth of which are two {mall low. iflands, near to each other, called Barnevelt’s. Thefe are partly furrounded with rocks, which rife to different heights above the water, and are twenty-four leagues from the itreight of Le Maire. Three leagues fouth weft by fouth, from Barnevelt’s iflands, is the fouth-eaft peint of Hermit’s iflands, which lie fouth-eaft and north- weft.» They: appeared to us in different points of view, fometimes as one ifland, and at others.as part of.the main. From the fouth-eaft point of thefe ifiands to. Cape Horn, the courfe is fouth-weft by fouth, diftant three leagues. Hermit, who commanded the Dutch fquadron in 1624, certainly put into fome-of them, and Chapenham, vice admiral of this fquadron, firft difcovered that Cape Horn was formed by a clufter of iflands. Between the ftreight Le Maire and Cape Horn we found, when near: the fhore, the current fetting ge- nerally firong to the north-eaft; but we loft it at the diftance of fitteen or twenty léagues from land, :. January the 26th we took our departure from Cape Horn, andthe fartheft fouthern latitude we made was 60 deg. 10 mim. and our longitude was then 74 deg. go miny weft.. Cape Horn is fituated:in 55 deg, 53 min, ‘fouth latitude, and 68 deg,.13 min. welt-longi- tude? The'weather being very calm, Mri Banks failed -in a-finall: boat to fhoot birds, when he killed, fome fhver-waters, and albatrofles. The latter were beeper
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Rounp THE WoRLD. 43
_. than thofe which had been taken to the northward of ‘the ftreight; and proved’ to be very good food. At this time we found ow?felves to be 12 deg. tothe well- ward, and three and a@’half to the northward of the ftreight of Magellan, having, from the eaft entrance of ‘the fireight, been: three and thirty days in failing round Cape Horn. “Notwithftanding the doubling of ‘Gape Horn is reprefented as a very dangerous courfe, aid that it is generally thought pafling through the ftreight of Magellan is lefs perilous, yet the Endea- vour doubled it with as little danger as fhe would the north Foreland on the Kentifh coaft; the heavens wére ferenely fair, the wind temperate, the weather plea- fant, and, being near fhore, we had a very diftiné view of thecoait. The Dolphin, in her lait voyage, ‘which was performed at the fame feafon with ours, was not lefs than three months in paffing through the ‘ftreight of Magellan, not including the time that the fay in’ Port Famine; ‘and-it was the opinion of Captain Cook, that if we had come through the ftreight, we fliould not at. this’ time have‘‘been in *thefe feas ; and fhould have fuffered many inconveniences which we have not experienced. It is a: queftion,. 'Whe- ther it ‘is' better to go through the ftreight of Le Maire, . or'to ftand'to the eaftward, arid go round Staten land? . “Phis-can only be determined according to particular circumftanices, which itiay make one or the other more ‘eligible. "The ftreight may be pafied with fafety by at- tending to the directions’ already given; but if -the Jand is‘ fallen’ in with to the eaftward of the ftreicht, . and the wind’ fhould ‘prove tempeftuous, it‘ would be ‘beft, in‘our opinion, to’go round Staten land. In any cafe, ‘however, we cannot approve of running into the latitude! of 61 or ‘62, before any attempt is made to ftae\ to the weftward,° | _ arch the'tft we feund ourfelves, both by obferva- tioa' and the Jog, in latitude 38 deg. 44 min. fouth, ‘and rro deg. 33 min: weft Icagitude, a concurrende very fingu ar in a run of 660 leagues; and ‘which ne oe ee : proved,
Peed
44 Goox’s First VOYAGE
proved, that no current. had affected the fhip in her courfe; and. it was likewife concluded, that we had not come near land of any confiderable extent; for cyrrents are always found at ho: great diftance from the fhore. Mr. Banks killed above fixty birds in one ‘day; alfo two foreft flies, , fuch as had never yet been defcribed; he alfo found a cuttle-fith of a fpecies dif- ferent from thofe generally known. in Europe, This fifh had a double row of talons, yefembling thofe of a cat, which it could put forth or withdraw. at plea- fure.. When drefled it .made excellent foup. On the 24th our latitude was.22 deg. 11 min. fouth, and 127 deg. 55 min. weft longitude.. On the 25th a young marine abort twenty threw himfelf overboard, on ac- | count of a quarrel about:a piece of, feal fkin, which he took by way of frolic; but being charged with it as a theft, he took the accufation fo much to heart, that.in the dusk of the evening he threw. himfelf jnto the fea and was drowned... 06) 50 5 Os 4 ree On the.4th of April about,r0 o'clock, A,.M; Peter . Brifcoe, fervant to Mr: Banks, difcovered land. to the South, .at the diftance of about. three or four leagues. Capt Cook immediately gave arders.,to haul for, it, ~ when we found.an ifland of .an oval form,.-having, a ‘lagoon or Jake in the center,,-that, extended,over the greater. part: of it. The-furrounding border of land was low and narrow in many, places, efpegjally towards. the fouth, where the beach confifted of.a reef of rocks, Three places on the north fide had the fame appearance, fo that on the whole the land {eemed to refemble feveral woady iflands, To the welt was a large clump of trees, and in the center two cocoa-put trees. .. When within a mile ef the north fide, though we caft out.a line, no ’ bottom could be found at 130 fathom, nor any goad anchorage. | This ifland was. covered with trees, but we could difgeyn no other fpecies than the palm. and the cocoa-nut. Several of the natives were difcovered on fhore;, they appeared to.be tall, with heads remark- able large, which probably fome bandage might have * : “ — gngreafed,
}
Rounp THE WORLD. 4s
increafed, ‘Their complexion was of the copper colour, and their hair was black. Some of thefe people were feen abreaft of the fhip, holding poles or pikes of twice their own height, They’ appeared alfo naked ; but whxn they retired, on the fhip’s pafling by the iflands, they put on 2 light-colqured covering, | Some clumps of palm-trees ferved them for habitations, which at a diftance appeared like hilly ground, and, the view of the groves was a very agrecable one. Oyr captain cailed this place Lagoon Ifland. It lay In 18 degrees ©" ‘etitude, and 139 welt longitude. In the after- pew 2 again faw land tg the north-weit ;- by fyn-fet we rea-hed it, when it appeared to be a low ifland of a circular form, and about a mjlein circumference. The Jand was covered with verdure of various kinds, but no inhabitants were vifible, nor any cocoa-nut.trees. This jfland is diftant from that of Lagoon about feven leagues north, and 62 welt, which our gentlemen on board named Thumb Cap. es On the sth we continued our courfe with a favour- able wind, and about three o’clock difcovered land to the weftward. It was low, in form refembling ‘a bow, and in circumference feemed to be ten’ or twelve jeagues, Its Jengthis about three or four leagues, and its width about two hundred yards. The beach was flat, and feemed to have no other herbage upon it than fea- weeds, The refemblance of a bow was preferved in the arch and cord forming the land, while the inter- mediate {pace was taken up by water. The arch, in general, was covered with trees of yarious verdure and (lifferent heights.. This ifland, from the’ fmoke that was difcovered, appeared to be inhabited, and we gave jt the name of Bow Ifland, fii Rae On the 6th about noon, we again fawland to the weft, and at three o’¢lock we came up with it, This land Jeemed to be divided into two parts, or rather a collec- ‘tion of iffands (ta which we gave the name of the {Sroups) to the extent of about nine leagues. Thetwoa Jargett were divided from the others by'a ftreight, the , ee | breadth
46 Coox’s FIRST VOYAGE
breadth of which was about half a. mile. Some of thefe iflands were ten miles or more in length, but ap- peared like long narrow ftrings of land, ‘not oe a quarter of a mile in breadth ; but, they, produced trees, however, of different kinds, among which was the coccarnut tree. ‘Several'of the inhabitants came out in their canoes, and two of thém fhewed an intention of coming on board; but thefe, like the reft, ftopped at the. reef, From’ the obfervations made, thefe people appeared. to be about our fize, and well made. Their complexion.was brown, and they were naked. In ge- neral,, they. had two weapons; one was. a Jong pole, {pear painted, and the other refembled'a paddle. “Se. - veral of their canoes were.conftructed in foch a manner, as not to carry more than three perfons; others were — fitted up for fix or feven; and one of thefe boats hoifted a fail, which was converted into an awning when a fhower of rain fell, Capt. Cook would not ftay for any of them, neither could we determine, whether the fignals made were meant for deflance, or for invitation; one party waving their hats, and another anfwering by thouting. In this refpeg it was not judged prudent to try the'experiment, in,order to be convinced, as the ifland appeared of no importance, and the. ergw not heing in want of any thing it could produce. This Guciofity was therefore laid afide, fn eran of {oon difcovering the ifland, where we had’ been directed to make our a@ronomical obfervations, ‘the natives of
hich, it was reafonable to conjecture, would make tio refiftange, having already experienced the danger of apporing an gary tm ee ee
~ On the ath we ‘coveted another ifland, judged to be in compafy abaut five miles, being’ very low, and having a piege. af water in the center. ‘It appeared to ‘abound in wogd, and ta be cavered with verdure, but ‘we faw no inhabitants upon it. It was named Bird Iland, from the number of birds that were feen flying about. This lies in latitude 17 deg. 48 nin. foal
\Je; diftant ten suse leagues,
and 143 deg. 35 min. welt longiti
Rovunn rHe Woxrs, 4?
leagues, in the direction weft half north from the weft end of the Groups.
-On the 8th in the afternoon we faw land to the north- ward, and came abreaft of it in the evening, at about five miles diftance. This land feetmed to be a chain of low iflands, of an oval figure, and confifted of coral and fand, with a few clumps of fmall trees, and in
‘the middle of it was a lagoon. On account of its
appearance, it was called Chain Ifland.
On the roth, after a tempeftuous night, we came in fight of Ofnaburgh ifland, called by the natives Maitea. This ifland is circular, about four ‘miles in circumference, partly rocky, and partly covered with trees. .
Coox’s Firrast VoraGE
CH A P.. Itt.
The Endeavour arrives at Otaherte, or George the Thiva’s Mand—Rules eftablifhed by Capt. Cook for conduéting trade with the nalivei—Aun account of feveral incidents during bis fay in this ifland—An obfervatory and fort evetted—Excurfions into the words—Vifits from feveral of the chiefs—The mufic of the natives, and their manner of
burying their dead, deferibed—Other excurfions and inci dents, bath on board and on foove—Firft interview with Oberea, the fuppofed Q:ccn of the ifland—The fort de- fevibed—The quadrant folen, and the confequences—A vifit to Tootabah, an Indian chief—A wreftling match de- feribed—Exuropean feeds ave fown-—The Indians givé our people names.
