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LIBRARY Brigham Young University
131574
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from Brigham Young University
http://www.archive.org/details/memoirsofgeneralOOsher
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MEMOIRS
OF
GENEML WILLIAM T. SHEEMAN
BY HIMSELF.
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IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I.
NEW YORK : D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
549 AND 551 BROADWAY.
1875. .....
• . • •
Enteeed, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S75, by
D. APPLETON & COMPANY,
In the OflSce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
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mimm Sgung university
GENERAL W. T. SHERMAN
TO
HIS COMEADES IK AEMS,
YOLUNTEEES AND EEGULAES.
IS^EAELY ten years have passed since tlie close of tlie civil war in America, and yet no satisfactory history thereof is ac- cessible to the public ; nor should any be attempted until the Government has published, and placed within the reach of students, the abundant materials that are buried in the T^ar Department at Washington. These are in process of compila- tion ; but, at the rate of progress for the past ten years, it is probable that a new century will come before they are pub- lished and circulated, with full indexes to enable the historian to make a judicious selection of materials.
What is now offered is not designed as a history of the war, or even as a complete account of all the incidents in which the writer bore a part, but merely his recollection of events, cor- rected by a reference to his own memoranda, which may assist the future historian when he comes to describe the whole, and account for the motives and reasons which influenced some of the actors in the grand drama of war.
I trust a perusal of these pages will prove interesting to the
4 DEDICATION.
survivors, who have manifested so often their intense love of the " cause " which moved a nation to vindicate its own author- ity; and, equally so, to the rising generation, who therefrom may learn that a country and government such as ours are worth fighting for, and dying for, if need be.
If successful in this, I shall feel amply repaid for departing from the usage of military men, who seldom attempt to publish their own deeds, but rest content with simply contributing by their acts to the honor and glory of their country.
WILLIAM T. SHERMAN,
General,
St. Louis, Missouri, January 21, 1875.
I^ O TE
It Tvas my purpose to accompany this work -with detailed maps, of wliicli I have many that would be appropriate ; but the cost of engraving would be heavy, and I am aware that there is in course of preparation by the Engineer Department a series of war-maps, which will soon be issued, and which are far better than any I can offer. I therefore omit all, and be- lieve that each reader can follow the incidents of the narrative by the usual maps found in every library.
ooi^te:nts.
VOLUME I.
OHAP. PAG3
I. — Early Recollections of California — 1846-1848 .... 9
11. — Early Recollections of California {Continued) — 1849-1850 . 61
III. — Missouri, Louisiana, and California — 1850-1855 . . . .84
iy._CALIFORNIA— ISSS-ISSY 108
Y. — California, New York, and Kansas — 1857-1859 .... 134
VI.— Louisiana— 1859-1861 144
VII. — Missouri — April and May, 1861 166
VIII. — From the Battle of Bull Run to Paducah — Kentucky and Mis- souri—1861-1862 • . . 176
IX. — Battle of Shiloh — March and April, 1862 223
X. — Shiloh to Memphis — April to July, 1862 .... 248
XI. — Memphis to Arkansas Post — July, 1862, to January, 1863 . .265
XII. — ^ViCKSBURG — January to July, 1863 304
XIII. — Chattanooga and Knoxville — July to December, 1863 . . 344
XIV. — Meridian Campaign — January and February, 1864 . . . 387
8 CONTENTS.
VOLUME II.
CHAP. PAGE
XV. — Atlanta Campaign — Nashville and Chattanooga to Kenesaw —
March, April, and May, 1864 5
XVI. — Atlanta Campaign — Battles about Kenesaw Mountain — June,
1864 50
XVII. — Atlanta Campaign — Battles about Atlanta — July, 1864 . . 65
XVIII. — Capture of Atlanta — August and September, 1864 ... 96
XIX. — Atlanta and after — Pursuit of Hood — September and October,
1864 13T
XX. — The March to the Sea — From Atlanta to Savannah— Noyembf.r
AND December, 1864 171
XXI, — Savannah and Pocotaligo — December, 1864, and January, 1865 . 230
XXII. — Campaign op the Carolinas — February and March, 1865 . 268
XXIII. — End op the War — From Goldsboro' to Raleigh and Washing- ton— April and May, 1865 322
XXIV. — Conclusion — Military Lessons of the War .... 381
A Military Map, showing the Marches of the United States Forces under General Sherman's Command . ... At end of Volume.
{Inserted hy the Fitblishers.)
MEMOIRS
OF
GENEEAL WILLIAM T. SHEEMAN.
CHAPTEE I.
EAKLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA.
184:6-1848.
In the spring of 18-46 I was a first-lieutenant of Company G, Third Artillery, stationed at Fort Moultrie, South Carolina. The company was commanded by Captain Kobert Anderson; Henry B. Judd was the senior first-lieutenant, and I was the junior first-lieutenant, and George B. Ayres the second- lieutenant. Colonel "William Gates commanded the post and regiment, with First-Lieutenant William Austine as his ad- jutant. Two other companies were at the post, viz., Martin Burke's and E. D. Keyes's, and among the ofiieers were T. W. Sherman, Morris Miller, H. B. Field, William Churchill, Joseph Stewart, and Surgeon McLaren.
The country now known as Texas had been recently ac- quired, and war with Mexico was threatening. One of our companies (Bragg' s), with George H. Thomas, John F. Eeynolds, and Frank Thomas, had gone the year previous and was at that time with General Taylor's army at Corpus Christi, Texas.
In that year (1846) I received the regular detail for recruit- ing service, with orders to report to the general superintendent at Governor's Island, JSTew York; and accordingly left Fort Moultrie in the latter part of April, and reported to the super-
10 EARLY KECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
intendent, Colonel E. B. Mason, First Dragoons, at ^ew York, on the 1st day of May. I was assigned to the Pittsburg ren- dezvous, whither I proceeded and relieved Lieutenant Scott. Early in May I took up my quarters at the St. Charles Hotel, and entered upon the discharge of my duties. There w^as a regular recruiting-station already established, with a sergeant, corporal, and two or three men, Vv^ith a citizen physician. Dr. McDowell, to examine the recruits. The threatening war with Mexico made a demand for recruits, and I received authority to open another sub-rendezvous at Zanesville, Ohio, whither I took the sergeant and established him. This was very handy to me, as my home was at Lancaster, Ohio, only thirtj^-six miles off, so that I was thus enabled to visit my friends there quite often.
In the latter part of May, when at Wheeling, Virginia, on my way back from Zanesville to Pittsburg, I heard the first news of the battle of Palo Alto and Pesaca de la Palma, which occurred on the 8th and 9tli of May, and, in common wdth every- body else, felt intensely excited. That I should be on recruiting service, w^hen my comrades were actually fighting, w^as intolera- ble, and I hurried on to my post, Pittsburg. At that time the railroad did not extend west of the Alleghanies, and all journeys were made by stage-coaches. In this instance I traveled from Zanesville to Wheeling, thence to Washington (Pennsylvania), and thence to Pittsburg by stage-coach. On reaching Pittsburg I found many private letters ; one from Ord, then a first-lieu- tenant in Company P, Third Artillery, at Fort McHenry, Balti- more, saying that his company had just received orders for California, and asking me to apply for it. Without committing myself to that project, I wrote to the Adjutant-General, K. Jones, at Washington, D. C, asking him to consider me as an applicant for any active service, and saying that I would willingly forego the recruiting detail, which I w^ell knew plenty of others would jump at. Impatient to approach the scene of active operations, without authority (and I suppose wrongfully), I left my corporal in charge of the rendezvous, and took all the recruits I had made, about twenty-five, in a steamboat to Cin- cinnati, and turned them over to Major K C. McCrea, com-
lS46-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. H
manding at ISTewport Barracks. I then reported in Cincinnati, to the superintendent of the Western recruiting service, Colonel Fanning, an old officer with one arm, who inquired by what authority I had come away from my post. I argued that I took it for granted he wanted all the recruits he could get to forward to the army at Brownsville, Texas ; and did not knov/ but that he might want me to go along. Instead of appreciating my volunteer zeal, he cursed and swore at me for leaving my post w^ithout orders, and told me to go back to Pittsburg. I then asked for an order that would entitle me to transportation back, w^hich at first he emphatically refused, but at last he gave the order, and I returned to Pittsburg, all the way by stage, stopping again at Lancaster, where I attended the wedding of my school- mate Mike Effinger, and also visited my sub-rendezvous at Zanesville. P. S. Ewell, of my class, arrived to open a cavalry rendezvous, but, finding my depot there, he went on to Colum- bus, Ohio. Tom Jordan afterward was ordered to Zanesville, to take charge of that rendezvous, under the general War De- partment orders increasing the number of recruiting-stations. I reached Pittsburg late in June, and found the order relieving me from recruiting s'ervice, and detailing my classmate H. B. Field to my place. I w^as assigned to Company F, then under orders for California. By private letters from Lieutenant Ord, I heard that the company had already started from Fort McHenry for Governor's Island, INew York Harbor, to take passage for California in a naval transport. I worked all that night, made up my accounts current, and turned over the balance of cash to the citizen physician. Dr. McDowell ; and also closed my clothing and property returns, leaving blank receipts with the same gentleman for Field's signature, when he should get there, to be forwarded to the Department at Washington, and the duplicates to me. These I did not receive for more than a year. I remember that I got my orders about 8 p. m. one night, and took passage in the boat for Brownsville, the next morning traA^eled by stage from Brownsville to Cumberland, Maryland, and thence by cars to Baltimore, Philadelphia, and 'New York, in a great hurry lest the ship might sail without me. I found
12 EAKLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORMA. [1846-'48.
Company F at Governor's Island, Captain C. Q. Tompkins in command, Lieutenant E. O. C. Ord senior first-lieutenant, my- self junior first-lieutenant, Lucien Loeser and Charles Minor the second-lieutenants.
The company had been filled up to one hundred privates, twelve non-commissioned officers, and one ordnance sergeant (Layton), making one hundred and thirteen enlisted men and five officers. Dr. James L. Ord had been employed as acting assist- ant surgeon to accompany the expedition, and Lieutenant H. W, Halleck, of the engineers, was also to go along. The United States store-ship Lexington was then preparing at the IsTavy-Yard, Brooklyn, to carry us around Cape Horn to California. She was receiving on board the necessary stores for the long voyage, and for service after our arrival there. Lieutenant-Commander Theodorus Bailey was in command of the vessel. Lieutenant William H. Macomb executive officer, and Passed-Midshipmen Muse, Spotts, and J. W. A. Mcholson, were the w\atch-officers ; Wilson purser, and Abernethy surgeon. The latter was caterer of the mess, and we all made an advance of cash for him to lay in the necessary mess-stores. To enable us to prepare for so long a voyage and for an indefinite sojourn in that far-off coun- try, the War Department had authorized us to draw six months' pay in advance, which sum of money we invested in surplus clothing and such other things as seemed to us necessary. At last the ship was ready, and was towed down abreast, of Fort Columbus, where we were conveyed on board, and on the Ittth of July, 1846, we were towed to sea by a steam-tug, and cast ofi". Colonel B. B. Mason, still superintendent of the general recruit- ing service, accompanied us down the bay and out to sea, return- ing with the tug. A few other friends were of the party, but at last they left u&, and we were alone upon the sea, and the sailors were busy with the sails and ropes. The Lexington was an old ship, changed from a sloop-of-war to a store-ship, with an after- cabin, a " ward-room," and " between-decks." Li the cabin were Captains Bailey and Tompkins, with whom messed the purser, Wilson. Li the ward-room were all the other officers, two in each state-room ; and Minor, being an extra lieutenant, had to
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNLi. 13
sleep in a hammock slung in tlie ward-room. Ord and I roomed together; Ilalleck and Loeser and the others were scattered about. The men were arranged in bunks " between-decks," one set along the sides of the ship, and another, double tier, amid- ships. The crew were slung in hammocks well forward. Of these there were about fifty. We at once subdivided the com- pany into four squads, under the four lieutenants of the com- pany, and arranged with the naval officers that our men should serve on deck by squads, after the manner of their watches ; that the sailors should do all the work aloft, and the soldiers on deck.
On fair days we drilled our men at the manual, and generally kept them employed as much as possible, giving great attention to the police and cleanliness of their dress aiid bunks ; and so successful were we in this, that, though the voyage lasted nearly two hundred days, every man was able to leave the ship and march up the hill to the fort at Monterey, California, carrying his own knapsack and equipments.
The voyage from 'New York to Kio Janeiro was v/ithout accident or any thing to vary the usual monotony. We soon settled down to the humdrum of a long voyage, reading some, not much ; playing games, but never gambling ; and chiefly en- gaged in eating our meals regularly. In crossing the equator we had the usual visit of ISTeptune and his wife, who, with a large razor and a bucket of soapsuds, came over the sides and shaved some of the greenhorns ; but naval etiquette exempted the officers, and ^Neptune was not permitted to come aft of the mizzen-mast. At last, after sixty days of absolute monotony, the island of Kaza, o£E Kio Janeiro, was descried, and we slowly entered the harbor, passing a fort on our right hand, from which came a hail, in the Portuguese language, from a huge speaking- trumpet, and our officer of the deck answered back in gibberish, according to a well-understood custom of the place. Sugar-loaf Mountain, on the south of the entrance, is very remarkable and well named ; is almost conical, with a slight lean. The man-of- war anchorage is about ^ve miles inside the heads, directly in front of the city of Eio Janeiro. Words will not describe the beauty of this perfect harbor, nor the delightful feeling after a
li EAKLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [184G-'48.
long Yojage of its fragrant airs, and the entire contrast between all tilings there and what we had left in New York.
We found the United States frigate Columbia anchored there, and after the Lexington was properly moored, nearly all the of- ficers went on shore for sight-seeing and enjoyment. We landed at a wharf opposite which was a famous French restaurant, Fa- roux, and after ordering supper we all proceeded to the Rua da Oavador, where most of the shops w^ere, especially those for making feather flowers, as much to see the pretty girls as the flowers which they so skillfully made ; thence we went to the theatre, where, besides some opera, we ydtnessed the audience and saw the Emperor Dom Pedro, and his Empress, the daughter of Louis Philippe of France. After the theatre we went back to the restaurant, where we had an elegant supper, with fruits of every variety and excellence, such as we had never seen be- fore, or even knew the names of. Supper being over, we called for the bill, and it was rendered in French, with Brazilian cur- rency. It footed up some twenty-six thousand reis. The figures alarmed us, so we all put on the waiters' plate various coins in gold, which he took to the counter and returned the change, making the total about sixteen dollars. The millreis is about a dollar, but being a paper-money was at a discount, so as only to be worth about fifty-six cents in coin.
The Lexington remained in Pio about a week, during which we visited the Palace, a few miles in the country, also the Bo- tanic Gardens, a place of infinite interest, with its specimens of tropical fruits, spices, etc., etc., and indeed every place of note. The thing I best recall is a visit Halleck and I made to the Corcovado, a high mountain whence the water is conveyed for the supply of the city. "We started to take a walk, and passed along the aqueduct, which approaches the city by a series of arches ; thence up the point of the hill to a place known as the Madre^ or fountain, to which all the water that drips from the leaves is conducted by tile gutters, and is carried to the city by an open stone aqueduct.
Here we found Mr. Henry A. Wise, of Virginia, the United States minister to Brazil, and a Dr. Garnett, United States
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTION'S OF CALIFORNIA. 15
!N"avy, liis intended son-in-law. We had a very interesting con- versation, in whicli Mr. Wise enlarged on the fact that Rio was supplied from the " dews of heaven," for it rarely rains there, and the water comes from the mists and fogs which hang around the Corcovado^ drips from tlie leaves of the trees, and is con- ducted to the Madre fountain by miles of tile gutters. Ilalleek and I continued our ascent of the mountain, catching from points of the way magnificent views of the scenery round about Eio Janeiro. We reached near the summit what was called the emperor's coffee-plantation, where we saw coffee-berries in their various stao-es, and the scaffolds on which the berries Vv^ere dried before being cleaned. The coffee-tree reminded me of the red haw-tree of Ohio, and the berries were somewhat like those of the same tree, two grains of coffee being inclosed in one berry. These were dried and cleaned of the husk by hand or by ma- chinery. A short, steep ascent from this place carried us to the summit, from which is beheld one of the most picturesque views on earth. The Organ Mountains to the west and north, the ocean to the east, the city of Rio with its red-tiled houses at our feet, and the entire harbor like a map spread out, with innumer- able bright valleys, make up a landscape that cannot be described by mere words. This spot is universally visited by strangers, and has often been described. After enjoying it immeasurably, we returned to the city by another route, tired but amply repaid by our long walk.
In due time all had been done that was requisite, and the Lexington put to sea and resumed her voyage. In October we approached Cape Horn, the first land descried was Stat en Isl- and, white with snow, and the ship seemed to be aiming for the channel to its west, straits of Le'Maire, but her course was changed and we passed around to the east. In time we saw Cape Horn; an island rounded like an oven, after which it takes its name {Ornos) oven. Here we experienced very rough weather, buffeting about under storm stay-sails, and spending nearly a month before the wind favored our passage and enabled the course of the ship to be changed for Valparaiso. One day we sailed parallel with a French sloop-of-war, and it was sublime
10 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
to watcli the two ships rising and falling in those long deep swells of the ocean. All the time we were followed by the usual large flocks of Cape-pigeons and albatrosses of every color. The former resembled the common barn-pigeon exactly, but are in fact gnlls of beautiful and varied colors, mostly dove-color. We caught many with fishing-lines baited with pork. We also took in the same way many albatrosses. The white ones are very large, and their down is equal to that of the swan. At last Cape Horn and its swelling seas were left behind, and we reached Valparaiso in about sixty days from Kio. We anchored in the open roadstead, and spent there about ten days, visiting all the usual places of interest, its f oretop, main-top, mizzen-top, etc. Halleck and Ord went up to Santiago, the capital of Chili, some sixty miles inland, but I did not go. Valparaiso did not impress me favorably at all. Seen from the sea, it looked like a long string of houses along the narrow beach, surmounted with red banks of earth, with little verdure, and no trees at all. ITorthward the space widened out somewhat, and gave room for a plaza, but the mass of houses in that quarter were poor. We were there in November, corresponding to our early spring, and we enjoyed the large strawberries which abounded. The Inde- pendence frigate. Commodore Shubrick, came in while we were there, having overtaken us, bound also for California. We met there also the sloop-of-war Levant, from California, and from the officers heard of many of the events that had transpired about the time the navy, under Commodore Sloat, had taken possession of the country.
