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REFERENCE BOOK
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Copyriglit, 187;", by Henry T. Wimaius.
PALAUE-CAK LIKK ON JIIE PACIFIC KAILROAD.
•••
OF TRJS.VEL,
FHii.M
The Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean.
CONTAINIXO FULL DESCHII'TIOXS ItK
KAII.1!()A1> HOl'TKS ACROSS TIIK CONTINENT, ALL I'LKASrKK HKSOUTS ANI> I'LAl KS OF MOST
XOTKD SCKNKKV IN TIIK KAK WKST, ALSO OK ALL CITIKS, TOWNS, VILLAGES,
U. S. KOKTS, SI'KINGS, LAKES, MOUNTAINS,
ROUTES OK SUMMER TRAVEL, HKST LOCALITIES FOR HUNTING, FISHING, SPORTING, AND ENJOY- MENT, WITH ALL NKKDKUL INKOICMATION FOR TIIK I'LKASURE TRAVELER, MINER, SETTLER, OR BUSINESS MAN.
A COMPLETE TRAVELER'S GUIDE
or
^to million ixml €mtxnl ^^uxific Jluilroads.
AXD ALL POINTS OF nfSIXESS OR PLEASIUE TIIAVEL TO CALIKORNIA, COI.ORAPO, NKIIR ASK A, W YOM ING. UTAH, NEVADA, MONTANA, THE MINES AND MINING OK TIIK TKRIMTORIKS, TIIK LANDS OK THE PACIFIC COAST, THE WONDERS OF TIIK ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE SCENERY OF THE SIERRA NEVADA8, THE COL- ORADO MOl'NTAINS, THE BIG TRKKS, THE GEYSERS, THE YOSEMITE, AND THE YELLOWSTONE.
BY
HENRY T. WILLIAMS, Editor.
WlXn SPEriAL CONTnilUTIONS BY
Prof. F. V. IIAYDEX, rLAHKNCE KlXd, Capt. DrTTOX. A. C. T'KALE, JOAQT-TN MILLKU, .1. H. DAVIS, F. K. SIlKAIlEli.
ILU'STRATIDNS Iir
THOMAS MORAX, A. C WARREX. W. SXVDKU. V. SCIIEEE. II. W. TKOV, A. WILL.
ex(;ravin(;.s hy .mkedkk .^ (iinui. Price, $1.50 Railroad Edition, Flexible Covers, 320 pp. " ' $2.00 Full Cloth, Stiff Covers, 352 pp.
NEW YOKK:
HENRY T. WILLIAMS, PUBLISHER.
1S7U.
The Clark W. Bryan Co , Priiitore, Rlocirolypers and Binders, Springfield, M« SAN FRAMCISOO PUBLIC UBRA^r
11, PREFACE.
824
RfiFERENCe
:^BW FIELDS OF TBATFL,
Since the opening of the Pacific Raihoad, there has been developed, not only an immense field of mining industry, but many new and remarkable Places of Wonderful Scenery and Pleasure Travel. Tlie Attractions of the Rocky Mountains and Sierras have become world famous, and Regions un- known five or ten years ago/have been discovered which far transcend the liveliest imagination in their scenic beauty, and glorious enjoyment. Those who have ever crossed the Continent once in enjoyment of the Scenery of the Far West or in search of Health, can now return to the same line of travel, and spend their entire time in visiting Resorts, Mountains, Lakes, Springs, Canons, which were unknown before, but now are so easily accessible that an entire Summer can be spent in new and delightful fields of travel.
The Yellowstone,— with all its glories of Springs, Geysers, Jets, and the million of its fan-y- like colors, and fountains is now open for Tourists, by a new Route, so easily accessible, that a journey is no more made with effort, but with ease. The recent extension of the Utah Northern Railroad from Ogden, Utah, to Montana, almost to the border of the Yellowstone Park, now opens this wonderful Park and its scenery to the world
The Colorado Moantahts. — New Routes of Pleasure Travel in Colorado have also been opened, with still more wonderful scenery. The Veta Pass, the highest railroad point in America, with its views of the Spanish Peaks, has been brought to notice by the extension of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, also the Grandeur of the Mountains and Lakes of the Sun Juan Mining R'<(iu)n. Tlie wonderful richness of the mines at Leaaville, exceeding the riches of any hitherto known, are hardly greater than the beauties of the scenery, by which it is reached either from Canon City, or Denver, or Georgetown. By the opening of the Colorado Central Railroad, easy access is given to the wonders of Clear Creek Canon, the Ascent of Grays J'eak, the MiiUlle Park, the Hot Sulphur Springs, the Beauties of Esles Park and Long's Peak, all of which are of remarkable interest.
The New Biff Trees. — By the opening of the new Stage Route via Madera, there is given a new Route to the Yosemite, including a visit to another group of Big Trees, of as great celebiity as any yet discovered.
Arizona. — By the extension of the Southern Pacific Railroad into Arizona, is opened a new world of mineral richness, and Silver Wealth.
Vleasare Reports of Southern California. — The Health and Pleasure Resorts of Southern California, and the Sea Coast Sanitariums, are made more accessible than ever, by the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad and its branches.
Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Santa Monica, Santa Cruz, San Bernardino, all made more easy of access and doubly attractive as Healtli Resorts.
Mount Shasta. — The wonderful scenery around Mount Shasta and in Northern California, are now open for tourists, via the California and Oregon Railroad, — a new Region of unusual beauty.
()ref/on. — The Attractions of Oregon, and Washington Territory, are now easily reached, and the " New Empire of the North West " invites a world of Tourists, and offers Homes for settlers.
The Sprin.f/H of California, — are becoming widely known. Near Clear Luke are new regions of travel, and the invalid can rejoice in healing virtues and a new climate.
A full record of the wonders reached by the Pacific Railroads, it is difficult to condense into small compass. The ;J50 or 400 pages of this volume, have alreadv required for the Editor and his Assistants, over ten years travel, and ?"20 000 in cost. This volume is before the Tourist as the result of this expenditure of time and money. To its pages special assistance has been given by the most eminent travelers and Governmental Explorers of tlie day.
l*rofessor F. F. Hai/den, — the celebrated leader of the United States Geological Exploring Expedition, has contributed special assistance in the work of making this Guide complete, and written an admirable account for Tourists of the Wonders of the Yellowstone. Clarence King has also given a description of the Shoshone Falls.
Thomas Moron, who more than any other artist has drawn sketches of the Wonders of the West, and Ali)ert Bierstadt the most celebrated of painters of American Scenery, have each added to the Guide rich embellishments and illustrations.
Wishing every Traveler the utmost joy in his Tour, and a happy " voyage,"
I am sincerely,
HENRY T. WILLIAMS, Editor.
^^^<l
i^knsnrcs lof
Wonders of Scenery of the Rocky Mountains,
PACIFIC COAST AND THE PACIFIC RAIL ROAD.
TiiK prnndpst of Amprican scpiiery borders th*? inagiiifioeiit route of tli«; Pacific Railroads. Since their complt-tioii, tlie glorious vi<nvs of mountain grandeur in The Ym'e'iiitc, The Yellow- stone, have liecniiie known. The sublimities of Ci>lnr<i(lt), the liocki) MDunlahis, canons of L'tah, anil the Sierra Nei-dilus, have become famous. Tlie attractions of the Far West for mining, stock raising and agriculture have added mil- lions of wealth ami pojiuhuion.
The glorious mountain climate, famed for its invigorating effects have attracted tourists and In-alth seekers from the whole world. The golden land of California, its seaside pleasure resorts, its fertile grain fields, fruit gardens and flowers, have given irresistible charms to visitors; until now, a tour across the Continent opens to the traveler a succe.ssion of scenes, worthy the efforts of a life time to behold.
Industries have arisen by the oin-ning of this great trans-continental line which were never ex- jHJcted or dreamed of by the projectoi-s ; the richest of mineral discoveries and the most en-
couraging of agricultural settlements have alike resulted, where little was thought of, an<l stran- gest of all, the tide of travel from Europe to Asia. China. Japan and the distant i>les of the Pacific Ocean, now crosses the American Conti- nent, with far more sj>eed and grt-ater safety.
J*(iiarf Car Uf'e on thr J'ari/ir liiiil- roful, — In no part of the world is travel made .so easy and comfortable a.s on the Pacific Kail- road. To travelers from the Eiust it is a con- stant delight, and to ludies and families it is accomj^aniedwiih absolutely no fatigue or discom- fort One lives at home in the Palac-e Car with as much true enjoyment as in the home draw inij- room. ami with the constant change of scenes afforded froni the car window, it is far more en- joyable than the sahon of a fa.>*hionable hteanier. For an entire week or more, as the train leisurely cro-.ses the Continent, the little section and l>erth allotted to you. so neat and clean, so nicely fur- nished and kept. l>ecomes your home. Here you sit ami re.itl. i>lay your games, indulge in social conversation and glee, and if fortunate enough to
6
TME ^^€IFia F&w^isr.
possess good company of friends to join you, the overland tour becomes an intense delight.
The sleeping-cars from New York to Chicago, proceeding at "their rushing rate of forty or more miles per hour, give to travelers no idea of the true comfort of Pullman car life. Indeed the first thousand miles of the journey to Chicago or St. Louis has more tedium and wearisomeness, aud dust and inconvenience than all the rest of the journey. Do not judge of the whole trip by these first "^days out. From Chicago westward to Omaha the cars are far finer, and traveling more luxurious, likewise the rate of speed is slower and the motion of the train more easy than on roads farther east.
At Omaha, as you view the long Pacific train just ready to leave the dejwt for its overland trip, (often over 600 feet in length), giving an appear- ance of strength, massiveness and majestic power, you can but admit it is exceedingly beautiful and impressive ; this feeling is still more intensified when a day or so later, alone out upon the upland plains, with no living object in sight, as you stand at a little distance and look down upon the long train, it seems the handsomest work of science ever made for the comfort of earth's people.
The slow rate of speed, which averages but sixteen to twenty miles per hour, day and night, produces a peculiarly smooth, gentle and easy motion, most soothing and agreeable. The straight track, which for hundreds of miles is without a cun'e, avoids all swinging motions of the cars ; sidelong bumps are unknown. The cars are connected with the ]\liller buifer and platform, and make a solid train, without the dis- comforts of jerks and jolts. And the steady, easy jog of the train, as it leisurely moves west- ward, gives a feeling of genuine comfort, such as no one ever feels or enjoys in any other part of the world.
A Pulhnan Pacific car train in motion is a grand and beautiful sight too, from within as well as from without. On some lovely, balmy, sum- mer day, when the fresh breezes across the prai- ries induce us to open our doors and windows, there may often be seen curious and pleasant siglits. Standing at the rear of the train, and with all doors open, there is an unol)structed view iilong the aisles throughout the entire length. On eith(!r side of the train, are the prairies, where the eye sees but wildness, and even desolation, then looking back upon this long aisle or avenue, he s(ies civilization and comfort and luxury. How sharp the contrast. The first day's ride over the Pacific Railroad westward, is a short one to nightfall, but it carries one through the beautiful undulating prairies of eastern Nebraska, the best settled portions of the State, where are its finest homes aiul richest soil. 0)>ening sud- denly into the broad and ever grand Valley of the Platte, the rich luxuriant meadow-grass, in
the warmth of the afternoon sun, make even the most desixjnding or prosaic feel there is beauty in prairie life.
On the second day out, the traveler is fast ascending the high plains and summits of the Rocky Mountains. The little villages of praiiie dogs interest and amuse every one. Then come in sight the distant summits of Long's Peak and the Colorado Mountains. Without scarcely ask- ing the cause, the tourist is full of glow and enthusiasm. He is alive with enjoyment, and yet can scarcely tell why. The great plains themselves seem full of interest.
Ah ! It is this keen, beautiful, refreshing, oxygenated, invigorating, toning, beautiful, en- livening mountain air which is giving him the glow of nature, and quickening him into greater appreciation of this grand impressive country. The plains themselves are a sight — most forci- ble; shall we call them tlie hUinkuess of desolation ? No, for every inch of the little turf beneath your feet is rich ; the soil contains the finest of food in the little tufts of buffalo grass, on which thousands and millions of sheep and cattle may feed the year through. But it is the vastness of wide-extending, uninhabited, lifeless, uplifted solitude. If ever one feels belittled, 'tis on the plains, when each individual seems but a little mite, amid this majeslij of' loneliness. But the traveler finds with the Pullman car life, amid his enjoyments of reading, playing, conversation, making agreeable acquaintances, and with con- stant glances from the car window, enough to give him full and happy use of his time.
Night time comes, and then as your little berths are made up, and you snugly coyer yourself up, under double blunke's (for the night air is always crisp and cold), perhaps you will often witness the sight of a prairie fire, or the vivid flashes of lightning ; some of nature's greatest scenes, hardly less interesting than the plains, and far n)ore fearful and awe-inspiring. Then turning to rest, you will sleep amid the easy roll of the car, as sweetly and refreshingly as ever upon the home-bed. How little has ever been wiit- ten of " Night on the I'acific Railroad," the de- lightful, snug, rejuvenating sleeps on the Pacific Railroad.