N the 11th we made Otsheite, or, as captain Wallis had named it, king George the Third’s Mland. The calms prevented our approaching it till the morning of the 12th, when a breeze {prung up, and feveral canoes were feen making towards the fhip. Few of them, however, would come near, and thofe whg did could not be perfuaded to come on board. They had brought’with them. young ‘plantains and branches of trees, which were handed up the fhip’s fide, and, by their defire, were ftuck in confpicuous _» (parts of the rigging as tokens of peace and friendthhip. ig then pyrchafed their commodities, confifting of “¢ocoa-nuts, banagas, bread-fruit, apples and figs, which ‘were very acceptable.to the'crew. On the evening of the fame day we opened the north-weft point of the ifle, to which the Dolphin’s people had given the name of York Ifland. ‘We lay off and on all-night, and in the morning of the 13th we entered Port Royal Har- bour in the ifland of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the fhore. Many of the natives came oft immediately in their canoes, and brought with them pread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and fome hogs, which
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Round THE WorLbD. 49
they bartered for beads and other trinkets with the fhip’s company. ‘The tree which bears the bread-fruit is about the fize of a horfe-chefnut: its leaves are near a foot and a half in length, in fhape oblong, and very much refemble thofe of the fig-tree. The fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon: it is inclofed in a thin. fkin, and its core’is as large as a man’s thumb. - The fubftance of this fruit is fomewhat like that of new bread, and as white as the blanched almond. ° It muft. be roafted, and when eaten it has the tafte of a flight {fweetnefs. :
Among thofe who came on board the Endeavour, was an elderly man, named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gore and others who had ‘vifited this ifland ‘with cap- tain Wallis. Owhaw being confidered by our gentle- men as a very ufeful’man, they ftudied to pleafe him, and: to gratify all his wifhes. As our continuance in George’s Ifland was not likely to be very fhort, certain rules wer¢ drawn up to be obferved by every perfon on board his majefty’s bark the Endeavour, for the better eftablifhing a regular.trade with the natives. The fub- ftance of thefe rules were, ‘© That in order-to prevent quarrels and confufion, every one of the fhip’s crew thould endeavour to treat the inhabitants of Otaheite with humanity, and by all fair means to cultivate a friendfhip with them. That ho officer, ‘feaman, or other perfon, belonging to the fhip, excepting fuch only who were ip bs a to barter'with the natives, fhould trade, or offer to trade, for any kinds of provi- fion, fruit, or other produce ‘of. the ifland, without hav- ing exprefs leave fo todo. That no perfon fhould em- bezzle, trade, or offer to trade with any. part of the fhip’s ftores: and, that no fort of iron, or any thiftg’ made of iron, nor any fort of cloth, or other ufi-ful ar- ticles in the fhip, fhould be given in exchange for any thing but provifion.”’’ Thef€ nécéflary rules were fign- ed by Capt. Cook, and, being his orders, to the non- obfervance of them were annexed certain penalties, befides the punifhment according to the ufual cuftom of the navy, © - !
No, 2.° G When
50 CooKk’s FIRST VoyvaGce
, When the bark was properly fecured, Capt. Cook, _Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went on fhore, with a party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. ‘They were received by fome hundreds of the natives with awe and reverence, who exchanged the tokens of peace, and offered to conduct them to a {pot of ground, which would be more convenient for them to occupy, than that where they had landed... On their way, the Englith made the Indians fome prefents, which the \atter very thankfully received. They now took a cir- Cuit of about four miles through groves of the bread- fruit and cocoa-trees.. Intermingled with. thefe were the dwellings of the natives, which confifted of huts ‘without walls. In the courfe of their journey they, found but few fowls or hogs, and underiiood, that none. of their conductors, nor any of the people they had hitherto feen, were perfons of rank in the land. Thofe of our crew, who had before been at Otaheite in the Dolphin, were likewife of opinion, that the queen’s refidence had been removed, as no traces of it were
now to be difcovered. |. : Next day, in the morning, before they could leave the fhip. feveral canoes came about her filled with peo- ple, whofe drefs denoted them to be of the fuperior clafs. Two of thefe came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend: one of them chofe Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremonials confifted of taking off their cloaths in great. part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was returned by our gentlemen prefenting them with fome trinkets. They then made figns for their new friends to go with them to the place of their abode; and the latter being defirous of being acquainted with the people, and finding out a more convenient harbour, accepted the invitation, and went with them, accom- panied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, anfg@thers. We all landed in two boats at the diftance of about three miles, among a great number of the na- tives, who conducted us to a large habitation, where we were introduced to a middle-aged man, named : “Tootahah,
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“Rounp THE WoRLD. 5%
Tootahah. When we were feated, he prefented ta Mr. Banks a cock, a hen, and a piece of perfumed cloth, which compliment was returned by a prefent from Mr. Banks. We were then conducted to feveral other large dwellings, wherein we walked about with great freedom. The ladies, fo far from fhunning, invited, and even prefled us to be feated. By fre- quently pointing to the mats upoy the ground, and fometimes drawin x us down upon them, we had no doubt of their being lefs jealous of obfervation than we were ; but the Huts that are all open, except a roof, afforded no place of requifite rétirement. Walking afterwards along the fhore, we met, accompanied by a great number of natives, another chief, named Tu- bourait Tamaide, with whom we fettled a treaty of peace, in the manner before defcribed, This chief ae us to underftand, that he had provifions at our ervice, if we chofe to eat, which he produced, and we dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains, and fith. During this vifit, Tomio, the chief’s wife, placed herfelf upon the fame mat with Mr. Banks, clofe by him; but as fhe was not young, nor appeared ever to have poffeffed many charms, this gentleman paid little attention to her; and Tomio received an addi- tronal mortification, when Mr. Banks beckoned’ to.a pretty pr, who, with fome reluctance, came and placed herfelf by him. The princefs was fomewhat chagrined at this preference given to her rival; never- thelefs fhe continued her‘affiduities to her gueft. This whimfical feene was interrupted by an event of a more ferious nature ; Dr. Solander having miffed his opera glafs,-a complaint was made to the chief, which inter- rupted the convivial party. The complaint was !~forced by Mri Banks’s ftarting up and ftriking the butt-end of his mufquet ood the ground, which {truck the In- dians with fuc anic, that all of them ran precipi- tately out of the houfe except the chief and a few athers of the fuperior claf, That no difadvantageous notions might be’ entertained of them on account of
‘this circumilance, the chief: obferved, with an air of
G 2 great
Sa Coox’s First VOYAGE
great probity, That the place which the Doctor had mentioned on this occafion, was not within his diftrict, but that he would fend to the chief of it, and endea- vour to recover it, adding, that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compenfation, by iving him.as much new cloth, (of which he produced arge sade 4 as fhould be thought equal to the va- Iue. The cafe however was brought in a little timc, and the glafs itfelf foon after, which deprived us of the merit we fhould otherwife have had in refufing the cloth which had been offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of our gene- rofity, by lavifhing rewards upon them for an ation, to which felf-intereft had been the motive, rather than any fentiment of probity ; to which, from numerous tranfactions, they appeared to-be abfolutely ftrangers. After this adventure was amicably terminated, we re- turned to the fhip about fix o’clock in the evening. On Saturday. the 15th, in the morning, feveral of the chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refrefhments, in exchange for which they received linen, beads, and other trinkets; but fome of them took the liberty of ftealing the lightening chain. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks, and fome of the other gentlemen, went on fhore, to fix on a proper fpot to erect a fort for their de- fence, during their ftay on the ifland, and the ground was accordingly marked out for that purpofe; a great number of the natives looking on all the while, and be- having in the moft peaceable and friendly manner. Mr. Banks and his friends having feen few hogs and poultry in their walks, they fufpected. that they had been driven up the country; for which reafon they determined to penetrate into the woods, the tent be- ing guarded by a petty officer and a party of marines, On this excurfion feveral of the natives accompanied the Englifh. While the party were on their march, they were alarmed by the difcharge of two pieces fired hy the guard of the tent. Qwhaw having now called , together
me
Round THE Woxtp. 53
together the captain’s party, difperfed all the Indians, except three, who in token of their fidelity broke branches of trees, according to their cuftom, ‘and whom it was thought proper to retain. When they re-
‘ turned to the tent, they found that an Indian having
{natched away one of the centinel’s mufquets, a young midfhipman, who commanded the party, was fo im- prudent as to give the marines orders to fire, which were obeyed, and many of the natives were wounded; but this did not fatisfy them, as the offender had not fallen, they thcrefore purfued him and revenged thé theft by his death. This aétion, which was equally in- confiftent with policy and humanity, could not but be very difpleafing to Mr. Banks; but as what had. patled could not be recalled, nothing remained but to endea- vour to accommodate matters with the Indians. Ac cordingly he croffed the river, where he met an old man, through whofe mediation feweral of the natives were prevailed to come over to them, and to give the ufual tokens of friendfhip. The next:morning, how- ever, they faw but few of the natives on the banks, and none came on board, from whence it was can- cluded that the treatment they had received the former day was not yet forgotten, and the Englifh were con- firmed in this opinion by Owhaw’s having left them. In confequence of thefe circumftances, the captain brought the fhip mearer to the fhore, and moored her in fuch a manners to make her broad-fide bear on the {pot which they had marked out for ere¢ting their little ortification. But im the evening the captain and fome. of the gentlemen goime on fhore, the Indians came. round them, and trafficked with them as ufual. , Mr, Banks on the rth, had the misfortune to lofe Mr. Buchan, The fame day they received a vifit from Tubourai Tamaide, audi Tootahah. They brought with them {ome plamtain branches, and till thefe were re- ccived, they wemld not venture on board. They bar- tcred fome bread-fruit and a hog, which was ready drefled, for nails, with the Englih. _, The fort began to be erected on the 18th. And pow: ome
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fome of the company were employed in throwing up intrenchments, whilit others were bufied in cuttin ' fafeines and pickets, in which work the Indians Mitte them. ‘They fortified three fides of the piace, with in- trenchments and pallifadoes, and upon the other which was flanked by a river, where a breaft-work was formed by the water-cafks. The natives brought down fuch quantities of bread fruit and ¢ocoa-nuts this day, that it was neccflary to refufe them, and to le¢ them know that none would be wanting for two days, Mr, Banks flept for the firft time on fhore this night. None of the Indians attempted to approach his tent, he had how- ever taken’ the precaution of placing centinels about it, for its defence, in cafe any attack fhould be meditated. | - Fubourai Tamaide vifited Mr. Banks at his tent on Wednefday the r9th, and brought with him his wife and family with the materials for erecting’a houfe, in- tending to’ build it near the fort. He aftecwards afked’
that gentleman to accompany him to the woods. On their arrival at a place where he fometimes refided, he prefented his guefts with two garments, one ef which’ wes of. red cloth, and the other was made of fine mat- ting; having thus clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the fhip, and ftaid' to dinner with his wife acd’ fon. ‘They had a difh ferved up that day, which°was . prepared bythe attendants of Tubourai Tamaide, which ' feemed like wheat: flour, and being mixed with cocoa: rut liquor, it was ftirred about tillit became a jelly, Its flavour was fomething like blane mange. A fort of warket was now eftablifhed without the lines of the fort, which was tolerably well fupplied, and Tubourai Ta-’ maide was a frequent gueft to Mr. Banks, and’ the other Englifh gentlemen... He was the only: native that attempted to ufe.a knife and fork, being‘fond of adopt- ifig European manners, Mr, Monkhoufe'thefurgeon béihg “abroad on his evening walk, reposted that he had‘feen: the body: of a man’ who- had' been fhot from. the‘tént; of which he gave the following account—~ — “ The corpfe was -depofited’ in: a‘‘fhed;‘clofe to the oitfe where tie’ deéeafed had: refided: when he was
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alive, and others were within ten yards-of it. It was about fifteen feet in length, and cleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable, The fides and one end were inclofed with a fort of wicker work ; the other end’ was entirely open. The body lay on a bier, the ‘frame of which was of wood, fupported by pofts about five feet high, and was covered with a mat, over which Jay.a white cloth; by the fide of it lay a wooden mace, and. towards the head two cocoa fhells; towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and. {mall dried boughs tied together, and ftuck in the ground, near which was a ftone about, the fize of a cocoa-nut; here’ were alfo. placed a,young plantain tree, and a ftone axe. A great many palm nuts were hung in ftrings at
’ the open end of the fhed; and the ftem of a palm-
tree was ftuck up on the outfide of it, upon which was placed a cocoa-fhell filled with water. At the fide of one of the pofts there hung a little bag with fome roufted pieces Of bread-fruit.”” The natives were not pleafed at his approaching the body, their jealoufy ap-: pearing plainly in their countenances and geitures,
_ On the 22d we were entertained by fome of the mu- ficians of the country, who. performed on an inftru- ment fomewhat refembling a,German flute, -but. the performer blew through his: noftril. initead of his mouth, and others accompanied this inftrument, fing- ing only one tune. Some of the Indians brought their axes to\grind and repair, moft of which they had ‘ob- tained from Captain Wallis and his people in the Dol- phin;, but a French one occafioned a little fpeculation, and at length upon enquiry, it appeared to have been left here by M.de Bougainville. =... ee - On the 24th Mr. Banks and’ Dr. Solander made ag excurfion into the country, and found it level and fer- tile Pies Fis fhore, for:abeut two miles tothe cait- ward; after which the hills reached quite te the wa- es. edge; and, farther on they ran out into the fea.