All the necessary supplies being renewed in Valparaiso, the voyage was resumed. For nearly forty days we had uninterrupted favorable winds, being in the " trades," and, having settled down to sailor habits, time passed without notice. We had brought with us all the books we could find in "New York about Califor- nia, and had read them over and over again : Wilkes's " Explor- ing Expedition ; " Dana's " Two Years before the Mast ; " and Forbes' s " Account of the Missions." It was generally under- stood we were bound for Monterey, then the capital of Upper California. We knew, of com-se, that General Kearney was en
1846-'48.] EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 17
route for tlie same conntry overland ; tliat Fremont was tliere with his exploring party ; that the navy had already taken pos session, and that a regiment of volunteers, Stevenson's-, was to follow us from I^ew York ; but nevertheless we were impatient to reach our destination. About the middle of January the ship began to approach the California coast, of which the captain was duly cautious, because the English and Spanish charts dif- fered some fifteen miles in the longitude, and on all the charts a current of two miles an hour was indicated northward along the coast. At last land was made one morning, and here occurred one of those accidents so provoking after a long and tedious voyage. Macomb, the master and regular navigator, had made the correct observations, but Nicholson during the night, by an observation on the north star, put the ship some twenty miles farther south than was the case by the regular reckoning, so that Captain Bailey gave directions to alter the course of the ship more to the north, and to follow the coast up, and to keep a good lookout for Point Pinos that marks the location of Monterey Bay. The usual north wind slackened, so that when noon allowed Macomb to get a good observation, it was found that we were north of Aiio JSTuevo, the northern headland of Monterey Bay. The ship was put about, but little by little arose one of those southeast storms so common on the coast in winter, and we buffeted about for several days, cursing that unfortunate observation on the north star, for, on first sighting the coast, had we turned for Monterey, instead of away to the north, we would have been snugly anchored before the storm. But the southeaster abated, and the usual northwest wind came out again, and we sailed steadily down into the roadstead of Monterey Bay. This is shaped somewhat like a fish-hook, the barb being the harbor, the point being Point Pinos, the southern headland. Slowly the land came out of the water, the high mountains about Santa Cruz, the low beach of the Salinas, and the strongly-marked ridge terminating in the sea in a point of dark pine-trees. Then the line of whitewashed houses of adobe, backed by the groves of dark oaks, resembling old apple-trees ; and then we saw two vessels anchored close to 2'
18 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
the town. One was a small merchant-brig and another a large ship apparently dismasted. At last we saw a boat coming out to meet us, and when it came alongside, we were surprised to find Lieutenant Henry Wise, master of the Independence frigate, that we had left at Valparaiso. Wise had come off to pilot us to our anchorage. While giving orders to the man at the wheel, he, in his peculiar fluent style, told to us, gathered about him, that the Independence had sailed from Valparaiso a week after us and had been in Monterey a week ; that the Cali- fornians had broken out into an insurrection; that the naval fleet under Commodore Stockton was all down the coast about San Diego ; that General Kearney had reached the country, but had had a severe battle at San Pascual, and had been worsted, losing several officers and men, himself and others wounded ; that war was then going on at Los Angeles ; that the whole country was full of guerrillas, and that recently at Yerba Buena the alcalde. Lieutenant Bartlett, United States Navy, while out after cattle, had been lassoed, etc., etc. Indeed, in the short space of time that Wise was piloting our ship in, he told us more news than we could have learned on shore in a week, and, being unfamiliar with the great distances, we imagined that we should have to debark and begin fighting at once. Swords were brought out, guns oiled and made ready, and every thing was in a bustle when the old Lexington dropped her anchor on January 26, 1847, in Monterey Bay, after a voyage of one hundred and ninety-eight days from New York. Every thing on shore looked bright and beautiful, the hills covered with grass and flowers, the live-oaks so serene and homelike, and the low adobe houses, with red-tiled roofs and whitened walls, contrasted well with the dark pine-trees behind, making a decidedly good im- pression upon us who had come so far to spy out the land. Nothing could be more peaceful in its looks than Monterey in January, 1847. We had already made the acquaintance of Com- modore Shubrick and the officers of the Independence in Val- paraiso, so that we again met as old friends. Immediate prep- arations were made for landing, and, as I was quartermaster and commissary, I had plenty to do. There was a small wharf and
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 19
an adobe custom-liouse in possession of the navy ; also a bar- rack of two stories, occupied by some marines, commanded by Lieutenant Maddox ; and on a hill to the west of the town had been built a two-story block-house of hewed logs occupied by a guard of sailors under command of Lieutenant Baldwin, United States Kavy. l^ot a single modern wagon or cart was to be had in Monterey, nothing but the old Mexican cart with wooden wheels, drawn by two or three pairs of oxen, yoked by the horns. A man named Tom Cole had two or more of these, and he came into immediate requisition. The United States consul, and most prominent man there at the time, was Thomas O. Larkin, who had a store and a pretty good two-story house occupied by his family. It was soon determined that our com- pany was to land and encamp on the hill at the block-house, and we were also to have possession of the warehouse, or custom-house, for storage. The company was landed on the wharf, and we all marched in full dress with knapsacks and arms, to the hill and relieved the guard under Lieutenant Bald- win. Tents and camp-equipage were hauled up, and soon the camp was established. I remained in a room at the custom- house, where I could superintend the landing of the stores and their proper distribution. I had brought out from ITew York twenty thousand dollars commissary funds, and eight thousand dollars quartermaster funds, and as the ship contained about six months' supply of provisions, also a saw-mill, grist-mill, and almost every thing needed, we w^ere soon established comfort- ably. We found the people of Monterey a mixed set of Ameri- cans, native Mexicans, and Indians, about one thousand all told. They were kind and pleasant, and seemed to have noth- ing to do, except such as owned ranches in the country for the rearing of horses and cattle. Horses could be bought at any price from four dollars up to sixteen, but no horse w^as ever valued above a doubloon or Mexican ounce (sixteen dollars). Cattle cost eight dollars fifty cents for the best, and this made beef net about two cents a pound, but at that time nobody bought beef by tlie pound, but by the carcass.
Game of all kinds — elk, deer, wild geese, and ducks — was
20 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORmA. [1846-'48.
abundant ; but coffee, sugar, and small stores, were rare and costly.
There were some half -dozen sliops or stores, but tbeir shelves were empty. The people were very fond of riding, dancing, and of shows of any kind. The young fellows took great de- light in showing off their horsemanship, and would dash along, picking up a half-dollar from the ground, stop their horses in full career and turn about on the space of a bullock's hide, and their skill with the lasso was certainly wonderful. At full speed they could cast their lasso about the horns of a bull, or so throw it as to catch any particular foot. These fellows would work all day on horseback in driving cattle or catching wild- horses for a mere nothing, but all the money offered would not have hired one of them to walk a mile. The girls were very fond of dancing, and they did dance gracefully and well. Every Sunday, regularly, we had a 'baile^ or dance, and sometimes in- terspersed through the week.
I remember very well, soon after our arrival, that we were all invited to witness a play called " Adam and Eve." Eve was personated by a pretty young girl known as Dolores Gomez, who, however, was dressed very unlike Eve, for she was covered with a petticoat and spangles. Adam was personated by her brother
, the same who has since become somewhat famous as
the person on whom is founded the McGarrahan claim. God Almighty was personated, and heaven's occupants seemed very human. Yet the play was pretty, interesting, and elicited uni- versal applause. All the month of February we were by day pre- paring for our long stay in the country, and at night making the most of the balls and parties of the most primitive kind, picking up a smattering of Spanish, and extending our acquaintance with the people and the costunibres del jpais. I can well recall that Ord and I, impatient to look inland, got permission and started for the Mission of San Juan Bautista. Mounted on horses, and with our carbines, we took the road by El Toro, quite a prominent hill, around which passes the road to the south, following the Salinas or Monterey Kiver. After about twenty miles over a sandy country covered with oak-bushes and scrub,
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 21
we entered quite a pretty valley in which there was a ranch at the foot of the Toro. Kesting there a while and getting some in- formation, we again started in the direction of a mountain to the north of the Salinas, called the Gavillano. It was quite dark when we reached the Salinas Kiver, which we attempted to pass at several points, but found it full of water, and the quicksands were bad. Hearing the bark of a dog, we changed our course in that direction, and, on hailing, were answered by voices which directed us where to cross. Our knowledge of the lan- guage was limited, but we managed to understand, and to flounder through the sand and water, and reached a small adobe-house on the banks of the Salinas, where we spent the night. The house was a single room, without floor or glass; only a rude door, and window with bars. Kot a particle of food but meat, yet the man and woman entertained us with the language of lords, put themselves, their house, and every thing, at our " disposi- tion," and made little barefoot children dance for our entertain- ment. We made our supper of beef, and slept on a bullock's hide on the dirt-floor. In the morning we crossed the Salinas Plain, about fifteen miles of level ground, taking a shot occa- sionally at wild-geese, which abounded there, and entering the well-wooded valley that comes out from the foot of the Gavil- lano. "We had cruised about all day, and it was almost dark when we reached the house of a Seiior Gomez, father of those who at Monterey had performed the parts of Adam and Eve. His house was a two-story adobe, and had a fence in front. It was situated well up among the foot-hills of the Gavillano, and could not be seen until within a few yards. We hitched our horses to the fence and went in just as Gomez was about to sit down to a tempting supper of stewed hare and tortillas. We were officers and cahalleros and could not be ignored. After turning our horses to grass, at his invitation we joined him at supper. The allowance, though ample for one, was rather short for three, and I thought the Spanish grandiloquent politeness of Gomez, who was fat and old, was not over-cordial. How- ever, down we sat, and I was helped to a dish of rabbit, with what I thought to be an abundant sauce of tomato. Taking a
22 EAELY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846~'48.
good mouthful, I felt as tliougli I had taken liquid fire ; the tomato was chile Colorado^ or red pepper, of the purest kind. It nearly killed me, and I saw Gomez's eyes twinkle, for he saw that his share of supper was increased. I contented myself with bits of the meat, and an abundant supply of tortillas. Ord was better case-hardened, and stood it better. "VYe staid at Gomez's that night, sleeping, as all did, on the ground, and the next morning we crossed the hill by the bridle-path to the old Mission of San Juan Bautista. The Mission was in a beautiful valley, very level, and bounded on all sides by hills. The plain was covered with wild-grasses and mustard, and had abundant water. Cattle and horses were seen in all directions, and it was manifest that the priests who first occupied the country were good judges of land. It was Sunday, and all the people, about a himdred, had come to church from the country round about. Ord was somewhat of a Catholic, and entered the church with his clanking spurs and kneeled down, attracting the attention of all, for he had on the uniform of an American officer. As soon as church was out, all rushed to the various sports. I saw the priest, with his gray robes tucked up, playing at billiards, others were cock-fighting, and some at horse-racing. My horse had become lame, and I resolved to buy another. As soon as it was known that I wanted a horse, several came for me, and displayed their horses by dashing past and hauling them up short. There was a fine black stallion that attracted my notice, and, after trying him myself, I concluded a purchase. I left with the seller my own lame horse, which he was to bring to me at Mon- terey, when I was to pay him ten dollars for the other. The Mission of San Juan bore the marks of high prosperity at a for- mer period, and had a good pear-orchard just under the plateau where stood the church. After spending the day, Ord and I returned to Monterey, about thirty-five miles, by a shorter route. Thus passed the month of February, and, though there were no mails or regular expresses, we heard occasionally from Yerba Buena and Sutter's Fort to the north, and from the army and navy about Los Angeles at the south. We also knew that a quarrel had grown up at Los Angeles, between General Kearney,
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 23
Colonel Fremont, and Commodore Stockton, as to tlie right to control affairs in California. Kearney had with him only the fragments of the two companies of dragoons, which had come across from 'New Mexico with him, and had been handled very roughly by Don Andreas Pico, at San Pascnal, in which en- gagement Captains Moore and Johnson, and Lieutenant Ham- mond, were killed, and Kearney himself wounded. There re- mained with him Colonel Swords, quartermaster ; Captain H. S. Turner, First Dragoons; Captains Emory and Warner, Topo- graphical Engineers ; Assistant Surgeon Griffin, and Lieutenant J. W. Davidson. Fremont had marched down from the north with a battalion of volunteers; Commodore Stockton had marched up from San Diego to Los Angeles, with General Kearney, his dragoons, and a bgittalion of sailors and marines, and was soon joined there by Fremont, and they jointly received the surrender of the insurgents under Andreas Pico. We also knew that General P. B." Mason had been ordered to California ; that Colonel John D. Stevenson was coming out to California with a regiment of New York Yolunteers ; that Commodore Shubrick had orders also from the Navy Department to control matters afloat ; that General Kearney, by virtue of his rank, had the right to control all the land-forces in the service of the United States ; and that Fremont claimed the same right by virtue of a letter he had received from Colonel Benton, then a Senator, and a man of great influence with Polk's Administration. So that among the younger officers the query was very natural, " Who the devil is Governor of California ? " One day I was on board the Independence frigate, dining with the ward-room officers, when a war-vessel was reported in the offing, which in due time was made out to be the Cyane, Captain DuPont. After dinner, we were all on deck, to watch the new arrival, the ships meanwhile exchanging signals, which were interpreted that General Kearney was on board. As the Cyane approached, a boat was sent to meet her, with Commodore Shubrick's flag-officer. Lieutenant Lewis, to carry the usual messages, and to invite General Kearney to come on board the Independence as the guest of Commodore Shubrick. Quite a number of officers were on deck, among them
21 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFOROTA, [1846-'48.
Lieutenants Wise, Montgomery Lewis, William Chapman, and others, noted wits and wags of the navy. In due time the Cyane anchored close by, and our boat was seen returning with a stran- ger in the stern-sheets, clothed in army-blue. As the boat came nearer, we saw that it was General Kearney with an old dragoon coat on, and an army-cap, to which the general had added the broad visor, cut from a full-dress hat, to shade his face and eyes against the glaring sun of the Grila region. Chapman ex- claimed : " Fellows, the problem is solved ; there is the grand- vizier (visor) by G — d ! lie is Governor of California."
All hands received the general with great heartiness, and he soon passed out of our sight into the commodore's cabin. Be- tween Commodore Shubrick and General Kearney existed from that time forward the greatest harmony and good feeling, and no further trouble existed as to the controlling power on the Pa- cific coast. General Kearney had dispatched from San Diego Lis quartermaster. Colonel Swords, to the Sandwich Islands, to purchase clothing and stores for his men, and had come up to Monterey, bringing with him Turner and Warner, leaving Emory and the company of dragoons below. He was delighted to find a full strong company of artillery, subject to his orders, well supplied with clothing and money in all respects, and, much to the disgust of our Captain Tompkins, he took half of his com- pany clothing and part of the money held by me for the relief of his worn-out and almost naked dragoons left behind at Los Angeles. In a few days he moved on shore, took up his quarters at Larkin's house, and established his headquarters, with Captain Tm-ner as his adjutant-general. One day Turner and Warner were at my tent, and, seeing a store-box full of socks, drawers, and calico shirts, of which I had laid in a three years' supply, and of which they had none, made known to me their wants, and I told them to help themselves, which Turner and Warner did. The latter, however, insisted on paying me the cost, and from that date to this Turner and I have been close friends. Warner, poor fellow, was afterward killed by Indians. Things gradually came into shape, a semi-monthly courier line w^as established from Yerba Buena to San Diego, and we w^ere thus enabled to keep pace
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFOROTA. 25
with events tlironghout tlie country. In Marcli Stevenson's regiment arrived. Colonel Mason also arrived by sea from Callao in the store-ship Erie, and P. St. George Cooke's bat- talion of Mormons reached San Luis Key. A. J. Smith and George Stoneman were with him, and were assigned to the com- pany of dragoons at Los Angeles. All these troops and the navy regarded General Kearney as the rightful commander, though Fremont still remained at Los Angeles, styling himself as Governor, issuing orders and holding his battalion of California Volunteers in apparent defiance of General Kearney. Colonel Mason and Major Turner were sent down by sea with a pay- master, with muster-rolls and orders to muster this battalion into the service of the United States, to pay and then to muster them out ; but on their reaching Los Angeles Fremont would not con- sent to it, and the controversy became so angry that a challenge was believed to have passed between Mason and Fremont, but the duel never came about. Turner rode up by land in four or "Rve days, and Fremont, becoming alarmed, followed him, as we supposed, to overtake him, but he did not succeed. On Fre- mont's arrival at Monterey, he camped in a tent about a mile out of town and called on General Kearney, and it was reported that the latter threatened him very severely and ordered him back to Los Angeles immediately, to disband his volunteers, and to cease the exercise of authority of any kind in the country. Feeling a natural curiosity to see Fremont, who was then quite famous by reason of his recent explorations and the still more recent conflicts with Kearney and Mason, I rode out to his camp, and found him in a conical tent with one Captain Owens, who was a mountain- eer, trapper, etc., but originally from Zanesville, Ohio. I spent an hour or so with Fremont in his tent,. took some tea with him, and left, without being much impressed with him. In due time Colonel Swords returned from the Sandwich Islands and re- lieved me as quartermaster. Captain William G. Marcy, son of the Secretary of War, had also come out in one of Stevenson's ships as an assistant commissary of subsistence, and was stationed at Monterey and relieved me as commissary, so that I reverted to the condition of a company-officer. While acting as a staff-
20 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORMA. [1846-'48.
officer I had lived at the custom-house in Monterey, but when reheved I took a tent in line with the other company-officers on the hill, where we had a mess.
Stevenson's regiment reached San Francisco Bay early in March, 1847. Three companies were stationed at the Presidio under Major -James A. Hardie ; one company (Brackett's) at So- noma ; three, under Colonel Stevenson, at Monterey ; and three, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burton, at Santa Barbara. One day I was down at the headquarters at Larkin's house, when General Kearney remarked to me that he was going down to Los Angeles in the ship Lexington, and wanted me to go along as his aide. Of course this was most agreeable to me. Two of Stevenson's companies, with the headquarters and the colonel, were to go also. They embarked, and early in May we sailed for San Pedro. Before embarking, the United States line-of-battle-ship Columbus had reached the coast from China with Commodore Biddle, w^hose rank gave him the supreme command of the navy on the coast. He was busy in calling in—" lassooing " — from the land-service the various naval officers who under Stockton had been doing all sorts of military and civil service on shore. Knowing that I was to go down the coast with General Kear- ney, he sent for me and handed me two unsealed parcels ad- dressed to Lieutenant Wilson, United States N^avy, and Major Gillespie, United States Marines, at Los Angeles. These were written orders pretty much in these words : " On receipt of this order you will repair at once on board the United States ship Lexington at San Pedro, and on reaching Monterey you will report to the undersigned. — Jaivies Biddle." Of course, I ex- ecuted my part to the letter, and these officers were duly " las- sooed." We sailed down the coast with a fair wind, and anchored inside the kelp, abreast of Johnson's house. Messages were forth- with dispatched up to Los Angeles, twenty miles off, and prepa- rations for horses made for us to ride up. We landed, and, as Kearney held to my arm in ascending the steep path up the bluff, he remarked to himself, rather than to me, that it was strange that Fremont did not want to return north by the Lex- ington on account of sea-sickness, but preferred to go by land
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIOiTS OF CALIFORNIA. 27
over five hundred miles. The younger officers had been discuss- ing what the general would do with Fremont, who was supposed to be in a state of mutiny. Some thought he would be tried and shot, some that he would be carried back in irons / and all agreed that if any one else than Fremont had put on such airs, and had acted as he had done, Kearney would have shown him no mercy, for he was regarded as the strictest sort of a disciplinarian. We had a pleasant ride across the plain which lies between the sea- shore and Los Angeles, which we reached in about three hours, the infantry following on foot. We found Colonel P. St. George Cooke living at the house of a Mr. Pryor, and the com- pany of dragoons, with A. J. Smith, Davidson, Stoneman, and Dr. Griffin, quartered in an adobe-house close by. Fremont held his court in the only two-story frame-house in the place. After some time spent at Pryor's house, General Kearney ordered me to call on Fremont to notify him of his arrival, and that he desired to see him. I walked round to the house which had been pointed out to me as his, inquired of a man at the door if the colonel was in, was answered " Yes," and was conducted to a large room on the second floor, where very soon Fremont came in, and I delivered my message. As I was on the point of leaving, he in- quired where I was going to, and I answered that I was going- back to Pryor's house, where the general was, when he remarked that if I would wait a moment he would go along. Of course I waited, and he soon joined me, dressed much as a Calif ornian, with the peculiar high, broad-brimmed hat, with a fancy cord, and we walked together back to Pryor's, where I left him with General Kearney. We spent several days very pleasantly at Los Angeles, then, as now, the chief pueblo of the south, famous for its grapes, fruits, and wines. There was a hill close to the town, from which we had a perfect view of the place. The sur- rounding country is level, utterly devoid of trees, except the willows and cotton-woods that line the Los Angeles Creek and the acequias^ or ditches, which lead from it. The space of ground cultivated in vineyards seemed about ^yq miles by one, embrac- ing the town. Every house had its inclosure of vineyard, which resembled a miniature orchard, the vines being very old, ranged
28 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORXIA. [1846-'48.
in rows, trimmed very close, with irrigating ditclies so arranged that a stream of water could be diverted between each row of vines. The Los Angeles and San Gabriel Kivers are fed by melting snows from a range of mountains to the east, and the quantity of cultivated land depends upon the amount of water. This did not seem to be very large ; but the San Grabriel Eiver, close by, was represented to contain a larger volume of water, affording the means of greatly enlarging the space for cultivation. The climate w^as so moderate that oranges, figs, pomegranates, etc., were generally to be found in every yard or inclosure. P"^ At the time of our visit, General Kearney was making his preparations to return overland to the United States, and he arranged to secure a volunteer escort out of the battalion of Mormons that was then stationed at San Luis Key, under Colonel Cooke and a Major Hunt. This battalion was only enlisted for one year, and the time for their discharge was approaching, and it was generally understood that the majority of the men wanted to be discharged so as to join the Mormons who had halted at Salt Lake, but a lieutenant and about forty men volunteered to return to Missouri as the escort of General Kearney. These were mounted on mules and horses, and I was appointed to con- duct them to Monterey by land. Leaving the party at Los Angeles to follow by sea in the Lexington, I started with the Mormon detachment and traveled by land. We averaged about thirty miles a day, stopped one day at Santa Barbara, where I saw Colonel Burton, and so on by the usually traveled road to Monterey, reaching it in about fifteen days, arriving some days in advance of the Lexington. This gave me the best kind of an opportunity for seeing the country, which was very sparsely pop- ulated indeed, except by a few families at the various Missions. "We had no wheeled vehicles, but packed our food and clothing on mules driven ahead, and we slept on the ground in the open air, the rainy season having passed. Fremont followed me by land in a few days, and, by the end of May, General Kearney r was all ready at Monterey to take his departure, leaving to L succeed him in command Colonel E. B. Mason, First Dragoons. Our Captain (Tompkins), too, had become discontented at his
131574
1846-'48.] EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFOENIA. 29
separation from his family, tendered his resignation to General Kearney, and availed himself of a sailing-vessel bound for Callao to reach the East. Colonel Mason selected me as his adjutant^ general ; and on the very last day of May General Kearney, with his Mormon escort, with Colonel Cooke, Colonel Swords (quartermaster), Captain Turner, and a naval officer. Captain Badford, took his departure for the East overland, leaving us in full possession of California and its fate. Fremont also left California with General Kearney, and with him departed all cause of confusion and disorder in the country. From that time forth no one could dispute the authority of Colonel Mason as in command of all the United States forces on shore, w^hile the ,; senior naval officer had a like control afloat. This was Com- modore James Biddle, w^ho had reached the station from China in the Columbus, and he in turn was succeeded by Commodore T. Ap Catesby Jones in the line-of-battle-ship Ohio. At that time Monterey was our headquarters, and the naval commander for a time remained there, but subsequently San Francisco Bay became the chief naval rendezvous.