The lulling, quiet life by day, and the sound, refreshing repose by night, are to the system the best of health restorers. "Were there but one thing tourists might feel most gratitude for, on their overland trip, 'tis their enjoyment of the ex- hilarating mountain air by day, and the splendid rest by night. But as our train moves on, it in- troduces us to new scenes. You soon ascend the Rocky ]\lountains at Sherman, and view there the vast mountain range, the " B.ack Bone of the Continent," and again descend and thunder amid the cliffs of Echo and Weber Canons. You carry with you your Pullman house and all its comforts, and from your little window, as from
Tin: t\r(\nrc TQir^i^r.
your little boudoir at lionic, you will see the iiii;;lity wondi-rs ol" the Fur West.
It is impossible to tell ot' the jileusures and joys of the palace ride you will have — live days — it will make you so well accustomed to car liii', you feel wlu'u you drop upon the wharf of Saii !• ran- cisco, that you had left genuine comfort behind, and eviMi the hotel, with its cosy parlor and cheiM-ful tire, has not its full recompense.
Talaee car life has every ilay its fresh and novel sivjhts. No railroad has greater variety and contrasts of scen(;ry than the I'acific Kail- road. The great plains of Nebraska and Wy- oming are not less im|)ressive than the great lIuinlioMt D.isert. The rock majesties of Echo and Weber are not more wonderful than the curiosities of Great Salt Lake and the City of Deseret. And where more grandly and beauti- fully could a tourist drop (h)\vn and tinish his tour, than from the grand, towering summits of the Sierras, and amid the golden grain fields 'if California, its gardens, groves, and cottage blossoms ?
WhiMi the traveler returns home, nothing will impress him more strongly or bi^autifuily than the loveliniiss of the Valley of the I'latte. Com- ing eastward, first, he will leave bciiind the mil- lions of acres of little short buffalo grass, so dry and yellow, and soon comes to a little green. How refreshing it is after days of dry, sere vege- tation, (irrailually there come other grasses, a little taller and more green; then nearer and ne,arer to the end of the journey, come the wav- ing of the corn-fields, the vast meadows of tall green grass, and the happy little farms. So complete a transition from the solitude of the uplands to the lovely green verdure of the low- lands of the Platte, is an inex]>ressible charm to all. Xo traveler ever returns East but with the most kindly of ni'Muories of the grand, and yet simple beauty of the Platte Valley.
Tliink then, oh realer! of the jon^ that await thi'c from the window of tin/ palace car!
I*rarfirtff Hints f'(tr dun forts hi/ the U'di/. — To enjoy palace car life properly, one always needs a good companion. This obtained, take a section togi'ther, wherever the journey leads you. From Chicago to Omaha, the com- pany in sleeping-cars is usually quiet and re- fined, but beyond Omaha, there is often an indescribable mixture of races in the same car, and if you are alone, often the chance is that your ^^ coinpat/non (In voi/age" may not be agree- able. It is impossibli' to order a .section for one person alone, and the dictum of sleeping-car arrangements at Omaha recpiires all who come to take what berths are nssii/iied. But if yovi will wait over one day at Omaha, yon can make a choice of the whole train, and secure the most desirable berths. When your section is once located, generally you will find the same section reserved for you at Ogden, when' you change
cars to the Central Pacilic Railroad ; all through piissengers having usually the preference of bt/st berths, and aUjut the same jiosition as on the cars of the Union Pacific.
Fee your porter on the sleeping-car always — if he is attentive and obliging, give him a dol- lar. His attention to your comfort and care of your baggage and constant watch over the little articles and hand-satchel, against loafers on the train, is worth all you give him. Often larger fees are given. This is just as the traveler feels. The ]iorti;rs of b<Jth Pacific Railroads are es- teemed siHicially excellent, obliging and care- ful.
Meals. — The trains of the Union Pacific Railroad are arranged so as to stojt at excellent stations at convenient hours, for meals. In place of the usual dining station at Laramie, there is now a most comfortable and cmiven- ient eating station at Rock Creek, a little far- ther west. Its pleasant, cheerful room filled with plants, and the convenience of better hours for meals, add greatly to the pleasure of the over- land trip. At Green River you will find the dining-room entrance fairly surroumled with curiosities, and the office filled with oddities very amusing. The meals here are excellent, con- sidering all supplies are obtained at a great dis- tance away.
Usually all the eating-houses on botli tlie Pacific Railroads are ve;-j' excellent indeed. The keejM'rs have to maintain their culinary excellence under great disadvantages, especially west of Sidney, as all food but uieats nmst be brouglit from a great distance.
1'ravelers need to make no preparations for eating on the cars, as meals at all dining-halls are excellent, and food of great variety is nicely served; bufialo meat, antelojK^ steak, tongue of all kinds, and always the best of beefsteak. Laramie jiossesses the reputation of the best steak on the Pacific Railroad. Sidney makes a sjH'cial- ty, occasionally, of antelope steak. At Evanston you will see the lively antics of the Chinese waiters, probably your first sight of them. Al.so they usually have nice mountain fish. At fJreen River you will always get nice biscuit; at Grand Island' they give all you can jnissibly eat ; it has a good name for it,H bountiful supplies.
At ()g<len you will be j^eased with the neat- ness and cleanness of the tables and service. At Cheyenne the dinners are always excellent, and the dining-roo.n is cheerful. To any who either have desire to economize, or inability to eat three railroad meals ])er day, we recommend to carry a little basket with Alliert biscuit and a little oip. This can be easily filled at all stopping-places with hot tea or coffee, and a sociable and com- fortable glass of tea in<lulged in inside the car. The jxirter will fit you up a nice little table in your section, and spread on a neat white table- cloth.
WMM ^maiFiG r&w^mr.
AVhen the tourist reaches the Central Pacific Railroad he passes beyond tlie domain of tlie Pulhnan Car Company; nevertheless, the new coaches of the Central Pacific Kailroad are just as elegant and convenient.
As the comforts of the new cars are far supe- rior to the old ones, which still are used, it would be better to wait over at Ogden one day to make sure of them. The dining-stations of the Central Pacific Railroad are bountiful in their supplies ; at all of them fruit is given in sum- mer-time with great freedom. Fish is almost always to be had ; no game of value. The food, cooking and service by Chinese waiters is simply excellent. The writer has never eaten nicer meals than those served at Winnemucca, Elko, Battle Mountain and Colfax. The Humboldt Desert is far from being a desert to the traveling public, for its eating-stations always furnish a dessert of good thiugs and creature comforts.
A little lunch-basket nicely stowed with sweet and substantial bits of food will often save you the pain of long rides before meals ; when the empty stomach craves food and failing to receive it, lays you up with the most dismal of sick head- aches ; it also serves you splendidly whenever the train is delayed. To be well on the Pacific Railroad eat at regular hours, and never miss a meal. INIost of the sickness which we have witnessed, has arisen from irregular eating, or injudicious attempts at economy by skipping a meal to save a dollar. We have noticed those who Yfere regu- lar in eating at every meal, passed the journey with greatest ease, most comfort and best health. Those who were irregular, skipping here and there a meal, always suffered inconvenience.
In packing your little lunch-basket, avoid tonf/ue, bi/ aU m'-aus, for it will not keep over a day or two, and its fumes in a sleeping-car are any- thing but like those from " Araby the blest?' Avoid all articles which have odor of any descrip- tion.
Lunch counters are attached to all eating-sta- tions, so that you may easily procure hot coffee, tea, biscuit, sandwiches and fruit if you do not wish a full meal.
The uniform price of meals at all stations over- land, is $1.UU greenbacks. On the Central Pacific, at Colfax pay 75 cents in silver; at Lathrop pay 50 cents silver — the cheapest and best meal for the money, of your whole tour. For clothing on your overland trip, you will need at Omaha the first day, if it is summer, a light spring suit ; the next day a winter suit at Sherman. Again, at Salt Lake City and the Humboldt Desert, the thinnest of summer suits, and at the summit of the Sierras, all your underclothing. We can only advise you as you have to pass through so many extremes of temperature, to always wear your underclothing, day and night, through the overland trip, and add an overcoat if the air grows chilly.
Beware of the quick transition from the hot ride over the San Joaquin \'alley to the cold sea air on the ferry from Oakland to San Francisco. Invalids have been chilled through with this un- expected sea breeze, and even the most hardy do not love it. Keep warm and keep inside the boat. Thus, reader, we have helped you with kindly hints how to enjoy your trip. Now let us glance, as we go, at each scene of industry where our tour will take us.
HINTS.
1. Hagfjnge. — All baggage of reasonable weight can be checked fi'om any Eastern city direct to Omaha, but is there rechecked.
2. At Omaha all baggage is weighed, and on all excess of over lUU pounds, passengers will pay 15 cts. per pound. This is imj)erative.
3. Hailroad Tickets — are easily procur- able for the whole trip across to San Francisco. It is better to buy one through ticket than to buy separately. By returning a different route from Omaha, from the one you went, the tour will be much more interesting, and give you fresh scenery constantly.
4. Buy your tickets only at known railroad offices, and never of agencies. In the "West, railroads have offices at the principal hotels. These are usually perfectly reliable.
5. To Check Baf/f/age — be at every depot one-half hour or more before the departure of trains.
6. Transfer Coaches. — In all Western cities there is a line of transfer coaches, which, for the uniform price of fifty cents, will take you and your baggage direct to any hotel, or transfer you at once across the city to any depot. They are trustworthy, cheap, and convenient. The agent will always pass through the train before arrival, selling transfer tickets and checks to hotels.
7. At Salt Lake City, horse-cars run from the depot direct to the hotels ; also there is an omni- bus transfer. Pidce, fifty cents.
8. At San Francisco the Pacific Transfer and Baggage Company will take your baggage to any hotel or private residence for 50 cents. Their agent is on every train ; you will save time by giv- ing him your check. Hotel coaches charge.il. 00. Horse-cars run from the wharf direct to all hotels.
9. Greenbacks are used for all railroad tickets and payment of sleeping-car berths for the en- tire distance to California ; also for all hotels to and including Salt Lake City, greenbacks will be received same as silver or gold. Away from the Central Pacific Railroad, you will sometimes need gold for coin expenses. After reaching San Francisco, you can sell your greenbacks and buy coin as often as necessary. If much coin is needed, buy and use the gold notes which are current everywhere within 300 miles of the city ; beyoud that the coin only is used. Gold notes
can be bought at any Banking House in San Francisco.
10. 'J'he uniform prices of board in the West are !j:J.O() to -iJl.OO \n'r day at C liicago. !?:5.00 to Si.OiJ [Hiv day at Omaha, l)enver, and Salt Lake City. In San Francisco, !?;5.0U t;old per day at all hotels. To secure pood nice rooms in Cali- fornia, the tourist must submit to extra charges of 61.00 to iJl.SD per day.
11. If traveling,' with ladies, it is good policy, when within lOl) miles of each city, where you expect Ui stop, to telegraph to your hotel in ad- vance, re(pii'sting nice rf>oms reserved, always ni'Mitioniu!^' that you liav(; ladies.
12. Whenever disposed to take horses and carriage for a ride, look out with sharp eyes for th(! tricks of the trade; if no price or time is agreed upon, you will liave to pay dearly, and the farther west you go, the hire of horse flesh grows d-arer (though the value per animal rai>- idly grows less.) Engage your livery caiefully at so much per hour, an<l then choose your time to suit your wishes. Ten dollar bills melt quicker in carriage rides than any other " vain show."
13. Without much exception, all railroad officers, railroad conductors, Pullman car con- ductors are gentlemen in manners, courteous and civil. No passenger ever gains a point by loud orders or strong and forcible demands. You are treated respectfully by all, and the same is expected in return. The days of boisterous times, rough railroad men, and bullies in the Far West are gone, aiui there is as much civility there, often more, than you will find near home.
14. Railroad tickets must always be shown when baggage is checked.
BOUTES.