Hes, we Came to an qxtenfive plain,-ahounding with
goed habitations, and the people feamed to enjay.a confiderable share of property... The place wae-reae a, ere
te
‘4
‘56 Coox’s First VOYAGE
dered ftill more agreeable by a wide river iffuing from a valley, and which watered it. We croffed this river, when perceiving the country to be barren, we refolved to return. Juft as we were about fo to do, we were of- fered fome refrefhment by a man, which fome writers have exprefled to be a mixture of many nations, but different from all, his fkin being of a dead white, though fome parts of his body were not fo white as others; and his hair, eye-brows and beard were as white as his fkin. His eyes appeared like thofe that are ‘blood fhot, and he feemed as if he was near- fighted. Upon our return, the exceflive joy of Tu- bourai Tamaide and his women is not to be ex- prefled. Bh
On the 25th, in the evening, feveral of the gentle- mens knives being mifing; Mr. Banks, who had loft his among the reft, accufed Tubourai Tamaide of hav- ing taken it, which as he was innocent, occafioned him a great deal of unmerited anxiety. He made figns, while the tears ftarted from his eyes, that if jhe had ever been guilty of fuch a theft as was imputed to him, he would fuffer his throat to be cut. But though he was innocent, it was plain from many inftances, -that the-natives of this ifland were very much addicted to thieving: though Mr. Banks’s fervant had miflaid the. knife in queftion, yet the reft were produced in a rag, by one of the natives.-» | ~ When the guns on the 26th, which were fix fwivels, had. been mounted on the fort, thé.Indians feemed to be in-great trouble, and feveral of the fifhermen re- moved, fearing, notwithftanding all the marks of friend fhip which had been fhewn to them by our people, they fhould, within a few days, be fired at from the fort: yet the next day, being the 27th, Tubourai Tamaide came with three women, and a friend of his, who was. a remarkable glutton, into the fort to dine with us, and _after dinner returned. to: his own. houfe in the wood, In a fhort time after he came back to complain to Mr. Banks, of a butcher, who had threatened to cut his wife's throat, becanfe-fhe would not’ barter a ftoné hvtchet for a nail.. It appearing. clearly that the yrs ae bead oe ; . fae ; er
Rounp THE Worip. $72
der had infringed, one of the rules enjoined by the Captain for trading with the natives, he was flogged on board in their fight. _When the firft ftroke had been given they were humane enough to interfere, and intreated earneftly that the culprit might be untied; but when this favour was denied them, they fhewed ftrong figns of concern, and burft into tears. ~ Qn the 28th, Terapo, one of Tubourai Tamiaide’s female attendants, came down to the fort in the greateft affliction, the tears gufhing from her eyes. - Mr. Banks ‘feeing her full of lamentation and forrow, infifted upén knowing the caufe, but inftead of anfwering, fhe ftryck herfelf feveral times with a fhark’s tooth upon her head, till an effufion of blood followed, while ‘her diftrefs was difregarded by feveral other Iadians, who continued Jaughing and talking with the utmoft un- concera.;: After this, fhe gathered up fome i e8 of cloth, which the had thrown down ta:catch the blood and threw: them into. the fea,. as if fhe wifbed to pre- vent the’leaft trace and mark of her abfurd behaviour; _ She.then bathed in the. river, and with, remarkable ‘chearfulnefs returned to the'tent, as if nothing extraor, dinary had happened. ° During the forenoon of this day the Indian canoes were continually coming in, anc people of both fexes filled the tents of the fort.” Mr, Molineux, mafter of the Endeavour, feeing a woman whofe name was Oberea, he declared fhe, was the famé perfon,, whom he judged to. be the queen of the ifland ‘when he; was. there with Capt. Wallis, The eyes of every one; were’ now fixed on her, of whom fo much had. been faid: by the crew of the Dolphia, and in thé account given of her by the captain. _ With regard to her perfon, -the was tall and rather large made ; the was about forty: years of age, her, fkin white, and her eyes had great/expreffion in them: fhe had been handfome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. “It was‘not long before an offer was made to,conduct her on board the fhip, which fhe accepted. Many. prefents were made her, particularly a.child’s doll, which the viewed wery. attentively. Capt. Cook accompanied. her on ci No. 2; Be
58 Cook’s First Vorace
fibre, and when we landed, fhe prefented ‘him with a hog and, fome plantains, in return for his prefents, yhle were carried to the fort in proceffion, Oberea and the Captain bringing up the rear. Jn the way they me¢ Tootahah “who, thopgh pot king, feemed to be at this time invetted with fovereign authority. Envy is found among thofe who are fuppofed’ to be the ‘children of fimple nature. Wer influence was plainly vifible ia a matter which ‘to us was‘ rather a fubjeét of laughter f yan df ferious tonfideration.’ Tootahah no fooner faw the doll, thart he difcovered ftrong fymptoms‘of jea- lout y, nor coyld any mcthod be found of congiliating his, fdendthip, but that of complimenting him witha baby alfo.. ‘A doll was’ now preferable’ toa hatchety
ut a‘ very fhort time taught the Indians the fuperior value of iron, which, on account of its ufefulnefs, pre- vailed ower every other confideration. To fuch of the men who came from time to’time on board, : the fhip’s provilions.feemed to be very acceptable, but the women did not chufé to’ afte nat 3 pee ehowers ‘they were cou: *~" to dine‘ with’ our’ Bent é » for téafons
men, ye
made no ferret; and as to young Obadee, ‘founds bed with the quech, "he was well known by evéry one to be the pbject of fier Infciviots ‘hours.’ The queen
9 5 Bs :§, and, after having, ‘ag @ token ‘of her pdrticu- Jar regard, put ‘on him a fuit of fine cloth; they pro-
ecded together to the ‘tents: In‘ the evéning Mr, Hanks visited Thbourai Tzaide,’ He way altonithed
the Wiolent'fickne(s he fuffered, that he had fwallow: vhs He Sn ae
Rounn tHe Woats. $9
to find this chief and his family in tears, and not being able to difcover the caufe, he foon took leave of them. Upon his return the officers told him, that Owhaw. had foretold, that ‘the guts, would be fired within four days, and as this“was. the, eve of the third day, they were alarmed at the fituation they judged themfelves to be in. ‘As we were apprehenfive of ill confequences from this prepoffeflion; the centinels were doubled at the fort, and we thought it neceflary to. keep under arms; but Mr. Banks walking round the point, at two
“in ‘the morning, and finding nothing that might tend
to encourage his fufpicions, he dropped them, and refted fecure in the fort. This our little fortification
_ was now complete. A bank of earth four feet.and an
half high on the infide, and a ditch, without ten feet broad and fix deep, formed. the north and fouth fides. On the weft, oppofite the bay, was, another bank (with pallifadoes upon it) four feet high; but a ditch “was unneceflary, the works being at high-water mark. ‘Upon the river’s bank, on the caft-fide, wasa range of water cafks, filled with,water. This being thought the weakeft fide, we planted two four pounders, and mounted fix fwivel guns, which commanded the only two avenues from ¢he woods. We had about forty- five mén in this fort, including the ofticers, and other gentlemen who refided on fhore. . ith: Oi: the 30th Tomio came in great hafte to our tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, told him that.Tu- bourai. Tamaide was dying, owing to fomewhat. that had been given him by our people, and intreated him inflantly to goto him, Accordingly Mr, Banks went, and found: the Indian very fick. He had been vomit- ins, and had thrown up a leaf which they. faid ;con- tained fome of the poifon.. ;Mr, Banks having .exas mined the leaf, found. it: was: nothing but tabacce, which the Indian had begged.of fome of the fhip’s companys.) robag anych jal) beds The matter, however, appeared in.a voy ferious light to\Tubourai:-Tamaide, who really concluded: rom :
fome
‘60 CoOok’s Frrst Vov.GE
fome deadly drug, the terror of which no doubt cort- ‘tributed t6 make him yet morefick. While Mr. Banks “was examining the leaf, he looked up to him, as if he had been juft on the point of death. But when the na- ture of this dreadful poifon was found out, he only or- ‘dered him to drink of cocoanut milk, which foon re- {tored him to health, and he‘was as chearful as before the accident happened. ’ Thefe people feemed in par- ticular inftances to bé fometimes ftrangely afflicted ‘trom flight cafes. LU AEM EA IAL | On the 1ft of May, Captain Cook having produced an iron adze, which was made in imitation of the ftone ‘ones-ufed by the natives, fhewed it to Toota’iah, as a ‘curidfity,: The latter. {natched it up and infifted on havihg it;’and though le-was offered the choice of any of the articles in the chefts which were opened ‘before him, yet he would not accept of any thing in ‘its lead)” A-chief dined with us that day, who had ‘beet on board fome time before, accompanied by fome of his women that ufed to feed him. He now came ‘alone; ‘and when all things were fet ready for dinner, hi captain helped him to fome victuals, fuppofing ‘that he would have'difpenfed with the ceremony of be- ‘ingfed; ‘but he was deceived; for the chief never at- ‘tempted to eat, and would have gone without his din- ner, if one of the fervants had not fed him. The mext morning, May 2, we took the aftronomical qua- ‘drant and fome of the inftrumerits on fhore that after- — nOon; afid to our ‘great furprife when we wanted to fnake ufe of-the quadrant, the next day, it was not.to ‘be found; ‘a matter ‘which-was looked upon as the more extraordinary, a3 a centinel kad been placed for the whole: night within a few yards of the. place where it side depohited.- Onr own people,’ at firft, were fufpect- _ ed of being concerned ‘if’ this theft, and, ay the in- | Aiument had never been takén-out Of the cafe, it was _ fufpe@ed that fome perfon might have carried it off, tide? the fuppofition that its contents were articles bet ci traffic. “A frit’ féarch was madein and about eifrt, and a confiderable reward offered in orderto 7“ 2:1 obtain.