Colonel R. B. Mason, First Dragoons, was an officer of greaP experience, of stern character, deemed by some harsh and severe, but in all my intercourse with him he was kind and agreeable. / He had a large fund of good sense, and, during our long perioa of service together, I enjoyed his unlimited confidence. He had been in his day a splendid shot and hunter, and often enter- tained me with characteristic anecdotes of Taylor, Twiggs, Worth, Harney, Martin Scott, etc., etc , w^lio were then in Mexico, gaining a national fame. California had settled down to a condition of absolute repose, and we naturally repined at our fate in being so remote from the war in Mexico, where our com- rades were reaping large honors. Mason dwelt in a house not far from the Custom-House, with Captain Lanman, United States ^N'avy; I had a small adobe-house back of Larkin's. Halleck and Dr. Murray had a small log-house not far off. The company of artillery was still on the hill, under the command of Lieu- ■ tenant Ord, engaged in building a fort whereon to mount the guns we had brought out in the Lexington, and also in con-
30 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846- 48.
structing quarters out of hewn pine-logs for the men. Lieuten- ant Minor, a very clever young officer, had taken violently sick and died about the time I got back from Los Angeles, leaving Lieutenants Ord and Loeser alone with the company, with As- sistant-Surgeon Eobert Murray. Captain William Gr. Marcy was the quartermaster and commissary, ^aglee's company of Stevenson's regiment had been mounted and was sent out against the Indians in the San Joaquin Yalley, and Shannon's company occupied the barracks. Shortly after General Kearney had gone East, we found an order of his on record, removing one Mr. ]Nash, the Alcalde of Sonoma, and appointing to his place ex-Governor L. W, Boggs. A letter came to Colonel and Gov- ernor Mason from Boggs, whom he had personally known in Missouri, complaining that, though he had been appointed alcalde, the then incumbent (^Nash) utterly denied Kearney's right to remove him, because he had been elected by the peo- ple under the proclamation of Commodore Sloat, and refused to surrender his office or to account for his acts as alcalde. Such a proclamation had been made by Commodore Sloat shortly after the first occupation of California, announcing that the people were free and enlightened American citizens, entitled to all the rights and privileges as such, and among them the right to elect their own officers, etc. The people of Sonoma town and valley, some forty or fifty immigrants from the United States, and very few native Calif omians, had elected Mr. Kash, and, as stated, he refused to recognize the right of a mere military commander to eject him and to appoint another to his place. Neither General Kearney nor Mason had much respect for this kind of " buncombe," but assumed the true doctrine that Cali- fornia was yet a Mexican province, held by right of conquest, that the military commander was held responsible to the coun- try, and that the province should be held m statu quo until a treaty of peace. This letter of Boggs was therefore referred to Captain Brackett, whose company was stationed at Sonoma, with orders to notify ]N'ash that Boggs was the rightful alcalde ; that he must quietly surrender his office, with the books and records thereof, and that he must account for any moneys received
184G-'48.] EAELY EEOOLLECTIOXS OF CxVLIFORNIA. 31
from the sale of town-lots, etc., etc. ; and in tlie event of refusal he (Captain Bracket t) must compel him by the use of force. In due time we got Brackett's answer, saying that the little community of Sonoma was in a dangerous state of effervescence caused by his orders ; that Nash was backed by most of the Americans there who had come across from Missouri with American ideas; that as he (Brackett) was a volunteer offi- cer, likely to be soon discharged, and as he designed to settle there, he asked in consequence to be excused from the execu- tion of this (to him) unpleasant duty. Such a request, com- ing to an old soldier like Colonel Mason, aroused his wrath, and he would have proceeded rough-shod against Brackett, who, by-the-way, was a West Point graduate, and ought to have known better ; but I suggested to the colonel that, the case being a test one, he had better send me up to Sonoma, and I would settle it quick enough. He then gave me an order to go to Sonoma to carry out the instructions already given to Brackett. I took one soldier with me. Private Barnes, with four horses, two of which we rode, and the other two we drove ahead. The first day we reached Gilroy's and camped by a stream near three or four adobe-huts known as Gilroy's ranch. The next day we passed Murphy's, San Jose, and Santa Clara Mission, camping some four miles beyond, where a kind of hole had been dug in the ground for water. The whole of this distance, now so beautifully improved and settled, was then scarcely occupied, except by poor ranches producing horses and cattle. T\\q jpueblo of San Jose was a string of low adobe-houses festooned with red peppers and garlic; and the Mission of Santa Clara was a dilapidated concern, with its church and orchard. The long line of poplar-trees lining the road from San Jose to Santa Clara bespoke a former period when the priests had ruled the land. Just about dark I was lying on the ground near the well, and my soldier Barnes had watered our horses and picketed them to grass, when we heard a horse crushing his way through the high mustard-bushes which filled the plain, and soon a man came to us to inquire if we had seen a saddle-horse pass up the road. We explained to
o
2 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846- '48.
him what we had heard, and he went off in pursuit of his horse. Before dark he came back unsuccessful, and gave his name as Bidwell, the same gentleman who has since been a member of Congress, who is married to Miss Kennedy, of Washington City, and now lives in princely style at Chico, California.
He explained that he was a surveyor, and had been in the lower country engaged in surveying land ; that the horse had escaped him with his saddle-bags containing all his notes and papers, and some six hundred dollars in money, all the money he had earned. He spent the night with us on the ground, and the next morning we left him there to conUnue the search for his horse, and I afterward heard that he had found his saddle-bags all right, but never recovered the horse. The next day toward night we approached the Mission of San Francisco, and the village of Yerba Buena, tired and weary — the wind as usual blowing a perfect hurricane, and a more desolate region it was impossible to conceive of. Leaving Barnes to work his way into the town as best he could with the tired animals, I took the freshest horse and rode forward. I fell in with Lieu- tenant Fabius Stanley, United States Navy, and we rode into Yerba Buena together about an hour before sundown, there be- ing nothing but a path from the Mission into the town, deep and heavy with drift-sand. My horse could hardly drag one foot after the other when we reached the old Hudson Bay Company's house, which was then the store of Howard and Melius. There I learned where Captain Folsom, the quarter- master, was to be found. He was staying with a family of the name of Grimes, who had a small house back of Howard's store, which must have been near where Sacramento Street now crosses Kearney. Folsom was a classmate of mine, had come out with Stevenson's regiment as quartermaster, and was at the time the chief-quartermaster of the department. Llis office was in the old custom-house standing at the northwest corner of the Plaza. He had hired two warehouses, the only ones there at the time, of one Liedsdorff, the principal man of Yerba Buena, who also owned the only public-house, or tavern, called the
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CxVLIFORMA. 33
City Hotel, on Kearney Street, at the southeast corner of the Plaza. I stopped with Folsom at Mrs. Grimes's, and he sent my horse, as also the other three when Barnes had got in after dark, to a corral where he had a little barley, but no hay. At that time nobody fed a horse, but he was usually turned out to pick such scanty grass as he could find on the side-hills. The few government horses used in town were usually sent out to the Presidio, where the grass was somewhat better. At that\ time (July, 1847), what is now called San Francisco was called; Yerba Buena. A naval officer, Lieutenant "Washington A. Bartlett, its first alcalde, had caused it to be surveyed and laid out into blocks a^^d lots, which were being sold at sixteen dol- lars a lot of fifty "daras square ; the understanding being that no single person could purchase of the alcalde more than one in-lot of fifty varas, and one out-lot of a hundred varas. Fol- som, however, had got his clerks, orderlies, etc., to buy lots, and they, for a small consideration, conveyed them to him, so that he was nominally the owner of a good many lots. Lieu- tenant Hal leek had bought one of each kind, and so had War- ner. Many naval officers had also invested, and Captain Folsom advised me to buy some, but I felt actually insulted that he should think me such a fool as to pay money for property in such a horrid place as Yerba Buena, especially ridiculing his quarter of the city, then called Happy Valley. At that day Montgomery Street was, as now, the business street, extending from Jackson to Sacramento, the water of the bay leaving barely room for a few houses on its east side, and the public warehouses were on a sandy beach about where the Bank of California now stands, viz., near the intersection of Sansome and California Streets. Along Montgomery Street were the stores of Howard & Melius, Frank "Ward, Sherman & Ruckel, Ross & Co., and it may be one or two others. Around the Plaza were a few houses, among them the City Hotel and the Custom-House, single-story adobes with tiled roofs, and they were by far the most substantial and best houses in the place. The population was estimated at about four hundred, of whomi Kanakas (natives of the Sandwich Islands) formed the bulky 3
34: EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-^48.
At the foot of Clay Street was a small wharf which small boats could reach at high tide ; but the principal landing-place was where some stones had fallen into the water, about where Broadway now intersects Battery Street. On the steep bluff above had been excavated, by the navy, during the year before, a bench, wherein were mounted a couple of navy-guns, styled tlie lattery, which, I suppose, gave name to the street. I ex- plained to Folsom the object of my visit, and learned from him that he had no boat in which to send me to Sonoma, and that the only chance to get there was to borrow a boat from the navy. The line-of-battle-ship Columbus was then lying at anchor off the town, and he said if I would get up early the next morning I could go off to her in one of the marlcet-hoditQ.
Accordingly, I was up bright and early, down at the wharf, found a boat, and went off to the Columbus to see Commodore Biddle. On reaching the ship and stating to the officer of the deck my business, I was shown into the commodore's cabin, and soon made known to him my object. Biddle was a small-sized man, but vivacious in the extreme. He had a perfect contempt for all humbug, and at once entered into the business with ex- treme alacrity. I was somewhat amused at the importance he attached to the step. He had a chaplain, and a private secre- tary, in a small room latticed off from his cabin, and he first called on them to go out, and, when we were alone, he en- larged on the folly of Sloat's proclamation, giving the people the right to elect their own officers, and commended Kear- ney and Mason for nipping that idea in the bud, and keep- ing the power in their own hands. He then sent for the first lieutenant (Drayton), and inquired if there were among the officers on board any who had ever been in the Tipper Bay, and learning that there was a midshipman (Whittaker) he was sent for. It so happened that this midshipman had been on a frolic on shore a few nights before, and was accordingly much fright- ened when summoned into the commodore's presence, but as soon as he was questioned as to his knowledge of the bay, he was sensibly relieved, and professed to know every thing about it.
Accordingly, the long-boat was ordered with this midship-
184G-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 35
man and eiglit sailors, prepared with water and provisions for several days' absence. Biddle then asked me if I knew any of his own officers, and whicli one of them I would prefer to ac- company me. I knew most of them, and we settled down on Louis McLan^. He was sent for, and it was settled that McLane and I were to conduct this imjportant mission, and the commo- dore enjoined on us complete secrecy, so as to insure success, and he especially cautioned us against being pumped by his ward-room officers. Chapman, Lewis, Wise, etc., while on board his ship. With this injunction I was dismissed to the ward- room, where I found Chapman, Lewis, and Wise, dreadfully ex- ercised at our profound secrecy. The fact that McLane and I had been closeted with the commodore for an hour, that orders for the boat and stores had been made, that the chaplain and clerk had been sent out of the cabin, etc., etc., all excited their curiosity ; but McLane and I kept our secret well. The general impression was, that we had some knowledge about the fate of Captain Montgomery's two sons and the crew that had been lost the year before. In 1846 Captain Montgomery commanded at Yerba Buena, on board the St. Mary sloop-of-war, and he had a detachment of men stationed up at Sonoma. Occasionally a boat was sent up with provisions or intelligence to them. Mont- gomery had two sons on board his ship, one a midshipman, the other his secretary. Having occasion to send some money up to Sonoma, he sent his two sons with a good boat and crew. The boat started with a strong breeze and a very large sail, was watched from the deck until she was out of sight, and has never been heard of since. There was, of course, much speculation as to their fate, some contending that the boat must have been capsized in San Pablo Bay, and that all were lost ; others con- tending that the crew had murdered the officers for the money, and then escaped ; but, so far as I know, not a man of that crew has ever been seen or heard of since. When at last the boat was ready for us, we started, leaving all hands, save the commo- dore, impressed with the belief that we were going on some er- rand connected with the loss of the missing boat and crew of the St. Mary. We sailed directly north, up the bay and across
36 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
San PablOj reached tlie moutli of Sonoma Creek about dark, and during the niglit worked up the creek some twelve miles by means of the tide, to a landing called the EinhaTcadero. To maintain the secrecy which the commodore had enjoined on us, McLane and I agreed to keep up the delusion by pretending to be on a marketing expedition to pick up chickens, pigs, etc., for the mess of the Columbus, soon to depart for home.
Leaving the midshipman and four sailors to guard the boat, we started on foot with the other four for Sonoma Town, which we soon reached. It was a simple open square, around which were some adobe-houses, that of General Yallejo occupying one side. On another was an unfinished two-story adobe building, occupied as a barrack by Brackett's company. We soon found Captain Brackett, and I told him that I intended to take l^asli a prisoner and convey him back to Monterey to answer for his mutinous behavior. I got an old sergeant of his company, whom I had known in the Third Artillery, quietly to ascertain the whereabouts of ITash, who was a bachelor, stopping with the family of a lawyer named Green. The sergeant soon returned, saying that JSTash had gone over to l^apa, but would be back that evening ; so McLane and I went up to a farm of some pre- tensions, occupied by one Andreas Hoepner, with a pretty Sitka wife, who lived a couple of miles above Sonoma, and we bought '.of him some chickens, pigs, etc. We then visited Governor jBoggs's family and that of General Yallejo, who was then, as now, one of the most prominent and influential natives of Cali- fornia. About dark I learned that Kash had come back, and then, giving Brackett orders to have a cart ready at the corner of the plaza, McLane and I went to the house of Green. Post- ing an armed sailor on each side of the house, we knocked at the door and walked in. We found Green, Kash, and two women', at supper. I inquired if Kash were in, and was first answered " 1^0," but one of the women soon pointed to him, and he rose. We were armed with pistols, and the family was evidently alarmed. I walked up to him and took his arm, and told him to come along with me. He asked me, " Where ? " and I said, " Monterey." " Why ? " I would explain that more at leisure.
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 37
Green put himself between me and tlie door, and demanded, in theatrical style, why I dared arrest a peaceable citizen in his house. I simply pointed to my pistol, and told him to get out of the way, which he did. JN^ash asked to get some clothing, but I told him he should want for nothing. We passed out. Green following us with loud words, which brought the four sailors to the front-door, when I told him to hush up or I would take him prisoner also. About that time one of the sailors, handling his pistol carelessly, discharged it, and Green disappeared very sud- denly. We took Kash to the cart, put him in, and proceeded back to our boat. The next morning;^ we were 2:one.
Nash being out of the way, Boggs entered on his office, and|\ the right to appoint or remove from civil office was never again Ij questioned in California during the military regime. IN^ash was an old man, and was very much alarmed for his personal safety. He had come across the Plains, and had never yet seen the sea. While on our way down the bay, I explained fully to him the state of things in California, and he admitted he had never looked on it in that light before, and professed a willingness to surrender his office ; but, having gone so far, I thought it best to take him to Monterey. On our way down the bay the wind was so strong, as we approached the Columbus, that we had to take refuge be- hind Yerba Buena Island, then called Goat Island, where we landed, and I killed a gray seal. The next morning, the wind being comparatively light, we got out and worked our way up to the Columbus, where I left my prisoner on board, and went on shore to find Commodore Biddle, who had gone to dine with Frank Ward. I found him there, and committed Nash to his charge, with the request that he would send him down to Monterey, which he did in the sloop-of-war Dale, Cap- tain Self ridge commanding. I then returned to Monterey by land, and, when the Dale arrived. Colonel Mason and I went on board, found poor old Mr. Nash half dead with sea-sickness and fear, lest Colonel Mason would treat him with extreme military rigor. But, on the contrary, the colonel spoke to him kindly, released him as a prisoner on his promise to go back to Sono- ma, surrender his office to Boggs, and account to him for his
38 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
acts wMle in office. He afterward came on shore, was provided with clothing and a horse, returned to Sonoma, and I never have seen him since.
Matters and things settled down in Upper California, and all moved along with peace and harmony. The war still con- tinued in Mexico, and the navy authorities resolved to employ their time with the capture of Mazatlan and Guaymas. Lower California had already been occupied by two companies of Ste- venson's regiment, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burton, who had taken post at La Paz, and a small party of sailors was on shore at San Josef, near Cape San Lucas, detached from the Lexington, Lieutenant-Commander Bailey. The orders for this occupation were made by General Kearney before he left, in pursuance of instructions from the War Department, merely to subserve a political end, for there were few or no people in Lower Califor- nia, which is a miserable, wretched, dried-up peninsula. I remember the proclamation made by Burton and Captain Bai- ley, in taking possession, which was in the usual florid style. Bailey signed his name as the senior naval officer at the station, but, as it was necessary to put it into Spanish to reach the in- habitants of the newly-acquired coiintry, it was interpreted, " El mas antiguo de todos los oficiales de la marina," etc., which, literally, is " the most ancient of all the naval officers," etc., a translation at which we made some fun.
The expedition to Mazatlan was, however, for a different purpose, viz., to get possession of the ports of Mazatlan and Guaymas, as a part of the war against Mexico, and not for per- manent conquest.
Commodore Shubrick commanded this expedition, and took Halleck along as his engineer-officer. They captured Mazatlan and Guaymas, and then called on Colonel Mason to send soldiers down to hold possession, but he had none to spare, and it was found impossible to raise other volunteers either in California or Oregon, and the navy held these places by detachments of sail- ors and marines till the end of the war. Burton also called for reenforcements, and ISTaglee's company was sent to him from Monterey, and these three companies occupied Lower California
1846-'48.] EAELY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORN'IA. 39
at the end of the Mexican "War. Major Hardie still commanded at San Francisco and above ; Company F, Third Artillery, and , Shannon's company of volunteers, were at Monterey ; Lippett's company at Santa Barbara ; Colonel Stevenson, with one com- pany of his regiment, and the company of the First Dragoons, was at Los Angeles ; and a company of Mormons, reenlisted ^ out of the Mormon Battalion, garrisoned San Diego — and thus ' matters went along throughout 1847 into 1848. I had occasion to make several trips to Yerba Buena and back, and in the spring of 1848 Colonel Mason and I went down to Santa Bar- bara in the sloop-of-war Dale.
I spent much time in hunting deer and bear in the mountains back of the Carmel Mission, and ducks and geese in the plains of the Salinas. As soon as the fall rains set in, the young oats would sprout up, and myriads of ducks, brant, and geese, made their appearance. In a single day, or rather in the evening of one day and the morning of the next, I could load a pack-mule with geese and ducks. They had grown somewhat wild from the increased number of hunters, yet, by marking well the place where a flock lighted, I could, by taking advantage of gullies or the shape of the ground, creep up within range ; and, giving one barrel on the ground, and the other as they rose, I have secured as many as nine at one discharge. Colonel Mason on one occasion killed eleven geese by one 'discharge of small shot. The seasons in California are well marked. About October and l^ovember the rains begin, and the whole country, plains and mountains, becomes covered with a bright-green grass, with endless flowers. The intervals between the rains give the finest weather possible. These rains are less frequent in March, and cease altogether in April and May, when gradually the grass dies and the whole aspect of things changes, first to yellow, then to brown, and by midsummer all is burnt up and dry as an ash- heap.
When General Kearney first departed we took his office at Larkin's j but shortly afterward we had a broad stairway con- structed to lead from the outside to the upper front porch of the barracks. By cutting a large door through the adobe-wall,
4:0 EAELY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
we made tlie upper room in tlie centre onr office ; and another side-room, connected witli it by a door, was Colonel Mason's private office.
I had a single clerk, a soldier named Baden ; and "William E. P. Hartnell, citizen, also had a table in the same room. He was the government interpreter, and had charge of the civil archives. After Halleck's return from Mazatlan, he was, by Colonel Mason, made Secretary of State ; and he then had charge of the civil archives, including the land-titles, of which Fremont first had possession, but which had reverted to us when he left the country.
I remember one day, in the spring of 1848, that two men, Americans, came into the office and inquired for the Governor. I asked their business, and one answered that they had just come down from Captain Sutter on special business, and they wanted to see Governor Mason in person. I took them in to the colo- nel, and left them together. After some time the colonel came to his door and called to me. I went in, and my attention was directed to a series of papers unfolded on his table, in which lay about half an ounce of placer-gold. Mason said to me, " What is that ? " I touched it and examined one or two of the larger pieces, and asked, " Is it gold ? " Mason asked me if I had ever seen native gold. I answered that, in 184:4, I was in Upper Georgia, and there saw some native gold, but it was much finer than this, and that it was in phials, or in transparent quills ; but I said that, if this were gold, it could be easily tested, first, by its malleability, and next by acids. I took a piece in my teeth, and the metallic lustre was perfect. I then called to the clerk, Baden, to bring an axe and hatchet from the back- yard. When these were brought, I took the largest piece and beat it out flat, and beyond doubt it was metal, and a pure metal. Still, we attached little importance to the fact, for gold was known to exist at San Fernando, at the south, and yet was not considered of much value.
