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PATENT 1881

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((SjYGILBERT MilMEFACTIlRINGCO.

26&28 BEDFORD ST. BOSTON

238 CHESTNUT ST PHIL^

This represents a section of a floor of one of the Pour Mills now making these celebrated Twills for Dress Lininrjs end Tailors^ Trimmings.

IMPROVED ROYAL, SATIN CLASSIQUE, SOVEREIGN, GROS GRAIN, SATIN

MERVEILLEUX, and nine other qualities.

Every Dealer, Every Dressmaker, and Every Consumer in the United States is using or should use these popular goods.

Owing to their popularity many attempts have been made to imitato them.

"We therefore would call your attention to the following ticket printed in red ink which will appear on every piece:— " BEWARE OF DECEPTION. On and

after tho 27th of December, 1882, all our Goods will bear the signature of the Company:

INSTRUCTIONS

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BASTING AND FITTING,

AS SET FORTH BY

MODEL WSIST LINING

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BLOOMINCDALE BROS.

3rd Avenue, Corner 56th St., New York.

Dry Goods, Suits, Wraps, Underwear, Milli'

nery. Hosiery, Cloves, Parasols, Jewelry,

Books, Stationery, Picture Frames,

House Furnishings, &c. &c.

We call jjarticular attention to our Fanc^ Goods, Lace, Embeoid- EEY, Trimming and Small "Wake Depaetments, they being the largest and most complete in the city.

Our collection of BUTTONS has no equal in or out of New York. Fringes, Gimps, Passementeeies, Beaids, Velyets and Eibbons matched in every possible color and style. Sewing, Knitting, Embeoidery and Frilling Silks in 2,000 Shades. We are direct importers of Zephyrs and Fancy Woek Mateeials. DRESS AND WAIST LININGS IN ALL GRADES. Dressmakers may rely upon finding every item they require and having their orders filled in the most perfect and advan- tageous manner. Our Catalogue, which is the most complete Shopping Guide sent OUT OF New York, mailed free to any address out of the city.

BLOOMINGDALE BROTHERS, 3rd Avenue corner 56th Street, New York.

PREFACE.

The following is a brief treatise on the art of dress-fitting, as practised in the past and present age ; the progress of which has long been seriously hindered by arbitrary and inaccurate systems and methods of cutting.

" The Moschcowitz Model Waist Lining " is an invention and an invaluable production, the result of years of patient thought and laborious mechanical experiment, founded upon our life-time experience in dress-making ; and destined to set aside and abso- lutely dispense with these false methods in cutting ; all of which have signally failed to guarantee a perfectly-fitting garment for the human figure.

Hitherto it has been generally supposed that the secret of success in dress-making consisted in the cutting: whereas "The Moschcowitz Model Waist Lining " demonstrates that the triumph of the art lies in fitting ; and in making the cutting in all cases subordinate to, and dependent upon a perfect fit.

This will be manifest when it is remembered that notwith- standing all that may be said of the divinity of the human form, and its perfect diversity : yet experience teaches that there are innumerable irregularities of figure which the best methods of cutting are unable to master. For example, take two forms registering the same measurement of bust, say 34 inches ; while in other respects these forms present an absolute contrast. One happens to be very full across the front and narrow across the back; while the other may recline forward, have a narrow chest, a round back, and large shoulder blades. It is evident that the one requires a garment having a broad front and a narrow back ; while the other requires a broad back and a narrow front.

But the divisions in cutting according to the systems which we

Ill

condemn are similar, because the bust measurement happens to be the same : yet it is evident that one of these figures requires a broad front and a narrow back; and the other a narrow front and a broad back.

The difficulties increase with other irregularities, which are not so easily detected by measurement; such as square or sloping shoulders ; but which, under the process of fitting, are made manifest by the garment after being basted, enabling the fitter to observe every irregularity, and to obtain a correct impression of the true form.