-lieutenant who comman -it in charge not to fuffer any canoe to depart, fent a ‘boat: to detain her, but. fhe no fooner approached, than
Gt
obtain it again, But all this proving ‘fmitlefs, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green and fome other
Rounpn THE WORLD)
- gentlemen, ‘fet out for the woods, where they thought
they might probabiy get fome tidings of what was ftolen. In their way, they mct with Tubourai -Ta- maide and fome of the natives. This chief was made to underftand by figns, that they had loft the quadrant, and that as fome x his countrymen muft have taken it, they infifted upon being fhewn the place where it was concealed. Having proceeded a few miles to-
ether, after fome enquiry, Tubourai Tamaide was in- formed who the thief was, and it was found that he was then at a place about four miles diftant. As they had no arms but’a brace of piftols, not.caring to.truft them- felves fo far from the-fort, a mef"ige was difpatched to Captain Cook, requefting him to fend out a party to fupport them. . The captain pear, | fet out with a party properly armed, after having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay.
In the mean time, Mr. Banks and Mr. Green ceeded on their way, and at the’place which had. been ‘mentioned, were met by one.of Tubourai Tamaide’s own people, bringing with him part of the quadrant; the cafe and the other. parts of the inftrument were recovered foon afterwards, when it. was found that: it had received ‘no real ifjury, though it had been taken to pieces.
When they returned in the evening, they were much furprifed to find Tootahah under confinement in the fort, while a croud of the natives fuirrounded the gate, difcovering marks of the greateft anxiety for the fate of their chief.. The occafion of his detention originated from the conduct of the Indians: alarmed. at:Capt. Cook’s having gone up the country with an armed party, moft of the natives left the fort that evening, and one‘of the canoes attempted to quit the bay. The
ded on: board the fhip, haviag
the Jndfanc' jumped into. the'fea,. Tootahah being of iw the
ée Coor’s FIRST VOYAGE.
thé nuniber, was taken up, and:fent by the lieutenant ‘to the officer that commanded at the fort; who conclud- ed he fhav'd do right to detain him prifoger,: while the poor chief thought of nothing but being pnt to death, till Capt. Cook caufed him to be returned, to the great joy of his countrymen. But the natives were ftill in- ¢linec: to bear this affair in their minds; and as a proof of it, they neglected to fupply the market with provi- fions. Mr. Banks walking into the woods, heard Se murmurings concerning the treatment of Toota- ah, who, as they faid, had been ill ufed and beaten, though Mr. Banks declared he was quite ignorant of his having received fuch treatment. | The chief now fent for fuch hogs to. be reftored as ke had left behind him, at firft intending them asa prefent, which by this time, perhaps, he did not think the Enghith had merited; but they refufed to fend them unlefs he would come himéelf, thinking by an interview to promote a reconciliation; and this they were the more defious of, as they were told it would be a fort- night before he would pay them a vifit. On the 3d provifions were extremely fcarce, as the ‘mnarkets continued to be ill fupplied on the account already mentioned; and it was not without fome dif- feulty, that Mr. Banks got a few bafkets of bread-fruit from Tubourai Tamaide. Tootahah on the 4th fent - for an axe and a fhirt in return for the hogs, which _ ‘were accordingly promifed to be brought him the mext day. He fent again early in the morning of the sth, aad Mr. Banks and the Doétor fet out in the pin- nace, taking with them one of Tootahah’s people, and ‘feon reached Eparre, where he refided, which was a few miles to'the weftward. When they arrived there, ‘they found a great number of the natives waiting for ‘them on the fhore, and'were conducted: direétly tothe chief, the people notwithftanding the offence they had ‘fo lately taken, fhouting out in their language, “’'Too- ‘tahah is your friend.” He was. fitting uinder'a tree, and fome old men were ftanding about him. Having made figns for them.to:be feated, he afked for the _ wos waice
Rouwn THE WORLD. 63
which was then given him by Capt. Cook, as alfo the fhirt that he had demanded, and a broad-cloth garment, which latter he put on, and was well:pleafed with the prefent. ‘They ate a mouthful together in the, boat, and were afterwards conduéted to a large court-yard on one fide of the-chief’s houfe, where they. were to be entertained: with wreftling after the manner of. the country. He himfelf fat at the upper end of the.area, having feveral of his principal men on cach fide of him, who appeared as judges of: the fport, which was as follow: - & Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many fimple ceremonies-of challenging, they engaged, and each endeavoured to throw his antagonilt by mere ftrength : thus they feized each other, by the hand, or other parts of the body, grappling, ‘without the jeaft art, till one, by having a greater, hold, or
. ftronger ‘mufcular force, threw his artagonift.on. his
back. The ¢onqueft was applauded by the, old men with 2 few words repeated in a kind of mune, and with three huzzas.. After one engagement. another OG
ae i ae are #
women of rank in the country were prefent, but it was thought they only,attended this amufement ip complis ment to the Englith gentlemen. A man, with asftick, who made way for ys when we: landed, officiated as. matter of the ceremonies, keeping order. among the eople, and thofe of ithem who. prefled forward he muck with his ftick very fmartly., During thefe athley - tic fports, another party of men performed.a dance, for the ‘pace of a minute, but. neither of thefe.parties took the leaft notice of each other, their attention being wholly fixed on their own endeavours to pleafe and conquer. At the conclufion of this.entertaiament, not unlike the wreftling matches of remote antiquity, | we were told, that fome hogs, and a large, quantity of bread fruit were preparing for our dinaer, very agrees able intelligence to thofe whofe appetites were fharpen- Roe? | | ed
64 Coe@Kk’s FIRST VOvaGce
€d by their journey; but our hoft, inftead of fetting his two hogs before us, ordered one ‘of them to be carried: snto our boat.. Here we thought to have enjoyed our ‘good cheer, and yet we neither’dined-on fhore, nor in the boat, but at the defire of Twbourai Tamaide,. pro- eceded ‘as ‘far as the fhip: no {mall mortification this, as we had to’ row four miles, while: our dinner was growing cold: however, we were at laft gratified with our promifed repaft, of which our chief and his friends hada liberal fhare.. This friendly recencilia- tion between them and us, operated on the natives liké a charm: for it was‘no fooner known that Tubou- — yai Tamaide was on board, than provifions of all kinds were brought to the fort in great plenty. “9 On the 8th, ‘early in the morning, Mr. Molineux, the mafter,’and-Mr. Green fet out: in the pinnace ta thie eaftward, in order to procure fome poultry, or hogs. They ‘faw many of the latter, and one turtle, -yet:could . fot purchafecither, becanfethey belonged to Tootahah, and withoit ‘his permiffion, the people could not. be prevailéd ‘tipon ‘to fell them. Hence we concluded that Tootahah was indeed a prince; and we afterwards Fearrit; that; in this part of the ifland, he acted:asregent for'a’ minor, whom. wé never faw all the time of our Ray here. « However, fome’ time. afterwards, having prodiiced' fome nails to barter for provifions,. w- ob: tained ‘near'twenty' cocoa-nuts, and fome bread- fruit, for one 6f the fmalleft-fize,-fo that we foon had plenty of thefe articles, though-no: hogs: ‘In this excurfion Mr. Greén ‘imagined: he. had difcovered a tree fixty yards in-¢ircumicrence ;' but, on his returns he was in- formed by‘our-two gentlemen, ‘that it was a fpecies of the fig, ‘whofe branches bending down to. the. carth take fteth root, and’ thus form a mafs ofitrunks, which being all united by a common vegetation, might eafily be miftaken for one trank-or body.: | '. . © -On'the oth in the forenoon, Oberea paid us a. vifit, accompanied ‘by her favourite Obadee, prefenting _us with a hog and fome' bread:fruit,: : ‘This was the. firl _ wilit ‘we had’ received from this lady; fince, the lofs of
*h our
. his ried our yr in TO- thine nner tified d his cilia- ytives. sbou- kinds
ineux, ace to hogs. could - tahah, not be ed that wards regent =| of our rob it fruit, plenty surfion e fixty as in- ecies of e.carth | which t eafily
a vilit, ing .us he firft lofs of
our
Round rue: Worip: CF
out quadrant; and the confinement of Tootahah. By this time our foie wa fev. up and)at work, which afforded a new fubject of admiration to the Indians, and to Capt. Cook an additiondl-opportunity of, cons ferring obligations on them, by permitting the {mith, in his leifure hours,,ta convert the old iron, which they were {uppofed to-have. procured fromthe Dolphin, intd different kinds of tools. Oberea produced as mueh ald ‘iron as would have made.for her another axe; this fhe requetted to have done;: towever the.lady could not be | so em this particular, upon which {he brought a roken axe, desiring it might be:metded., The.axe was mended, and. to. all appearance: fhe was content. On their return home, the Indians took with them .the canoe which had lain fome time-at the point. i - Onthe.soth we:fowed,.in ground properly prepared; feeds of melons, and ‘other plants, but none-of them came up, except: muftard.. Mr. Banks thought the feeds were fpoiled by a total exclufion of frefh air,’ hey having all been put into {mall bottles,’ and fealed up with rofin.. We learnt this day, that the Indians‘called the ifland: Otaheitey. the name by which we have dif tinguifhed ity but we were not fo fortunate:in out ene deavonre 'to teach them our names ; and, after repéated attempts to pronouncé them, which proved fruitlefs, they:had recoutle to:ntw' ones, the productions of their own ‘inVention.: Capt. Cook sthey named ‘Toote;. Mr. Hicks, Heéte. ‘The: mafter they: called Boba, from his chriftian ‘name: Rovert 5 Mri Gore; Toarro; Dr. Solag- der;:‘Torano ; Mr. Banks; ‘Tapanes;) Mr. Green, Eteree ; Mr. Parkinfon, Patani y ‘Mr. Sporing, Polini; and fo om forthe -greateft pant of the thip’s erew: Thefe perhaps, were ob aR i their Own language; dnd'we are inolined to this. apimion, becaufe Mr. Monkhoufe, who: commanded the patty,’ that fhot the man for ftealidgya mutket;: they named Matte, which was not merely 'afvarbitrary found, but in their language it
fignified dead:
No. 4 i CH A P,
rca aaa aciniapw eaenen eaten emnasmgraeiniien
ae cena eee re
= arvattn dinimamwege toe
cerns en
—pireramnayocn-teoestny_cemaption
“ a ne onal . 2 aS Aaa Soe y~-wrneny "i oa - RI = ag irr or = sa —— nae tnndirenmenasowe ‘ Seeerapm ’
66 Coox’s Firsr Vowvace
ezerest bP Moen to soaydut V9 nis
Anr extraordinary vifita-Divine service “attended by the na- sipsves of en : t fight-nTubouras Tamaide y found guilty of thefis—A dvifit paid: t+ TootababVarious adventires at: tbat tithe, and an extraotdikary amnfement ‘lof ithe Indians—A relation of what bappened at the fort, pile: preparations ‘were. making: to. ebferve the Tranfit of Venus—T be obfervations made. with great fuccefs— pars ° tenular account: and defcription of aniIndian’ fanéral—An unufeal charaéter: among: the: Indians-.A> robbery at the Sort+S pecimeniof Indian cookery—<A narrative of various » incident s-—A cireumnavigation of the ifland; and occurrences during this expeditiom——A burying-plate, and a Morai;:os place of ret deferibed— An suland: expedition’ of (Mr. \° Banks—Preparations made by ‘the ‘crew of the Endeavair