Colonel Mason then handed me a letter from Captain Sutter, addressed to him, stating that he (Sutter) was engaged in erecting a saw-mill at Coloma, about forty miles up the American Fork,
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 41
above his fort at J^ew Helvetia, for the general benefit of the settlers in that vicinity ; that he had incurred considerable ex- pense, and wanted ^ "preemption" to the quarter-section of land on which the mill was located, embracing the tail-race in which this particular gold had been found. Mason in- structed me to prepare a letter, in answer, for his signature. I wrote ofE a letter, reciting that California was yet a Mexican province, simply held by us as a conquest ; that no laws of the United States yet applied to it, much less the land laws or preemption laws, which could only apply after a public survey. Therefore it was impossible for the Governor to promise him (Sutter) a title to the land ; yet, as there were no settlements within forty miles, he was not likely to be disturbed by tres- passers. Colonel Mason signed the letter, handed it to one of the gentlemen who had brought the sample of gold, and they departed.
That gold was the first discovered in the Sierra Nevada, which soon revolutionized the whole country, and actually moved the whole civilized world. About this time (May and June, 1848), far more importance was attached to quicksilver. One mine, the I^ew Almaden, twelve miles south of San Jose, was well known, and was in possession of the agent of a Scotch gentle man named Forbes, who at the time was British consul at Topic, Mexico. Mr. Forbes came up from San Bias in a small brig, which proved to be a Mexican vessel ; the vessel was seized, condemned, and actually sold, but Forbes was wealthy, and bought her in. His title to the quicksilver-mine was, however, never disputed, as he had bought it regularly, before our con- quest of the country, from another British subject, also named Forbes, a resident of Santa Clara Mission, who had purchased it of the discoverer, a priest ; but the boundaries of the land attached to the mine were even then in dispute. Other men were in search of quicksilver ; and the whole range of moun- tains near the ^Kew Almaden mine was stained with the brilliant red of the sulphuret of mercury (cinnabar). A company com- posed of T. O. Larkin, J. K. Snyder, and others, among them one John Kicord (who was quite a character), also claimed a
i2 EAKLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-48.
valuable mine near by. Eicord was a lawyer from about Buf- falo, and by some means had got to the Sandwich Islands, where he became a great favorite of the king, K^ehameha ; w^as his attorney-general, and got into a difficulty with the Eev. Mr. Judd, who was a kind of prime-minister to his majesty. One or the other had to go, and Eicord left for San Francisco, where he arrived while Colonel Mason and I were there on some busi- ness connected with the customs. Eicord at once made a dead set at Mason with flattery, and all sorts of spurious arguments, to convince him that our military government was too simple in its forms for the new state of facts, and that he was the man to remodel it. I had heard a good deal to his prejudice, and did all I could to prevent Mason taking him into his confidence. We then started back for Monterey. Eicord was along, and night and day he was harping on his scheme ; but he disgusted Colonel Mason with his flattery, and, on reaching Mon- terey, he opened what he called a law-office, but there w^ere neither courts nor clients, so necessity forced him to turn his thoughts to something else, and quicksilver became his hobby. In the spring of 1848 an appeal came to our office from San Jose, which compelled the Governor to go up in person. Lieu- tenant Loeser and I, with a couple of soldiers, went along. At San Jose the Governor held some kind of a court, in which Eicord and the alcalde had a warm dispute about a certain mine which Eicord, as a member of the Larkin Company, had opened within the limits claimed by the 'New Almaden Com- pany. On our way up we had visited the ground, and were therefore better prepared to understand the controversy. We had found at New Almaden Mr. "Walkinshaw, a fine Scotch gentleman, the resident agent of Mr. Forbes. He had built in the valley, near a small stream, a few board-houses, and some four or Jive furnaces for the distillation of the mercury. These were very simple in their structure, being composed of whalers' kettles, set in masonry. These kettles were filled with broken ore about the size of McAdam-stone, mingled with lime. An- other kettle, reversed, formed the lid, and the seam was luted with clay. On applying heat, the mercury was volatilized and
1846-'48.] EAELY KECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 43
carried into a cliimney-stack, wliere it condensed and flowed back into a reservoir, and then was led in pipes into another kettle outside. After witnessing this process, we visited the mine itself, which outcropped near the apex of the hill, about a thousand feet above the furnaces. We found wagons hauling the mineral down the hill and returning empty, and in the mines quite a number of Sonora miners were blasting and driv- ing for the beautiful ore (cinnabar). It was then, and is now, a most valuable mine. The adit of the mine was at the apex of the hill, which drooped off to the north. We rode along this hill, and saw where many openings had been begun, but these, proving of little or no value, had been abandoned. Three miles beyond, on the west face of the hill, we came to the opening of the " Larkin Company." There was evidence of a good deal of work, but the mine itself was filled up by what seemed a land-slide. The question involved in the lawsuit before the alcalde at San Jose was, first, whether the mine was or was not on the land belonging to the JSTew Almaden property ; and, next, whether the company had complied with all the conditions of the mining laws of Mexico, which were construed to be still in force in California.
These laws required that any one who discovered a valuable mine on private land should first file with the alcalde, or judge of the district, a notice and claim for the benefits of such dis- covery ; then the mine was to be opened and followed for a distance of at least one hundred feet within a specified time, and the claimants must take out samples of the mineral and deposit the same with the alcalde, who was then required to inspect ^^z"- sonally the mino, to see that it fulfilled all the conditions of the law, before he could give a written title. In this case the alcalde had been to the mine and had possession of samples of the ore ; but, as the mouth of the mine was closed up, as alleged, from the act of God, by a land-slide, it was contended by Ricord and his associates that it was competent to prove by good witnesses that the mine had been opened into the hill one hundred feet, and that, by no negligence of theirs, it had caved in. It was generally understood that Robert J. Walker, United
44 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
States Secretary of the Treasury, was tlien a partner in this mining company ; and a vessel, the bark Gray Eagle, was ready at San Francisco to sail for New York with the title-papers on which to base a joint-stock company for speculative uses. I think the alcalde was satisfied that the law had been complied with, that he had given the necessary papers, and, as at that time there was nothing developed to show fraud, the Governor (Mason) did not interfere. At that date there was no public house or tavern in San Jose where we could stop, so we started toward Santa Cruz and encamped about ten miles out, to the west of the town, where we fell in with another party of explorers, of whom Ruckel, of San Francisco, was the head ; and after supper, as we sat around the camp-fire, the conversation turned on quicksilver in general, and the result of the contest in ' San Jose in particular. Mason was relating to Huckel the points and the arguments of Ricord, that the company should not suffer from an act of God, viz., the caving in of the mouth of the mine, when a man named Cash, a fellow who had once been in the quartermaster's employ as a teamster, spoke up : " Governor Mason, did Judge Eicord say that ? " " Yes," said the Gov- ernor; and then Cash related how he and another man, whose name he gave, had been employed by Kicord to undermine a heavy rock that rested above the mouth of the mine, so that it tumbled down, carrying with it a large quantity of earth, and completely filled it up, as w^e had seen; "and," said Cash, "it took us three days of the hardest kind of work." This was the act of God, and on the papers procured from the alcalde at that time, I understand, was built a huge speculation, by which thousands of dollars changed hands in the United States and were lost. This happened long before the celebrated McGarra- han claim, which has produced so much noise, and which still is being prosecuted in the courts and in Congress.
On the next day we crossed over the Santa Cruz Mountains, from which we had sublime views of the scenery, first looking east toward the lower Bay of San Francisco, with the bright plains of Santa Clara and San Jose, and then to the west upon the ocean, the town of Monterey being visible sixty miles oif .
1846-'48.] EAELY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFOKNIA. 45
If my memory is correct, we beheld from tliat moimtain tlie firing of a salute from the battery at Monterey, and counted tlie number of guns from the white puffs of smoke, but could not hear the sound. That night we slept on piles of wheat in a mill at Soquel, near Santa Cruz, and, our supplies being short, I advised that we should make an early start next morning, so as to reach the ranch of Don Juan Antonio Yallejo, a particular friend, who had a larg^ and valuable cattle-ranch on the Pajaro Kiver, about twenty miles on our way to Monterey. Accordingly, we were off by the first light of day, and by nine o'clock we had reached the ranch. It was on a high point of the plateau, overlooking the plain of the Pajaro, on which were grazing numbers of horses and cattle. The house was of adobe, with a long range of adobe-huts occupied by the semi-civilized Indians, who at that time did all the labor of a ranch, the herding and marking of cattle, breaking of horses, and cultivating the lit- tle patches of wheat and vegetables which constituted all the farming of that day. Every thing about the house looked deserted, and, seeing a small Indian boy leaning up against a post, I approached him and asked him in Spanish, " Where is the master ? " " Gone to the Presidio " (Monterey). " Is anybody in the house ? " " ]^o." " Is it locked up ? " " Yes." '' Is no one about who can get in ? " " ]^o." " Have you any meat ? " "]Sro." "Any flour or grain?" "]^o." "Any chickens?" "Ko." "Any eggs?" ":N'o." "What do you live on?" " Nada " (nothing). The utter indifference of this boy, and the tone of his answer " Nada^^ attracted the attention of Colonel Mason, who had been listening to our conversation, and who knew enough of Spanish to catch the meaning, and he exclaimed with some feeling, "So we get nada for our breakfast." I felt mortified, for I had held out the prospect of a splendid breakfast of meat and tortillas with rice, chickens, eggs, etc., at the ranch of my friend Jose Antonio, as a justification for taking the Governor, a man of sixty years of age, more than twenty miles at a full canter for his breakfast. But there was no help for it, and we accordingly went a short distance to a pond, where we unpacked our mules and made a slim breakfast
iQ EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
on some scraps of hard bread and a bone of pork that remained in our alforjas. This was no uncommon thing in those days, when many a Tanchero with his eleven leagues of land, his hundreds of horses and thousands of cattle, would receive us with all the grandiloquence of a Spanish lord, and confess that he had nothing in his house to eat except the carcass of a beef hung up, from which the stranger might cut and cook, without money or price, what he needed. That night we slept on Salinas Plain, and the next morning reached Monterey. All the missions and houses at that period were alive with fleas, which the natives looked on as pleasant titillators, but they so tortured me that I always gave them a wide berth, and slept on a saddle-blanket, with the saddle for a pillow and the serajpe^ or blanket, for a cover. We never feared rain except in winter. As the spring and summer of 1848 advanced, the reports came faster and faster from the gold-mines at Sutter's saw-mill. Stories reached us of fabulous discoveries, and spread throughout the land. Everybody was talking of " Gold ! gold ! ! " until it assumed the character of a fever. Some of our soldiers began to desert ; citizens were fitting out trains of wagons and pack- mules to go to the m'ines. We heard of men earning fifty, ^yq hundred, and thousands of dollars per day, and for a time it seemed as though somebody would reach solid gold. Some of this gold began to come to Yerba Buena in trade, and to disturb the value of merchandise, particularly of mules, horses, tin pans, and articles used in mining. I of course could not escape the infec- tion, and at last convinced Colonel Mason that it was our duty to go up and see with our own eyes, that we might report the truth to our Government. As yet we had no regular mail to any part of the United States, but mails had come to us at long intervals, around Cape Horn, and one or two overland. I well remember the first overland mail. It was brought by Kit Carson in saddle-bags from Taos in I^ew Mexico. We heard of his arrival at Los Angeles, and waited patiently for his arrival at head- quarters. His fame then was at its height, from the publica- tion of Fremont's books, and I was very anxious to see a man who had achieved such feats of daring among the wild animals
1846-'48.J EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 47
of the Eocky Mountains, and still wilder Indians of the Plains. At last his arrival was reported at the tavern at Monterey, and I hurried to hunt him up. I cannot express my surprise at be- holding a small, stoop-shouldered man, with reddish hair, freckled face, soft blue eyes, and nothing to indicate extraor- dinary courage or daring. He spoke but little, and answered questions in monosyllables. I asked for his mail, and he picked up his light saddle-bags containing the great overland mail, and we walked together to headquarters, where he delivered his parcel into Colonel Mason's own hands. He spent some days in Monterey, during which time we extracted with difficulty some items of his personal history. He was then by commission a lieutenant in the regiment of Mounted Rifles serving in Mexico under Colonel Sumner, and, as he could not reach his regiment from California, Colonel Mason ordered that for a time he should be assigned to duty with A. J. Smith's company. First Dragoons, at Los Angeles. He remained at Los Angeles some months, and was then sent back to the United States with dis- patches, traveling two thousand miles almost alone, in prefer- ence to being encumbered by a large party.
Toward the close of June, 1848, the gold-fever being at its height, by Colonel Mason's orders I made preparations for his trip to the newly-discovered gold-mines at Sutter's Fort. I se- lected four good soldiers, with Aaron, Colonel Mason's black ser- vant, and a good outfit of horses and pack-mules, we started by the usually traveled route for Yerba Buena. There Captain Fol- som and two citizens joined our party. The first difficulty was to cross the bay to Saucelito. Folsom, as quartermaster, had a sort of scow with a large sail, with which to discharge the par- goes of ships, that could not come within a mile of the shore. It took nearly the whole day to get the old scow up to the only wharf there, and then the water was so shallow that the scow, with its load of horses, would not float at the first high tide, but by infinite labor on the next tide she was got off and safely crossed over to Saucelito. We followed in a more comfortable schooner. Having safely landed our horses and mules, we packed up and rode to San Eafael Mission, stopping with Don
48 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
Timoteo Murphy. The next day's journey took ns to Bodega, where lived a man named Stephen Smith, who had the only steam saw-mill in California. He had a Peruvian wife, and employed a number of absolutely naked Indians in making adobes. "We spent a day very pleasantly with him, and learned that he had come to California some years before, at the personal advice of Daniel Webster, who had informed him that sooner or later the United States would be in possession of California, and that in conse- quence it would become a great country. From Bodega we trav- eled to Sonoma, by way of Petaluma, and spent a day with Gen- eral Yallejo. I had been there before, as related, in the business of the alcalde Nash. From Sonoma we crossed over by way of I^apa, Suisun, and Yaca's ranch, to the Puta. In the rainy season, the plain between the Puta and Sacramento Bivers is impassable, but in July the waters dry np ; and we passed without trouble, by the trail for Sutter's Mnbarcadero, We reached the Sacramento Biver, then full of water, with a deep, clear current. The only means of crossing over was by an Indian dugout canoe. We be- gan by carrying across our packs and saddles, and then our people. When all things were ready, the horses were driven into the wa- ter, one being guided ahead by a man in the canoe. Of course, the horses and mules at first refused to take to the water, and it was nearly a day's work to get them across, and even then some of our animals after crossing escaped into the woods and undergrowth that lined the river, but we secured enough of them to reach Sutter's Fort, three miles back from the embar- cadero^ where we encamped at the old slough, or pond, near the fort. On application. Captain Sutter sent some Indians ba«k into the bushes, who recovered and brought in all our animals. At that time there was not the sign of a habitation there or thereabouts, except the fort, and an old adobe-house, east of the fort, known as the hospital. The fort itself was one of adobe-walls, about twenty feet high, rectangular in form, with two-story block-houses at diagonal corners. The entrance was by a large gate, open by day and closed at night, with two iron ship's guns near at hand. Inside there was a large house, with a good shingle-roof, used as a storehouse, and all round the
1846-'48.] EAELY KECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 49
v/alls were ranged rooms, tlie fort - wall being the outer wall of the house. The inner wall also was of adobe. These rooms were used by Captain Sutter himself and by his people. He had a blacksmith's shop, carpenter's shop, etc., and other rooms where the women made blankets. Sutter was monarch of all he surveyed, and had authority to inflict punishment even unto death, a power he did not fail to use. He had horses, cattle, and sheep, and of these he gave liberally and without price to all in need. He caused to be driven into our camp a beef and some sheep, which were slaughtered for our use. Already the gold- mines were beginning to be felt. Many people were then en- camped, some going and some coming, all full of gold-stories, and each surpassing the other. We found preparations in prog- ress for celebrating the Fourth of July, then close at hand, and we agreed to remain over to assist on the occasion ; of course, be- ing the high officials, we were the honored guests. People came from a great distance to attend this celebration of the Fourth of July, and the tables were laid in the large room inside the store- house of the fort. A man of some note, named Sinclair, presided, and after a substantial meal and a reasonable supply of aguar- diente we began the toasts. All that I remember is that Folsom and I spoke for our party ; others. Captain Sutter included, made speeches, and before the celebration was over Sutter was very '^ tight," and many others showed the effects of the aguardiente. The next day (namely, July 5, 1848) we resumed our journey toward the mines, and, in twenty-five miles of as hot and dusty a ride as possible, we reached Mormon Island. I have hereto- fore stated that the gold was first found in the tail-race of the saw-mill at Coloma, forty miles above Sutter's Fort, or fifteen above Mormon Island, in the bed of the American Fork of the Sacramento Hiver. It seems that Sutter had employed an American named Marshall, a sort of millwright, to do this work for him, but Marshall afterward claimed that in the matter of the saw-mill they were copartners. At all events, Marshall and his family, in the winter of 1847-48, were living at Coloma, where the pine-trees afforded the best material for lumber. He had under him four white men. Mormons, who had been dis- 4
50 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
charged from Cooke's battalion, and some Indians. These were engaged in hewing logs, building a mill-dam, and putting up a saw-mill. Marshall, as the architect, had made the " tub-wheel," and had set it in motion, and had also furnished some of the rude parts of machinery necessary for an ordinary up-and-down saw-mill.
Labor was very scarce, expensive, and had to be economized. The mill was built over a dry channel of the river which was calculated to be the tail-race. After arranging his head-race, dam, and tub-wheel, he let on the water to test the goodness of his machinery. It worked very well until it was found that the tail-race did not carry ofE the water fast enough, so he put his men to work in a rude way to clear out the tail-race. They scratched a kind of ditch down the middle of the dry channel, throwing the coarser stones to one side ; then, letting on the water again, it would run with velocity down the channel, wash- ing away the dirt, thus saving labor. This course of action was repeated several times, acting exactly like the long Tom after- ward resorted to by the miners. As Marshall himself was work- ing in this ditch, he observed particles of yellow metal which he gathered up in his hand, when it seemed to have suddenly flashed across his mind that it was gold. After picking up about an ounce, he hurried down to the fort to report to Captain Sutter his discovery. Captain Sutter himself related to me Marshall's account, saying that, as he sat in his room at the fort one day in February or March, 1848, a knock was heard at his door, and he called out, " Come in." In walked Marshall, who was a half-crazy man at best, but then looked strangely w^ild. " What is the matter, Marshall ? " Marshall inquired if any one was within hearing, and began to peer about the room, and look under the bed, when Sutter, fearing that some calamity had be- fallen the party up at the saw-mill, and that Marshall was really crazy, began to make his way to the door, demanding of Mar- shall to explain what w^as the matter. At last he revealed his discovery, and laid before Captain Sutter the pellicles of gold he had picked up in the ditch. At first, Sutter attached little or no importance to the discovery, and told Marshall to go
1846-'-i8.] EARLY RECOLLEOTIOXS OF CALIFORNIA. 51
back to the mill, and say notliing of what he had seen to his family, or any one else. Yet, as it might add value to the loca tion, he dispatched to our headquarters at Monterey, as I have already related, the two men with a written application for a preemption to the quarter-section of land at Coloma. Marshall returned to the mill, but could not keep out of his wonderful ditch, and by some means the other men employed there learned his secret. They then wanted to gather the gold, and Marshall threatened to shoot them if they attempted it ; but these men had sense enough to know that if " placer "-gold existed at Co- loma, it would also be found farther down-stream, and they gradually "prospected" until they reached Mormon Island, fifteen miles below, wdiere they discovered one of the richest placers on earth. These men revealed the fact to some other Mormons who were employed by Captain Sutter at a grist-mill he was building still lower down the American Fork, and six miles above his fort. All of them struck for higher wages, to which Sutter yielded, until they asked ten dollars a day, which he refused, and the two mills on which he had spent so much money were never built, and fell into decay.