Route Xo. 1 from Xrw York. — Take the Pennsylvania Central Railroad which leaves foot of Uesbrosses street, by ferry, to .Jersey City. To engage a good berth in your sleeping-car, go to a proper railroad office, and secure your berth by telegraph. There are local telegraphs connect- ing with the principal Pullman office. Do this the previous night, or morning, as then the best Ixuths can be secured. Pullman cars run on the Pennsylvania Railroad to Chicago and St. Louis, •lirect, without chan^^e. Three trains leave ptT day. To see the richest scenery, take the jnnni- inif train and you will have a pood view of nearlv the entire State of Pennsylvania bv daylight, the valley of the Susquehanna and Juniata, and the famous Ilorse-Slioe H.-nd by moonlight. The Pennsylvania Railroail U " nitraijs on time," the most reliable in its connections.
liimfp \o. '^ from .»»r York. — Leave via the Erie Railroad from foot of Cliambers or West •J:{d street. The advantages of this route are numerous. This is the famous Pullman line — which ran the first line of «lininp-cars — between New York and Chicago. The meals
are very fine and service excellent. The sleep- ing-cars on the Erie Railroad belong to the Pull- man Company, and are the finest in the world, of extra width and extra comfort. 'I'he .scenery along the Erie Railroad (by all means take the morning train) is specially fine, and at j>oints is n-markably lovely. The sleeping and dining- cars accompany the train to Chicago. The route pa.sses via Salamanca, Atlantic and Great Western and Chicago extension of Raltimore and Ohio Railroad, direct without change, to Chicago. P;i.ssenger3 al.so can take otlier sleejv ing-cars of the train, if they ^^i^.h. which will convey them direct to Ruffalo and Niagara Falls, when- tln're is diicct connection na tin- Lake Shore Railroatl or Michigan ( entral to ( hicago.
Jioiitr A'o. .'{ From Seir Yorh — is via the New York Central and Hudson River.
Jtoiifr yo. 4 — is via the Jialiimme and Ohio Railroad. Tourists by tliis roiite, to and from California, have many advantages. It is Me .•i/iorte.ti line from Chicago or Cincinnati to the National Capitol at Wa.«hington. Its scenery, on the mountain division, between Harper's Ferry and Parkersburg, is grand and full of liistoric interest. Its dining stations are exceedingly well kept, and the comforts of its parlor and sleeping-cars are equal to the very best. Pullman cms run through to and from St. Louis and Chicigo.
California travelers choosing this route east, will include Washington, Raltimore, Philadelphia and New York on one ticket, with their numerous scenes and objects of interest.
From J'hi/a</t/ji/iia. — Tourists uniformly prefer the Penn.-ivlvania Central, thouph many often wish to visit Baltimore and Wa.-hinpton, and thence see the scenery along the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and go westward via Cincin- nati to St. Louis.
From Jiattimore and Ifashinf/fou. — Tourists have choice of either the Northern Central with Pennsylvania Central connections, or the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Pullman cars run on either road.
From JSosfon. — Wagner sleeping-cars run direct over the lioston and Albany Railroad, to Rochester, N. Y., and usually through to Chicago. Though this is an exceedingly con- venient route, vet it gives no scenery of conse- quence. Tourists who desire the best scenery will do well to come direct to New York, the ride by steamer beinp alwavs pleasant; and from New- York make their staii. the plea.santest tinje for departure always being on the fast special ex- press in the morning.
From f'inriiiiiaft, — tourists have choice of two routes; 1st. via Ohio and Missis.-ippi Railroad, direct to .St. Louis, passing over the famous St. Louis Bridsre. with onmibns transfer toother railroads; or, '2d, via Indianaix>lis, Bloom-
10
TME ^^€iWI€ F&W^J&F.
ington and Western Railroad, which run trains direct to Burlington, la., or to Chicago. Full- man sleeping-cars run on either route.
From ChicHf/o, — three roads run across Iowa direct to -Council Bluffs. .
The Chicago, Burlington and Qutncy Mail road— crosses the Mississippi at Burling- ton, la., and passes through Southern Iowa. The Pullman cars are very elegant, and the road popular. This line is now running dining cars attached to its express trains, on both Eastern and Western divisions. Meals served on them are splendid, beautifully cooked, great variety, and a gi-eat comfort to the traveler. Price, only 75 cts. The Chicago and y orth-nestern Bail- road— is the shortest line, and crosses the Mis- sissippi at Clinton, la. The eating stations on this route are all very fine. In Iowa, especially, they are the best of the Iowa railroads. The Pullman cai-s are also very superior. There has recently been added a magnificent Hotel car to express trains, which increases the popu- larity of the line very greatly.
The Chicago and Bock Island Bail- road — crosses the Mississippi at Davenport. The view from the railroad bridge is veiy beaur tiful, and the scenery of the railroad in the Des Moiu'is Valley, and westward, is charming. The sleeping-cars on this line are owned by the rail- roail company, and are very good. 1 he line has rec'Mitly addi^d some elegant and expensive res- taurant and dining cars, whose fine meals are exceedingly well served.
Note. — Upon railroads west of Chicago, no sleeping-cars run through, except those connected with the morning Pacific express train. These run direct from Chicago to Council Bluffs, where passengers will change cars for Union Pacific Railroad.
From St. Louis — two routes are open to till! tourist. The Missouri Pacijic Railroad runs up on the south side of the Missouri River, with Pullman cars, direct for Kansas City, and also The St. Louis, Kansas City and Northern, on thfi northern side of the river.
B ith of these routes are in direct coimection with the Kansa-t Ci'y, St. Joseph ainl Council Bhiffs J{ai.lroail,rnn through sleeping-cars from St. Louis direct to Omaha. The sleeping-car between St. Louis and Omaha, runs direct from Omaha de- pot to Kansas city, and thence alternate nights over each Missouri railroad.
(Umncil Bluffs, Iowa, Bail road Trans- fer (r rounds. — This, as well as Omaha, is a transfer point for all passengers, and the starting point of all trains on the Union Pacific railroad. A recent decision of U. S. Supreme Court, fixes the teiininus of the Pacific Railroad on the east side of the Missouri River. The company has complied with the decision, and the necessity for bridge transfer is now entirely removed. At Council Bluffs is also the western terminus of
the Iowa Railroads. A Union Depot for all rail- roads has been erected and all passengers, bag- gage, mails, freight, etc., and trains for the West, start from this point, as well as Omaha. Pas- sengers, however, usually prefer to go to Omaha for a visit. The city of Council Bluffs is located about three miles east from the Missouri river, and contains a population of 15.000. Its record dates from as early as 180-1, when the celebra- ted explorers. Lewis and Clark, held a council with the Indians, which fact, together with the physical peculiarity of the high bluffs overlook- ing the town, has given it its name — Council Bluffs.
Tiie city is one of great enterprise, with a large number of public buildings, stores. State institutions, and dwellings, and is the nucleus of a large trade from surrounding Iowa towns, and is supported by a rich agricultural community. It is intimately connected with Omaha — with frequent trains over the bridge, by a railroad ferry, attached to the dummy train, an invemion of P. P. Shelby. It will doubtless come more largely hereafter into prominence as a railroad town, though the commercial importance of Omaha, and its trade with the far West, will doubtless be for a long time to come, far superior. The general offices of the Union Pacific Railroad Company will remain at Omaha.
At Council Bluffs the Union Pacific Railroad Company have reserved ample grounds, over 1,000 acres, to accommodate its own traffic and that of connecting railroads, and extensive prejv arations will be made to accommodate the vast traftic of freights, passengers, baggage and stock, which daily arrives and departs.
Here are also located the stock-grounds of the company, which in time will render the locality a large stock-market. The past year over 4,000 cars of stock were transferred over the bridge, and there is ample room for extension.
Slccping-Car Fxpenses. — The tariff to travelei-s is as follows, wdth all companies, and all in greenbacks :
One berth, New York toChlcago.one and one-half
days, hy anv route, $5 00
One berth. New York to Cincinn.iti. one and one- half days, l)y Pennsylvania railioad, 4 00
One berth. New York to Cincinnati, one and one- half davs, bv other routes, 5 00
One berth, New York to St. Louis, two days, by
aiiv route, 6 00
One berth. Chicago or St. Louis, to Omaha, by any
route, 3 00
One berth, Omnha to Ogden. by Pacitic Railroad, 8 00
One berth. Oi.'d'-n to San Francisco, by Central
I'acific Railroad, 6 00
MEALS.
All meals at all railroad dining-stations east of
Omaha, SO 7.5
Except dinners on Erie and New York Central, 1 dO
All meals on Union Pai'itii' Riiilroad, 1 00 All meals on Central Pacific Railroad, first day,
currt-nov, 1 *"'
All meal- on Central Paoitic Railroad, at Colfax, 75
All meals on Central Pacitic Railroad, Lalbrop, 50
Tm^ e,-icxFic Toi'Risr.
11
CarioHitien of Ifistorf/. — To wlioni tlie honor belongs of first proposing thf plan of a rail- roail to tlie P.uific. history c;in never fully dt-ter- mine. Wnitney offered to build it for a grant of thirtv mil»^s in width along its track, and it was look--d njKJn as the freaky lancy of a monomaniac. Benton. t')0, tlie famous statesman, was once aglow with enthusiasm over the subject, and l>e- gan to ag'tate the project, but it was considered the harmless fancy of an old politician. And in I'i.jB, when General Fremont was nominated, the Platform of the National Republican I'arty contained a clause in its favor — but it was re- garded as a piece of ch-'ap electioneering '• bun- combe," and decidedly absurd. Perhaps the earliest record of a devoted admirer of this piroject was that of John Plumbe, in 18:i6. He was a Welshman by birth, an American by education and feeling, a civil engineer by profession, and lived at Dubuque, la. He besran to agitate i\\^. project of a railroad from the great lakes across the Continent to the Territory of Oregon. From that time to his death, in California, sev- eral years after the discovery of gold, he never failed to urge his project ; earnestly and ardently laboring to bring it before Congress, and attempt- ing to secure a beginning of the great work. To far-seeing statesmen, the idea naturally occurred that in course of time there would arise on the Pacific Coast another empire of trafle and com- merce and industry, either at San Francisco, or the Puget Sound, which would in time, become the rival of New York and the East, and at once the proj»^ct was taken up and encouraged by Carver, Wilkes, Kenton, Whitney, Burton and others ; but all such ideas met with indifference ami ridicule.
In 18i4, when Fremont made his famous ex- plorations across the plains, which has earned him so world-wide a reputation, so little was known of the geograpliy of that countr}-, that his rei>orts were considered an immense acquisition to the collection of V)ooks of physical knowledge of our country. This section was fully 2.:}00 miles in distance, entirely vacant, no settlement, entirely occupied by roving bands of Indians, and the undisturbed home of the buffalo and antelope. In that year Chicago wjis but an obscure village, on a prairie without a single inhabitant. And not a single line of railroad Wis built from the Atlantic westward l>eyond the Alleghanies, and on the Pacific only one American tlag covered a feeble colony. The dis- covery of gold in California ha*l its effect in directing public attention to the unknown riches of its Western border; and at last Congress vok- up to the need of thorough explorations and investigations. In March, 185;J, Congress made its fir>t ai>]>ropriation to explore the Far We-t. ami ascertiiin if there was really a practi- cable mule to th*- I'acific. In 18.>4. Congress ajv propriated -^190,000 additional ; and, as a result,
nine surveying parties were organized and pur- sued their work. Ten routes were surveyed l>etween the :L*d and 4yth i>aial!el of latitude; the eastern ends ranging all the way fiom Fulton. Ark., to St. Paul, Minn.. — and tlie western ter- minal i>oints from San Difgo to Piiget Soiiiul. The lengths of these routes varied fioui 1,5^ to 2.-J!»0 miles.
The continued gold discoveries brought an im- men.se flow of population to the Pacific Coast, and California, more alive to the necessities of such roads than the Fast, after nuinerous agitation.s. at last really made the first initiatory exf>eiiment. Karly in 18<il there was organized at Sacramento, Cal.. the Central Pacific Railroad Company, who by the api>oii.tment of T. D. Judah, as diief en- gineer, began the first and most thoiough railroad sur\ey ever made on the Sierras,
Congress then woke up, and in July. 1862, the first national charter wjis granted. As a curious fact in the act — the utmost limit of time allowed for the completion of the road was fixed at July 1, 187'j. In October. ISC^J. the j'reliminar)- organ- ization of the company was completed. A capi- tal of one hundred million dollars authorized, and the first contract for construction begun in I8t;4, but no practical i)rogress was made till IMJS, when on the 5th of Noveml>er, the first ceremony of breaking ground, at Omaha, was celebrated. Then was l>egun the great work ; the rapid progress of which afterward was a world-wide sensation, astounding engineers, capitalists and even governments, with the almost reckless dar- ing of construction,
Xecessity and Benefits to tlic Goverit- nient.
From 1850 to 18C0, the population of the far Western States and Territories increa.sed f n m a mere handful to the large numl»er of 554,."K)1 persons, and in the whole area of 2.(XK) miles there had been built only 2:^2 miles of telegraph, and 32 miles of railway. The I'nited .'states Government had establi.shed forts and trading stations, and the year 1870 saw the comjiletion of the Pacific Railroad line, Congre.<s and the whole country were astonished to .M:*e the rapid rate of development, and the enormou* exy>ense of government military senice. In that year the
fx'pulation had increased to l.Oll.J'Tl. there had >een built over 1:{.000 miles of t^-legraph lines; there were comj>leted over 4.000 miles of rail- road : all representing the gigantic capital of ?;W:J.7*)0,000. In the reports of distinguished statesmen to the United States Senate, occur the.se remarks which show the spirit of the times then Senator Stewart of California, .«ays :
" The cost of the overland .service for the whole pericKl, from the .icquisition of our Pacific Coast posses.sions down to the completion of the Pacific Railro.id was *8.0<K),000 per annum, and con- stantly increasing."