This will be still more apparent when it is remembered, that in fitting, the upper part of the waist is the only natural part of the form, according to which the impression is taken on that part of the garment ; while at the lower part of the waist, from under the arm downward, the fitting must be guided by the corset, the outline of which is generally different from that of the natural figure.

Systematic cutting by measurement, according to which the garment was completed without fitting, was very successful before corsets were worn; because, when the garment was put on, without a corset, any apparent tightness had control over the figure ; and where a fullness appeared it was naturally filled out, consequently the defects were not so obvious.

From a utilitarian standpoint and as an illustration of progress in the art of dress-making, we venture in anticipation to com- pare " The Model Waist Lining," in its practical results, with that extraordinary impetus which, not many years ago, as some of our readers may remember, was given to the clothing busi- ness by the appearance of ready-made garments.

When wearing apparel was first manufactured ready-made, and cut by measurement in all sizes, the patterns were very im- perfect, and it took years of experiment to improve them.

The difficulties to overcome may be imagined by the fact, that when one of these garments was worn by a person with a good figure, corresponding in bust measure to that of the gar- ment, it was found that its different parts were out o propor- tion with the corresponding parts of the figure. This experience convinced the manufacturers that patterns cut by this system of measurement were not a success. Subsequently, persons with well-proportioned figures were fitted ; and with suitable altera- ations, these figures were adapted to the various sizes, until generally correct impressions were secured in all sizes. These were finally used as the model patterns by which all ready-made wearing apparel, from underwear to dress suits, were manufac- tured : and thus purchasers were better suited in every size and style, while the garments themselves were always characterized by poor workmanship.

In Paris, where the fashions for all parts of the world are dictated, there is but one establishment which pretends to teach the art of cutting ; and that establishment is patronized by very few persons, because the Paris dressmakers pay more attention to fitting than to any of the perplexing systems of cutting. The reason for this general repudiation of these systems of cutting, is not merely that they are unsafe guides; but that the many new garments, which are constantly designed to meet the exigencies of taste, and the inexorable demands for change in the fashion of all kinds of dress, render them useless.

This passion for novelty, which seems one of the chief charac- teristics, and indeed, we may truly say, oneof the excellencies of fashionable taste, constitutes the art of fitting a necessity ; which being simplified, as in the case of "The Moschcowitz Model Waist Lining," must finally supersede all those formal and confusing systems of cutting.

In speaking thus of fashion, it will be seen that we are not in

agreement with that brilliant, but cynical essayist, Hazlitt, who describes it as the Alpha and Omega of " singularity and vulgarity:" nor do we believe as he says, that "it takes the firmest hold of weak, flimsy and narrow minds."

On the contrary, its history presents it as controlling the most brilliant and cultured intellects of every age and nation.

On such subjects Hazlitt was simply a satirical scold ; and not the less so, because his animus in this direction was characterized by genius.

It is our intention to publish a work on the history of dress and its fashions, in which we will be able to express our views more at large on this kindred topic. We now confine ourselves to setting forth the practical advantages to be derived from the general application and adoption of our "Model Waist Lining."

We are satisfied from long and practical experience, that it will accomplish what we claim for it ; and that it will meet all the requirements of variety in new designs : for the parts of every new garment must be fitted and arranged as intended by the designer, and the model waist-lining is designed to meet this necessity in fitting. Moreover, the perfect-fitting pattern, as produced on "The Model Waist Lining" will fit any figure; and with trifling alterations as herein directed, will be found capable of adaptation to every variety of deformity.

In making these needed alterations on ready-made garments^ they will first have to undergo the tedious process of ripping, before they can be fitted to the irregularities of the figure for which they are intended. These difficulties are all overcome, and a correct fit secured by the use of " The Moschcowitz Model Waist Lining."

iHElOSCHCOWITZMODELW/ISTLlttlNG.

A TRIUMPH OF THE ART OF DRESSMAKING.

SIMPLICITY, ECONOMY, EXCELLENCE ASSUKED. ANNOYANCE. EXTRAVAGANCE, DISCOMFORT OVERCOME.