In my opinion, w^hen the Mormons were driven from ]^au- y voo, Illinois, in 1844, they cast about for a land where they would not be disturbed again, and fixed on California. In the year 1845 a ship, the Brooklyn, sailed from New York for California, with a colony of Mormons, of which Sam Brannan was the leader, and we found them there on our arrival in Jan- uary, 1847. When General Kearney, at Fort Leavenworth, was collecting volunteers early in 1846, for the Mexican War, he, through the instrumentahty of Captain James Allen, brother to our quartermaster. General Kobert Allen, raised the battalion of Mormons at Kanesville, Iowa, now Council Bluffs, on the ex- press understanding that it would facilitate their migration to California. But when the Mormons reached Salt Lake, in 1846, they learned that they had been forestalled by the United States forces in California, and they then determined to settle down where they were. Therefore, when this battalion of ^ve com- panies of Mormons (raised by Allen, who died on the way, and
52 EAKLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORKIA. [1846-'48.
was succeeded by Cooke) was discliarged at Los Angeles, Cali- fornia, in the early summer of 1847, most of the men went to their people at Salt Lake, with all the money received, as pay from the United States, invested in cattle and breeding-horses ; one company reenlisted for another year, and the remainder sought work in the country. As soon as the fame of the gold dis- covery spread through Cahf ornia, the Mormons naturally turned to Mormon Island, so that in July, 1848, we found about three hundred of them there at work. Sam Brannan was on hand as the high-priest, collecting the tithes. Clark, of Clark's Point, one of the elders, was there also, and nearly all the Mormons who had come out in the Brooklyn, or who had staid in California after the discharge of their battalion, as herein related. I re- call the scene as perfectly to-day as though it were yesterday. In the midst of a broken country, all parched and dried by the hot sun of July, sparsely wooded with live-oaks and straggling pines, lay the valley of the American Biver, with its bold moun- tain-stream coming out of the Snowy Mountains to the east. In this valley is a flat, or gravel-bed, which in high water is an island, or is overflown, but at the time of our visit was simply a level gravel-bed of the river. On its edges men were digging, and filling buckets with the finer earth and gravel, which was carried to a machine made like a baby's cradle, open at the foot, and at the head a plate of sheet-iron or zinc, punctured full of holes. On this metallic plate was emptied the earth, and water was then poured on it from buckets, while one man shook the cradle with violent rocking by a handle. On the bottom were nailed cleats of wood. With this rude machine four men could earn from forty to one hundred dollars a day, averaging sixteen dollars, or a gold ounce, per man per day. "While the sun blazed down on the heads of the miners with tropical heat, the water was bitter cold, and all hands were either standing in the water or had their clothes wet all the time ; yet there were no complaints of rheumatism or cold. "We made our camp on a small knoh, a little below the island, and from it could overlook the busy scene. A few bush-huts nearby served as stores, board- ing-houses, and for sleeping ; but all hands slept on the ground,
1846-'48.] EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 53
with pine-leaves and blankets for bedding. As soon as tlie news spread that the Governor was there, persons came to see us, and volunteered all kinds of information, illustrating it by samples of the gold, which was of a uniform kind, " scale-gold," bright and beautiful. A large variety, of every conceivable shape and form, was found in the smaller gulches round about, but the gold in the river-bed was uniformly " scale-gold." I remember that Mr. Clark was in camp, talking to Colonel Mason about matters and things generally, when he inquired, " Governor, what busi- ness has Sam Brannan to collect the tithes here ? " Clark ad- mitted that Brannan was the head of the Mormon church in California, and he was simply questioning as to Brannan's right, as high-priest, to compel the Mormons to pay him the regular tithes. Colonel Mason answered, " Brannan has a per- fect right to collect the tax, if you Mormons are fools enough to pay it." " Then," said Clark, " I for one won't pay it any longer." Colonel Mason added : " This is public land, and the gold is the property of the United States ; all of you here are trespassers, but, as the Government is benefited by your getting out the gold, I do not intend to interfere." I understood, afterward, that from that time the payment of the tithes ceased, but Brannan had already collected enough money where- with to hire Sutter's hospital, and to open a store there, in which he made more money than any merchant in California, during that summer and fall. The understanding was, that the money collected by him as tithes was the foundation of his for- tune, which is still very large in San Francisco. That evening we all mingled freely with the miners, and witnessed the pro- cess of cleaning up and "panning" out, which is the last pro- cess for separating the pure gold from the fine dirt and black sand.
The next day we continued our journey up the valley of the American Fork, stopping at various camps, where mining was in progress ; and about noon we reached Coloma, the place where gold had been first discovered. The hills were higher, and the timber of better quality. The river was narrower and bolder, and but few miners were at work there, by reason of
54 EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [184G-'48.
MarslialPs and Sutter's claim to the site. There stood the saw- mill imfinished, the dam and tail-race just as they were left when the Mormons ceased work. Marshall and his family of wife and half a dozen tow-head children were there, guarding their supposed treasure ; living in a house made of clapboards. Here also we were shown many specimens of gold, of a coarser grain than that found at Mormon Island. The next day we crossed the American Kiver to its north side, and visited many small camps of men, in what were called the " dry diggings." Little pools of water stood in the beds of the streams, and these were used to wash the dirt ; and there the gold was in every conceivable shape and size, some of the specimens weighing several ounces. Some of these " diggings " were extremely rich, but as a whole they were more precarious in results than at the river. Sometimes a lucky fellow would hit on a " pocket," and collect several thousand dollars in a few days, and then again he would be shifting about from place to place, " pros- pecting," and spending all he had made. Little stores were being opened at every point, where flour, bacon, etc., were sold ; every thing being a dollar a pound, and a meal usually costing three dollars, l^obody paid for a bed, for he slept on the ground, without fear of cold or rain. We spent nearly a week in that region, and were quite bewildered by the fabulous tales of recent discoveries, which at the time were confined to the sev- eral forks of the American and Yuba Kivers. All this time our horses had nothing to eat but the sparse grass in that region, and we were forced to work our way down toward the Sacra- mento Yalley, or to see our animals perish. Still we contem- plated a visit to the Yuba and Feather Rivers, from which we had heard of more wonderful " diggings ; " but met a courier, who announced the arrival of a ship at Monterey, with dispatches of great importance from Mazatlan. "We accordingly turned our horses back to Sutter's Fort. Crossing the Sacramento again by swimming our horses, and ferrying their loads in that solitary canoe, we took our back track as far as the Napa, and then turned to Benicia, on Carquinez Straits. We found there a soli- tary adobe-house, occupied by Mr. Hastings and his family.
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 55
embracing Dr. Semple, tlie proprietor of tlie ferry. This ferry- was a ship's-boat, with a latteen-sail, which could carry across at one tide six or eight horses.
It took us several days to cross over, and during that time we got well acquainted with the doctor, who was quite a character. He had come to California from Illinois, and was brother to Senator Semple. He was about seven feet high, and very in- telligent. When we first reached Monterey, he had a printing- press, which belonged to the United States, having been cap- tured at the custom-house, and had been used to print custom- house blanks. With this Dr. Semple, as editor, prblished the Californian^ a small sheet of news, once a week ; and it was a curiosity in its line, using two 'y's for a w, and other combina- tions of letters, made necessary by want of type. After some time he removed to Yerba Buena with his paper, and it grew up to be the Alta California of to-day. Foreseeing, as he thought, the growth of a great city somewhere on the Bay of San Fran- cisco, he selected Carquinez Straits as its location, and obtained from General Yallejo a title to a league of land, on condition of building up a city thereon to bear the name of Yallejo's wife. This was Francisca Benicia ; accordingly, the new city was named " Francisca." At this time, the town near the mouth of the bay was known universally as Yerba Buena ; but that name was not known abroad, although San Francisco was familiar to the whole civilized world. JSTow, some of the chief men of Yerba Buena, Folsom, Howard, Leidesdorf, and others, know- ing the importance of a name, saw their danger, and, by some action of the ayuntamientOj or town council, changed the name of Yerba Buena to " San Francisco." Dr. Semple was outraged at their changing the name to one so like his of FrancisGa, and he in turn changed his town to the other name of Mrs. Yallejo, viz., " Benicia ; " and Benicia it has remained to this day. I am convinced that this little circumstance was big with consequences. That Benicia has the best natural site for a commercial city, I am satisfied ; and had half the money and half the labor since bestowed upon San Francisco been expended at Benicia, we should have at this day a city of palaces on the Carquinez
56 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
Straits. The name of " San Francisco/' however, fixed the city where it now is ; for every ship in 1848-49, which cleared from any part of the world, knew the name of San Francisco, but not Yerba Buena or Benicia ; and, accordingly, ships con- signed to California came pouring in with their contents, and were anchored in front of Yerba Buena, the first town. Cap- tains and crews deserted for the gold-mines, and now half the city in front of Montgomery Street is built over the hulks thus abandoned. But Dr. Semple, at that time, was all there was of Benicia ; he was captain and crew of his ferry-boat, and man- aged to pass our party to the south side of Carquinez Straits in about two days.
Thence we proceeded up Amador Yalley to Alameda Creek, and so on to the old mission of San Jose ; thence to the pueblo of San Jose, where Folsom and those belonging in Yerba Buena went in that direction, and we continued on to Monterey, our party all the way giving official sanction to the news from the gold-mines, and adding new force to the " fever."
On reaching Monterey, we found dispatches from Commo- dore Shubrick, at Mazatlan, which gave almost positive assur- ance that the war with Mexico was over ; that hostilities had ceased, and commissioners were arranging the terms of peace at Guadalupe Hidalgo. It was well that this news reached Cali- fornia at that critical time ; for so contagious had become the " gold-fever " that everybody was bound to go and try his fortune, and the volunteer regiment of Stevenson's would have deserted en masse, had the men not been assured that they would very soon be entitled to an honorable discharge.
Many of our regulars did desert, among them the very men who had escorted us faithfully to the mines and back. Our ser- vants also left us, and nothing less than three hundred dollars a month would hire a man in California ; Colonel Mason's black boy, Aaron, alone of all our then servants proving faithful. We were forced to resort to all manner of shifts to live. First, we had a mess with a black fellow we called Bustamente as cook ; but he got the fever, and had to go. We next took a soldier, but he deserted, and carried off my double-barreled shot-gun.
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CATJFORNIA. 57
whicli I prized very liiglilj. To meet this condition of facts, Colonel Mason ordered that liberal furloughs should be given to the soldiers, and promises to all in turn, and he allowed all the officers to draw their rations in kind. As the actual value of the ration was very large, this enabled us to live. Ilalleclv, Murray, Ord, and I, boarded with Dona Augustias, and turned in our rations as pay for our board.
Some time in September, 1848, the official news of the treaty of peace reached us, and the Mexican War was over. This treaty was signed in May, and came to us all the way by land by a courier from Lower California, sent from La Paz by Lieutenant- Colonel Burton. On its receipt, orders were at once made for the muster-out of all of Stevenson's regiment, and our military forces were thus reduced to the single company of dragoons at Los Angeles, and the one company of artillery at Monterey. Kearly all business had ceased, except that connected with gold ; and, during that fall. Colonel Mason, Captain Warner, and I, made another trip up to Sutter's Fort, going also to the newly-discovered mines on the Stanislaus, called " Sonora," named from the miners of Sonora, Mexico, who had first discov- ered them. We found there pretty much the same state of facts as before existed at Mormon Island and Coloma, and we daily received intelligence of the opening of still other mines north and south.
But I have passed over a very interesting fact. As soon as we had returned from our first visit to the gold-mines, it became important to send home positive knowledge of this valuable dis- covery. The means of communication with the United States were very precarious, and I suggested to Colonel Mason that a special courier ought to be sent ; that Second-Lieutenant Looser had been promoted to first - lieutenant, and was entitled to go home. He was accordingly detailed to carry the news. I prepared with great care the letter to the adjutant - general of August IT, 1848, which Colonel Mason modified in a few particulars ; and, as it was important to send not only the specimens which had been presented to us along our route of travel, I advised the colonel to allow Captain Folsom to pur-
58 EAELY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
chase and send to "Washington a large sample of the commercial gold in general use, and to pay for the same out of the money in his hands known as the " civil fund," arising from duties col- lected at the several ports in California. He consented to this, and Captain Folsom bought an oyster-can full at ten dollars the ounce, which was the rate of value at which it was then received at the custom-house. Folsom was instructed further to contract with some vessel to carry the messenger to South America, where he could take the English steamers as far east as Jamaica, with a conditional charter giving increased payment if the vessel could catch the October steamer. Folsom chartered the bark La Lam- bayecana, owned and navigated by Henry D. Cooke, who has since been the Governor of the District of Columbia. In due time this vessel reached Monterey, and Lieutenant Looser, with his report and specimens of gold, embarked and sailed. He reached the South American Continent at Payta, Peru, in time, took the English steamer of October to Panama, and thence went on to Kingston, Jamaica, where he found a sailing-vessel bound for New Orleans. On reaching JSTew Orleans, he tele- graphed to the War Department his arrival ; but so many de- lays had occurred that he did not reach Washington in time to have the matter embraced in the President's regular message of 1848, as we had calculated. Still, the President made it the subject of a special message, and thus became " official " what had before only reached the world in a very indefinite shape. Then began that wonderful development, and the great emigra- tion to California, by land and by sea, of 1849 and 1850.
As before narrated, Mason, Warner, and I, made a second visit to the mines in September and October, 1848. As the winter season approached. Colonel Mason returned to Monterey, and I remained for a time at Sutter's Fort. In order to share somewhat in the riches of the land, we formed a partnership in a store at Coloma, in charge of ISTorman S. Bestor, who had been Warner's clerk. We supplied the necessary money, fifteen hundred dollars (five hundred dollars each), and Bestor carried on the store at Coloma for his share. Out of this investment, each of us realized a profit of about fifteen hundred dollars.
1846-'48.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNLi. 59
Warner also got a regular leave of absence, and contracted with Captain Sutter for surveying and locating the town of Sacra- mento. He received for this sixteen dollars per day for his ser- vices as surveyor ; and Sutter paid all the hands engaged in the work. The town was laid off mostly up about the fort, but a few streets were staked o£E along the river-bank, and one or two leading to it. Captain Sutter always contended, however, that no town could possibly exist on the immediate bank of the river, because the spring freshets rose over the bank, and frequently it was necessary to swim a horse to reach the boat-landing, l^evertheless, from the very beginning the town began to be built on the very river -bank, viz.. First, Second, and Third Streets, with J and K Streets leading back. Among the prin- cipal merchants and traders of that winter, at Sacramento, were Sam Brannan and Hensley, Heading & Co. For several years the site was annually flooded ; but the people have persevered in building the levees, and afterward in raising all the streets, so that Sacramento is now a fine city, the capital of the State, and stands where, in 1848, was nothing but a dense mass of bushes, vines, and submerged land. The old fort has disap- peared altogether.
During the fall of 1848, Warner, Ord, and I, camped on the bank of the American River, abreast of the fort, at what was known as the " Old Tan- Yard." I was cook, Ord cleaned up the dishes, and Warner looked after the horses ; but Ord was de- posed as scullion because he would only wipe the tin plates with a tuft of grass, according to the custom of the country, whereas Warner insisted on having them washed after each meal with hot water. Warner was in consequence promoted to scullion, and Ord became the hostler. We drew our rations in kind from the commissary at San Francisco, who sent them up to us by a boat ; and we were thus enabled to dispense a generous hospi- tality to many a poor devil who otherwise would have had noth- ing to eat.
The winter of 1848-49 was a period of intense activity throughout California. The rainy season was unfavorable to the operations of gold-mining, and was very hard upon the thousands
CO EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1846-'48.
of houseless men and women wlio dwelt in the mountains, and even in the towns. Most of the natives and old inhabitants had returned to their ranches and houses ; yet there were not roofs enough in the country to shelter the thousands who had arrived by sea and by land. The news had gone forth to the whole civilized world that gold in fabulous quantities was to be had for the mere digging, and adventurers came pouring in blindly to seek their fortunes, without a thought of house or food. Yerba Buena had been converted into San Francisco. Sacra- mento City had been laid out, lots were being rapidly sold, and the town was being built up as an entrepot to the mines. Stock- ton also had been chosen as a convenient point for trading with the lower or southern mines. Captain Sutter was the sole pro- prietor of the former, and Captain Charles "Weber was the owner of the site of Stockton, which was as yet known as " French Camp."
CHAPTEE II.
EARLY KECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA (CONTINUED).
1849-1850.
The department headquarters still remained at Monterey, but, with the few soldiers, we had next to nothing to do. In midwinter we heard of the approach of a battalion of the Second Dragoons, nnder Major Lawrence Pike Graham, with Captains Pucker, Coutts, Campbell, and others, along. So exhausted were they by their long march from Upper Mexico that we had to send relief to meet them as they approached. When this command reached Los Angeles, it was left there as the garrison, and Captain A. J. Smith's company of the First Dragoons was brought up to San Francisco. We were also advised that the Second Infantry, Colonel B. Piley, would be sent out around Cape Horn in sailing-ships; that the Mounted Piiles, under Lieutenant- Colonel Loring, would march overland to Oregon ; and that Brigadier-General Persifer F. Smith would come out in chief command on the Pacific coast. It was also known that a contract had been entered into with parties in I^ew York and 'New Orleans for a monthly line of steamers from those cities to Cahfornia, via Panama. Lieutenant-Colonel Burton had come up from Lower California, and, as captain of the Third Artil- lery, he was assigned to command Company F, Third Artillery, at Monterey. Captain Warner remained at Sacramento, survey- ing; and Halleck, Murray, Ord, and I, boarded with Doiia Augustias. The season was unusually rainy and severe, but we passed the time with the usual round of dances and parties. The time fixed for the arrival of the mail-steamer was under- stood to be about January 1, 18J:9, but the day came and went
62 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50.
without any tidings of her. Orders were given to Captain Bur- ton to announce her arrival by firing a national salute, and each morning we listened for the guns from the fort. The month of January passed, and. the greater part of February, too. As was usual, the army officers celebrated the 22(i of February with a grand ball, given in the new stone school-house, which Alcalde Walter Colton had built. It was the largest and best hall then in California. The ball was really a handsome affair, and we kept it up nearly all night. The next morning we were at breakfast : present, Dona Augustias, and Manuelita, Halleck, Murray, and myself. We were dull and stupid enough until a gun from the fort aroused us, then another and another. " The steamer ! " exclaimed all, and, without waiting for hats or any thing, off we dashed. I reached the wharf hatless, but the dona sent my cap after me by a servant. The white puffs of smoke hung around the fort, mingled with the dense fog, which hid all the water of the bay, and well out to sea could be seen the black spars of some unknown vessel. At the wharf I found a group of soldiers and a small row-boat, which belonged to a brig at anchor in the bay. Hastily ordering a couple of willing soldiers to get in and take the oars, and Mr. Larkin and Mr. Hartnell asking to go along, we jumped in and pushed off. Steering our boat toward the spars, which loomed up above the fog clear and distinct, in about a mile we came to the black hull of the strange monster, the long-expected and most welcome steamer California. Her wheels were barely moving, for her pilot could not see the shore-line distinctly, though the hills and Point of Pines could be clearly made out over the fog, and occa- sionally a glimpse of some white walls showed where the town lay. A " Jacob's ladder " was lowered for us from the steamer, and in a minute I scrambled up on deck, followed by Larkin and Hartnell, and we found ourselves in the midst of many old friends. There was Canby, the adjutant-general, who was to take my place ; Charley Hoyt, my cousin ; General Persif er F. Smith and wife ; Gibbs, his aide-de-camp ; Major Ogden, of the Engineers, and wife ; and, indeed, many old Calif ornians, among them Alfred Eobinson, and Frank "Ward with his pretty bride.
1849-'50.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 63
Bj the time the ship was fairly at anchor we had answered a million of questions about gold and the state of the country ; and, learning that the ship was out of fuel, had informed the captain (Marshall) that there was abundance of pine- wood, but no willing hands to cut it ; that no man could be hired at less than an ounce of gold a day, unless the soldiers would volunteer to do it for some agreed-upon price. As for coal, there was not a pound in Monterey, or anywhere else in California. Vessels with coal were known to be en route around Cape Horn, but none had yet reached California.
The arrival of this steamer was the beginning of a new epoch on the Pacific coast ; yet there she lay, helpless, with- out coal or fuel. The native Californians, who had never seen a steamship, stood for days on the beach looking at her, with the universal exclamation, " Tan feo ! " — ^how ugly ! — and she was truly ugly when compared with the clean, well- sparred frigates and sloops-of-war that had hitherto been seen on the North Pacific coast. It was first supposed it would take ten days to get wood enough to prosecute her voyage, and there- fore all the passengers who could took up their quarters on shore. Major Canby relieved me, and took the place I had held so long as adjutant-general of the Department of Cahfornia. The time seemed most opportune for me to leave the service, as I had several splendid offers of employment and of partnership, and, accordingly, I made my written resignation ; but General Smith put his veto upon it, saying that he was to command the Division of the Pacific, while General Piley was to have the Department of California, and Colonel Loring that of Oregon. He wanted me as his adjutant-general, because of my familiarity with the country, and knowledge of its then condition. At the time, he had on his staff Gibbs as aide-de-camp, and Fitzgerald as quarter- master. He also had along with him quite a retinue of servants, hired with a clear contract to serve him for a whole year after reaching California, every one of whom deserted, except a young black fellow named Isaac. Mrs. Smith, a pleasant but delicate Louisiana lady, had a white maid-servant, in whose fidelity she had unbounded confidence ; but this girl was married to a
64: EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50.
perfect stranger, and oS before sbe had even landed in San Francisco. It was, therefore, finally arranged that, on the Cali- fornia, I was to accompany General Smith to San Francisco as his adjutant-general. I accordingly sold some of my horses, and arranged for others to go np by land ; and from that time I became fairly enlisted in the military family of General Persifer F. Smith.