12
WME ^m€EFi€ w&w^mw.
As a curious fact of national economy, these figures will show the result of the Pacific Rail- road in saving to the United States Government:
Since the building of tlie road, the cost of transportation to the government has been as follows :
Amount cash paid to railroad companies for one-half charge of transportation per year, about 5;i,2iKt,0.iO per annum, saj' for 7 years-lH69 to lh76, $8,400,000
The cost to the government of military trans- portation in 1«7(), was §8,00(1,000 per annum, and increasing over si.ikio.iioo per year. In 1876, would have hcfii over S14,- 000,000. Average for 7 years, at .■?lo,ooo,000 per year, $70,000,000
Total saving in 7 years to United States Govern- ment, $62,600,000
The actual amount of interest during this time paid by the United States Treasury on bonds issued in behalf of the railroad, average interest, $3,897, 129 per year. Total for 7 years, $27,279,906
Net profit over all expenses to United States, $42,320,094
These figures do not include vast amounts of incidental items whicli would have been of incal- culable trouble, or immense expense to the United States, such as the indemnities con- stantly being paid by the United States for de- struction of life and private property by Indians ; also depredations of Indians on property in gov- ernment service, increased mail facilities and decreased mail expenses, prevention of Indian wans, the rapid sale of public lands, and the energetic development of the mining interests of all the Territories.
If these can all be correctly estimated, the net gain to the United States by the building of the Pacific llailroad, is ovav ffiy millions of iloUars.
Hon. Henry Wilson, in a speech before the Senate, Tiiirty-seventh Congress, boldly said : " I give no grudging vote in giving away either money or land. I would sink ."$100,1 )0(),00(J to build the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think 1 had done a great thing for mv country. What are !$75,Ol)0,00() or .^100,000,000 in opening a railroad across the centi'al regions of this Con- tinent, that shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pacific, and bind us together? Nothing. As to the lauds, I do not grudge them."
It is a significant fact, that while the heat and activity of Congressional discussion was most earnest in aid and encouragement of the project, the following .sentiments were unanimously enter- tained by all the members of Congress :
1. That tin; road was a nficeasity to the govern- ment, and if not built by private capital, must be built in time with public funds alone.
2. To encourage the capitalists of the country to come forward and aid the project, the govern- ment were willing to give one half the funds necessary as a loan, and were then merely doing the least part of tlie whole.
3. That no expectations were entertained that
the road would ever, from its own mean.s, be able to refund the advance made by the United States, and no other thought was ever entertained, save of the benefits to accrue to the public from the opening of this grand highway of national interest. No expectations were formed of the ability of the company to pay or repay the interest on the loan, bnt one thought was con- sidered, that the building of the road was ample compensation and service in its vast aid to in- dustry, and its saving in transjjortation.
As editor of this Guide, knowing tcell the re- sources of the Fur West, we posilioely assert that the government has already, in seven years, realized in both savings ami sales, enough money to liquidate one-third the whole jirincipal, and accrued interest of the government loan, and in less than ticenty years from the opening of the road, the government gain will be greater than the whole of the fnancial aid it has ever given. The Pacifc Railroad is the right-hand saving power of the Uniied States.
Discoiiraffeinciifs. — Notwith.standing all that the government had done tc encourage it (by speeches), the work languished. Capitalists doubted it. The great war of the rebellion attracted the attention of every one, and the gov- ernment, after its first impulses, grew indifferent. A few bold men determined to work incessantly for its completion. And one of the results of the great war was the conviction in the minds of every one — of a closer Union of the States. " Who knows," said one, "but California and the who'e Pacific Coast may secede, and where are we then ? We can do nothing to retain them. The Pacifc railway must he built. It shall be built to keep our country together."
The chief engineer of the railroad, Gen. G. M. Dodge, in complimenting the directors on the day of the completion of the last mile of track, says :
" The country is evidently satisfied that you accomplished wonders, and have achieved a work which will be a monument to your energy, your ability, and to your devotion to the enter- prise, through all its gloomy, as well as bright period.s, for it is notorious that notwithstanding the aid of the government, there was so little faith in the enterprise, that its dark days — w hen your private fortunes, and your all was staked on the success of the project — far exceeded those of sunshine, faith and confidence."
The lack of confidence in the project, even in the West, was .so great that even in localities which were to be specially benefitted by its con- struction, the laborers even demanded their pay before they would perform their day's work, so little faith had they in the payment of their wages, or in the ability of the company to suc- ceed in their efforts.
Probably no enterprise in the world has been so maligned, misrepresented and criticised as this, but now it is, by unbiased minds, pro-
FJr/;' y\/('jrj(' ror/nsr.
13
nounoed, ;ilmost without excejition, the best new road in the United States.
Jtiijtitl frof/tu'ss. — Though chartered in lHfi2, yt't the first grailing was not done until iSfit, and the first rail laid in July, Ifi^io. At tiiat time tln-re was no railroad conitnunication from the K;ist ; a gap of 14U miles existed be- tween Omaha and Des Moines, and over this it was impossilile to get supplies.
For 500 miles westward of the Missouri River, the country w;is completfly destitute of timber, fuel, or any material with which to build or maintain a road, save the l>are sand for the road- bed itself, everythiuij ha<l to be transported by teams or steainlmats, hundreds and thousands of miles. Labor, and everything made by labor, was scarce and high.
Railroad ties were cut in Michigan and Penn- sylvania, and shi[)ped to Omaha at a cost, often, of ^J.'iO \Hir tie. Even the splendid engine, of seventy horse-power, used at Omaha for the company's works, was transported in wnfjons across the jirairies from Des Moines, the only way to get it. Shops had to be built, forges erected, and machinery put in place, and the supplies, even, for the sul>sistence of the laborers had to be brought by river from the East ; yet it was all done.
As the Westerners concisely express it, " TTte will'/ work had all been dune, and grading novo be- gan."
In 186.5, 40 miles of track were laid to Fre- mont. In 18()(), 2i;o miles were laid. In 1807, L'iO miles were laid, which included the ascent to Sherman. By January 1, 18(58, there iiad been completed 510 miles. In 18(58, to May 10, 18(5:9. 5.55 miles more were laid, and tlie road finislied — seven years in advance of the time set by Congress, and tlie time actually sj>ent in construction was just three years, six months, and ten days.
To show the enormous amount of materials required in the Union Pacific Railroad alone, there were used in its construction 3ilO,0(IO tons of iron rails, 1,700,<)00 fish-plates, (5.800,000 bolts, G,1'2G,;J75 cross-ties, ■J3,.5((5,5ii0 spikes.
J-^tHf liiiililiitff. — Day after day the average rate of building rose from one to two, tlnee and five miles. Many will remeinl)er the daily thrill of excitement as the morning journals in the East made the announcements of .so many more mdes nearer the end. and as the number of com- pleted miles, printed in the widely circulated advertisements of tlie company, reached 1000, the excitement became intense, as the rival roa<Is now weie fairly ag!o\v with the heat of com|>e- tition, and so near each other. In previous months there had existed a little engineering rivalry, good natured, but keen, :us to the largest number of miles each could lay in one day. 'I'lie Union Pacific men laid one <lay six miles ; soon after the Central followed suit by laying ftven,
The Union Pacific retaliated by laying seven and a half ; to this the Central t>ent the announce- m<;nt that they coulil lay ten miles in one dav ; to this Mr. Diirant, the vice-presirlent, .sent back a wager of 810.000 tliat it could not be done. 'Jhe pride and spirit of tin- Central Pa* i fie had now been challenged, and they imjiared for the enor- mous content, one of extraordinary magnitude and rapidity. 'Jhe 29th day of April, l8tj9, was selected for the decision of the contest, as there then remained but 14 miles of track to bring a meeting of the roads at Promontory Point.
Work began ; the ground had already been graded and ties placed in jH.sition. and at the signal the cars loaded with rails nKjve<l forward. Four men, two on e;vch side, seize with their ni|»- f>ers the ends of the rails, lift from the car and carry them to their j>lace ; the car moves steailily along over the rails as fast as they are laid. Im- mediately after follows a band of men who attach the plate and put the spikes in fiosition ; next a force of Chinamen who drive down the spikes solid to their homes, and last anotlier gang of Chinamen with shovels, picks, etc., who ballast the track. The rapidity of all these ntotion.s. which required the most active of exercise and alert movements, was at the rate of 144 feet of track to every minute. Ry l.:JO v. M.. the layers had placed eifiht viilt-s of truck in juM >ix hours. Resuming work again, after the noon rest, the track-laying progies.-ed. and at 7 i'. M.. exactly, the Central men fini.shed their task of 10 mih's, with 200 feet over. Mr. James Campl>ell, the superintendent of the division, then seizing a locomotive ran it over the ten miles of new truck in forty minutes, and the Union men weie satis- fied. 'J'his was the gieate.st feat of railroad building ever known in tiie world, and when it is known how vast the materials requited tosuj»- ply this little stretch of teti miles, the reader is fairly astonished at the etidnratice of the laborers. To put this material in place over 4.0(i0 men had been constantly employed. The laborers on that day handled 25.S(MI cros.«-ties. y.52o iron rails, 55.000 spikes, 7,040 fish-plates, atid 14.080 bolts, the weight of the whole being 4.:W2.O00 jKiunds. Upon both roads, for a year jnevious, there had been remarkable activity.
A total force of 2o.(t00 to 25.000 workmen all along the lities, atid .5.tK)o to t5.00<) teams hatl been engaged in gr.iding and laying the track or getting out stone or timber. Front .5(0 to (500 tons of materials were forwarded daily from either end of the lines.
The .Sierra N'eva<I.'\s suddenly became alive with wood-chopj»er.<. and at one place on the Tnickee River twenty-five saw-mills went into op^-ration iti a sittgle week. Ui>oti one railroad 70 to lOil locomotives were in use at one time, cotistatitiv bringing tnaterials and sitpplies. At one time there were :}() ve.ssels ^n mu'e from Xew York via Ca[>e Horn, with imii, loeomotives, rails and
SCLNKb IN OMAHA.
1.— General View of Omaha and the Missouri Valley. 2.— Po8t-Office. 3 —High School Buildiug.
4.— Grand Central Hotel. 5.— Missouri River Bridge.
rolliiiij stock, ilestiiieJ for the Central Pacific Railroad : and it is a curious fact, that on sev- eral consecutive days, more miles of track were iroii'^d by the railroad companies than it was fossible foi" an ox-team to draw a load over. And when at last the irreat road was completed, the fact suddenly flashe<l upon the nation that a road once so distrusted, and considered too gi'^rantic to be possible, was constructed an actual distance of '2,'2'2\ miles, in lesn thun jice ijtfar^, of which all but 1"0 miles was done l^etween Jan- uary 1, IS^tJ and May 10, lv)t)9 — three yeari,j(jur months and ten days.
OMAHA,
Rail roads. — The first railroad that reached this city from the E;ist was the Chicasjo and Xorth-NVestem. — the first train over it arrivin:^ on Sunday, Januarj' 17. 18H7. Then followed the Kansas City, Coimcil Blufifs and St. Joseph, the Chica;;^, Rock Island and Pacific and the Bur- lington and Missouri River of Iowa (operated by the Chicago, Burlinsrton and Quiucy.) .\fter these came the Sioux City and Pacific, the Omaha and North- Western and the Omaha and South- western, and the Omaha and Republican Val- ley. The Omaha and South-Western is now operated by the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad in Nebraska. The latter extends to Lincoln the capital of the State : then westward uniting with the L'nion Pacific at Kearny Junc- tion. It has a branch from its main lines from Crete to Beatrice, a thriving town near the southern boundary of the State. It also con- trols another line running from Brownville on the Missouri River, north to Nebraska City, thence west throu£jh Lincoln (where it connects with the main line) to York in the central part of the State. The Omaha and North-Western is completed about 40 miles, and follows the Missouri on the west side of that river, north from Omaha. It is beiuir extended every year, and its claim that it will soon l)e one of the favorite routes to the Black Hills, as its tendency is towards the beautiful valley of the Elkhoni, one of the garden-sp)ts of N^ebraska. Other railroa<is are cont-mpiateil. amontj them the Ne- bniska Trunk Railroad down the west bank of the Missouri from Omaha to .\tchi.son. When com- pleted it will form close connection with the Missouri Pacific, giving a competin? route to St. Louis and the sealxiard. At Atchison it will connect with the .\tchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, forming an almost direct route through Kansas to the mines of Southern Colorado, New Mexico and .\rizona. As the Atch son ro.ad is bein? eitencled to meet the Smthern Pacific, Omaha will h.ive another outlet to the P;u-ific Co.xst. .\nother line is the St. F^^nis, Chillicothe and Omaha, commonlv called *• the Chillicothe route." The indications are that it will be fin-
ished soon, which*will shorten up the distance to St Ix)ub about Go miles. The Omaha and Republican Valley ojieraled by the L'nion Pacific Company, runs from Uuijvlia to David City al«>ut 100 miles west, and it is already doing a large and increasing business. It will be extended westward as the countrj' develops, and jopida- tion increases. A branch of this line is contem- plated from Valparaiso to Lincoln.