to leave the:i/land of Otalterte—-An accoantof the depaxture :
Of the Endeavour, and the behaviour of the natives, parti»
, cullatly of Tupid, on this occafion.::
\.cenemony was performed-by/fome of :thematives:
F ry thet 2th of this. month! (May) an: ubceitimon
As: Mr: Batiks' was fitting im his:/boat;: trading. with - themnixas -ufual, fome ladies; ‘who; were {tran gers, <ad> -wanved in procefion towards: him: « The retb:.dfithe - Indians'on ‘edch:fide gave way) and formed? lane for
the wifitors to‘pafs,iwho:commig up.to Mr. Batiks, 'pre-
. fented him -with fome: parrots : feathers, :and :various. ‘kinds:of plants. .Tapid, who ftood by‘Mr. Banks; aed
as) his: mafter of the ceremoniésy and :recesving ‘the branches, which«were brouglit at ‘fix: different <times, laid!:them down iin the: boat. -After'this'fome lange bundles of cloth 'were brought,:ico dof inine pieces, which being:divided into three ‘parcels, .oneiof the noe: called Oorattooa, pyre sper ae bé: nn principal, ftepping:upon one: em, pulied up ht Adah ae niga aa her wait, and then, ‘with an:air.of unaffected fimplicity, turned round three times. This Bare. ceremony
ye “
ola a Cian. a a. er) 7 , EN Phat Lag ic oo Seat
«RouND THE Worbpb.
be eeremony the tepeated, with fimilar cireumftances,.on
the ether two parcels.of cloth; and the whole bein
then. prefented, to; Mr. Banks, the ladies: went an faluted him ; in return for which:extraordinary favours, . he made them fuch prefents, as he thought would bet leafe them. In the evening the gentlemen of the ort were vilited by Oberea, and Otheorea, her fa- vourite female attendant, who was.a:very agreeable girl; and whom we were the more pleafed to fee, be- caufe it had been reported that fhe was either fick or
Oa the 13th Tubourai Tamaide offended Mr. Banks, by fnatching his gun.out of his hand, and firing it in the air; an action which alfo much furprized that gen- tleman; as he imagined him totally ignorant of the ufe of it. And asthe ignorance of the people of: thofe countries in regard to this particular, mutt always caufe them to-fear their guefts, Mr. Banks therefore made a fericus matter of what, probably, the other meant only. as a.joke, and, not without threats, gave him to
. underftand,, that for him but to touch the piece was a
high infult., The:offender made no. reply, but fet out immediately, with his family, for Eparre. Great.incon- venience being apprehended from this man, and as in ‘many inftances. he -had been particularly ufeful, Mr. Banks determined to follow him, He'fet out the fame ¢vening fromthe fort, accompanied by Mr. Molinenx; and fond him in the middle of a large circle of people, the picture of extreme grief, which was alfo. vilible in thecountenances of his attendants. One of the women exprefled ‘her trouble in the fame manner as Terapo
had done, upon another occafion... Mr. Banks loit no
. time in endeavouring, to put an end to all animofity,
aa
The chief was foothed into:confidence, and, a double canoe ‘being got ready, they all returned:together to- the:fort before fixpper: and as.a.pledge of fincere re« conciliation, ‘both he.and his wife pafied the night in the tentiof Mr. Banks. ‘That very night, notwithitand- ing their prefence, one of + natives attempted ee eihs | 2 the
68 Coox’s FrR8T VOYCAGE
the barricadoes of the fort; but, beitig difcovered by one pf our centinels, he ran away much fatter than any of our people could follow him. . The‘ temptation which caufed him to attempt what’ might have coft him his lite, ‘was, doubtlefs the iron and iron tools which were in ufe at the armourer's forge::incitements to theft which none of the Indians could refit. DF TH On ‘Sunday the 14th, in the morning divine fervice ‘was.performed at thefort; We hoped to have had the prefence of fome of the Indians, but: before the time fixed on for beginning the fervice, moft of them. were gone home. ‘Tubourai Tamaide and his wife were prefent, but though they behaved with mych decency, they made no enquiries with refpect'to the ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquifitive wpon their return. The day thus begun with acts of devotion; was con¢luded with thofe of lewdnefs exhibited among the natives by way of entertainment. Among the reft a young fellow lay publickly witha girlabout twelveyears ~ of age, in the prefence of many of dur people, andagreat number of the Indians, without the leaft fenfe of impro- pricty or indecency, Oberea, and fome women.of the urft rank in the country were fpectators, who even gave inftructions to the girl how to: perform her part, which, young as fhe was, feemed unneceflary. ‘On Monday the 15th, ‘T'ubourai Tamaide was de- tected: in having committed a theft. Mr: Banks had a good opinion of this chief, but, when his honef'y was put to the teft, a bafket of nails, lef€'in the corner of the: tent proved irrefiftible. He confeffed the face — of ‘having’ ftolen: four nails, but when. reftitution was demanded, Tamaide faid the nails were at Eparre, High words paffecl' pn the occafion, and, in the end, the [ncian produced one of the nails, and was to be for- _ given on reftoring the reft; but his virtue was not equal ' tothe tatk, and he withdrew himfelf, as ufual, when he had committed any offence. At this time our Jong- boat was fo much ¢atén with worms, that it was-found peceffary to give her'a new bottom, On ¢xaig ve wis : ° ; ™ the
aft
Rounp THE Woartp. ag
the pinnace, thinking fhe might be in the fame ftate; we had the fatisfaction to perceive, that not a worm had touched her. This difference in the condition of the two boats we attributed to the different ingredients with which their bottoms were paid; the long-boat had been paid with varnifh of pine, and the pinaace painted with white lead and oil; which laft coatin we think to be the moft eligible for the bottoms of boats intended for this part of the world. ' On the 24th, Mr. Hicks was fent to Tnotahah, who. had removed from Eparre to a place called Tettahah. The chief having fent feveral times to requeft a-wifit from the captain, promifing, at the fame time, that he would acknowledge the favour by a prefent of fome hogs, the bufinefs of Mr. Hicks was, to obtain, if poflible, the hogs, upon eafier terms than the required vilit. He was received in a friendly manner by. Tooe tahah, who, upon his arrival, produced one hog snl but promifed three more that were ata diftance the next morning. Mr. Hicks waited patiently till the ape pointed time; but: when the morning ‘came, "he: was obliged to depart with the fingle hog that had beenpre- fented to him. i On the 2sth, Mr. Banks feeing Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio at the tent for the firft time fince the former had been detected in ftealing the nails, he endeavoured to perfuade him to reftore them, . but«in. vain,. As our gentlemen. treated him with a referve and coolnefs which he could not but perceive, his ftay was fhort, and he departed in a very abrupt manner; nor could our furgeon the next morning perfuade: to. effect a reconciliation by bringing down the-mails. .. On the 27th, Mr, Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and fome others, {et out in the pinnace to vifit Tootahah, who had again removed to a place:called Atahourau, fix miles from his laft abode; and not be- ing able to go half way thither in a boat, it was almoft
evening before we arrived. We found the chief, ag
vfual, fitting ugder a tree with a great crowd about j 2 ; ‘ a him,
~
zo Cooxn’s FIRST VOYAGE
him. © Having niade our prefents in due form, con fifting of 2 y ftuff petticoat, and other trifling ar- ' ticles, we were invited to fupper, and to pafs the night there. Our party confifted of fix only; but the place wascrowded with a greater number than the houfes and canoes could contain. Among other guefts were Qberea with: her train of attendants. Mr. Banks having ac- cepted of a lodging in Oberea’s canoe, left his compa- nions in order to retire to reft; Oberea had the charge of his cloaths; but aotwithftanding her care, they were Stolen; 2s were alfo. his piftols, his powder horn, and feveral other things out of his waiftcoat pockets. An alarm was given to Tootahah, in the next canoe, who went with Oberea in fearch of. the thief, leaving Mr. Banks: with:only his breeches and waiftcoat on, and his: mnfket uncharged. They foon returned, but with- out fuccefs;: Mr: Banks thought proper to put up with the:lofs:at prefent, and retired:.a fecond time to.reft’s . juft as: he had compofed himfelf to fleep, he Was - rouzed by fome mufic, and obferved lights at-a little diftance from the fhore. He then rofe to go and find his companions, Ag foon as he approached the lights, he found the hut where Captain Cook and: three others of the gentlemen lay, when he began to relate his mif- adventure to them; they told him in return, thatithey had loft their ftockings and jackets. In. effect. Dr. So- lander, who‘joined them: the hext morning, was the only one that efcaped being robbed, and he had flept ’ gta houfe that was a mile diffant; This accident, how- ever, did not prevent Captain: Cook, Mr. Banks, and the: reft that were at: the hut,: from attending, to the mufic, which was a fort of concert called Heiva, and confifted of drums, flutes, and feveral voices.; They
retired ‘again to their repofe, after this entertainment
Wwasiover,/ « no Pte iw. thiatlesoe't - Dheir cloaths, and the other things which: had been ftolen, were. never heard of afterwards, but Mr. Banks got. 'fome ¢loaths from Oberea;: in: whichidie made.a whimfical.appearance, 29) ot A obo gal mer THe Ke | é n
Roune THE? WORLD. wt
On the 28th; we fet out for the boat, having: ob- tained only one hog, which had been intended for our fupper ‘the! preceding night ; fo that: all things con- idered, we had little reafon to be fatisfied with our exe curfion. On ovr return to the boat, ‘we! had .a dpecir men of the agility of the Indian fwimmers, fome ‘of whom, merely for diverfion, fwam in a furf where no European boat could have lived, and. where our. beft fwimmers muft have perifhed, had they accidentally fallen in. with it. | : ) vi OR
At this time the preparations:were:made for viewin the tranfit of Venus, and two ‘parties were. fent o to make obfervations from different fpots, that .in cafe of failing in one place they might facceed in-another. They employed Ives for fome time in preparing their inftruments, and inftrutting thofe gentlemen: who were to go out, in the ufe of them; and on Thurf- day the firft of June, they fent the long-boat with Mr, Gore, Mr. Monkhoufe (the two ‘obfervers) and ‘Mr. Sporing, ‘the ‘latter: of whom ‘was -a friend of Me. Banks, with proper -infirumients’to Emayo. : ‘Other were? fent to find outa’ fpot that ‘might anfwer the
_ purpofe, at a convenient’ diftance ‘from their principal
ld
ftation. » You? fh 3
The'party that went towards Emayo, after-rowing the greater part of the night, having ‘hailed a canoe, were informed of a place by the Indians on -board, which was judged-proper for their-ebfervatery, where they accordingly fixed their tents. It was a rock that’ Fofe: ‘out: ‘ofthe water about 140 yards from ‘thé fhore.. . stan [ented Hudon