I parted with my old commander. Colonel Mason, with sin- cere regret. To me he had ever been kind and considerate, and, while stern, honest to a fault, he was the very embodiment of the principle of fidelity to the interests of the General Govern- ment. He possessed a native strong intellect, and far more knowledge of the principles of civil government and law than he got credit for. In private and public expenditures he was extremely economical, but not penurious. In cases where the officers had to contribute money for parties and entertainments, he always gave a double share, because of his allowance of double rations. During our frequent journeys, I was always caterer, and paid all the bills. In settling with him he required a written statement of the items of account, but never disputed one of them. During our time, California was, as now, full of a bold, enterprising, and speculative set of men, who were en- gaged in every sort of game to make money. I know that Colonel Mason was beset by them to use his position to make a fortune for himself and his friends ; but he never bought land or town- lots, because, he said, it was his place to hold the public estate for the Government as free and unencumbered by claims as pos- sible ; and when I wanted him to stop the public-land sales in San Francisco, San Jose, etc., he would not ; for, although he did not believe the titles given by the alcaldes worth a cent, yet they aided to settle the towns and public lands, and he thought, on the whole, the Government would be benefited thereby. The same thing occurred as to the gold-mines. He never took a title to a town-lot, unless it was one, of no real value, from Alcalde Colton, in Monterey, of which I have never heard since. He did take a share in the store which Warner, Bestor, and I, opened at Coloma, paid his share of the capital, five hundred dollars,
1849-'o0.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 65
and received his share of the profits, fifteen hundred dollars. I think also he took a share in a venture to China with Larkin and others ; but, on leaving California, he was glad to sell out without profit or loss. In the stern discharge of his duty he made some hitter enemies, among them Henry M. Xaglee, who, in the news- papers of the day, endeavored to damage his fair fame. But, knowing him intimately, I am certain that he is entitled to all praise for having so controlled the aJffairs of the country that, when his successor arrived, all things were so disposed that a civil form of government was an easy matter of adjustment. Colonel Mason was relieved by General Riley some time in April, and left California in the steamer of the 1st May for Washington and St. Louis, where he died of cholera in the summer of 1849, and his body is buried in Bellefontaine Cemetery. His widow afterward married Major (since General) Don Carlos Buell, and is now living in Kentucky.
In overhauling the hold of the steamer California, as she lay at anchor in Monterey Bay, a considerable amount of coal was found under some heavy duplicate machinery. With this, and such wood as had been gathered, she was able to renew her voy- age. The usual signal was made, and we all w^ent on board.. About the 1st of March we entered the Heads, and anchored off San Francisco, near the United States line-of-battle-ship Ohio, Commodore T. Ap Catesby Jones. As was the universal cus- tom of the day, the crew of the California deserted her ; and she lay for months unable to make a trip back to Panama, as was expected of her. As soon as we reached San Francisco, the first thing was to secure an office and a house to live in. The weather was rainy and stormy, and snow even lay on the hills back of the Mission. Captain Folsom, the quartermaster, agreed to surrender for our office the old adobe custom-house, on the upper corner of the plaza, as soon as he could remove his papers and effects down to one of his warehouses on the beach ; and he also rented for us as quarters the old Hudson Bay Com- pany house on Montgomery Street, which had been used by Howard & Melius as a store, and at that very time they wero moving their goods into a larger brick building just completed 6
QQ EARLY RECOLLEOTIOlSrS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50.
for tliera. As these changes would take some time, General Smith and Colonel Ogden, with their wives, accepted the hos- pitality offered by Commodore Jones on board the Ohio. I opened the office at the custom-honse, and Gibbs, Fitzgerald, and some others of us, slept in the loft of the Hudson Bay Com- pany house until the lower part was cleared of Howard's store, after which General Smith and the ladies moved in. There we had a general mess, and the efforts at house-keeping were simply ludicrous. One servant after another, whom General Smith had brought from I^ew Orleans, with a solemn promise to stand by him for one whole year, deserted without a word of notice or explanation, and in a few days none remained but little Isaac. The ladies had no maid or attendants ; and the general, commanding all the mighty forces of the United States on the Pacific coast, had to scratch to get one good meal a day for his family ! He was a gentleman of iine social qualities, genial and gentle, and joked at every thing. Poor Mrs. Smith and Mrs. Ogden did not bear it so philosophically. Gibbs, Fitz- gerald, and I, could cruise around and find a meal, which cost three dollars, at some of the many restaurants which had sprung up out of red-wood boards and cotton lining ; but the general and ladies could not go out, for ladies were rara aves at that day in California. Isaac was cook, chamber-maid, and every thing, thoughtless of himseK, and struggling, out of the slim- mest means, to compound a breakfast for a large and hungry family. Breakfast would be announced any time between ten and twelve, and dinner according to circumstances. Many a time have I seen General Smith, with a can of preserved meat in his hands, going toward the house, take off his hat on meet- ing a negro, and, on being asked the reason of his politeness, he would answer that they were the only real gentlemen in Cali- fornia. I confess that the fidelity of Colonel Mason's boy " Aaron," and of General Smith's boy " Isaac," at a time when every white man laughed at promises as something made to be broken, has given me a kindly feeling of respect for the negroes, and makes me hope that they will find an honorable " status " in the jumble of affairs in which we now live. That was a dull,
18i9-'50.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CxVLIFORNIA. 67
liard winter in San Francisco ; tlie rains were heavy, and the mud fearfuL I have seen mnles stumble in the street, and drown in the liquid mud ! Montgomery Street had been filled up with brush and clay, and I always dreaded to ride on horse- back along it, because the mud was so deep that a horse's legs would become entangled in the bushes below, and the rider was likely to be thrown and dro^vned in the mud. The only side- walks were made of stepping-stones of empty boxes, and here and there a few planks with barrel-staves nailed on. All the town lay along Montgomery Street, from Sacramento to Jack- son, and about the plaza. Gambling was the chief occupation of the people. While they were waiting for the cessation of the rainy season, and for the beginning of spring, all sorts of houses were being put up, but of the most flimsy kind, and all were stores, restaurants, or gambling - saloons. Any room twenty by sixty feet would rent for a thousand dollars a month. I had, as my pay, seventy dollars a month, and no one would even try to hire a servant under three hundred dollars. Had it not been for the fifteen hundred dollars I had made in the store at Coloma, I could not have lived through the winter. About the 1st of April arrived the steamer Oregon ; but her captain (Pearson) knew what was the state of affairs on shore, and ran his steamer alongside the line-of-battle-ship Ohio at Saucelito, and obtained the privilege of leaving his crew on board as " pris- oners " until he was ready to return to sea. Then, discharging his passengers and getting coal out of some of the ships which had arrived, he retook his crew out of limbo and carried the first regular mail back to Panama early in April. In regular order arrived the third steamer, the Panama ; and, as the ves- sels were arriving with coal, the California was enabled to hire a crew and get off. From that time forward these three ships constituted the regular line of mail-steamers, which has been kept up ever since. By the steamer Oregon arrived out Major P. P. Hammond, J. M. Williams, James Blair, and others ; also the gentlemen who, with Major Ogden, were to compose a joint commission to select the sites for the permanent forts and navy- yard of Cahfornia. This commission was composed of Majors
68 EARLY EECOLLECTIOE'S OF CALIFORlSriA. [1849-'50.
Ogden, Smith, and Leadbetter, of the army, and Captains Golds- borough, Yan Brunt, and Blunt, of the navy. These officers, after a most careful study of the whole subject, selected Mare Island for the navy-yard, and " Benicia " for the storehouses and arsenals of the army. The Pacific Mail Steamship Company also selected Benicia as their depot. Thus was again revived the old struggle for supremacy of these two points as the site of the future city of the Pacific. Meantime, however, San Francisco had secured the name. About six hundred ships were anchored there without crews, and could not get away ; and there the city was^ and had to be.
iNTevertheless, General Smith, being disinterested and un- prejudiced, decided on Benicia as the point where the city ought to be, and where the army headquarters should be. By the Oregon there arrived at San Francisco a man who deserves mention here — Baron Steinberger. He had been a great cattle- dealer in the United States, and boasted that he had helped to break the United States Bank, by being indebted to it ^yq million dollars ! At all events, he was a splendid - looking fellow, and brought with him from Washington a letter to General Smith and another for Commodore Jones, to the effect that he was a man of enlarged experience in beef ; that the au- thorities in Washington knew that there existed in California large herds of cattle, which were only valuable for their hides and tallow ; that it was of great importance to the Government that this beef should be cured and salted so as to be of use to the army and navy, obviating the necessity of shipping salt- beef around Cape Horn. I know he had such a letter from the Secretary of "War, Marcy, to General Smith, for it passed into my custody, and I happened to be in Commodore Jones's cabin when the baron presented the one for him from the Secretary of the IS^avy. The baron was anxious to pitch in at once, and said that all he needed to start with were salt and bar- rels. After some inquiries of his purser, the commodore prom- ised to let him have the barrels with their salt, as fast as they were emptied by the crew. Then the baron explained that he could get a nice lot of cattle from Don Timoteo Murphy, at the
1849-'50.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 69
Mission of San Rafael, on the north side of the bay, but he could not get a boat and crew to handle them. Under the authority from the Secretary of the ISTavy, the commodore then promised him the use of a boat and crew, until he (the baron) could find and purchase a suitable one for himself. Then the baron opened the first regular butcher-shop in San Francisco, on the wharf about the foot of Broadway or Pacific Street, where we could buy at twenty-five or fifty cents a pound the best roasts, steaks, and cuts of beef, which had cost him nothing, for he never paid anybody if he could help it, and he soon cleaned poor Don Timoteo out. At first, every boat of his, in com- ing down from the San Rafael, touched at the Ohio, and left the best beefsteaks and roasts for the commodore, but soon the baron had enough money to dispense with the borrowed boat, and set up for himself, and from this small beginning, step by step, he rose in a few months to be one of the richest and most influential men in San Francisco ; but in his wild speculations he was at last caught, and became helplessly bank- rupt. He followed General Fremont to St. Louis in 1861, where I saw him, but soon afterward he died a pauper in one of the hospitals. When General Smith had his headquarters in San Francisco, in the spring of 1849, Steinberger gave dinners worthy any baron of old; and when, in after-years, I was a banker there, he used to borrow of me small sums of money in repayment for my share of these feasts ; and some- where among my old packages I hold one of his confidential notes for two hundred dollars, but on the whole I got off easily. I have no doubt that, if this man's history could be written out, it would present phases as wonderful as any of romance ; but in my judgment he was a dangerous man, without any true sense of honor or honesty.
Little by little the rains of that season grew less and less, and the hills once more became green and covered with flowers. It became perfectly evident that no family could live in San Fran- cisco on such a salary as Uncle Sam allowed his most favored ofiicials ; so General Smith and Major Ogden concluded to send their families back to the United States, and afterward we men-
70 EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50.
folks could take to camp and live on onr rations. The Second Infantry had arrived, and had been distributed, four companies to Monterey, and the rest somewhat as Stevenson's regiment had been. A. J. Smith's company df dragoons was sent up to Sonoma, whither General Smith had resolved to move our headquarters. On the steamer which sailed about May 1st (I think the California), we embarked, the ladies for home and we for Monterey. At Monterey we went on shore, and Colonel Mason, who meantime had been relieved by General Kiley, went on board, and the steamer departed for Panama. Of all that party I alone am alive.
General Eiley had, with his family, taken the house which Colonel Mason had formerly used, and Major Canby and wife had secured rooms at Alvarado's. Captain Kane was quarter- master, and had his family in the house of a man named Garner, near the redoubt. Burton and Company F were still at the fort ; the four companies of the Second Infantry were quartered in the barracks, the same building in which we had had our head- quarters; and the company officers were quartered in hired buildings near by. General Smith and his aide. Captain Gibbs, went to Larkin's house, and I was at my old rooms at Dona Augustias. As we intended to go back to San Francisco by land and afterward to travel a good deal. General Smith gave me the necessary authority to fit out the party. There happened to be several trains of horses and mules in tow^n, so I purchased about a dozen horses and mules at two hundred dollars a head, on account of the Quartermaster's Department, and we had them kept under guard in the quartermaster's corral.
I remember one night being in the quarters of Lieutenant Alfred Sully, where nearly all the officers of the garrison were assembled, listening to Sully's stories. Lieutenant Derby, " Squibob," was one of the number, as also Fred Steele, " E'eigh- bor " Jones, and others, when, just after " tattoo," the orderly- sergeants came to report the result of *^ tattoo" roll-call; one reported five men absent, another eight, and so on, until it be- came certain that twenty-eight men had deserted; and they were so bold and open in their behavior that it amounted to
1849-'50.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNLi. 71
defiance. They had deliberately slung their knapsacks and started for the gold-mines. Dr. Murray and I were the only ones present who were familiar with the country, and I ex- plained how easy they could all be taken by a party going out at once to Salinas Plain, where the country was so open and level that a rabbit could not cross without being seen ; that the deserters could not go to the mines without crossing that plain, and could not reach it before daylight. All agreed that the whole regiment would desert if these men were not brought back. Several ofiicers volunteered on the spot to go after them ; and, as the soldiers could not be trusted, it was useless to send any but ofiicers in pursuit. Some one went to report the affair to the adjutant-general, Canby, and he to Gen- eral Riley. I waited some time, and, as the thing grew cold, I thought it was given up, and went to my room and to bed.
About midnight I was called up and informed that there were seven officers willing to go, but the difficulty was to get horses and saddles. I went down to Larkin's house and got General Smith to consent that we migl^t take the horses I had bought for our trip. It was nearly three o'clock a. m. before we were all mounted and ready. I had a musket which I used for hunting. With this I led off at a canter, followed by the others. About six miles out, by the faint moon, I saw ahead of us in the sandy road some blue coats, and, fearing lest they might resist or escape into the dense bushes which lined the road, I halted and found with me Paymaster Hill, Captain IST. H. Davis, and Lieutenant John Hamilton. We waited some time for the others, viz., Canby, Murray, Gibbs, and Sully, to come up, but as they were not in sight we made a dash up the road and captured six of the deserters, who were Germans, with heavy knapsacks on, trudging along the deep, sandy road. They had not expected pursuit, had not heard our horses, and were accordingly easily taken. Finding myself the senior officer present, I ordered Lieutenant Hamilton to search the men and then to march them back to Monterey, sus- pecting, as was the fact, that the rest of our party had taken a road that branched off a couple of miles back. Daylight broke
72 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [I849-'50.
as we reached the Salinas Eiver, twelve miles out, and there the trail was broad and fresh leading directly out on the Salinas Plain. This plain is about five miles wide, and then the ground becomes somewhat broken. The trail continued very plain, and I rode on at a gallop to where there was an old adobe-ranch on the left of the road, with the head of a lagoon, or pond, close by. I saw one or two of the soldiers getting water at the pond, and others up near the house. I had the best horse and was considerably ahead, but on looking back could see Hill and Davis coming up behind at a gallop. I motioned to them to hurry forward, and turned my horse across the head of the pond, knowing the ground well, as it was a favorite place for shooting geese and ducks. Approaching the house, I ordered the men who were outside to go in. They did not know me personally, and exchanged glances, but I had my musket cocked, and, as the two had seen Davis and Hill coming up pretty fast, they obeyed. Dismounting, I found the house full of deserters, and there was no escape for them. They naturally supposed that I had a strong party with me, and when I ordered them to " fall in " they obeyed from habit. By the time Hill and Davis came up I had them formed in two ranks, the front rank facing about, and I was taking away their bayonets, pistols, etc. We disarmed them, destroying a musket and several pistols, and, on counting them, we found that we three had taken eighteen, which, added to the six first captured, made twenty-four. We made them sling their knapsacks and begin their homeward march. It was near night when we got back, so that these deserters had traveled nearly forty miles since " tattoo " of the night before. The other party had captured three, so that only one man had escaped. I doubt not this prevented the desertion of the bulk of the Second Infantry that spring, for at that time so demoral- izing was the effect of the gold-mines that everybody not in the military service justified desertion, because a soldier, if free, could earn more money in a day than he received per month. Not only did soldiers and sailors desert, but captains and masters of ships actually abandoned their vessels and cargoes to try their luck at the mines. Preachers and professors forgot their creeds
1849-'50.] EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 73
and took to trade, and even to keeping gambling-houses. I re- member that one of our regular soldiers, named Reese, in de- serting stole a favorite double-barreled gun of mine, and when the orderly-sergeant of the company, Carson, was going on fur- lough, I asked him when he came across Keese to try and get my gun back. When he returned he told me that he had found Keese and offered him a hundred dollars for my gun, but Reese sent me word that he liked the gun, and would not take a hun- dred dollars for it. Soldiers or sailors who could reach the mines were universally shielded by the miners, so that it was next to useless to attempt their recapture. In due season Gen- eral Persifer Smith, Gibbs, and I, with some hired packers, started back for San Francisco, and soon after we transferred our headquarters to Sonoma. About this time Major Joseph Hooker arrived from the East — the regular adjutant-general of the division — relieved me, and I became thereafter one of Gen- eral Smith's regular aides-de-camp.
As there was very little to do. General Smith encouraged us to go into any business that would enable us to make money. R. P. Hammond, James Blair, and I, made a contract to survey for Colonel J. D. Stevenson his newly-projected city of " ITew York of the Pacific," situated at the mouth of the San Joaquin River. The contract embraced, also, the making of soundings and the marking out of a channel through Suisun Bay. We hired, in San Francisco, a small metallic boat, with a sail, laid in some stores, and proceeded to the United States ship Oliio, anchored at Saucelito, where we borrowed a sailor -boy and lead-lines with which to sound the channel. We sailed up to Benicia, and, at General Smith's request, we surveyed and marked the line dividing the city of Benicia from the govern- ment reserve. We then sounded the bay back and forth, and staked out the best channel up Suisun Bay, from which Blair made out sailing directions. We then made the preliminary surveys of the city of " Kew York of the Pacific," all of which were duly plotted ; and for this work we each received from Stevenson -Q.Ye hundred dollars and ten or fifteen lots. I sold enough lots to make up another ^vq hundred dollars, and let
74 EARLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50.
tlie balance go ; for tlie city of " New York of tlie Pacific " never came to anything. Indeed, cities at the time were be- ing projected by speculators all round tlie bay and all over the country.
"While we were surveying at " ISTew York of the Pacific," occurred one of those little events that showed the force of the gold-fever. We had a sailor-boy with us, about seventeen years old, who cooked our meals and helped work the boat. On shore, we had the sail spread so as to shelter us against the wind and dew. One morning I awoke about daylight, and looked out to see if our sailor-boy was at work getting breakfast ; but he was not at the fire at all. Getting up, I discovered that he had converted a tule-lolsa into a sail-boat, and was sailing for the gold-mines. He was astride this lolsa^ with a small parcel of bread and meat done up in a piece of cloth ; another piece of cloth, such as we used for making our signal-stations, he had fixed into a sail ; and with a paddle he was directing his precarious craft right out into the broad bay, to follow the general direction of the schoon- ers and boats that he knew were ascending the Sacramento Piver. He was about a hundred yards from the shore. I jerked up my gun, and hailed him to come back. After a moment's hesitation, he let go his sheet and began to paddle back. This l)olsa was nothing but a bundle of tule^ or buUrush, bound to- gether w^ith grass-ropes in the shape of a cigar, about ten feet long and about two feet through the butt. With these the Cal- ifornia Indians cross streams of considerable size. When he came ashore, I gave him a good overhauling for attempting to desert, and put him to work getting breakfast. In due time we returned him to his ship, the Ohio.
Subsequently, I made a bargain with Mr. Hartnell to survey his ranch at Cosumnes Piver, Sacramento Yalley. Ord and a young citizen, named Seton, were associated with me in this. I bought of Podman M. Price a surveyor's compass, chain, etc., and, in San Francisco, a small wagon and harness. Availing ourselves of a schooner, chartered to carry Major Miller and two companies of the Second Infantry from San Prancisco to Stock- ton, we got up to our destination at little cost. I recall an oe
1849-'50.] EARLY RECOLLECTIOISrS OF CALIFORNIA. 75
currence tliat happened when the schooner was anchored in Car- quinez Straits, opposite the soldiers' camp on shore. We were waiting for daylight and a fair wind ; the schooner lay anchored at an ebb-tide, and about daylight Ord and I had gone ashore for something. Just as we were pulling off from shore, we heard the loud shouts of the men, and saw them all running down toward the water. Our attention thus drawn, we saw some- thing swimming in the water, and pulled toward it, thinking it a coyote ; but we soon recognized a large grizzly bear, swimming directly across the channel. Not having any weapon, we hur- riedly pulled for the schooner, calling out, as we neared it, " A bear ! a bear ! " It so happened that Major Miller was on deck, washing his face and hands. He ran rapidly to the bow of the vessel, took the musket from the hands of the sentinel, and fired at the bear, as he passed but a short distance ahead of the schooner. The bear rose, made a growl or howl, but continued his course. As we scrambled up the port-side to get our guns, the mate, with a crew, happened to have a boat on the starboard-side, and, armed only with a hatchet, they pulled up alongside the bear, and the mate struck him in the head with the hatchet. The bear turned, tried to get into the boat, but the mate struck his claws with repeated blows, and made him let go. After several passes with him, the mate actually killed the bear, got a rope round him, and towed him alongside the schooner, where he was hoisted on deck. The carcass weighed over six hundred pounds. It was found that Major Miller's shot had struck the bear in the lower jaw, and thus disabled him. Had it not been for this, the bear would certainly have upset the boat and drowned all in it. As it was, however, his meat served us a good turn in our trip up to Stockton. At Stockton we disembarked our wagon, provisions, and instruments.