This invention is a result of the concentrated experience of the most skilled and reputable artists in their profession. To mention its origin — the Moschcowitz Brothers — and to say item- bodies all that genius, research and culture could devise in this direction, is Ijo insure its acceptance as

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THE MODEL WAIST-LINING.

Its merits are so many that they can only become wholly known by a trial. It is enough to insure its popularity to say, that it obliterates old charts and paper patterns, makes all

7 mathematical divisions and measurements unnecessary, meets the emergency of securing a perfect fit for any deformity, has clearly printed upon its surface a practical and economical arrangement of the most correct pattern ever devised— with the parts (arranged with the grain of the web), distinctly designated and provided with cutting, basting and sewing lines, and indications where to join— and that while it puts within the hands of every lady so desiring, the means of securing an expeditious, graceful and perfect fit, it is yet obtainable at the mere cost of ordinary lining, and in all sizes and colors. Persons given to any irregu- larity of figure may find some trifling alterations necessary at the outset, but by the proper study, as herein recommended, and adjustment to whatever the irregularity may be, a satisfactory result cannot fail to be met by this lining, sooner than by any other known process.

So thoroughly does this great invention simplify the problem of waist-making, that one has but to obtain the correct bust measurement, and remembering it, as she does the size of her glove, she can always secure a perfect pattern by obtaining one of these linings corresponding to that measurement. Nothing more simple, economical or complete has been devised ; and, in addition to its saving time and money, it presents in a compact form a concentration of skill and experience, which secures the perfection of fitting not only to the dressmaker, but to the person whose means forbid the employment of an artist. It has the additional recommendation of being uninfluenced by any change of fashion, the waist proper of all tight-fitting garments, when cut by this lining, being always in keeping with the style.

As an additional benefit from the general introduction of this pattern, and the profiting by all classes, through the advantages it assures, the offer is made that to such as purchase a lining and return to M. Kaempfer, 299 Fifth Avenue, New York, the

coupon which bears the size, together with address, and amount of five cents and two cents for postage, a skirt or any pattern will be promptly forwarded; the price of the other patterns is ten cents.

The MoscHcowiTZ Model Waist Lining and the model patterns may be obtained of nearly all first-class dry-goods houses throughout the country.

At such establishments where this novelty was first intro- duced, a phenomenal demand was at once developed, as proof of its filling a want which has long called for professional skill and research, but which has never been artistically and com- pletely met until the introduction of this incomparable and only perfect-fitting pattern.

It embraces the best of all systems of dress cutting and making; it guarantees against waste of material; it provides against misfits; it systematizes cutting, basting and sewing; it is within the means of all; it commends itself to trial, and carries with its purchase the assurance that the consummation which every woman of pride and refinement has longed for, has at last been achieved.

This lining is produced with a lady's waist clearly printed thereon. Each separate part of the waist and sleeves is printed on the lining, and provided with a dash line for cutting, and a dotted line for sewing, also like numbers indicating where the parts are to be joined together. Seams Nos. i and 2, under the arms, are provided with broken dotted lines, indicating the odd number or the smaller size, as each lining is provided with two sizes, an even and an odd number, the even number being the larger size, as for instance, 31 and 32, which are the sizes that one lining contains. On all seams of the waist, large allowances provide for any letting out that may be re- quired. If a waist lining of a smaller size than required has

been purchased through a mistake of any kind, it will be found that the twelve seams around the waist will each permit of con- siderable letting out. For instance, if the small allowance of a quarter of an inch is made on the eleven seams on the double, and also the middle of the fronts, the waist will hereby already be enlarged to the amount of three inches; and, if necessary, the seams will permit of much more letting out. For a woman very large in front, the surplus pieces at each edge of the middle of the front may also be let out as necessary, and another strip of goods used for a lap and facing. The sleeves are not printed for a very long arm, and will permit of lengthening if necessary, by cutting the outside material the required length, and facing the bottom of the sleeve with suitable material.