- Saturday the 3d (the day of thetranfit) Mri ‘Banks, as fopn ag-it was light, left them, in orderto:go and # -freth provifions on theifland. “This gentlemanhad | ; fatistaction to fee the fun-rifé -without;a'cloud. The king, whofename was Tarrao, came to pay'him’a vifit, as he was trading with the natives, and brovght With» hint Nunachis fifter. As itwas euftomary’ for the people in thefe parts to be feated at their confer- is os lian ences, é
2% Coox’sS Frrst VoraGe
ences, Mr. Banks: fpread his tutban of Indian clothe, which he wore as. a hat, upon .the ground, on which they all fet down. ‘Then a hog and a-dog, fome cocoa- nuts, and bread-fruit were brought, being th¢ king’s prefent, and Mr. Banks fent for an adze, ‘3 fhirt, and fome beads, which. were prefented to his majefty, who veccived, them. with apparent fatisfaction. Tubourai Tamaide, and:Tomio, who had gone with Mr. Banks, tame from the obfervatory, when Tomio, who was faid to be related to Tarrao, gave him a long nail, and left a fhirt as a prefent for Nuna. Afterwards the king, his fifter, and three beautiful young women their at- fendants, returned with Mr. Banks to the obfervatory, where he fhewed them the tranfit of Venus, when that Planet was npon the fun, and acquainted them, that to ‘view it in that fituation was the canfe of his under- taking a voyage to thofe remoter parts. Acsopsing to this gentleman’s account, the produce of. this ifland is nearly the fame with that of Otaheite; the people alfo refembled thofe of that jfland: he had;{een many
of them upon it who were acquainted with the nature
of: trading articles. The parties that, were fent out to make their obfervations on the tranfit,, had. good fuc- eefs in the undertaking: though they differed rather more than might have been expected in their account of the contact. *) } 42 F J 1). 39 hy Ss
Mr. Green’s account was as follows:
The firft external contat + 9 25 "1
The firft internal contaét, or alt vebiriae Q ototal.emerfion .<. - 9.7 44 -4Jl The fecond internal conta, Nivorg devtgobe of beginning of theemers 2) is R fion + ey oomnog 14 8 es The fecond external contact, 3
‘oF totalemerfion « = -— 2.5 3a 10KP
an cloth, on which ne cocoa- h¢ king’s hirt, and fty, who l'ubouras ', Banks, was faid and left he king, their at- rvatory, hen that » that to ; under- rding to is. ifland | people n Many > nature
P out to
od. fuc-
| rather
iscount
Presley Season
1 1 $ a/ 1;
——— Lage scalp .—_
7 MAN f OTAHEITE, “ie 7 MOURNING DRES
Round THE Wor.LpD
Latitude of the obfervatory 17 deg. 29 min, 15 fec. fouth ;—longitude, 149 deg. 32 min. 30 fec. welt from Greenwich.
While the gentlemen and officers were bufied in viewing the tranfit, fome of the fhip’s company hav- ing broke into the ftore-room, took the liberty of fteal- ing a quantity of {pike-nails.. After a ftrict fearch the thief was found out; he had, however, but few of the nails in. his poffeflion, but he was ordered to receive two dozen of lafhes, by way of example. _
On the 4th, the two parties fent out to obferve the tranfit were abfent; on which account we deferre keeping his majefty’s birth-day to the next day, the 5th, when we celebrated the fame ; feveral of the Indian chiefs partook of our entertainment, and in turn drank his majefty’s health by the name of Kihiargo, the neareft imitation.they could produce of king George. © About this time.an old female of fome diftinétion = ing, gave the, Exnglifh an opportonity of obferving the ceremonies ufed by thefe iflanders in difpofing of thé dead bodies of their people; whith, as we hen ob: ferved, they do not directly bury. The reader has al- ready feen the defcription. of the bier, the placing the bread-fruit, &c¢. which, according to Tubourai Ta- maide’s account, was a kind of offering to their gods. In the front of the fquare fpace, a fort of ftile was placed where the relations of the deceafed ftood to give token of their grief. There were under the awning fome pieces of doth, whereon were the tears and blood of the mournet's, who ufed to wound themfelves with a fhark’s tooth upon thefe occafions. Four temporary houfes. were erected at a.fmall diftarice, in one of which remained fome of the relations of the deceafed the chief, mourner refided in another; and was dreffed in a’particular manner, in order to perform a certain. - geremony. . When the corpfe is rotten, the bones are buried. near the {pot, and thefe places were found to -anfwer.the purpofes of religious worthip, though Cap-
tain Wallis could not perceive the traces of any fuch wa. 3. . | KB worfhip
74 Cooxn’s First -VOYAGE
worfhip among them. Concerning the ceremony we are about to {peak of, the following is the account we have of it, which may not be unentertaining to the cu- rious reader. It was performed on the roth, and Mr, Banks was fo defirous of being prefent, that he agreed to take a part in it, when he was informed that he could not be a fpectator on any other condition. He went accordingly in the evening, to the place where the body was depofited, where he was met by the relations of the deceafed, and was afterwards joined by feveral other perfons. Tubourai Tamaide was the principal mourner,., whofe drefs was whimfical, though not altogether un- graceful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European refs, and had no other covering than a fmall piece of cloth that was tied round his midale; his body was blacked over with charcoal and water, as were the bo- dies of feveral others, and among them fome females, who were no more covered than himfelf. The procef- fion then began, and the chief mourner uttered. fome words which were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the body, and he repeated thefe words as he came up to his own houfe. ‘They afterwards went on, by permiffion, towards the fort. It is ufual for the relt of the Indians to fhun thefe proceffions as much as fe ee they accordingly ran into the woods in great afte, as foon as this came in view. From the fort. the mourners proceeded along the fhore, croffed the river, then entered the woods, paffing feveral houfes, which became immediately uninhabited, and during the reft of the proceffion, which continued for half an hour, not an Indian was vifible. - Mr. Banks filled an oflice that they called Niniveh, and there were two ' others in the fame character. When none of the other natives were to be feen, they approached the chief mourner, faying Imatata; then thofe who had aflifted’ at the ceremony bathed in the river, and refumed their former drefs. Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a principal part, and re- ceived applaufe from Tubourat Tamaide, the chief - Mourner, What can have introduced among thefe In-
y we nt we
ie Cue
1 Mr.
oreed
could
went
: body
of the
other
wer, er un-
opean ece of ly was fe be- males, wrocef= 1. fome 1en he yrds as 5s went or the uch as great e fort ed the noufes, turing alf an led an e two
RounD THE WorLpD. 75
dians fo ftrange a cuftom as that of expofing their dead . above ground, till the flefh is confumed by putrefac- tion, and then byrying the bones, it is perhaps impof- fible to guefs;-nor is it lefs difficult to determine, why the repofitories of their dead fhould be alfo places of worfhip.
On the 12th, the Indians having loft fome of their - bows and arrows, and ftrings.of plaited hair, a com- plaint was made to the captain. The affair was en- quired into, and the fact being well attefted, the of- fenders received each two dozen of lafhes. The fame day Tubourai Tamaide brought his bow and arrows, in order to decide a challenge of fhooting between himand Mr. Gore; but it appeared they had miftaken each other, Mr. Gore intending to difcharge his arrow ata mark, while the Indian meant only to try who could fhoot farthefl, The challenge was dropped in confe- quence of the miftake being difcovered; but Tubou- tai Tamaide, in order to difplay kis fkill, kneeling down, fhot an arrow, unfeathered (as they all are) near the fixth part of a mile, dropping the bow. the inftant the arrow was difcharged. Mr. Binks having this morning met feveral of the natives, and being in- formed, that a mufical entertainment was expected in the evening, he, and the reft of the Englifh gentle- men refolved to be prefent at the fame. They went accordingly, and heard a performance on drums and
~ flutes by a kind of itinerant muficians.. The drum-
mers fung to the mufic, and the Englifh were much furprized when they found that they were the fubject of their lays. The fongs they therefore concluded to be extemporary effufions, the rewards whereof were fuch neceflaries as they required, , On the 14th, in the night, an iron coal rake for the
oven was ftole; and many other things having at dif-
ferent times been conveyed away, Capt. Cook judged it of fome confe’ uence, to put an end, if poflible, to fuch practices, by making it their common intereft to prevent it. He had already given ftrict orders, that the centinels fhould not fire upon the Indians, even if K 2 they
76 Cook’s FIRST VOYAGE
they were detected in the fact; but many repeated de+ predations determined him to make reprizals. About twenty-feven of their double canoes with fails were juft arrived, containing cargoes of fith; ‘thefe the cap- tain feized, and then gave notice, that unlefs the rake, and all the other things that had been ftolen, were re+ turned, the veflels fhould be burnt. The menace pro- duced no other effect than the reftitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their poffeflion. The captain, however, thought fit to give up the car- gocs, as the innocent natives were in great diftrefs for want of them, and in order to prevent the confufion ‘arifing from difputes concerning the property of the different lots of goods which they had on -board. About this time another incident had nearly, notwith- itanding all our caution, embroiled us with the In- dians. The captain having fent a boat on fhore to get ballaft, the officer not meeting immediately with what he wanted, began to pull down one of the fepulchral manfions of the dead; which facrilegious act of vio- lence was immediately oppofed by the enraged iflanders. Intelligence of this difpute being received by Mr. Banks, he went to the place, and a reconciliation was {oon effected, which put an end to the difpute,. by fending the boat’s crew to the river’s fide, where a fuf ficient quantity of ftones were to be had without a pofs. fibility of giving offence. This was the only inftance in which they offered to oppofe us; and (except the affair of the fete; which has been related) the only in- fult offered to an individual, was, when Mr. Monk- houfe, the furgeon, took a flower from a tree which grew ir. one of their fepulchral inclofures: Upon this occafion, an Indian came fuddenly behind ...m and ftruck him; Mr. Monkhoufe laid hold of the affailant, but two of his countrymen refcued him, and then they all ran off as faft as they could. '
On the roth in the evening, while the canoes were flill detained, Oberea and feveral of her attendants paid usa vifit. She came from Tootahah’s palace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-
' ; fruit,
=d des {bout were e cap- rake, re re+ € pro- rake, effion. ie Care {fs for fufion of the board. twith- ne In- to get | what Ichral f vio- nders. y Mr. n was e,. by a fu a pois ance t the ly ine lonk- which this and ilant, they
were ants e, in ead- ruit,
feen.