There I bought two fine mules at three hundred dollars each, and we hitched up and started for the Cosumnes Hiver. About twelve miles off was the Mokelumne, a wide, bold stream, with a canoe as a ferry-boat. We took our wagon to pieces, and fer- ried it and its contents across, and then drove our mules into the water. In crossing, one mule became entangled in the rope of
76 EARLY EECOLLECTIOITS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50.
the other, and for a time we thought he was a gone mule ; but at last he revived and we hitched up. The mules were both pack-animals ; neither had ever before seen a wagon. Young Seton also was about as green, and had never handled a mule. "We put on the harness, and began to hitch them in, when one of the mules turned his head, saw the wagon, and started. We held on tight, but the beast did not stop until he had shivered the tongue-pole into a dozen fragments. The fact was, that Seton had hitched the traces before he had put on the blind- bridle. There was considerable swearing done, but that would not mend the pole. There was no place nearer than Sutter's Fort to repair damages, so we were put to our wits' end. We first sent back a mile or so, and bought a raw-hide. Gathering up the fragments of the pole and cutting the hide into strips, we fished it in the rudest manner. As long as the hide was green, the pole was very shakj ; but gradually the sun dried the hide, tightened it, and the pole actually held for about a month. This cost us nearly a day of delay ; but, when damages were repaired, we harnessed up again, and reached the crossing of the Co- sumnes, where our survey was to begin. The expediente, or title- papers, of the ranch described it as containing nine or eleven leagues on the Cosumnes, south side, and between the San Joa- quin Kiver and Sierra Kevada Mountains. We began at the place where the road crosses the Cosumnes, and laid down a line four miles south, perpendicular to the general direction of the stream ; then, surveying up the stream, we marked each mile so as to admit of a subdivision of one mile by four. The land was dry and very poor, with the exception of here and there some small pieces of bottom-land, the great bulk of the bottom-land occurring on the north side of the stream. We continued the survey up some twenty miles into the hills above the mill of Dailor and Sheldon. It took about a month to make this survey, which, when finished, was duly plotted ; and for it we received one-tenth of the land, or two subdivisions. Ord and I took the land, and we paid Seton for his labor in cash. By the sale of my share of the land, subsequently, I realized three thousand dollars. After finishing Hartnell's survey, we crossed over to
1849-'50.] EAELY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 77
Dailor's, and did some work for him at ^ye hundred dollars a day for the party. Having finished our work on the Cosumnes, we proceeded to Sacramento, where Captain Sutter employed us to connect the survey of Sacramento City, made by Lieutenant Warner, and that of Sutterville, three miles below, which was then being surveyed by Lieutenant J. W. Davidson, of the First Dragoons. At Sutterville, the plateau of the Sacramento ap- proached quite near the river, and it would have made a better site for a town than the low, submerged land where the city now stands ; but it seems to be a law of growth that all natural ad- vantages are disregarded wherever once business chooses a loca- tion. Old Sutter's embarGadevo became Sacramento City, simply because it was the first point used for unloading boats for Sut- ter's Fort, just as the site for San Francisco was fixed by the use of Yerba Buena as the hide-landing for the Mission of " San Francisco de Asis."
I invested my earnings in this survey in three lots in Sacra- mento City, on which I made a fair profit by a sale to one McISTulty, of Mansfield, Ohio. I only had a two months' leave of absence, during which General Smith, his staff, and a retinue of civil friends, were making a tour of the gold-mines, and hearing that he was en route back to his headquarters at So- noma, I knocked off my work, sold my instruments, and left my wagon and mules with my cousin Charley Hoyt, who had a store in Sacramento, and was on the point of moving up to a ranch, for which he had bargained, on Bear Creek, on which was afterward established Camp " Far West." He afterward sold the mules, wagon, etc., for me, and on the whole I think I cleared, by those two months' work, about six thousand dol- lars. I then returned to headquarters at Sonoma, in time to attend my fellow aide-de-camp Gibbs through a long and dan- gerous sickness, during which he was on board a store-ship, guarded by Captain George Johnson, who now resides in San Francisco. General Smith had agreed that on the first good opportunity he would send me to the United States as a bearer of dispatches, but this he could not do until he had made the examination of Oregon, which was also in his com-
78 EARLY RECOLLECTIOKS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50-
mand. During the summer of 18-19 there continued to pour into California a perfect stream of people. Steamers came, and a line was established from San Francisco to Sacramento, of which the Senator was the pioneer, charging sixteen dollars a passage, and actually coining money. Other boats were built, out of materials which had either come around Cape Horn or were brought from the Sandwich Islands. Wharves were built, houses were springing up as if by magic, and the Bay of San Francisco presented as busy a scene of life as any part of the world. Major Allen, of the Quartermaster's Department, who had come out as chief-quartermaster of the division, was building a large warehouse at Benicia, with a row of quarters, out of lum- ber at one hundred dollars per thousand feet, and the work was done by men at sixteen dollars a day. I have seen a detailed soldier, who got only his monthly pay of eight dollars a month, and twenty cents a day for extra duty, nailing on weather-boards and shingles, alongside a citizen who was paid sixteen dollars a day. This was a real injustice, made the soldiers discontented, and it was hardly to be wondered at that so many deserted. While the mass of people were busy at gold and in mammoth speculations, a set of busy politicians were at work to secure the prizes of civil government. Gwin and Fremont were there, and T. Butler King, of Georgia, had come out from the East, scheming for office. He staid with us at Sonoma, and was gen- erally regarded as the Government candidate for United States Senator. General Biley as Governor, and Captain Halleck as Secretary of State, had issued a proclamation for the election of a convention to frame a State constitution. In due time the elections were held, and the convention was assembled at Mon- terey. Dr. Semple was elected president; and Gwin, Fre- mont, Halleck, Butler King, Sherwood, Gilbert, Shannon, and others, were members. General Smith took no part in this convention, but sent me down to watch the proceedings, and report to him. The only subject of interest was the slavery question. There were no slaves then in California, save a few who had come out as servants, but the Southern people at that time claimed their share of territory, out of that acquired by
1849-'50.] EARLY EECOLLEOTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 79
the common labors of all sections of the Union in tlie war with Mexico. Still, in California there was little feeling on the sub- ject. I never heard General Smith, who was a Louisianian, express any opinion about it. I:Tor did Butler King, of Geor- gia, ever manifest any particular interest in the matter. A committee was named to draft a constitution, which in due time w^as reported, with the usual clause, then known as the "Wilmot Proviso, excluding slavery ; and during the debate which ensued very little opposition was made to this clause, which was finally adopted by a large majority, although the convention was made up in large part of men from our Southern States. This mat- ter of California being a free State, afterward, in the national Congress, gave rise to angry debates, which at one time threat- ened civil war. The result of the convention was the election of State officers, and of the Legislature which sat in San Jose in October and November, 1849, and which elected Fremont and Gwin as the first United States Senators in Congress from the Pacific coast.
Shortly after returning from Monterey, I was sent by Gen- eral Smith up to Sacramento City to instruct Lieutenants War- ner and Williamson, of the Engineers, to push their surveys of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for the purpose of ascertaining the possibility of passing that range by a railroad, a subject that then elicited universal interest. It was generally assumed that such a road could not be made along any of the immigrant roads then in use, and Warner's orders were to look farther north up the Feather Piver, or some one of its tributaries. Warner was engaged in this survey during the summer and fall of 1849, and had explored, to the very end of Goose Lake, the source of Feath- er Piver. Then, leaving Williamson with the baggage and part of the men, he took about ten men and a first-rate guide, crossed the summit to the east, and had turned south, having the range of mountains on his right hand, with the intention of regaining his camp by another pass in the mountain. The party was strung out, single file, with wide spaces between, Warner ahead. He had just crossed a small valley and ascended one of the spurs covered with sage-brush and rocks, when a band of In-
80 EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-'50.
dians rose up and poured in a sliower of arrows. The mnle turned and ran back to the valley, where "Warner fell off dead, punctured by five arrows. The mule also died. The guide, who was next to AYarner, was mortally wounded; and one or two men had arrows in their bodies, but recovered. The party gathered about Warner's body, in sight of the Indians, who whooped and yelled, but did not venture away from their cover of rocks. This party of men remained there all day with- out bur}dng the bodies, and at night, by a wide circuit, passed the mountain, and reached "Williamson's camp. The news of Warner's death cast a gloom over all the old Calif omians, who knew him well. He was a careful, prudent, and honest officer, well qualified for his business, and extremely accurate in all his work. He and I had been intimately associated during our four years together in California, and I felt his loss deeply. The season was then too far advanced to attempt to avenge his death, and it was not until the next spring that a party was sent out to gather up and bury his scattered bones.
As winter approached, the immigrants overland came pour- ing into California, dusty and worn with their two thousand miles of weary travel across the plains and mountains. Those who arrived in October and ISTovember reported thousands still behind them, with oxen perishing, and short of food. Appeals were made for help, and General Smith resolved to at- tempt relief. Major Kucker, who had come across with Pike Graham's Battalion of Dragoons, had exchanged with Major Fitzgerald, of the Quartermaster's Department, and was de- tailed to conduct this relief. General Smith ordered him to be supplied with one hundred thousand dollars out of the civil fund, subject to his control, and with this to purchase at Sac- ramento flour, bacon, etc., and to hire men and mules to send out and meet the immigrants. Major Bucker fulfilled this duty perfectly, sending out pack-trains loaded with food by the many routes by which the immigrants were known to be approaching, went out himself with one of these trains, and remained in the mountains until the last immigrant had got in. JSTo doubt this expedition saved many a life which has since been most useful
1849-'50.] EARLY REOOLLECTIOKS OF CALIFORNIA. 81
to tlie country. I remained at Sacramento a good part of the fall of 1849, recognizing among tlie immigrants many of my old personal friends — John C. Fall, William King, Sam Stambaugh, Hugh Ewing, Hampton Denman, etc. I got Rucker to give these last two employment along with the train for the relief of the immigrants. They had proposed to begin a ranch on my land on the Cosumnes, but afterward changed their minds, and went out with Eucker.
While I was at Sacramento General Smith had gone on his 3ontemplated trip to Oregon, and promised that he would be back in December, when he would send me home with dispatches. Accordingly, as the winter and rainy season was at hand, I went to San Francisco, and spent some time at the Presidio, waiting patiently for General Smith's return. About Christmas a vessel arrived from Oregon with the dispatches, and an order for me to deliver them in person to General Winfield Scott, in ISTew York City. General Smith had sent them down, remaining in Oregon for a time. Of course I was all ready, and others of our set were going home by the same conveyance, viz., Eucker, Ord, A. J. Smith — some under orders, and the others on leave. Wanting to see my old friends in Monterey, I arranged for my passage in the steamer of January 1, 1850, paying six hundred dollars for passage to IsTew York, and went down to Monterey by land, Rucker accompanying me. The weather was unusually rainy, and all the plain about Santa Clara was under water ; but we reached Monterey in time. I again was welcomed by my friends. Dona Augustias, Manuelita, and the family, and it was resolved that I should take two of the boys home with me and put them at Georgetown College for education, viz., Antonio and Porfirio, thirteen and eleven years old. The doiia gave me a bag of gold- dust to pay for their passage and to deposit at the college. On the 2d day of January punctually appeared the steamer Oregon. We were all soon on board and off for home. At that time the steamers touched at San Diego, Acapulco, and Panama. Our passage down the coast was unusually pleasant. Arrived at Panama, we hired mules and rode across to Gorgona, on the Cruces Eiver, where we hired a boat and paddled down to the 6
82 EAELY RECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. [1849-^50.
montli of tlie river, off which lay the steamer Crescent City. It usnally took four days to cross the isthmus, every passenger taking care of himself, and it was really funny to watch the efforts of women and men unaccustomed to mules. It was an old song to us, and the trip across was easy and interesting. In due time we were rowed off to the Crescent City, rolling back and forth in the swell, and we scrambled aboard by a " Jacob's ladder " from the stern. Some of the women had to be hoisted aboard by lowering a tub from the end of a boom ; fun to us who looked on, but awkward enough to the poor women, es- pecially to a very fat one, who attracted much notice. General Fremont, wife and child (Lillie) were passengers with us down from San Francisco ; but Mrs. Fremont not being well, they re- mained over one trip at Panama.
Senator Gwin was one of our passengers, and went through to ISTew York. "We reached !N"ew York about the close of Jan- uary, after a safe and pleasant trip. Our party, composed of Ord, A. J. Smith, and Eucker, with the two boys, Antonio and Porfirio, put up at Delmonico's, on Bowling Green ; and, as soon as we had cleaned up somewhat, I took a carriage, went to General Scott's office in JSTinth Street, delivered my dispatches, was ordered to dine with him next day, and then went forth to hunt up my old friends and relations, the Scotts, Hoyts, etc., etc.
On reaching New York, most of us had rough soldier's cloth- ing, but we soon got a new outfit, and I dined with General Scott's family, Mrs. Scott being present, and also their son-in- law and daughter (Colonel and Mrs. H. L. Scott). The general questioned me pretty closely in regard to things on the Pacific coast, especially the politics, and startled me with the asser- tion that " our country was on the eve of a terrible civil war." He interested me by anecdotes of my old army comrades in his recent battles around the city of Mexico, and I felt deeply the fact that our country had passed through a foreign war, that my comrades had fought great battles, and yet I had not heard a hostile shot. Of course, I thought it the last and only chance in my day, and that my career as a soldier was at an end. After some four or five days spent in J^ew York, I was, by
1849-'50.] EAKLY EECOLLECTIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 83
an order of General Scott, sent to "Wasliington, to lay before the Secretary of War (Crawford, of Georgia) the dispatches which I had brought from California. On reaching Wash- ington, I found that Mr. Ewing was Secretary of the Interior, and I at once became a member of his family. The family occupied the house of Mr. Blair, on Pennsylvania Avenue, directly in front of the War Department. I immediately re- paired to the War Department, and placed my dispatches in the hands of Mr. Crawford, who questioned me somewhat about California, but seemed little interested in the subject, except so far as it related to slavery and the routes through Texas. I then went to call on the President at the White House. I found Major Bliss, who had been my teacher in mathematics at West Point, and was then General Taylor's son-in-law and private secretary. He took me into the room, now used by the President's private secretaries, where President Taylor was. I had never seen him before, though I had served under him in Florida in 1840-41, and was most agreeably surprised at his fine personal appear- ance, and his pleasant, easy manners. He received me with great kindness, told me that Colonel Mason had mentioned my name with praise, and that he would be pleased to do me any act of favor. We were with him nearly an hour, talking about Cali- fornia generally, and of his personal friends, Persifer Smith, Piley, Canby, and others. Although General Scott was gener- ally regarded by the army as the most accomplished soldier of the Mexican War, yet General Taylor had that blunt, honest, and stern character, that endeared him to the masses of the peo- ple, and made him President. Bliss, too, had gained a large fame by his marked skill and intelligence as an adjutant-general and military adviser. His manner was very unmilitary, and in his talk he stammered and hesitated, so as to make an unfavor- able impression on a stranger ; but he was wonderfully accurate and skillful with his pen, and his orders and letters form a model of military precision and clearness.
CHAPTEK III.
MISSOURI, LOUISIANA, AND CALIFOKNIA.
1850-1855.
Having returned from California in January, 1850, witli dispatclies for the War Department, and having delivered them in person first to General Scott in 'New York City, and afterward to the Secretary of War (Crawford) in Washington City, I applied for and received a leave of absence for six months. I first visited my mother, then living at Mansfield, Ohio, and returned to Washington, where, on the 1st day of May, 1850, I was married to Miss Ellen Boyle Ewing, daughter of the Hon. Thomas Ewing, Secretary of the Interior. The marriage ceremony was attended by a large and distinguished company, embracing Daniel Webster, Henry Clay, T. H. Benton, President Taylor, and all his cabinet. This occurred at the house of Mr. Ewing, the same now owned and occupied by Mr. F. P. Blair, senior, on Pennsylvania Avenue, opposite the War Department. We made a wedding-tour to Baltimore, New York, Niagara, and Ohio, and returned to Washington by the 1st of July. General Taylor participated in the celebration of the Fourth of July, a very hot day, by hearing a long speech from the Hon. Henry S. Foote, at the base of the Washington Monument. Peturning from the celebration much heated and fatigued, he partook too freely of his favorite iced milk with cherries, and during that night was seized with a severe colic, which by morning had quite prostrated him. It was said that he sent for his son-in-law. Surgeon Wood, United States Army, stationed in Baltimore, and declined medical assistance from
1850-'55.] MISSOUEI, LOUISIANA, CALIFORNIA. 85
anybody else. Mr. Ewing visited liim several times, and was manifestly nneasy and anxious, as was also his son-in-law, Ma- jor Bliss, then of the army, and his confidential secretary. He rapidly grew worse, and died in about four days.
At that time there was a high state of political feeling per- vading the country, on account of the questions growing out of the new Territories just acquired from Mexico by the war. Congress was in session, and General Taylor's sudden death evidently created great alarm. I was present in the Senate-gal- lery, and saw the oath of office administered to the Yice-Presi- dent, Mr. Fillmore, a man of splendid physical proportions and commanding appearance ; but on the faces of Senators and peo- ple could easily be read the feelings of doubt and uncertainty that prevailed. All knew that a change in the cabinet and general policy was likely to result, but at the time it was sup- posed that Mr. Fillmore, whose home w^as in Buffalo, would be less liberal than General Taylor to the politicians of the South, who feared, or pretended to fear, a crusade against slavery ; or, as was the political cry of the day, that slavery would be prohib- ited in the Territories and in the places exclusively under the jurisdiction of the United States. Events, however, proved the, contrary.
I attended General Taylor's funeral as a sort of aide-de- camp, at the request of the Adjutant-General of the army, Koger Jones, whose brother, a militia-general, commanded the escort, composed of militia and some regulars. Among the regulars I recall the names of Captains John Sedgwick and W. F. Barry.
Hardly was General Taylor decently buried in the Congres- sional Cemetery when the political struggle recommenced, and it became manifest that Mr. Fillmore favored the general com- promise then known as Henry Clay's " Omnibus Bill," and that a general change of cabinet would at once occur. Webster was to succeed Mr. Clayton as Secretary of State, Corwin to succeed Mr. Meredith as Secretary of the Treasury, and A. H. H. Stuart to succeed Mr. Ewing as Secretary of the Interior. Mr. Ewing, however, was immediately appointed by the Governor of the State to succeed Corwin in the Senate. These changes made it
86 " MISSOUEI, LOUISIAKA, CALIFOENIA. [1850-'o5.
necessary for Mr. Ewing to discontinue lionse-keeping, and Mr. Cor win took liis house and furniture off his hands. I escorted the family out to their home in Lancaster, Ohio ; but, before this had occurred, some most interesting debates took place in the Senate, which I regularly attended, and heard Clay, Benton, Foote, King of Alabama, Dayton, and the many real orators of that day. Mr. Calhoun was in his seat, but he was evidently ap- proaching his end, for he was pale and feeble in the extreme. I heard Mr. "Webster's last speech on the floor of the Senate, under circumstances that warrant a description. It was publicly known that he was to leave the Senate, and enter the new cab- inet of Mr. Fillmore, as his Secretary of State, and that prior to leaving he was to make a great speech on the " Omnibus Bill." Resolved to hear it, I went up to the Capitol on the day named, an hour or so earlier than usual. The speech was to be dehvered in the old Senate-chamber, now used by the Supreme Court. The galleries were much smaller than at present, and I found them full to overflowing, with a dense crowd about the door, struggling to reach the stairs. I could not get near, and then tried the reporters' gallery, but found it equally crowded ; so I feared I should lose the only possible opportunity to hear Mr. "Webster.