It is particularly impressed that a correct measurement, for this or any other system, is the one thing essential to the secur- ing of a perfect fit ; and to obtain the required size, measure under the arms above bust (see picture), draw measure two inches tighter than dress is to fit — this number of inches is size of lining re- quired.

Should the first trial prove un- satisfactory, it may be relied on that the measurement is at fault, and trial being made in this direction until the proper measure is secured, the perfection of the lining will in all cases be sustained.

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING.

Cut each seam^fen the dash line, and at seam No. 3 of the side- shape toward the back, you will find a small projection toward the armhole, forming a surplus piece, which should be cut on the dash line as indicated. This surplus piece is provided, in

case seam No. 3 should require taking in, because without it the side shapes would be too short. The two fronts and backs of the waist are divided by a dash line running from the middle of the bottom of the front half, to the middle of the bottom of the back half, on which the cutting should be done, thus separating the parts.

FOR A PERSON WITH A VERY LONG WAIST allow much more than the seam allowance, at the joining of the front and back of the waist at the shoulders, also around the front and back of the neck.

FOR A PERSON WITH A SMALL NECK,

allow considerable around the front and back of the neck.

FOR A PERSON WITH LARGE HIPS, make a considerable allowance below the girdle, outside of the provided seam, at each joining part of seams Nos. i and 2.

In the following are the dimensions of each part of the model waist lining, for all the different sizes in which this lining is produced, the parts of which are designed for an ordinarily good figure. This information is given that ladies may compare their waist measurements (before cutting) to the corresponding parts of their required size lining, which is very essential for some figures, where these measurements differ, owing to a very long waist, small neck, or very large hips, for which provision may already be made in cutting the waist-lining, as above instructed, thereby saving time and difficulty in fitting.

All other methods of cutting garments are also arranged for well-proportioned figures; and in cutting a waist thereby, for a form with any irregularity, (the methods not being arranged systematically with the given dimensions of each part, as with the model lining), the fitter will have to contend with the loss of a great deal of time, and difficulty in making such alterations

in fitting, as are already provided for in cutting the model lining, thereby saving material, as well as time and labor.

THE DIMENSIONS OF EACH PART OF THE " MODEL WAIST- LINING" FOR ALL SIZES.

WIDTHS OF EACH PART.	LENGTHS, EACH PART.
I	2	3	4	5 6	7	8 9 10	II
Bust Measure.	ffi	0.	V u	a 2v		0	u 0 C3 u 1) g^	V a	'0 .	•S2o 53 •=
27 ) and - . . 28 \ 29 ) and - . . 30 ) 31 ) and ^ . . 32 ) 33 ) and - . . 34 ) 35 ) and - . . 36 ) 37 ) and - . . 38 ) 39 ) and - . . 40 ) 41 ) and ^ . . 42 ) 43 ) and S . . 44 )	19 20 20 21 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 30 31 32 33	39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 57 58 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56	10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 17	12 13 14 15 16 16 i6>^	10 10 II 12 13 14K H'A 15 I6K	II 13 14 15 15:^ 16 17 I7K	12K 14 15 is'A 16 16^	15 15 15 15 15 16 i(>y2	12 14 15 16 16 16 16 16	C 7 7K 8 7K 7 6K

DIRECTIONS AS TO WHICH SEAlftS TO BASTE, AND HOW TO BASTE THEM TOGETHER.

^t is important that the joining basting on tlie dotted lines is so done, that the lines on the two parts equally meet. Their evenness can be ascertained by placing the index finger of the left hand on the basting-thread of the under part, and running a needle through the upper part at the same point. Now com- mence with the front dart-seam (being assured that the lines are even), basting from the point downward. Then the second, and following by basting the front side-shape, to the front — matching Nos. i of each part. The fronts being finished, pro- ceed by basting the back to the side shape at the back, match- ing corresponding Nos. 3 together. In basting this seam it is necessary to proceed differently for different forms. For an ordinary figure, both pieces should be held evenly from the armhole downward. For one with slightly rounded shoulders, the back should be fulled in a little from an inch below the armhole, to about seven inches downward. For a hollow back, the back part must be held a little tighter than the side shape, at that distance. After the backs, follow the side-seams No. 2, joining the back with the front. Now, after the other side is similarly treated, join both halves of the waist together in the center of the back, by matching corres- ponding Nos. 4 together. This finished, the shoulder seams should be basted, which will be found shorter in front than at the back. Now the front part should be gently and uniformly stretched until both are even at the neck and armholes.