Rounp tHe Wortp. uy
fruit, and other prefents, among which was a dogs but not a fingle article of the things that had been ftolen : thefe the faid had been taken away by her fa- vourite Obadee, whom {fhe had beaten and difmiffed. She feemed however confcious that her ftory did. not deferve credit, and appeared at firft much terrified 5 though fhe furmounted her fears with great foriitude, and was defirous of fleeping with her: attendants in Mr. Banks’s tent; but this being refufed, fhe was obliged to pafs the night in her canoe. A whole tribe of Indians would have flept in the ball tent, but were
"mot permitted. The next morning Oberea returned,
putting herfelf wholly in our power, when we accepted. of her prefents, which fhe doubtlefs thought, and juftly too, the moft effectual means to bring about a recon ciliation. Two of her attendants were very-afliduous in getting themfelves hufbands, in which they fucceed- ed, by means of the furgeon and one of the lieutenants: they feemed very agreeable till bed-time, and deter- mined to lie in Mr. Banks’s tent, which they accord- ingly did, till the furgeon having fome words with one of them Mr. Banks thruft her out, and fhe was follow; ed by the reft, except Otea-Tea, who cried fometime, and then he turned her out alfo. This had like to have become a ferious affair, a duel being talked of between, Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhoufe, but it was happily avoided. ‘We had been informed that in this ifland dogs were efteemed more delicate food than pork, as thofe bred by the natives to be eaten, fed en- trtely upon vegetables. The experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and drefs the dog, which he did, by making a hole in the ground, and baking jt. We all agreed it was a very good dith.
On the 21ft we were vifited by many of the natives, who brought with them various prefents. Among the reft was a chief, named Oamo, whom we had not yet He had a boy and a young woman with him. The former was carried on a man’s back, which we confidered as a piece of -ftate, for he was well able to walk. Oberea and fome of the Indians went from ~
the
78 Cookx’s First VOYAGE
the fort to meet them, being bareheaded, and un- covered as low as -the waift; circumftances we had noticed before, and judged them marks of refpect, which was ufually fhewn to perfons of high rank. When Oamo entered the tent, the young woman, though feemingly very curious, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him. The youth was introduced by Dr. Solander, but as foon as the Indians within faw him, they took care to have him very foon fent out. ‘Our curiofity being raifed by thefe circumftances, we made enquiry concerning the ftrangers, and were in- formed, that Oamo was the hufband of Oberea, but that by mutual confent they had been for a con- fiderable time feparated, and the boy and girl were their children. The former was called Terridiri: he was heir apparent to the fovereignty of the iflands, and when. he had attained the proper age, was to marry his fifter.. The prefent fovereign Outou, was a minor, and the fon of a prince, called Whappai. Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all. brothers; Whappai was the eldeft, and Oamo the fecond; wherefore Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri was heir to the fovercignty. To us it appeared fingular, that a boy fhould reign during the life of his father ; but in_the ifland of Otaheite, a boy fucceeds to his father’s autho- rity and title as foon as he is born ; but a regent being neceflary, that office, though elective, generally falls upon the father, who holds the reins of government till
_ | the child is of age. The reafon that the election had
fallen upon Tootahah was on account of his warlike exploits among his brethren. _Oamo was very inquifi- tive, afking a:‘number of queftions concerning the En- glifh, by which he appeared to be a man of under- {tanding and. penetration. At this time, a woman named ‘Teetee, who came from the weit of the ifland; prefented to the captain an elegant garment. .The © ground was a bright yellow, it was bordered with red, and there were feveral crofles in the middle of it, which they had probably learned from the French.
On the’ 23d in the morning, one of :our hands be- ; ing
nd un- es we -efpect, 1 rank. roman, evailed oduced in faw nt out. es, we ere in- a, but a con- re their he was is, and marry minor Fy happai, pal was happai to the a bo in. ae zutho- being
; be-
Rounp THE WorRtupD. 79
ing mifling, we enquired for him among the ‘natives, and were told he was at Eparre, Tootahah’s refidence in the wood, and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his yeturp le informed us, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top.of the bay by three men, who forced him into a canoe, after having {tripped him, and.con- ducted him to Eparre, where he received fome cloaths
_ from Tootahah, who.endeavoured to prevail on him
to continue there. We had reafon to conclude this; account true, forthe natives were no fooner acquainted with hisreturn, than they left the fort with precipitation.
On ‘June the ‘26th, early in the morning, Capt. Cook fetting out im’ the pinnace with Mr. Banks, failed to. the eaftward with a defign of circum-navigating the ifland. They went on fhore in the forenoon, in a dif- trict in the government of Ahio, a young chief, who, | at the tents had frequently been their vifitant,. And here alfo they faw feveral other natives whom ‘they knew. Afterwards they proceeded tothe harbour where, M. Bougainville’s veffel lay, when he.came to Otaheite,. and were fhewn the watering place, and the fpot, ° where he pitched his tent.
Coming to a large bay, when the Englifh gentlemen mentioned their defign of going to the other fide, their Indian guide, whofe name was Litubaola, faid he would, not accompany them, and: alfo endeavoured to diffuade. the captain and his people from going; obfervingy “© That country was inhabited by people who were not» fubject to Tootahah, and who would deftroy them, all.” Notwithftanding, they refolved to put their de-, fign in execution, loading their pieces with:ball; and, at laft Titubaola ventured to-go with them. Having. rowed till it was dark, they reached a narrow ifthmus: which fevered the ifland in two parts, and thefe formed:
* diflinét governments. However, as they had not yet:
got into the hoftile part of the country, it was thought: proper to go on fhoretofpend the night where Qoratova, the lady who had paid her compliments in fo extraor dinary a-spanner at the fort, provided them with afyp-
i per,
95 Covk’s First. VOYAGE
per, and they proceeded for the other governthent id, the morning. ‘They afterwards landed in the diftri& of a chief. called Maraitata, and his father was. called Pahairede. The former of thefe names fignifies the burying place of men, and the other the ftealer of :boats, Thefe people gave the captain a very good reception, fold them a hog for a hatchet, and furnifhed them with provifions. A crowd of the natives came round the En- glith gentlemen, amongft whom however they met only two with whom they were acquainted; but they faw feveral European commodities, yet they perceived none that came out of the Endeavour. Here they faw two- ‘twelve pound fhot, one of which had the king’s broad arrow upon it, yet the natives faid they had them. from M. Bougainville. They afterwards advanced till they reached that diftrict which was under the government of Waheatua, who had a fon: it was not known in whofe hands the fovereign power was depofited. There they: found ‘a fpacious plain with a river which they were oblived to pafs over in a canoe, though the Indians that followed them fwam over without any difficulty. They proceeded on their journey for a confiderable way along the fhore, till at lait they were met by the chief, who had with him an agreeable woman, of about twenty-two years of age, who was called Toudidde. , Her name was not unknown to the Englifh, who had often heard of it; and fhe was fuppofed to bear the fame rank here as Qberea bore in the other part of theifland. The parts through which they now paffled, appeared to be better cultivated than any of the reft, and the burial places were more in number. They were neat, and ornament- ed ‘with carvings ; and in one a cock was feen, whic: ‘was painted with the various colours of the bird. Though the country was apparently fertile, very little bread-fruit was to be found here, a nut called Ahee, furnifhing the principal fubfiftance of the inhabi« sants. $
. Being fatigued with their journey, they went on board their boat, and landed in the evening on anifland which wae called Otooarcite, to feek for refrelament. Mn
7g Banks
nt in iftiad. called es the boats. ption, 1 with 1e En- t only y faw | none
broad . from ll they nment whofe e they: y were ns that
They along
> who
Rounn gat Worind 8: Banks Qoirig into the woods for thig piirpofe, when it was dark could diftover only one houfe, wherein he found fome of the nuts before mentioned; and a little bread-fruit. There was a good harbour in the fouthern part of this illand, and the furrounding country ap- peared to be extremely fruitful. Landing dt about three miles diftance they found fome of tne natives whom they well knew, yet it was not without difficulty that they obtained. a few cocoa-nuts before they de- parted. When they came a little farther to the eaft- ward, they landed again, and here they were met by Mathiabo, the chief, with whom they were fot at all acquainted. He fupplied them with bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, and they purchafed a hog of him for a glafs bottle, which he chafe in preference to all the other articles prefented before him. A turkey-cock and a goofe were feen here, which were much admired by the
“ Natives, and were fuppofed to have been Jeft there by
Capt. Wallis’s people. They obferved in a houfe near the fame place feveral human jaw-bones, which feem- ed fref, and had not loft any of the teeth, and were faftened to‘a board, of a femicircular figure; but they could not get any information of the caufe of this ex- traordinary appearance.