I had only a limited personal acquaintance with any of the Senators, but had met Mr. Corwin quite often at Mr. Ewing's house, and I also knew that he had been extremely friendly to my father in his lifetime ; so I ventured to send in to him my card, "W. T. S., First-Lieutenant, Third Artillery." He came to the door promptly, when I said, "Mr. Corwin, I be- lieve Mr. Webster is to speak to-day." His answer was, " Yes, he has the floor at one o'clock." I then added that I was ex- tremely anxious to hear him. " Well," said he, " why don't you go into the gallery ? " I explained that it was full, and I had tried every access, but found all jammed with people. " Well," said he, " what do you want of me ? " I explained that I would like him to take me on the floor of the Senate ; that I had often seen from the gallery persons on the floor, no better entitled to it than I. He then asked in his quizzical way, "Are you a
1850-'55.] MISSOURI, LOUISIAITA, CALIFORNIA. 87
foreign embassador ? " " N^o." " Are you tlie Governor of a State ? " " E"o." " Are you a member of the other House ? " " Certainly not." " Have you ever had a vote of thanks by name ? " " No." " Well, these are the only privileged mem- bers." I then told him he knew well enough who I was, and that if he chose he could take me in. He then said, "Have you any impudence ? " I told him, " A reasonable amount if occasion called for it." " Do you think you could become so interested in my conversation as not to notice the door-keeper?" (pointing to him). I told him that there was not the least doubt of it, if he would tell me one of his funny stories. He then took my arm, and led me a turn in the vestibule, talking about some in- different matter, but all the time directing my looks to his left hand, toward which he was gesticulating with his right ; and thus we approached the door-keeper, who began asking me, " Foreign embassador? Governor of a State? Member of Congress?" etc. ; but I caught Corwin's eye, which said plainly, " Don't mind him, pay attention to me," and in this way we entered the Senate-chamber by a side-door. Once in, Corwin said, "]l^ow you can take care of yourself," and I thanked him cordially. I found a seat close behind Mr. Webster, and near General Scott, and heard the whole of the speech. It was heavy in the extreme, and I confess that I was disappointed and tired long before it was finished. 'No doubt the speech was full of fact and argument, but it had none of the fire of oratory, or intensity of feeling, that marked all of Mr. Clay's efforts.
Toward the end of July, as before stated, all the family went home to Lancaster. Congress was still in session, and the bill adding four captains to the Commissary Department had not passed, but was reasonably certain to, and I was equally sure of being one of them. At that time my name was on the mus- ter-roll of (Light) Company C, Third Artillery (Bragg's), sta- tioned at Jefferson Barracks, near St. Louis. But, as there was cholera at St. Louis, on application, I was permitted to delay joining my company until September. Early in that month, I proceeded to Cincinnati, and thence by steamboat to St. Louis, and then to Jefferson Barracks, where I reported
88 MISSOURI, LOUISIAN"A, CALIFORNIA. [1850-'65.
for duty to Captain and Brevet-Colonel Braxton Bragg, com- manding (Light) Company C, Third Artillery. The other offi- cers of the company were First-Lientenant Hackaliah Brown and Second-Lieutenant James A. Hardie. ^N'ew horses had just been purchased for the battery, and we were preparing for work, when the mail brought the orders announcing the passage of the bill increasing the Commissary Department by four captains, to which were promoted Captains Shiras, Blair, Sherman, and Bowen. I was ordered to take post at St. Louis, and to relieve Captain A. J. Smith, First Dragoons, who had been acting in that capacity for some months. My commission bore date September 27, 1850. I proceeded forthwith to the city, relieved Captain Smith, and entered on the discharge of the duties of the office.
Colonel 1^. S. Clarke, Sixth Infantry, commanded the de- partment ; Major D. C. Buell was adjutant-general, and Captain "VV. S. Hancock was regimental quartermaster ; Colonel Thomas Swords was the depot quartermaster, and we had our offices in the same building, on the corner of Washington Avenue and Second. Subsequently Major S. Yan Yliet relieved Colonel Swords. I remained at the Planters' House until my family arrived, when we occupied a house on Chouteau Avenue, near Twelfth.
During the spring and summer of 1851, Mr. Ewing and Mr. Henry Stoddard, of Dayton, Ohio, a cousin of my father, were much in St. Louis, on business connected with the estate of Major Amos Stoddard, who was of the old army, as early as the beginning of this century. He was stationed at the village of St. Louis at the time of the Louisiana purchase, and when Lewis and Clarke made their famous expedition across the continent to the Columbia Eiver. Major Stoddard at that early day had purchased a small farm back of the village, of some Spaniard or Frenchman, but, as he was a bachelor, and was killed at Fort Meigs, Ohio, during the War of 1812, the title was for many years lost sight of, and the farm was covered over by other claims and by occupants. As St. Louis began to grow, his brothers and sisters, and their descendants, concluded to look up
1850-'55.] MISSOURI, LOUISIAlSrA, CALIFORNIA. 89
the property. After mncli and fruitless litigation, they at last retained Mr. Stoddard, of Dayton, who in turn employed Mr. Ewing, and these, after many years of labor, established the title, and in the summer of 1851 they were put in possession by the United States marshal. The ground was laid off, the city sur- vey extended over it, and the whole was sold in partition. I made some purchases, and acquired an interest, which I have re- tained more or less ever since.
We continued to reside in St. Louis throughout the year 1851, and in the spring of 1852 I had occasion to visit Fort Leavenworth on duty, partly to inspect a lot of cattle which a Mr. Gordon, of Cass County, had contracted to deliver in I^ew Mexico, to enable Colonel Sumner to attempt his scheme of making the soldiers in 'New Mexico self-supporting, by raising their own meat, and in a measure their own vegetables. I found Fort Leavenworth then, as now, a most beautiful spot, but in the midst of a wild Indian country. There were no whites settled in what is now the State of Kansas. Weston, in Missouri, was the great town, and speculation in town-lots there and there- about burnt the fingers of some of the army-officers, who wanted to plant their scanty dollars in a fruitful soil. I rode on horseback over to Gordon's farm, saw the cattle, concluded the bargain, and returned by way of Independence, Missouri. At Independence I found F. X. Aubrey, a noted man of that day, who had just made a celebrated ride of six hundred miles in six days. That spring the United States quartermaster, Major L. C. Fasten, at Fort Union, New Mexico, had occasion to send some message east by a certain date, and contracted with Aubrey to carry it to the nearest post-office (then Inde- pendence, Missouri), making his compensation conditional on the time consumed. He was supplied with a good horse, and an order on the outgoing trains for an exchange. Though the whole route was infested with hostile Indians, and not a house on it, Aubrey started alone with his rifle. He was fortunate in meeting several outward-bound trains, and there- by made frequent changes of horses, some four or 'G.Ye, and reached Independence in six days, having hardly rested or slept
90 MISSOURI, LOUISIANA, CALIFORmA. [1850--'55.
the whole way. Of course, he was extremely fatigued, and said there was an opinion among the wild Indians that if a man " sleeps out his sleep," after such extreme exhaustion, he will never awake ; and, accordingly, he instructed his landlord to wake him up after eight hours of sleep. When aroused at last, he saw by the clock that he had been asleep twenty hours, and he was dreadfully angry, threatened to murder his landlord, who protested he had tried in every way to get him up, but found it impossible, and had let him " sleep it out." Aubrey, in describing his sensations to me, said he took it for granted he was a dead man ; but in fact he sustained no ill effects, and was o£E again in a few days. I met him afterward often in California, and always esteemed him one of the best samples of that bold race of men who had grown up on the Plains, along with the Indians, in the service of the fur companies. He was afterward, in 1856, killed by K. C. "Weightman, in a bar-room row, at Taos, JSTew Mexico, where he had just arrived from California.
In going from Independence to Fort Leavenworth, I had to swim Milk Creek, and sleep all night in a Shawnee camp. The next day I crossed the Kaw or Kansas River in a ferry-boat, maintained by the blacksmith of the tribe, and reached the fort in the evening. At that day the whole region was un- settled, where now exist many rich counties, highly cultivated, embracing several cities of from ten to forty thousand in- habitants. From Fort Leavenworth I returned by steamboat to St. Louis.
In the summer of 1852, my family went to Lancaster, Ohio; but I remained at my post. Late in the season, it was rumored that I was to be transferred to l^ew Orleans, and in due time I learned the cause. During a part of the Mexican War, Major Seawell, of the Seventh Infantry, had been acting commissary of subsistence at "New Orleans, then the great depot of supplies for the troops in Texas, and of those operating beyond the Eio Grande. Commissaries at that time were allowed to purchase in open market, and were not restricted to advertising and awarding contracts to the
1850-'55.] MISSOURI, LOmSIA:N"A, CALIFORNIA. 91
lowest bidders. It was reported that Major Seawell had pur- chased largely of the house of Perry Seawell & Co., Mr. Sea- well being a relative of his. "When he was relieved in his duties by Major Waggaman, of the regular Commissary Depart- ment, the latter found Perry Seawell & Co. so prompt and satisfactory that he continued the patronage ; for which there w^as a good reason, because stores for the use of the troops at re- mote posts had to be packed in a particular way, to bear trans- portation in wagons, or even on pack-mules ; and this firm had made extraordinary preparations for this exclusive purpose. Some time about 1849, a brother of Major Waggaman, who had been clerk to Captain Casey, commissary of subsistence, at Tam- pa Bay, Florida, was thrown out of office by the death of the captain,, and he naturally applied to his brother in 'New Orleans for employment ; and he, in turn, referred him to his friends, Messrs. Perry Seawell & Co. These first employed him as a clerk, and afterward admitted him as a partner. Thus it re- sulted, in f act^ that Major Waggaman was dealing largely, if not exclusively, with a firm of which his brother was a partner.
One day, as General Twiggs was coming across Lake Pont- chartrain, he fell in with one of his old cronies, who was an extensive grocer. This gentleman gradually led the conversation to the downward tendency of the times since he and Twiggs were young, saying that, in former years, all the merchants of New Orleans had a chance at government patronage ; but now, in order to sell to the army commissary, one had to take a brother in as a partner. General Twiggs resented this, but the merchant again affirmed it, and gave names. As soon as General Twiggs reached his office, he instructed his - adjutant-general, Colonel Bliss — who told me this — to address a categorical note of inquiry to Major Waggaman. The major very frankly stated the facts as they had arisen, and insisted that the firm of Perry Seawell & Co. had enjoyed a large patronage, but deserved it richly by reason of their promptness, fairness, and fidelity. The correspondence w^as sent to Washington, and the result was, that Major Waggaman was ordered to St. Louis, and I was ordered to New Orleans.
92 MISSOURI, LOUISIAN'A, CALIFORNIA. [1850-'55.
I went down to New Orleans in a steamboat in the montli of September, 1852, taking with me a clerk, and, on arrival, as- sumed the office, in a bank-building facing Lafayette Square, in which were the offices of all the army departments. General D. Twiggs was in command of the department, with Colonel "W. W. S. BKss (son-in-law of General Taylor) as his adjutant-gen- eral. Colonel A. C. Myers was quartermaster, Captain John F. Eeynolds aide-de-camp, and Colonel A. J. Coffee paymaster. I took rooms at the St. Louis Hotel, kept by a most excellent gentleman. Colonel Mudge.
Mr. Perry Seawell came to me in person, soliciting a contin- uance of the custom which he had theretofore enjoyed; but I told him frankly that a change was necessary, and I never saw or heard of him afterward. I simply purchased in open market, arranged for the proper packing of the stores, and had not the least difficulty in supplying the troops and satisfying the head of the department in Washington.
About Christmas, I had notice that my family, consisting of Mrs. Sherman, two children, and nurse, with my sister Fanny (now Mrs. Moulton, of Cincinnati, Ohio), were en route for New Orleans by steam-packet ; so I hired a house on Magazine Street, and furnished it. Almost at the moment of their arrival, also came from St. Louis my personal friend Major Turner, with a parcel of documents, which, on examination, proved to be articles of copartnership for a bank in California under the title of " Lucas, Turner & Co.," in which my name was embraced as a partner. Major Turner was, at the time, actu- ally en route for New York, to embark for San Francisco, to inaugurate the bank, in the nature of a branch of the firm already existing at St. Louis under the name of "Lucas & Symonds." We discussed the matter very fully, and he left with me the papers for reflection, and went on to New York and California.
Shortly after arrived James II. Lucas, Esq., the principal of the banking-firm in St. Loais, a most honorable and wealthy gentleman. He further explained the full programme of the branch in California ; that my name had been included at the
1850-'55.] MISSOURI, LOUISIANA, CALIFORNIA. 93
instance of Major Turner, who was a man of family and prop- erty in St. Louis, unwilling to remain long in San Francisco, and wlio wanted me to succeed him there. He offered me a very tempting income, with an interest that would accumulate and grow. He also disclosed to me that, in establishing a branch in California, he was influenced by the apparent prosperity of Page, Bacon & Co., and further that he had received the principal data, on which he had founded the scheme, from B. K. i^isbet, who was then a teller in the firm of Page, Bacon & Co., of San Francisco ; that he also was to be taken in as a partner, and was fully competent to manage all the details of the busi- ness ; but, as Msbet was comparatively young, Mr. Lucas wanted me to reside in San Francisco permanently, as the head of the firm. All these matters were fully discussed, and I agreed to apply for a six months' leave of absence, go to San Francisco, see for myself, and be governed by appearances there. I accord- ingly, with General Twiggs's approval, applied to the adjutant- general for a six months' leave, which was granted ; and Cap- tain John F. Peynolds was named to perform my duties during my absence.
During the stay of my family in ISTew Orleans, we en- joyed the society of the families of General Twiggs, Colonel Myers, and Colonel Bliss, as also of many citizens, among whom was the wife of Mr. Day, sister to my brother-in-law. Judge Bartley. General Twiggs was then one of the oldest officers of the army. His history extended back to the War of 1812, and he had served in early days with General Jackson in Florida and in the Creek campaigns. He had fine powers of descrip- tion, and often entertained us, at his office, with accounts of his experiences in the earlier settlements of the Southwest. Colonel Bliss had been General Taylor's adjutant in the Mexi- can "War, and was universally regarded as one of the most fin- ished and accomplished scholars in the army, and his wife was a most agreeable and accomplished lady.
Late in February, I dispatched my family up to Ohio in the steamboat Tecumseh (Captain Pearce) ; disposed of my house and furniture ; turned over to Major Eeynolds the funds, prop-
94: MISSOURI, LOUISIANA, CALIFORNIA. [1850-'55.
ertj, and records of the office ; and took passage in a small steamer for ]^icaragua, en route for California. We embarked early in March, and in seven days reached Greytown, where we united with the passengers from IS'ew York, and proceeded, by the ^Nicaragua Eiver and Lake, for the Pacific Ocean.
The river was low, and the little steam canal-boats, four in number, grounded often, so that the passengers had to get into the water, to help them over the bars. In all there were about six hundred passengers, of whom about sixty were women and children. In four days we reached Castillo, where there is a decided fall, passed by a short railway, and above this fall we were transferred to a larger boat, which carried us up the rest of the river, and across the beautiful lake Nicaragua, studded with volcanic islands. Landing at Virgin Bay, we rode on mules across to San Juan del Sur, where lay at anchor the propeller S. S. Lewis (Captain Partridge, I think). Passengers were carried through the surf by natives to small boats, and rowed off to the Lewis. The weather was very hot, and quite a scramble followed for state-rooms, especially for those on deck. I succeeded in reaching the purser's office, got my ticket for a berth in one of the best state-rooms on deck, and, just as I was turning from the window, a lady who was a fellow-passenger
from New Orleans, a Mrs. D , called to me to secure her and
her lady-friend berths on deck, saying that those below were un- endurable. I spoke to the purser, who, at the moment perplexed by the crowd and clamor, answered : " I must put their names down for the other two berths of your state-room ; but, as soon as the confusion is over, I will make some change whereby you shall not suffer." As soon as these two women were assigned to a state-room, they took possession, and I was left out. Their names were recorded as " Captain Sherman and ladies." As soon as things were quieted down I remonstrated with the purser, who at last gave me a lower berth in another and larger state- room on deck, with ^yq others, so that my two ladies had the state-room all to themselves. At every meal the steward would come to me and say, " Captain Sherman, will you bring your ladies to the tabled' and we had the best seats in the ship.
1850-'55.] MISSOUEI, LOUISIA^-A, CALIFORNIA. 95
This continued throiigliout the voyage, and I assert that " my ladies " were of the most modest and best-behaved in the ship ; but some time after we had reached San Francisco one of our fellow-passengers came to me and inquired if I personally knew
Mrs. D 5 with flaxen tresses, who sang so sweetly for us,
and who had come out under my especial escort. I replied I did not, more than the chance acquaintance of the voyage, and what she herself had told me, viz., that she expected to meet her husband, who lived about Mokelumne Hill. He then informed me that she was a w^oman of the town. Society in
California was then decidedlv mixed.
«/
In due season the steamship Lewis got under weigh. She was a wooden ship, long and narrow, bark-rigged, and a propeller ; very slow, moving not over eight miles an hour. We stopped at Acapulco, and, in eighteen days, passed in sight of Point Pinos at Monterey, and at the speed we were travehng expected to reach San Francisco at 4 a. m. the next day. The cabin- passengers, as was usual, bought of the steward some cham- pagne and cigars, and we had a sort of ovation for the captain, purser, and surgeon of the ship, who were all very clever fellows, though they had a slow and poor ship.
Late at night all the passengers went to bed, expecting to enter the port at daylight. I did not undress, as I thought the captain could and would run in at night, and I lay down with my clothes on. About 4 a. m. I was awakened by a bump and sort of grating of the vessel, which I thought was our arri- val at the wharf in San Francisco; but instantly the ship struck heavily ; the engines stopped, and the running to and fro on deck showed that something was wrong. In a moment I was out of my state-room, at the bulwark, holding fast to a stanchion, and looking over the side at the white and seething water caused by her sudden and violent stoppage. The sea was comparatively smooth, the night pitch-dark, and the fog deep and impenetrable ; the ship would rise with the swell, and come down with a bump and quiver that was decidedly unpleasant. Soon the passengers were out of their rooms, undressed, calling for help, and praying as though the ship w^ere going to sink im-
96 MISSOURI, LOUISIANA, CALIFORNIA. [1850-'55.
mediately. Of course slie could not sink, being already on the bottom, and the only question was as to the strengh of hull to stand the bumping and straining. Great confusion for a time prevailed, but soon I realized that the captain had taken all proper precautions to secure his boats, of which there were six at the davits. These are the first things that steerage-passengers make for in case of shipwreck, and right over my head I heard the captain's voice say in a low tone, but quite decided : " Let go that falls, or, damn you, I'll blow your head off ! " This seem- ingly harsh language gave me great comfort at the time, and on saying so ta the captain afterward, he explained that it was ad- dressed to a passenger who attempted to lower one of the boats. Guards, composed of the crew, were soon posted to prevent any interference with the boats, and the officers circulated among the passengers the report that there was no immediate danger ; that, fortunately, the sea was smooth; that we were simply agi'ound, and must quietly await daylight.
They advised the passengers to keep quiet, and the ladies and children to dress and sit at the doors of their state-rooms, there to await the advice and action of the officers of the ship, who were perfectly cool and self-possessed. Meantime the ship was working over a reef — for a time I feared she would break in two; but, as the water gradually rose inside to a level with the sea outside, the ship swung broadside to the swell, and all her keel seemed to rest on the rock or sand. At no time did the sea break over the deck — but the water below drove all the people up to the main-deck and to the promenade-deck, and thus we remained for about three hours, when daylight came ; but there was a fog so thick that nothing but w^ater could be seen. , The captain caused a boat to be carefully lowered, put in her a trustworthy officer with a boat-compass, and we saw her depart into the fog. During her absence the ship's bell was kept tolling. Then the fires were all out, the ship full of water, and gradually breaking up, wTiggling with every swell like a willow basket — the sea all round us full of the floating frag- ments of her sheeting, twisted and torn into a spongy condition. In less than an hour the boat returned, saying that the beach
1850-'55.] MISSOURI, LOUISIANA, CALIFORNIA. 97
was quite near, not more than a mile away, and had a good place for landing. All tlie boats were tlien carefully lowered, and manned by crews belonging to the ship; a piece of the gangway, on the leeward side, was cut away, and all the women, and a few of the worst-scared men, were lowered into the boats, which pulled for shore. In a comparatively short time the boats returned, took new loads, and the debarkation was after- ward carried on quietly and systematically. JSTo baggage was allowed to go on shore except bags or parcels carried in the hands of passengers. At times the fog lifted so that we could see from the wreck the tops of the hills, and the outline of the shore ; and I remember sitting on the upper or hurricane deck with the captain, who had his maps and compass before him, and was trying to make out where the ship was. I thought I recognized the outline of the hills below the mission of Dolores, and so stated to him ; but he called my attention to the fact that the general line of hills bore northwest, whereas the coast south of San Francisco bears due north and south. He therefore con- cluded that the ship had overrun her reckoning, and was then to the north of San Francisco. He also explained that, the passage up being longer than usual, viz., eighteen days, the coal was short ; that at the time the firemen were using some cut-up spars along with the slack of coal, and that this fuel had made more than usual steam, so that the ship must have glided along faster than reckoned. This proved to be the actual case, for, in fact, the steamship Lewis was wrecked April 9, 1853, on "Duck- worth Heef," Baulinas Bay, about eighteen miles above the en- trance to San Francisco.
The captain had sent ashore the purser in the first boat, with orders to work his way to the city as soon as possible, to re- port the loss of his vessel, and to bring back help. I remained on the wreck till among the last of the passengers, managing to get a can of crackers and some sardines out of the submerged pantry, a thing the rest of the passengers did not have, and then I went quietly ashore in one of the boats. The passengers were all on the beach, under a steep bluff; had built fires to dry their clothes, but had seen no human being, and had no idea 7
98 MISSOURI, LOUISIANA, CALIFORNIA. [1850-'55.
wliere they were. Taking along with me a fellow-passenger, a young chap about eighteen years old, I scrambled up the bluff, and walked back toward the hills, in hopes to get