Besides these railroads, Omaha has the Mis- souri Ri%-er on her front giving the city che.ip steam communication from the center of Men- tana to the Gulf of Mexico, and with the whole ilississippi valley and its tributaries as far tlast as Pennsylvania. The city has liecome the most important railroad center wfst of Chicago and St. I>juis, and as the greatest popular - travel center " on the Missouri river, stands unrivaled. As a matter of interest we mention the fact that in 1875 there were ob.OO^i local arrivals and de- partures. In 1876 there were 70.0 'O, and in 1??78, 7:{.:i;{0. Tlie city Ls the Eastern gateway of the mineral bearing regions of the West, and the products of British Columbia, the Pacific Coast, the Sandwich Islands and Asia find their way through her limits to the eastern markets. Within a circle having a ra<iiu3 of five hun- dred miles of which Omaha is the center, there are upwanis of ll'.OOO.O* 0 people and 2»;.000 miles of railroo'ls radiating in every direction. Within this circle is the Black Hills region, whose rapid development b already attracting attention. Beyond this limit on the we-t, are Western Coloraiio. the greater p.-irt of Wyoming, L'tah. Idaho, Montana Nevada and California Omaha already has a controlling influence over the greater part of the min»'ral trade of these States and Territories, of which we shall speak hereafter.
The general offices of the Union Pacific are located here. They are in an elegant building which catches the eye of the traveler as one of the no' ■'■ ' » 1 '.cts as he approaches the city. It was in 1878, at a cost of ^58,4.>{.74,
and ti;i ..,.-> are verv pnnid of this fine structure. The (general oflices of the Burlington and Mi.ssouri River in Nebra-ka, the Omaha and North-Western, the Omaha and South- western and the Omaha an»I Republican Valley Railroads are als<-) loc.-\te<i here. In addition to these the general agencies of the Chicago, >ioui City. St Louis and Eastern lines, have handsome offices, which are located in the (Irand Central Hotel building. The Blue, Red, Empire and other fast freight lines are represented in the citv. and it is probable that th*- " -^ ^e and Ohio. Wabash and other com s will
push their f ■-• '"' - '' ' ' - * ■ .. ■ :i with
the Tnion 1 roportion of the
immense tr;i
The Omaiui an<i Republican Valley Railm.id have taken stej»s lookiin: to the e.irlv coriit'It.-ti. .n
of a series of railroad lines that will "gridiron" the State. One line will run to Atchison, Kan- sas. Another to Lincoln, another into the Re- publican Valley, another to Grand Island and up the Loup Fork, and another to the Nebraska Kiver in the north.
Maitnfactares. — In manufactures Omaha is now the most extensive manufacturing point on the Missouri river, the amount for 1878 being in the neighborhood of $9,000,000. She has an oil mill which supplies tlie extensive demand for linseed oil and oil cake, and promotes the growth of flax in Nebraska, necessitating at an early day the erection of flax mills in the city for the manufacture of that article ; extensive white lead works, completed in the spring of 1878, a safe factory, several breweries, two distilleries, foundries and machine shops, carriage and wagon shops ; three packing houses, flour mills and other manufactories in active operation or con- templated. Among the latter, are a nail mill, starch factory, etc., etc. Among the principal establishments in operation are the machine shops, car works and foundry of the Union Pacific Railroad, and the Omaha smelting works. The shops of the railroad occupy, with the round- house, about thirty acres of land on the bottom adjoining the table land on which most of the city proper is built. Their disbursements amount to .12,600,000 per annum for labor and material, while for office and manual labor alone the Union Pacific pays out annually in Omaha over one million dollars. The value of this business and the location of these shops to the city can there- fore readily be seen, and are no small factors in Omaha's prosperity.
Business of Omaha — Facts Interest- ing and Curious. — When Omaha was first entitled to the honor of a post-office, the story is told that the first postmaster (still living in the city) used his hat for a post-office which he naturally carried with him wherever he went de- livering the mail to anxious individuals who were waiting eagerly for him, or chased and overtook him. Twenty years after, Omaha pos- sesses a handsome stone post-office and custom house vvorth $550,000, (in which there is a bonded warehouse,) and the finest building west of the Mississippi river. The post-office has frequently handled twenty tons of overland and local mail matter par dav. The total receipts at this post-office for 1878 were about $1,. 500,000. and the total number of letters, newspapers, and pos- tal cards collected and delivered was 1,695,668. In 18G1, the first telegraph reached Omaha, and its only office was, for several years, the termi- nus of the Pacific Telegraph. Now there are thirty telegraph wires radiating in all directions ; fifteen offi'^es, employing forty operators. The number of messages per day averages 4.600, of which one third relates to Pacific Railroad busi- ness, and including press dispatches, local and
Pacific coast, 17,800,000 words were repeated. The total value of school pioperty in Omaha is $130,975, and the city is growing so rapidly that several more buildings are needed.
Omaha is the headquarters of the army of the Platte, and disburses about $l,00i),00n, besides an annual transportation account with the Union Pacific Railroad of $650,0 0. The office of In- ternal Revenue Collector for Nebraska is also located here. In 1865, Omaha did not have a single manufacturing establishment. In 1877, her manufactures amounted to about $9,000,000, the annual increase being from twenty to twenty- five j^er cent. Here are located the largest smelt- ing and refining works on the North American Continent ; the Omaha smelting works, who employ 150 men and do an annual business of $5,500,000. Seven breweries turn out 20.000 barrels of beer. One distillery pays the govern- ment $5.32,000 per year, and there are upward of fifty smaller enterprises, among which is a nota- ble industiy, the manufacture of brick : over 500,000,000 brick being turned out of four brick yards. The bank capital and surplus exceed $82; 1,000. In overland times before the building of the Pacific Railroad, or just at its commence- ment, the wholesale trade of Omaha was won- derful. Single houses handling as much as $3,000,000. Since that time the courses of trade have been so divided, that the largest sales now of any wholesale establishment do not exceed $1,500,000.
Perhaps the best index of the enormous trade Omaha is gaining is in the increase of the .ship- ments and receipts of live stock, grain, currency, precious metals, etc., etc.
The receipts of cattle at Omaha were as fol- lows :
NO. INCREASE.
During 1«"6,
1877,
60,300 95,500
The estimates place the receipts at 150.000 for 1879, and large stock yards will be built the pres- ent year. In 1874, the grain business amounted to about 300,000 bushels per annum. In six months ending March, the receipts amounted to 2,250,000 bushels and the corn crop of the last year had not then begim to move. Omaha has two grain elevators, but the greatest need of the trade is an elevator with a storage capacity of 1,000,000 bushels.
As to the movements of the precious metals into and through Omnha, we find that the Black Hills ores are appearing freely in the city, and since the opening of the Colorado Central Railroad from Cheyenne to Denver, the Union Pacific is getting its share of the ore and base bullion of that state. It is a noticeable fact that all of the shipments of fine gold and silver from New Mexico now find their way to the eastern cities tlirough Omaha. The gold and silver product of the country west of Omaha is steadily
wmj^ ^^aiFW TomtsT.
17
increasing as will be seen by reference to these statistics :
GOLD AND SILVKK rKODLCT OF TIIK WEST.
1X70, 1x71, 1H71', lh7.{,
StJl.WXt/XH) tili.lMNI.UOO
KJ,!M;t,«77 71,(J42,5ia
1N74.
ls7r>,
1K7»), 1»77.
97'.',4JJ<.l'n6 7.'>,7h;i,(i.'>7
SW,3J(>,»>4
SliowinjT an increase in the gold and silver production in 1877 over I8f)!) of .?.Jl,H:Jf),')Ol. In 1877, the estimated leail yield was 8."),U8o,"J.J0, of which the Omaha smeltinij works manufactured 81,500,000 into lead bars for shipment east. This amount being equal to the lead yield of Illinois and Missouri combined.
In tracing the routes over which the precious metals of Colorado, Xew Mexico, Utah, Nevada and the West come, they must not be considered possible and tenipnrnri/, but as the actual and per- manent routes over which these metals have been passing into and through Omaha, viz. :
MOVEMENT OF BULLION AND ORES.
During 1K7.1, S21,.'M»0,000
" 1X74, 4I,'.Hi7,n;Hl
" 1x75, 4'.>,x4x..>l:i
" 1X78, ■'Vi,7;it,l(M)
" 1877, 0<»,l)C(J,at»
Showing an increase in 1877 over 1873 of $28,o(J(),3(J8.
The increase in the eastward flow of gold in 1877 over 187*i wa.s ^5.'JJ7,102. The decrease in silver for the same time owing to the Asiatic de- mand and the coinage of trade dollars at San Francisco, was 81 1,890.83 1. Had not these in- fluences been at work, it is safe to assume that the pa.ssage of gold and silver into and through Omaha for 1877 would have amounted to 8')4,000,000 or two-thirds of the entire product of the country. This does not include the amount contained in the ore, base bullion and lead passing over the Union Pacific roads :
|
During 1875, |
f>4,4>!»,4(K) pounds |
|
1X76, |
71,75x,.l5-.' |
|
1877, |
ui,(toi\,tm " |
Showing an increase in 1877 over 1875 of 40,57<5,(5.">0 pounds. Of the amount in 1875, the Omaha smelting works received 20,t);]8,82fi pounds. The gain being projvirtionate for the two succeeding years. lu 1875, not a car load of ore or bullion was handled at Kansas City from the Kansas Pacific Railroad. In 1877 the receipts of ore in that city were 23,964,250 pounds, mostly for shipment east.
The Omaha smelting works are the largest on the Continent, as previously stateil. They are being constantly enlarged to meet the increasing demands of business. In 1875 the works in Col- orado reduced 81,().")0.000 of ore and bullion. In 1874, the Omaha work^ reduced 8*2.135,(100. In 1875.81.028.314. In lS7t). 81.832.01)0. In 1877, t5..5O0.0O0. For lS75-7i!-77 their lead manu- facture amounted to 35,262 tons or 70,524,000
pounds, iM> that Omaha now produces about one sixth of all the lead u.sed in the United State.s. Heretofore this lea<l has been shipped east, but the new white lead works will use a large i>or- tion of it and in the near future there is no reason why (Jmalia may not l>e one of the prin- cipal lead manufacturing markets in the coun- try. The statement of currency received at and shipped from Omaha is as follows, viz. :
|
n 1x7.1, |
«l'].!m,wr7.L'0 |
|
• 1x74, |
J7,4.'Il,(l»i'J.()0 |
|
' 1x75, |
M,4»W;,7<»it.l'0 |
|
■ lx7t>, |
xi,t\.\',,.iir>.ito |
|
' 1x77, |
x>,w:i;M).t>o |
Showing an increase in 1877 over 1873 of $18,048,452.80
U'here was deposited in the Omaha banks, viz. :
f.'J5..'inH,<160.4H KJ,.CKi,4!rj.0S 7'J,x<ln,5<Nt.(IO Nl.54i»,4x5.54»
Showing an increase in 1877 over 1874 of $25.239,524. 52.
Exchange sold by the same :
f2.'5,7»«,42fi.f»2
.>.ihi,«Mi.:«
Showing an increase in 1877 over 1874 of 12.413.241.46. The public improvements show this record :
During 1x74,
1x7.5,
" lx7fi,
1x77,
During 1«74, 1X77,
During 1x7,';, lx7r>, 1877.
?,T»«),noo
•iTx.OOO 7«*5,000
An increa.se in 1877 over 1875 of 8425,000; over 1876, t5-l7,000. Careful e.^timates place the improvement record of this year at no less than 81.00(»,000. Judging by the tide of immigra- tion now rushing into Nebraska through the efforts of eastern colonization .societies and others, the realization will go l>eyond that figure, as the trade of the city is rapidly extending in every direction and the indications are that the present will be the most prosperous year in the history of the West.
In 1860. the transportation trade of Omaha amounted to 732.000 jxiunds. In 1877, the re- ceipts and shijimeiits from anil to tin* W<st p.xss^ ing into and through Omaha were 2.172.720.000 pounds. In 1875, tlie Omaha merchants im- ported 17.450 carloads of merchandise.