When they left the place, the chief piloted them over the fhoals. In the evening they opened the bay on the north-weft fide of the ifland, which anfwered to that on the fouth-eait in fuch a manner as to inter- fect it at the ifthmus., Several canoes came off here; and fome ‘beautiful women giving tokens that they thould be: glad to fee thém on fhore, they readily ac- cepted the invitation.-—They met with a vei'y friendly reception from the chief whofe name was Wiverou, who gave directions to fome of his people to affift them in drefling their provifions, which were now very plen- tiful, and they fupped at Wiveroy’s houfé in company ‘with Mathnabo. Part cf the houfe ‘was allotted for them to fleep:in, and foon after fupper they retired to ett. Mathiqbo having bortowed 4 cloak of Mr. Banks, under ‘the notion of ‘ufing“it as a coverlet-when he lay
“No. 3 L down,
. $2 Coox’s FIRS% “OYAGE
down, made,off with it without being perceived. either by that gentleman or his companivns. However, news of the robbery being prefently brought them by one of the natives, they fet out in purfuit of Mathiabo, but had proceeded only a very little way before they were met by a. perfon bringing back the cloak which this chief had given up rather through fear than from any principle of honefty. On their return they found the oufe entirely deferted ; and, about four in the morn- ing, the centinel gave the alarm that the boat was miffing. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks were greatly aftonifhed at this account, and ran to the water-fide; but though it was a clear -ftar-light morning, no boat wasto.befeen. Their fituation was now extremely dif- agreeable. The party confifted of no more‘than four, having with them only one mufquet and two pocket piftols, without a {pare. ball or a charge of’ powder. After having remained fome time in a ftate of anxiety, arifing from thefe circumftances, of which they feared the Indians might take advantage, the boat which had been driven away by the tide, returned ; and Mr. Banks and his companions had no fooner breakfafted than they departed.. This place, is fituated on the north fide of Tiarrabou, the fouth eaft peninfula of the ifland, about’ five miles eaft from the ifthmus, with a harbour equal to any in thofe parts. It was fertile and | populous, and. the inhabitants. every where. behaved with great civility, Smid) ; The laft diftcict in Tiarrabou, in which they land- ed, was governed by a chief named Omoe. . He was then building a houfe, and was very earneft to pur- chafe a hatchet, but the .gentlemen had not one left. He would not.trade for nails, and they embarked, the chief, however, following them in his canoe with his wife. They were afterwards taken on board, but when they had failed about a league, defired to be put on fhore. Their requeft was complied with, when the captain met.with fome, of Omoe’s people, who brought with them.a.very large hog. The chief. agreed to ex- change the hog for an axe.and a nail, and to bring the : : Dealt
_ either +» News one of 0, but y were ch this m any ind the morne at was preatly T-fide 5 10 boat sly dif- n four, pocket owder. nxiety, feared ich had , Banks ‘d.than > north of the with a ile and © ehaved
y land-
was 0 pur- he left. ed, the ith his when put on en the ought to ex;
ng th Beat
_ work, which refembled a man in
Rounp THE WoRrtp. 83
beaft tothe fort. As the hog was a very fineone, Mr. Banks accepted the offer. They faw at this place one of the Indian Eatuas, a fort of image, made of wicker- gure; it was near feven feet in height, and was covered with black and wats feathers ; on the head were four protuberances, called by the natives Tata ete, that is, little men.
_ Having taken their leave of Omoe, the gentlemen fet
out on their return. They went on fhore again, after they had rowed a few miles, but faw nothing, except a fepulchral building, which was ornamented in an ex- traordinary manner. The pavement, on which was erected a pyramid, was very neat; at a fmall diftance there was a ftone image, very uncouthly carved, but
- which the natives feemed to hold in high eftimation, They paffed through the harbour, which was-the only
one fit for fhipping, on thefouth of Opoureonon, fituate about. five miles'to the weftward of the ifthmus, -be- tween two. {mall iflands, not far from the fhore, and
within a mile of each other. They were now near the
diftri& called Paparra, which was that where Oamo and Qberea governed, and where the travellers intended to {pend the night. But when Mr. Banks and his coms pany landed, about an hour before it was dark, it ap- peared they-were both fet out to pay them a vifit at the fort. However, they flept at Oberea’s houfe, which
-was neat, though not large, and of which there was no
inhabitant. but her‘father, who fhewed them’ much civility, 22820oT syasintempar hs
They took this opportunity of walking out upon 2 point upon which they: had obferved at'a diftance fome trees called Etoa, which ath grow upon the burial places“of thefe iflanders, They call thofe' burying
_ geounds Morai. And here Mr. Banks faw a vaft build-
ing, which he found to be the Morai ‘of Oamo and Oberea, which was the moft confiderable piece of ar- chite€ture in the ifland. It confifted of an enormous pile of ftone work, raifed in the form of ‘a pyramid, with a fight of ‘fteps on each fide. It was ‘near 270 feet long, about one third:as wide, ‘and'between 40 and
K 2 50 feet
84 Coox’s First Vorace
. go fect high. The foundation confifted of rock ftones the fteps were of coral, and the upper part was of yound pebbles, all of the fame fhape and fize. The rock and coral-ftones were fquared with the utmoft reattach and regularity, and the whole building ap- peared as compact and firm ag if it had been erected by the beft workmen in Europe. What yendered this Jatt circum{f.ance the more eptrqcrinney was the confide+ ration that when this pile was raifed, the Indians muft have been totally deftitute of iron tools, either ta fhape their ftones or for any other neceflary purpofe, nor had they mortgr to cement them when made fit for ufe; fa that a ftructure of fuch height and magnitude muft have been a work of infinite labour and fatigue. In the centre,of the fummit was the reprefentation of 3 bird, carved in. wood ; ‘lofe to. this was the figure of a. fith in-ftgne. ‘The pyramid conttituted part of one fide of a court or.{quare, the fides of which were nearly equal; and the whole was walled in, and paver| with flat ftones, notwithftanding which payement, {eyeral plan- tains, and trees which the natives cal] Etoa, grew with- in the inclofure. At a fmall diftance to the weltward of this ealigce was another paved {quare that contained feveral {mall ftages, called Ewattas by the natives ; which appeared to be altars, whereon they, placed the offerings to their gods. Mr. Bariks afterwards obferved whole hogs placed upon. thefe fhages or altars. ~ On Friday the 3oth, they arrived at Otahorou, where they found their old acquaintance Tootahah, who re- céived them with great civility, and provided them a good fypper, and convenient lodging ; and though they ad been fo, thamefully plundered the lalt time they flept with this chief, they fpent the night in the greatelt fecurity, none of their cloaths por any other article be- ing mifling the next-morning.. They returned to the fort.at Port Royal Harbour on the fir{t of July, having difcovered the illand, including hoth pentnfulas, to, be about 100 miles in circumference. ap ny agli
After their return rom this tour, they were ry
much in want of. bread-fruit,. sone of which nS a ae tse td Tha BN te eer we ee ee et a. ee ie hy pe esa een
Rounp THE WORLD. 8s
been able to provide themfelves with, as they.had feen but little in the courfe of their journey ; .but their In- dian friends coming round them, foon fupplied their want of provifions. 7 ) On the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excurfion, in order to trace the river up:the valley to its fource, and to.re- mark, how far the country was inhabited along the banks of it. He took fome Indian guides with him, and after having feen houfes for about fix miles, they came to one which was faid to be the laft that could be met with. The matter prefented them with cocoa- nuts and other fruits, and they proceeded on their walk, after a fhort ftay. They often paffed through vaults formed by rocky fragments in the courfe of their journey, in which, as they were told, benighted tra- nellers fometimes took fhelter. Purfuing the courfe of the river about fix miles farther, they found. it banked on both fides by rocks almoft 100 feet in height, and nearly perpendicular ; a way, however, might be traced up thefe precipices, along which their Indian. guides would have conducted them, but they declined the of- fer, as there did not appear to be any thing at the fummit which could repay.them for the toil and dan- gers of afcending it. Mr. Banks fought in vain for minerals among the rocks, which were naked almott. on all fides, but no mineral, fubftances were found. The ftones every where exhibited figns of having been burnt, which was-the cafe of all the ftones that were found while they ftaid at Otaheite, and both there and in the neighbouring iflands the traces of fire were eyi- dent in the clay upon the hills. On the 4th, a great quantity of the feeds of water-melons, oranges, limes, and. other plants, brought from Rio de Janeiro were planted on each fide of the fort, by Mr. Banks, who alfo plentifully fypplied the Indians with them, and planted many of them in the woods. Some-melons, the feeds of which had been fown on the firft arrival of the Englith at the ifland, grew up and flourithed before they leftit.. “ Hs By this time they began to think of making prepa- e ¥ ’ tas ® ‘rations
B6 Céon'’s F1RSTt VoraceE
rations to depart; but Oamo, Oberea, and their fon and it, eth vifited them before they were ready to fail. As to the:young woman pie name was Toimata) the wag. curious to fee the fort, but Oamo would not lig her to enter. The fon of Waheatua, chief of the fouth-eaft peninfula, was alfo here at the fame time: and they were favoured with the company of the Ifidian who had ‘been fo dextrous as to fteal the quadrant, as above related. ‘The carpenters being ordered to take down ‘the gates and palifadoes of the fort, to’ be con- verted into fire-wood for the Endeavour, one of the na- ‘tives ftole the ftaple and hook of the gate; he was pur- _ feed in vain, but the property was afterwards’ reco- vered, and returned to the owners by ‘T'ubourai Ta- ‘made. 3 Ay fig . Before theit departure, two circumftances epee which gave Capt. Cook fome uneafinefs.’ The firft was, that two foreign failors having been abroad,-oneé of them was robbed of ‘his:knife, which as he was en- deavouring to recover, he was dangeroufly hurt with a, ftone by the natives, and his companion alfo re- ceiyed a flight wound in the head. The offenders ‘eftaped, and the captain was not anxious to have them _ taken, as he*did not want to have any difputes with theIndians. 7 es -’ Betweeti‘ the 8th and 9th, two young marines one night withdrew themfelves from the fort, and in the morning were not to be.met with. Notice having been given the next day that the fhip would fail that or the ehfuing day; as they did not return, Capt. Cook began to be apprehenfive that they defigned to remain on fhore;" but. as he was apprifed’ in fuch a café no éffetual means could be taken to recover them without running a rifque of deftroying the harmony fubfifting ‘between the Englifh and the natives, he refolved to wait a day, in hopes of their returning of their own accord, But as they were ftill Sea fing he tenth in the morne ‘ing, an enquiry: was made after them, when the Indians declared, that they did not propofe to return, having ‘taken refuge among the’'movatains, where it was im- : poflible
cir fon rto fail. pimata) id not hief of ¢ time; Titian ant, as to take be con- the na- as ‘pur Is eel. rai. Ta-
ippened apa ad,-one was en- rt with alfo re- fenders e them es with
ies one in the g been or the began ain on afe no ithout bfifting 0 wait ccord, mornr ndians avait, as im-
oflible
derters it appeared, that the Indians had told the truth,
Rounp THE WoRLD. 87
poflible for them to be difcovered ; and added, that each of them had taken a wife. In confequence of this, it was intimated to feveral of