HOW TO PUT ON A GARMENT FOR FITTING.

Put the basted garment on wrong- side outward, with seams on the outside. Proceed by taking hold of the two fronts with the left hand at the hollow of the neck, securing both fronts

13

evenly in height and width, and with the right hand insert a pin perpendicular, to secure both guide lines at that point. Then proceed in like manner at the governing line, by taking hold of the two front edges, evening them in width and length, until you have secured the desired fit across the bust, then insert a pin perpendicularly at that point. Now, commence at the pin already inserted at the neck, pinning the fronts together on the guide line by inserting pins perpendicularly, about one-half inch apart, all the way down. Then proceed by smoothing the back and front of the garment, from the governing line down- wards, according to the requirements of the form, and if any fullness appears from the governing line upwards, both parts should be smoothed up to the shoulder-seam. The fitter should now take position according to rule A, and proceed by following directions for fitting different figures.

HOW TO TREAT A WAIST OR OTHER GARMENTS AFTER FITTING IF ALTERATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

If any changes have been made on the right half of the gar- ment in process of fitting, then the left half should be separated therefrom by ripping the seam at the middle of the back. Now separate the different parts of the left half of the waist, and place each separate part thereof smoothly on a table, the outside material upward. Before separating the parts of the right side of the garment, the horizontal pin line as placed at the girdle in fitting, should be indicated by a distinct marking line, indicat- ing also the pin lines as they were placed lengthwise in fitting at the seams for either letting out or taking in, as the case may be. After these indications have been made, remove the pins, and also separate the different parts of this half of the waist, placing them smoothly upon the corresponding parts of the left half of the garment — observing that the neck, armhole, and

14

points of darts have each an even adjustment on both sides, and placing the parts so that the old guide lines of the upper and lower shapes equally meet. Now the new line indicated on the parts of the right side of the garment should be traced through with a tracing wheel or some process that will correctly indicate it on the lower shapes of the left half of the garment — making sure that all cutting which has been done on the right side of the waist in process of fitting will correspondingly be done on the left.

HOW TQ FIT A WAIST CUT BY THE MODEL WAIST-LINING ON FIGURES WITH SLIGHT, OR OTHER IRREGULARITIES.

When the garment is put on and pinned evenly together in the middle of the front from the neck downward, the fitter should pay her first attention to the armholes, where the front sleeve seam, No. 5, is generally placed. It is here where in fitting a waist, or any other tight-fitting garment, a break is quite apt to occur; and it is to one of the following causes that these breaks are due. First, from the armholes being too small in width. Second, from the armholes being too small in length. Third, from the person you are fitting being too short waisted. There are two methods of remedying the first defect. One is to cut a little toward the front, under the arm, and to let out at the seams marked No. i.

An armhole should never be cut as required, until the last above-mentioned seam, No. i, is first ripped a little at the upper part to be let out if need be. To remedy break, in the second instance, which generally occurs through sloping shoulders, or short waists, where the side seams are in too high a position under the arms, there commence to slash, or cut in the surplus according to rule D, commencing from the front of the armhole, and deepening the slashes as you proceed under the arm. After