The mercantile and manufacturit)g trade of the city in round numbers is as follows:
In 1H7.5, ?17.n<iO,000
'• 1X76, •i5,0ill>,0t10
" 1x77, ;ti»,ooo,ooo
This increa.se of 813,000 000 in two years was during a period of universal depression. Hut notwithstanding the hanl times. ()malia has be- come the chief commercial city of the Mi.ssouri valley.
The " Omaha Union Stock Yards " were in- corporated May 4, 1878. and began at once the erection of large and well arranged yards, on their grounds located on Uie Union Pacific track
near the city limits. A dummy car line extend- ing from the Union depot to Hanscom Park, connects the yards with the hotels and banks of the city. The packing, slaughtering and can- ning of beef is destined to grow into immense proportions at this point, as also undoubtedly will tanning and glue manufacture. The officers of the Union Stock Yards are Wm. A. Paxton, President ; Herman Kountze, Vice-President ; Jas. L. Lovett, General Manager ; W. J. Broatch, Treasurer, and W. C. B. Allen, Secretary.
TJie U. P. R. JR. Briflf/e Across the Missouri River. — The huge bridge, which spans the Missouri, is a fitting entrance to the wonders beyond — a mechanical wonder of itself, it fills every traveler with a sense of awe and majesty, as the first great scene of the overland journey.
The last piece of iron of the last span which completed the bridge was fastened in its place on the 20th of February, 1872. Previous to that time, all passengers and traffic were transferred across the treacherous and shifting shores of the Missouri River in steam-boats with flat keel, and with the ever-shifting cm-rents and sand-bars, safe landings were always uncertain. The bridge comprises 11 spans, each span 250 feet in length, and elevated 50 feet above high water-mark. These spans are supported by one stone masonry abutment, and 11 piers with 22 cast-iron col- umns ; each pier is 8 1-2 feet in diameter, and made of cast-iron in tubes one and three-fourths inches in thickness, 10 feet in length, with a weight of eight tons. As fast as the tubes of the columns are sunk, they are fitted together, seams made air-tight, and process continued till the complete depth and height is attained. Dur- ing the building of the bridge from February, 18G9, when work first commenced, until com- pletion in 1872 (excepting a period of eight months suspension), about 500 men were con- stantly employed. Ten steam-engines were in use for the purpose of operating the pneumatic works to hoist the cylinders, help put the super- structure into position, to drive piles for tempo- rary platforms and bridges, and to excavate sand within the columns. The columns were sunk into the bed of the river after being placed in correct position by the following method : The top of the column being made perfectly air-tight, all water beneath is forced out by pneumatic pressure. Then descending into the interior, a force of workmen excavate the sand and earth, filling buckets which are quickly hoisted up- wards by the engines. When the excavation has reached one or more feet, the column sinks gradually inch by inch, more or less rapidly, un- til a solid bottom is reached.
The least time in which any column was sunk to bed rock from the commencement of the pneu- matic process was seven days, and the greatest single depth of sinking at one time was 17 feet.
The greatest depth below low water which was reached by any column, at bed rock, was 82 feet. The greatest pressure to which the men working in the columns were subjected, was 54 pounds per square inch in excess of the atmosphere. When solid foundation is once obtained, the interior of the columns are filled with solid stone concrete for about 25 feet, and thence upward with ce- ment masonry, till the bridge is reached.
The total length of the iron structure cf the bridge is 2,750 feet. The eastern aj^proach is by an embankment of gradual ascent one and a half miles in length, commencing east of the Transfer grounds, and almost at Council Bluffs, and thence ascending at the rate of 35 feet to the mile to the bridge.
Metumwa. — The old depot grounds of the Union Pacific Railroad were on the bank of the river immediately beneath the bridge. When thiswas constructed, in order to connect the bridge and main line of the railroad, it was necessary to construct, directly through the city, a branch line of road 7,000 feet in length, and construct a new depot on higher ground, of which as a result, witness the handsome, new structm-e, and spacious roof, and convenient waiting- rooms. From the first abutment to the bank, a trestle-work of 700 feet more, 60 feet in height was constructed; thus the entire length of the bridge, with necessary approaches, is 9,950 feet. Total cost is supposed to be about $2,650,000, and the annual revenue about S^400,000. The bridge has figured nota- bly in the discussions of Congress, whether or not it should be considered a part of the Union Pacific Railroad. The recent de- cision of the United States Supreme Court has at last declared it so to be, and with this is done away entirely the " Omaha Bridge Trans- fer " of the past.
PrejHiriiif/ for the Westward Trip.— Having rested and visited the principal points of interest in Omaha, you will be ready to take a fresh start. Repairing to the new depot, finished, at the crossing of Ninth street, you will find one of the most magnificent trains of cars made up by any railroad in the United States. Everything connected with them is first-class. Pullman sleeping-coaches are at- tached to all express trains, and all travelers know how finely they are furnished, and how they tend to relieve the wearisome monotony of tedious days in the journey from ocean to ocean. At this depot you will find the waiting-rooms, ticket-offices, baggage-rooms, lunch-stands, news and bookstand, "together with one of the best kept eating-houses in the country. You will find gentlemanly attendants at all these places, ready to give you any information, and cheerfully answer your questions. If you have a little time, step into the Union Pacific Land office adjoining the depot, on the east, and see some of the pro-
rmm ^^ciFia roimisw.
10
ductions of this prolific western soil. If you have come from the far Kast, it has been aslijjhtly uphill journey all the way. and you are now at an elevation of !M5(J feet above the sea. If the weather is pleasant, you nuiy already bej^in to feel the exhilaratinj^ eftect of western breezes, and comparatively dry atmosphere. With books and [)ai)ers to while away your leisure hours, you are finally ready for the start. The bell rinps, the whistle shrieks, and off you go. The road first winds up a little valley, passing the Iiridi,'e Junction 1.5 (one and five- tenths) miles to
Sum in it Shi- inf/, — '4.2 miles from Omaha; eleva- tion 1,1 4-_> feet. This place, you will ol>- serve by these fij^- ures, is reached by a heavy up grade. You are 17G feet higher than when you first started, and but little over three miles away. Here is a deep cut throuufli the hill, and beyon<l it you strike Mud Creek Valley with a down grade for a few miles. This creek and the road run south on a liiu' nearly parallel with, and about two and a half miles from, the Missouri River until the ne.\t sta- tion is reached.
Gil more. — It is .0.5 miK's from Oma- ha, with only 10 feet difference in elera- lion—{)7G feet. The valley is quite thick- ly settled, and as you
look out on the left ••oo<>i>-iiye.
side of the cars, al>out four miles from Omaha, you will .see a saloon called Ilalf-Wav House. At about this jwint you leave Douglas County and enter .Sarpy County. Cilmore was named after an old resident of' that locality, now dead. Here you are some nine miles .south of Omaha, but only aViout three west of the Missouri River. Here you will first .see what are called the bottom lands of Nebraska. They are as rich as any lands on this Continent, as the re- markable crops raised thereon fully attest. From this .station you turn nearly due "west, and
pa.s.s over the lower circle of what is called the
OX-lx)W.
J'oftifiou, — 14.5 miles from Omaha; eleva- tion 'Jl'J feet, is the next station, and is a thriv- ing little town (pronounced Pa-pil-yo). It derives its name from the creek on whose banks it is situ- ated. Tliis creek was named by Lewis and Clark in their expedition U) Oregon, in 18<>4, and is derived from a Latin word which means butter- fly. The main branch was crossed a little west of(JilnK)re. Itemji- ties into the Mis- s<^)uri River al>out one mile north of the Platte River. It is rejiorted that the early explorers named, saw an im- mense number of butterflies in the muddy and w et places near its mouth, and hence the name. These gentlemen explored this stream to its .source, near the Elk- horn River. The town was laid out in the fall of 1869 by Dr. Readle, and is the permanent county-seat of Sar- py County. It has a fine brick court- hou.se^ and a brick school-house, hotels, flouring mills and a grain ware-house; is located as are all the towns on the first two hundred miles of this road, in the midst of a rich agricultural country. Sarpy County has two newspapers — one the PapUion Times, published weekly at this place, and the other, the Sarp;/ County Seuii- nel, published at Sarpy Center, some five miles in the countrv from this station. Sarpy is one of the best settled counties in Nebraska, and has a property valuation of over ^5.<MKt.(HMi.
Millaiul—\f>, named for Hon. Ezra Millard, presiilent of the Omaha National Hank, who has considerable landed prop-rty here. The station- house is comparatively new, and there are a few other liuildinqs recently erected. It is pleas- antly locate<l, and. like all western town.s, has plenty of room to grow. It is 20.9 miles from
20
Tmm 'Pm€iFl€ WQW^IBW.
Omaha ; elevation, 1,047 feet. Evidences of thrift are everywhere visible as you cast your eyes over the rolling prairies, and yet there is ample room for all who desire to locate in this vicinity. You have again crossed the boundary line of Sarpy County, which is a mile or two south-east of jMillard, and are again in the County of Douglas.
Klkhorn, — 28.9 miles from Omaha, eleva- tion 1,150 feet. This is a growing town, and does a large business in grain ; it has an ele- vator, grain warehouses, two stores, a Catholic church, good school-house, and a hotel. You are now near the famous Elkhorn Valley and River. By a deep cut, the railroad makes its way through the bluff or hill on the east side of this stream, about a mile from the station.
The elevation of Waterloo is laid down at 1,140 feet. The town has a fine water-power which has been improved by the erection of a large flouring-mill. It also has two steam flouring- mills, and a new depot. At this point you enter the Platte Valley, of which so much has been written and which occupies such a prominent place in the history of the country. The Elkhorn and Platte Rivers form a junc- tion a few miles south of this point, and the banks of these streams are more or less studded with timber, mostly cottonwood. In fact, the Elkhorn has cousiderable timber along its banks.
Valley — is 35.2 miles from Omaha, and is 1,120 feet above the sea. It has a store and hotel, and is the center of a rich fanning dis-
NKiirr SCENE. PKAIRIE ON FIRE.
and then on a down grade you glide into the valley. The rolling prairies are now be- hind you and south, beyond the Platte River, which for the first time comes into view. Cross- ing the Elkhorti River you arrive at
Waterloo, — .30.9 miles from Omaha, and only two miles from the last station. A few years since, a train was thrown from the bridge spoken of by reason of the high water of a freshet. This train had one car of either young fish or fish-eggs in transit ; the contents of this car were of cour.se lost in the river, and since that time the Elkhorn abounds in pike, pickerel, bass, sunfish and perch. What the California streams lost by this disaster tlie Elkhorn gained, as these fish have increased rapidly in this stream, where they were previously unknown.
trict. The land seems low, and one would easily gain the impression that the soil here was very wet, but after digging through the black surface soil two or three feet you come to just such sand as is found in the channel of the Platte. In fact, the whole Platte Valley is underdiained by this river, and this is one reason why surface water from hard and extensive rains so quickly disappear, and why the land is able to produce such good crops in a dry season. 'Water is ob- tained anywhere in this valley by sinking what are called drive-wells, from six to twenty feet. Wind-mills are also extensively used by large farmers, who have stock which they confine upon their premises, and which otherwise they would have to drive some distance for water. The Omaha and Republi-
TMB^ ^^ciFia ror/^isr.
21
can Valley Railroad runs to Wahoo and David City, soon to be extended to Lincoln.
Itirerside, — which is 11.1 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of ahoiit 1,140 feet. It will eventually heconie a station, as many trains alreiidy meet and jtass here.
I'rairie Fires. — Duiinjij the first night's ride westward from Omaha, the traveler, as he gazes out of his car window (which he can easily do while reclining in his Ix-rth) will often find his curious attention rewarded by u sight of one of the most awful, yet grandest scenes of prairie life. The prairies, which in the day-time to some, seemed dry, dull, uninter- esting, occasionally give place at night, to the lurid play of the hre-fiend, and the heavens and horizon seem like a furnace. A jirairie on fire is a fearfully exciting and fear-stirring siyht. Cheeks blanch as the wind sweeps its volume toward the oltserver, or across his track. Full in the distance is .seen the long line of bright flame stretching for miles, with its broad band of dark smoke-clouds above. As the train comes near, the Hames leap higher, and the smoke ascends higlu'r. and on their dark bo.som is reflected the fires' brilliantly-tinged light. Sweeping away for miles towards the bluffs, tiie fire jinnps with the wind, and the Haines leap 'JO to 30, or more feet into the air, and for miles brighten the prairies with iiw awful sight. We have never seen anything of prairie life or scenery jwssessing such majestic brilliance as the night glows, and rapid advances of a prairie fire. Far out on the prairies, beyond the settlements, the prairie fires, (usually set on fire by the sparks from the locomotives) rage uncliecked for miles and miles, but nearer t<^> the little settlements, where the cabins have just been set up, the fire is their deadli- est and most dreaded enemy. No words can describe, no pencil paint the look of terror when the .settler beholds advanc- ing toward him the fire-fiend, for which he is uniire])ared and unprotected. When the first sign of the advancing fire is given, all hands turn out ; either a counter fire is started, which, eating from the .settler's ranch, in the face of the wind, triward the grander coming volume, takes away its force, and leaves it nothing to feed upon, or furrows are broken with the plow around the settler's home. The cool earth thrown up, and all the grass beyond this i- fired, while the little home enclosed within, is safe. A curious feature of prairie fires is, that the buffalo gra.ss, the next .season, is darker and richer than ever before ; and lower down, in
which never were seen before. So long as prairie fires rage, nothing will grow but the little tufts of prairie grass. Wherever the prairie fire cea.ses or is kept restrained, vegetation of all de- scription as far west as the I'latte, is compleUdy changed. In the fall of tiie year the.se fires are most fre(juent ; and creating a strong current or breeze by their own heat, they advance with the rapidity often of a locom<jtive, 20 or metre miles an hour, and their terrible lurid light by night, and blackened path left behind, as seen next day by the traveler, are sights never to be forgotten. In the l(»wer river counties a prairie fire oft<m originates from tlie careless dropping of a match, or the ashes siiaken from a pil»«*. The little .sjiark touches the dry gra.ss like tinder — the con- stant breeze fans the little flame, and five minutes after it has covered yards. The loss to tillers of the .soil is often ai>[ialling. One of (ieneral Sherman's veterans, in describing a prairie fire to a visitor, raising himself to his full six feet height, and with eye flashing as in battle excite- ment, said : " Mr. C., if I should catch a man firing the prairie at this time, as (Jod helps me, I would sh(K)t him down in his deed." A traveler riding on the prairie said, "only a few miles from me an emigrant, traveling in his close-covered wagon " with the wind, " was overtaken by the flames coming down on him un.seen. Horses, family, wagon, were all destroyed in a moment, and him- self barely lived long enough to tell the tale. Nearly every night in autumn the prairies of the boundless West, show either the near or distant glow of a fire, which in extent has the ap{>ear- auce of another burning Chicago.
" IICSTED."
sections where the prairie fires are
carefjdly kept off, trees, shrubs, bushe.s, etc., I Pike's Peak or liitM. — Thisexpreiwionhas
of many varieties, grow up spontaneously, I become widely known, and received its origin as
REPRESENTATIVE MEN OF THE UNION PACIEIC RAILROAD.
TSm ^^CiFiG TOUmtST.
23
follows : — At the time of the opening of the I Piki-'s Pt'uk exfit«;intMit in j^old dij,'tjiiij^s, two j nioHfMM'H niude themselves conspicuous })y paint- ing in large letters on the side of their wagon cover : — " Pike's Peak or Bust." in their haste U) ! reach this, the newly discovered Eldorado, they scorned all safety and protection olfered Ijy tiit; " train " and traveled alone, and on their "own ho(jk."
For days and weeks they escaped the dangers attending their folly, and passed unharmed until they reached the roving grouiul of the hloody Sioux. Here they were surrounded and cruelly | and want<inly murdered ; their bodies were driven through with arrows, and pinned to the earth, and left to the sunshine and storms of the skies.
Fremont — is 40.5 miles from Omaha, and has an elevation of 1,170 feet. It is the county- seat of Dodge County, and has a ]X)])ulation of full :3,00(). In the year 187.3, over §1(J(J,00U were expended in buildings in this gnnving young city. It has never, so far as jK)i)ulation is con- cerned, experienced what may be called a great rush — its growth having been slow and steady. It is located near the south-east corner of the county. Originally the town comprised a whole section of land, but was afterwards reduced to about half a section. The town company was or- ganized on the "JOth day of August, 18.30, and in that and the following year, thirteen log liouses were built. John C. Ilormel built the first frame house in 18.37. The Union Pacific reached the town on the 24th day of January, 1800, nearly ten years after it was first laid out, and trains ran to it regularly, though the track was laid some li miles beyond, when work ceased for that winter. The Sioux City and Pacific road was completi'd to Fremont late in the fall of 1808. In the expectations of the residents, it was then to become a railroad center, and lots were sold at large prices. This last-named road runs from Blair on the Missouri River, where it crosses said stream and forms a junction with tlie Chi- cago and North-western. It then runs north on the east side of said river, to Sioux City. The Elkhorn Valley Railroad completed the first ten miles of its track in 180r). and the balance, some 50 miles, was finished to Wisner in the following year. This road is one of the natural routes to the Hlack Hills, and it is now stated that it will soon be extemled in that direction. It will con- tinue up the Elkhorn Valley to near its source, and then crossing tiie divide, will strike into the Niol)rara Valley, thence westward until the Hlack Hills are reached. Tliis road is a fee<ler to Fre- mont, and very valual)le to its trade. The Atch- ison and Nebraska Railroad, is to be exU'uded from Lincoln to this place, during the [)resent year (1870). The city will then have a direct line to St. I^uis an<l the South, with two direct liHes to Chicago and the East. Other railroad
projects are contemplated, which will make this place in reaiitv a railroad center.
Fremont has a large, new hotel, the Occi- dental, ami .several smaller ones ; has the finest ojM-ra house in the West, and the large.st and finest dry-goods house in the State. It has fiv«! or six church edifices, and an ele- gant public scho<^>l building, two banks, three or four elevators, a .steam flouring mill, extensive broom factories, and two or three manufacturing establishments where headers are made. It also has a fovintlry an<l machine-shop. It is now a regular eat- ing station on the railroad, all pa.ssenger trains east or west stopping here for din- ner, which is really most abundant and ex- cellent.
Fremont is \nrtually located at the junction of the Elkhorn and Platte Valleys, and from its position naturally controls a large .scope of coun- trj'. Its p«*ople are industriou.s, wide-awake and energetic. It is in the midst of a thickly-settled region, and its future prospects are verj- flatter- ing.
Fremont has two new.spapers — the Fremont Herald (daily ami weekly), and the Fremont 'I ribune (weekly). The latter was first estab- lished, and probal)ly has the largest circulation. The enterprise of newspapers in these western towns, contribute ver}' largely to their growth and prosperity. The town is the fourth in si/e and |X)pulation in the State.
The Elkhorn \'alley is between two and three hundred miles in length, is well timWred and remarkably fertile, and the railroad which is to do the carrying business of this valley, has its terminus at Fremont.
yVif (irt-at Platte Vnlley. — You have now passed over a few miles of the great Platte Valley. At Fremont it spreads out won- derfully. an<i for the first two hun<lred miles varies in width from five to fifteen miles. Through nearly all its eastern course, this river hugs the bluffs on its southern side. These bluffs as well ;us those more distant on the northern side of the valley, are plaiidy visible from the cars. Before the road was built, this valley was the great highway of overland travel to Colorado. Utah, California, and Oregon, innnense trains of wagons, heavily freighted, have passed over it. in their slow and U'dious journeyings towards the setting sini. Leaving the Missouri at «liffer- ent jx^ints. the mutes nearly all converged in the Platte Valley, and thence westward to their iles- tination. The luxuriant gms-ses, and the prox- imity to water, made this the favorite route. It has al.so been the scene of deadly conflict's with the savages, and the l>ones of many a wanderer lie bleaching in the air. or are buried beneath some rough and hastily-made mound near the beaUMi road. But a wonderful change took place with the advent of the road. The " bull-whacker,"
24
Wmm ^^€iFI€ WQW^IBW.
with his white-covered wagon and raw-boned oxen — his slang phrases, and profane expressions, his rough life, and in many instances violent death — the crack of his long lash that would ring out in the clear morning air like that of a rifle, and his wicked goad or prod — an instrument of tor- ture to his beasts — with all that these things imply, have nearly passed away. Their glory has departed, and in their place is the snorting engine and the thundering train.
The remarkable agricultural advantages of this valley are everywhere visible, and it is rapidly filling up with an industrious and thrifty class of farmers. The land grant of the Union Pacific Company extsnds for twenty miles on either side of the road, and includes every alter- nate section of land that was not taken at the time it was withdrawn from the market, for the benefit of the company. If you pass a long dis- tance in the first two hundred miles of this valley without observing many improvements, it is pretty good evidence that the land is held by non-resident speculators, and this fact has a gi-eat influence in retarding the growth of the country. Around many of the residences are large groves of cotton-wood trees that have been planted by industrious hands and which give evidence of unusual thrift. In fact, the cotton- wood in most every part of this region is indig- enous to the soil, and will thriftily grow where other kinds of timber fail. Trees sixty feet high and from eight to ten inches in diameter, are no uncommon result of six to eight years' growth. The banks of the Platte and the many islands in its channel, were formerly very heavily timbered with cotton-wood, but that on its banks has almost entirely disappeared, together with much that was upon the islands. The favorable State and national legislation in regard to tree planting will cause an increase in the timber land of Nebraska in a very short time, and must of necessity, have an influence upon its climate. Many scientists who are familiar with the cir- cumstances attending the rapid development of the trans-Missouri plains .and the elevated plateau joining the base of the Rocky IMountains, assert that this vast region of country is gradually undergoing important climatic changes — and that one of the results of these changes is the an- nually increasing rainfall. The rolling lands adjoining this valley are all very fertile, and with proper tillage produce large crops of small grain. The bottom lands are better adapted for corn, because it matures later in the season, and these bottom lands are better able to stand drouth than the uplands. The roots of the corn penetrate to a great dejith, till they reach the moisture from the under-drainage. One of the finest sights that meets the eye of the traveler, is the Platte Valley in the spring or early summer ; to our eastern farmer, it is fairly captivating, and all who are familiar with farms and farming in the
Eastern States, will be surprised ; no stumps or stones or other obstacles appear to interfere with the progress of the plow, and the black surface-soil is, without doubt, the accumulation of vegetable matter for ages. The Platte Valley must be seen to be appreciated. Only a few years ago it was scarcely tenanted by man, and while the develop- ment has been marked, it will not compare with that which is sure to take place in the near future. There is ample room for the millions yet to come, and the lands of the Union Pacific Company are exceedingly cheap, varying in price from $3 to $10 per acre. The alternate sections of government land for the first two hundred miles of this valley are nearly all taken by homesteaders, or under the preemp- tion laws of congress. Much of it, however, can be purchased at a low price from the occu- pants, who, as a general thing, desire to sell out and go West still. They belong to the uneasy, restless class of frontiers-men, who have decided objections to neighbors and settlements, and who want plenty of room, with no one to molest, in order to grow up with the country. A sod house near a living spring of water is to them a small paradise. They might possibly suffer from thirst, if they had to dig for water, and the labor re- quired to build even a sod house, is obnoxious. But this will not hold good of all of them. There are many occupants of these sod houses in the State of Nebraska, and other parts of the West, who, with scanty means are striving for a home for their wives and children, and they cling to the soil upon which they have obtained a claim with great tenacity, and with sui-e prospects of success. They are worthy of all praise in their self-sacrificing efforts. A few years only will pass by before they will be surrounded with all the comforts and many of the luxuries of life. These are the experiences of many who " bless their stars " to-day that they have sod houses — homes — in and adjoining the great Platte Valley. Shoothiff Prairie Hens. — This is a favor- ite scene, often witnessed September mornings in the far West. The prairie is covered with its grass, and wild flowers, which last all the season through. Here and there is a stubble field of oats, wheat, or acres on acres of the golden corn, swaying gracefully in the breeze, and perhaps there is a little music from the meadow larks or bird songsters of the fields. The dogs with keen- est of scent, hunt out and stir up the game, and as they rise on wing, the ready gun with its aim, and deadly shot, brings them back lifeless. This is probably the most attractive way to look at a prairie hen, for we must confess that after a slice or two of the meat, as usually served at the eat- ing stations of the railroads, from which we escape with danger to our front teeth, and unsat- isfied stomachs, we can only exclaim " distance lends enchantment." However tough the meat, if served on the table when first killed, yet if
tb:k ^^laiFia rorj^isr.
25
kept till it grows gradually more tender, there is a wild, spicy flavor, wliich make them very agree- able eating. Buffalo meat and prairie hens are not altogether reliahle as viands of the railroacl dining stations, still every one must try for him- self, with here and there a fhaiice of hnding sweet and tender morsels.
good an illustration as any, of the rapid growth of some of the westt^rn towns and counties. The county was organized in the spring of 18(59, two years after the railroad had passed through it,— with Schuyler its the c<»unty-«eat. In the spring of the present year, 1879, it has an assessed valu- ation of nearly 91.600.000. and a population of
111 MlMi 1-HAlitlK HK.SS.
Ames — At present simply a side track, 53.5 miles from Omaha, and l.'J7() feet above the sea. This was formerly called Ketchum ; but bears its present name from Oliver Ames, Esq.. one of the builders of this railroad. Observe the size of the trees in the cotton-wood groves and hedges near this place — all |)laiited within the memory of the oldest inhabitant.