15

doing this, rip open the right shoulder seam, and by gently smoothing the front up at that point with the right hand, and the back with the 2eft hand from beneath the arm to the shoulder, that fault will be revealed. The upper part of the shoulder will then adjust itself to the shape of the figure, thus altering the previous shape of the neck as required — commencing from the front — cutting toward the shoulder seam, until the natural out- line of the neck is fitted. Should the neck of the person being fitted be long, however, it will be found necessary to let out from the shoulder seam at the neck, and take in the seam proportion- ately toward the tip of the shoulder. Now rip up the other shoulder, repeating in this the changes made in the one already cut, also moving the front up to the neck, in keeping with the other side of the waist. If a fullness of the middle line down the front is observed, as generally appears in this case, take in the fullness from the neck down according to the shape of the bosom, thereby forming a new front line for your guide in finishing. When a fullness appears at the middle of the back, it should in all cases be taken in gradually from the neck down- ward to the waist. The shoulders, front of armholes, neck, and front, being now fitted according to instructions, the fitter should turn her attention to the back; and if a fullness is observable at the back, side seam, No. 3, at the armhole, it should be gradually taken in as far as necessary, being careful that the other seam is not in the least disturbed in so doing. Now the right arm of the person being fitted should be raised so that the fitter can work the scissors comfortably in shaping the armhole under- neath, as close to the arm as seems requisite— being careful in so doing that the armhole is not cut too low under the arm, nor too high on the shoulder; however, at that point, the fitter should always be governed by the prevailing fashion.

i6

A HGURE, SHORT WAISTED.

When the waist is put on, and pinned together down the middle of the front, the fitter should give her first attention to the shoulder-seam on the right side, where she will find a hori- zontal fullness back, and front, from the governing line upwards. Second, give your attention to the girdle, where will be noticed at that portion of the waist, a mass of wrinkles, for two reasons; namely, a short waist and large hips. To remedy the first defect, should the waist be about four inches too long for the person, do not take up all the surplus on the shoulder, as this would move up the point of the darts, and side-shape No. 3 too high. Place the top of the darts to the proper height, press them against the figure with the right hand, and with the left hand take hold of the shoulder-seam on the double, and raise up the surplus from back, and front, securing the two parts at the middle of the shoulder with a pin pointing toward the arm. Then see that the side-shapes under the arm are raised up in accordance with the shortness of the figure, when you will notice on account of raising up the fullness as before mentioned, that the armhole is too high, which will cause a break horizontally under the arms, which should be slashed, or cut in at the armhole toward front and back, till no break is apparent at that point. Having secured a smoothness there, continue pinning the shoulder-seam toward the armhole, raise the arm of the person being fitted, and cut away all the surplus in order to conform to the proper shape, and size of the arm. The amount you have taken up on the shoulder will prove that the neck, back, and front, is much too high, which is to be corrected by slashing, or cutting in, as nec- essary. This being satisfactorily completed, commence from the front, and continue cutting around the neck until you have secured a snug fit. To remedy the second defect, rip up all the seams as high as wrinkles appear, until a smoothness is secured

^7

to form a new curve of the girdle. Sometimes the various shapes of the hips may require that one seam be let out, and the other taken in, being careful in taking in one seam, that the other is not at all disturbed. Before the removal of the garment from the person, place a row of pins horizontally around the waist, to indicate the outline at the depression of the waist at the girdle, thus preventing from placing the new curve higher on one part, than on the other. *

A FIGURE LONG WAISTED.

The basted waist should be put on, and pinned together evenly from the neck downward, when the fitter will notice that the waist being too short for the figure, the position of the darts, and side seam No. 3 will naturally be too high; also the curve of the waist, which will be found higher on that account than the figure calls for. To remedy the above in lengthening the waist, rip open both shoulder seams, take hold of the waist at the girdle back and front, and move it down until it adjusts itself to the girdle curve, and until the darts shall have rightly placed them- selves to the form. Then let out the seam allowance on the shoulder, which will serve to lengthen the waist.

FOR A FIGURE UNUSUALLY LONG WAISTED,

commence in fitting as above recommended, when on account of this unusual length of waist, care must be taken that the full lengthening of the waist is not done from the shoulder-seams alone, as the darts and seams (No. 3) would then naturally adjust themselves much below their proper position on the figure. Now, as the proper letting out of the shoulder seams will not prove sufficient in lengthening the waist, it will be found that the provided girdle of the waist will be in too high a position on this figure, on which account the meeting of the two guide lines in the middle of the front above the girdle will be prevented,

thus giving the waist from the girdle downward, the appearance of a flounce. To correct this shortness of waist, and fullness below girdle, as appears in fitting this irregularity, each seam should be ripped from the bottom upward to above the provided girdle curve. Now commence with the middle back seam, by- taking hold of the two joining parts of that seam at the provided girdle-curve, and with the right hand pinning in the surplus from there downward, by inserting pins perpendicularly, and about an inch apart.

In making this alteration, care must be taken that none of the surplus is drawn from the other seams, as that would create a drag, or wrinkles. In like manner, treat all the right side seams.

A FIGURE WITH LARGE BOSOMS, AND A VERY DEEP DE- PRESSION AT THE GIRDLE OF THE WAIST IN FRONT.

When the waist is put on and pinned evenly together in the middle of the front from the neck downward, the fitter will notice, owing to the above-mentioned deformity, a diagonal break appearing in the front, at the armhole, where sleeve-seam No. 5 is generally placed. Second, a lengthwise fullness at the girdle of the waist in front, giving the waist, at that point, a loose appearance. To remedy the first defect, rip open the right shoulder seam, and let the front adjust itself naturally to the form, when it will be found that the front will have a tendency to move upward. Then take hold of the front at that point at the shoulder with the thumb and index finger of the left hand, and smoothing up, join to the back-part by inserting a pin at the middle of the shoulder, taking in all that is required from the front in so doing. Then continue taking up the surplus of the front of the waist at the shoulder seam from the neck, towards the armhole, by inserting pins perpendicularly, and with points

19

downward. Now treat the left shoulder in the same manner, when you will notice, owing to the moving up of the fronts at the neck, a perpendicular fullness at the two joining fronts from the neck, which should be taken in according to shape of bosom, by taking hold of the surplus of both fronts at the neck, and inserting pins perpendicularly, point downwards as far as is necessary, thus forming a new guide line at that part of the front. This may not entirely remove the break, but in order to do so, seam No. i should be ripped all the way down — meanwhile securing the back against displacement. Then lift the arm of the figure high enough to permit your working with ease. Still holding the back firmly with the left hand, place your right hand over the bust, with the forefingers pointing toward the armhole, where sleeve-seam No. 5 is generally placed, pressing it to the body, and with the thumb removing the full- ness toward the back ; this will cause the front to take a down- ward movement, letting it dispose itself naturally to the form. Owing to this moving of the front, the curve of the waist will lower itself in proportion at that seam. On account of this change a considerable letting out at the girdle of the front joining of seam No. i will be required according to the demands of the figure; and should more than the seam allowance be re- quired at that seam, the difference must be made up from the next adjoining part, pinning the two parts together from the top downward in accordance with the shape of the figure. The moving down of the front has, of course, made a portion of the back too high; therefore from seam No. i a little must be cut under the arm, in the direction toward back-seam No. 3, until the armhole is sufficiently eased. To remedy the second in- stance, where the fullness in front is caused by the excessive depression at the waist, the fitter should take position facing the person, and commence by ripping up both darts. The dart-guide

line toward the front will now be rendered useless, as all the taking in must be done from the dart-joining part toward the front of the first dart — taking in all that is necessary for the de- pression, by taking hold of the two parts of that seam with the left hand, commencing at the point of the dart, and with the right hand inserting pins perpendicularly all the way down, making use of the provided guide-line at the back part of the seam in so doing, and forming a new guide-line at the front- joining part for the depression. Now treat the second dart as the first, removing all the fullness which appears between the second dart and side-seam No. i, at the girdle of the waist, in the same manner as the front-joining of the first dart, by making use of the provided guide-line at the front part of this seam, and taking in the surplus from the back part or joining toward side-seam No. i, thus forming a new guide-line for the inward and outward curves.

BREAKS DIAGONALLY AND HORIZONTALLY AROUND THE GIRDLE OF THE WAIST IN FRONT.

These breaks generally appear in fitting the waist on a person with a short waist in front, and large abdomen. To remedy these defects, all the dart seams should be ripped from the bottom as high up as the tightness appears; and the pins fastening the two guide lines in front should also be removed to that same height. After this is done, the fronts should be smoothed down, allowing the parts thereof to adjust themselves naturally to the form; this will cause the separation of the guide lines at the middle of the front, below the girdle. Now with the left hand, take hold of these two projecting parts in the middle of the front allowed for the lap, not pulling away, but pressing them toward the corset, and with the right hand pinning the parts together from the above remaining pin downward, letting out in so doing as

the figure may require. After this is done, pin the middle of the waist in front to the underwaist, or corset, to keep it in place, while making the necessary alterations on the other seams. Now commence with the first dart on the right side of the garment, by taking hold of the seam on the double with the left hand from as high as it is ripped, letting the seam out only from the dart joining toward the front, according to the requirements of the figure, and using the dart joining part toward the space between the two darts as a guide, in pinning the two joining parts together down to the bottom, being careful not to disturb the space between the two darts. The second dart should be treated in like manner, letting the seam out only from the dart joining toward the side, and using the dart joining toward the space between the two darts, as a guide in pinning the seam down to the bottom, letting out in so doing as the figure re- quires. For this figure, it is often found necessary to alter the position of the curve of the waist, which may be done by ripping side seam, No. i, from a little above the girdle of the waist downward, and making the alteration on that seam according to the requirements of the figure.

THE MOSCHCOWITZ MODEL LADIES' SKIRT PATTERN.

This skirt pattern is printed on paper in all sizes of waist, hip and skirt length measurements, so that any given or required size in width and length may be obtained from each pattern.

THE MOSCHCOWITZ MODEL CHILDREN'S SKIRT PATTERN,

FOR ALL CHILDREN'S SKIRTS BETWEEN THE AGES OF THREE AND NINE YEARS.

This skirt pattern is also printed on paper in all sizes, both in width and length, and consists of two parts, viz.: half of the

front width, and the back. Each size is marked with lines indicating where to cut, according to the required width and length.

MOSCHGOWITZ MODEL CHILDREN'S DRESS PATTERN.

FOR CHILDREN'S GARMENTS OF ALL KINDS AND IN

ALL SIZES.

These garments are all printed on paper in all sizes, and con- sist of five different parts, viz.: half of the front, a side shape, half of the back, and the upper and under parts of the sleeve. Each size is indicated by different lines, as follows:

3 years, ---- — _-_ 7 years, .. . ^ . ^ . __ . ^ 5 years, __..... _ r» yparc The indicated double lines,

The indicated block lines, ■■■■hmhmhhmmhhmm

on which the cutting is to be done. On each part of the pattern there are seams indicated by the double lines, as above, on which no alterations are to be made in cutting according to the different sizes for different garments. These double lines are indicated down the middle of the front half, and at seam (letter B) toward the back on the side shape, also at the same seam toward the side, and down the middle of the back half of the pattern, and also at the front seam of the upper and under halves of the sleeve. The block line, as above, on each part of the pattern indicates the basque and sacque length for all sizes. Each part of the pattern is indicated by letters, showing where the different parts are to be joined together.

This model pattern contains basque, jacket, walking-coat, and princess dress patterns.

The above mentioned patterns are only obtainable at the

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stated price, on receipt of the mentioned coupon — the price of which being otherwise twenty-five cents.

The following model patterns will be ready shortly, and are also obtainable as above stated : A pattern for half-fitting gar- ments, which will contain wrappers, jackets, cloaks, and ulsters in all sizes and lengths; a pattern for loose-fitting garments containing wrappers, breakfast jackets, dressing sacques, etc., in all