North lif'iKl — (11.5 miles from the eastern terminus of the road, and l.'J.")9 feet in elevation, a little less than the preceding station. This is a thriving little town, with several stores, hotel, lumber-yard, grain elevator, etc. It has a fx>n- tf)on brid'^re across the Platte River, which will materially increase its trade with Saundt-rs County on the south. The opening of many farms in its vicinity have ina<le it ([uite a grain market. The town is so named from a northwanl bend in the river, and it is the northernmost ]>ointon the Union Pacific in thu State of Nebnuska. The population is about 300.
Itoijfrs — is a side-track, will eventually be- come a station ; is in the midst of a rich farm- ing countrv ; is OS. 5 miles from Omaha, and hjus an elnation of l.;5.")!» feet.
Sr/iiiif/rr. — Thecounty-seatofColfax County,
*Tt is 7.'i.!> miles from Omaha, with an elevation of
1,335 feet. This town and county, perhaps, is as
1,000 or more. Evidences of substantial growth are everywhere visible. The town ha.s about twenty stores, of all kinds, two hotels, a substan- tial brick court-house, five churches, a l>eautiful .school-house, grain elevators, etc. New buildings to accommodate its increasing trade, or its new residents, are constantly going up. There are three flouring-mills in the county, on Shell Creek, a beautiful stream fed by living springs, which runs nearly through the county from west to eaitt, and from one to five miles north of the railroad track. The land in this county is most excellent, especially the rolling up-land north of Shell Creek. Some of" the finest crops of spring wheat raised in the West are grown in this vicinity. The j>eo- ple are turning their attention to stock-raising more than formerly, and .•several flocks of sheep Qiid herds of cattle are now kept in the county, by some of its enterprising stock-men. All of this accomplished in about six years, ."schuyler is the third tow II west of ( )maha tliat has a bri<lge across the Platte, Fremont U-ing thetirst. These bridges are verv advantageous to the trade of the t<^)wn3 in this valley.
liirhiiiii'il. — A small station 8^1.7 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of l.Un feet. I'p to li late (>eriod the land surrounding this station has been mostly held by speculators, but a change
26
T'mm ^m€iFi€ w&w^iBw.
having been effected, the town has brighter pros- pects. Lots are freely given away to parties who will build on them. The location is a very fine one for a town, and it is surrounded by an ex- cellent country. It is the last town west in Colfax County.
Colunibas — is 91.7 miles from Omaha. It is 1,4.32 feet above the sea. A beautiful growing town, with a rich agricultural country to back it. It has seven churches, school buildings, brick court-house, grain elevator doing a large business. Good hotels and other building enter- prises contemplated. It is located at the junc- tion of the Loup Fork, with the Platte Rivers, and near where the old overland emigrant road crossed the first-named stream. It now has a population of about 2,000 people, and supports two newspapers which have large patronage and circulation ; the Journal, which was first estab- lished, and the Era. Columbus has had two lives thus far. The first town-site was jumped by a party of Germans from Columbus, O., from which it takes its name. Afterwards the two interests were consolidated. It was the principal town west of Omaha until the rail- road came. The old town, near the ferry cross- ing, was then moved to its present site near the station. The old town had two or three small stores, a blacksmith's shop, and saloons ad libitwn. It was mostly kept alive by the westward emigration. At that time the Platte Valley was well supplied with ranches and ranchmen, only other names for whisky-shops and bar-tenders. During the week those con- cerns would pick up what they could from wagon- trains, and Sundays the ranchmen would crowd into Columbus to spend it — the sharpers improv- ing the opportunity to fleece the victims of their seductive wiles. At this time no attention what- ever was paid to agricultural pursuits. On the advent of the railroad in 1866, the wood-chop- pers, the freighters, the ranchmen and others, lured by the charms of a frontier life, jumped the town and country. They could not endure the proximity to, and restraints of civilization. Then the second or new life of the town be- gan. Farmers began to come in, and it was found by actual experiment that the soil was immensely prolific ; that it had only to be tickled with the plow in order to laugh with the golden harvests. In the lapse of the few brief years of its second or permanent growth, it has be- come a great gi-ain market, aud probably ships more car-lo:ids each year ( 1 ,78.5 car-loads last year) than any other town on the line of the road. Men draw grain from seventy to eighty miles to this place for a market. It has access to the country south of the Loup and Platte Rivers, by means of good, substantial bridges ; while the country north of it is as fine roiling prairie as can be found in any part of the West — well watered and adapted to either grazing or the
growing of crops. The men who first came to Columbus were nearly all poor, and it has been built up and improved by the capital they have acquired through their own industrious toil. The town has a good bank, without a dollar of foreign capital. It will soon have other rail- roads ; one from Sioux City, and another to Crete and St. Joe, is projected ; while in its immediate vicinity are large quantities of good lands which are held at low prices. These are only a few of the many advantages which Colum- bus offers to those in search of future homes.
How Buffalo liobes are Made. — George Clother is one of the proprietors of the Clother House at Columbus, Neb. It is one of the best home-like hostelries in the West. Mr. Clother is an old resident, having been in Columbus six- teen years. When he first came, the country was more or less overrun with wandering tribes of Indians, among whom were the Pawnees, the Omahas, the Sioux, and occasionally a stray band from some other tribe. In those days he was accustomed to traffic in furs and robes, and the business has grown with his increasing acquaint- ance, until it is now both large and profitable, though with the disappearance of both Indians and buffaloes, it is liable to decrease in the future. General Sheridan, we think it was, said that the vexed Indian question would be settled with the fate of the buffaloes — that both would disappear together. During the past few years, the slaugh- ter of these proud monarchs of the plains, has been immense, and will continue, unless Congress interposes a friendly and saving hand. It is safe to say, that millions of them have been killed for their hides alone, or " just for fun," which in this case amounts to the same thing, as their hides have been rejjeatedly sold for less than a dollar, and regularly not more than $1.50. This slaughtering has taken place principally in the Platte, Republican, Solomon, and Arkansas Val- leys, and where a few years since, travelers could see countless thousands of them from the car windows and platforms, on either the Union Pacific, Kansas Pacific or Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroads, they now, ])robably will see but few, if any. Their hides have been shipped East, where they make a poor quality of leather. Those only which are taken late in the fall and during the winter montlis of .January and Febru- ary, are fit for robes. The hair at this season of the year, is thick and firmly set.
About the time this killing process began in 1870, ]\Ir. Clother entered upon the work of tan- ning robes, employing fortius purpose the squaws of tlie Pawnee and Omaha tribes. The Pawnee reservation was only a short distance from Co- lumbus, and the " Bucks " were glad of the op))ortunity of employment for their squaws. Labor is beneath their dignity, and they despise it. Besides this, tanning robes is hard and slow work, and in their opinion, just fit for squaws. For a
TSl^ ^.itCJJ'K' TOI'RIST,
few years the squaws of both of tlie tiilx-.s namf<l, hav« been ••ngasjed by Mr. Clotlier, Imt the de- parture of the Pawnees to their reservation in the Indian Territory, j^reciuded tlie ]>ossil>ility of their employment, and hiMice in the winter of 187G, the Omalias seem to have a monojioly of the work, tliouirli tiit're is not as much to do as for- merly. We visited their camp to insix'ctthe proc- ess of making rol>es. It was located in a Ixxly of heavy tind)er, with a thick growtli of under- brush, on the narrow ])oint of land where the Loup Fork and IMatte Rivers form their junction. The low bushes made a perfect wind-l>reak. an<l in the midst of the tall trees their Sibley tents were pitched. The barkini; of numerous dops greeted our ap]>roach, and after makinjj a few inquiries of one or two who could talk broken
Eiujlish, we crawled into the tent occupied by the •* Bucks." wlmni we found intensely interest«Hl in traniMiuL' — j'layin*; a j;ame with caids called ••■Jl." In this tent were nine " Hui-ks " and one squaw; three sat stolidly by — disinterested wit- nes.ses oi tlie jjame; tlie sipiaw was entja^red at some verv' plain needle-work, ami occasionally I«iked the ]>artly burned brands into tlie firR, which was in the center of the tent, and over which huui; a kettle of Imilinij meat; the n^ niainini; six. sittinp uix>n a blanket o la Turk, were shuttiir.i; and dealinp the cards. Of course they ]>lay for money, and before them wen? sev- eral (jnarters in currency, and several silver quar- tei-s, with some small sticks, which were used as money, and which enabletl them to keep an ac- count with each other, of the pains and losses. During this game they passed an>und, several times, a lioll<»w-handled tomahawk, which was used as a pi I X'. One woidd take three or four whiffs, then j'ass it to the next, ami .so on, until it had been passed amund .several times. One of these •' Bucks" was called " Snaft'ord." He could talk Fjiplish quite well. Alter a while we a.sked " Spafford " to show us some robes, but he
28
TMM ^'^€lFia WQWMIBW.
pointed in the direction of his tent, and indicated where they could be found. He said he could not leave the game just then. We went to his tent where we found his mother, who showed us two robes, one of which was hers — a smaller one which she held at six dollars. Spatt'ord had pre- viously told us that $12.00 was the price of his robe. We then began to look for other robes, and saw them in various stages of completion. The process of tanning is simple, and yet, Indian tanned robes far excel those tanned by white men, in finish and value. When the hides are first taken from the animals, they must be stretched and dried, flesh side up ; if they are not in this condition when the squaws receive them, they must do it. After they are thor- oughly dried, the squaws then take all the flesh off, and reduce them to an even thickness, with an instrument, which, for want of a better name, may be termed an adze ; it is a little thin piece of iron, about two inches long on the edge, and two and a half inches deep. This is firmly tied to a piece of the thigh bone of an elk, and is used the same as a small garden hoe, by eastern farmers in cutting up weeds. When the requi- site tiiickness is obtained, the flesh side is cov- ered with a preparation of lard, soap and salt, and the robe is then rolled up and laid by for two or three days. It is then unrolled and again stretched on a frame, like a quilt, with flesh side to the sun ; in this shape it is scraped with a thin, oval-shaped piece of iron or steel, resem- bling a kitchen chopping-knife without the han- dle; this process usually lasts about two days. The robe is then taken from the frame, and drawn across a rope stretched between two trees, with the flesh side to the rope, until it becomes thoroughly dry and soft. This last process makes it very pliable, requires a good deal of time and strength, and renders the robe ready for market. Before the Indians came in con- tact with civilization, they used sharpened pieces of bone, instead of the pieces of iron we have named, and in place of the preparation of lard, soap and salt, they used buffalo brains, which are considered altogether preferable to this mixture ; the brains of cattle are also used when they can be obtained ; but the robes are taken out on the plains, or in the Platte and Republican Valleys, and brought here by wagon or rail, and of course the brains cannot very well be brought with them. The squaws laughed when we pulled out our note-book and began to write, being evidently as much astonished and interested as we ; they looked with wonder at the book, pencil, and the words we wrote. While the lazy " Bucks," sit in their tents and gamble, the squaws are laboring hard to secure means for their support. An Indian is constitutionally opposed to labor. He is evidently tired all the time.
Jackso}i — So called from a former road- master of the Union Pacific — is 99.3 miles from
Omaha, with an elevation of 1,470 feet. The Loup Valley is just over the hills to your right, and the magnificent Platte bottom lands are still stretching out before you. It has one or two stores and hears a thrifty appearance ; at one time it was supposed that this place or Columbus would be made the end of a division, but nothing has been developed on this subject within the past few years.
Silver Creek — 109.4 miles from Omaha, and 1,534 feet above the sea. It is the first station in Merrick County, as Jackson was the last in Platte County. North of this station is the Pawnee reservation, one of the finest bodies of land yet luioccupied in the State. This once powerful tribe, between whom and the Sioux a deadly hostility exists, has dwindled down to small numbers, and during 1875, they abandoned their reservation entirely and went to the Indian Territory. An attempt was made a short time since to sell a part of this reservation at an ap- praised valuation, but it was not successful, and efforts are now being made to bring it into market under the preemption laws of the govern- ment at a fixed price, ($2.50 per acre) the pro- ceeds of which are to go to the tribe on their new reservation. When this takes place Silver Creek will have a great impetus to its growth and trade, as it is the nearest railroad station to this reservation.
Clark. — Named after S. H. H. Clark, gene- ral superintendent of the Union Pacific; it is sometimes called Clark's, Clarksville and Clark's Station. It is 120.7 miles from the eastern terminus of the road, with an elevation of 1,610 feet. It has three stores, school-house, church, shops and dwellings, and is doing a fine trade; W'ith a rich country around it, and the Pawnee reservation soon to be opened on the north, it is destined to become a thrifty town.
Central City. — The county-seat of Merrick County ; has two or three churches, several stores, a brick court-house, school-house, hotels and nu- merous other buildings. Here is a bridge across the Platte. Population OOO. The Nebiaska Cential Railroad is expected to form a junc- tion with the Union Pacific, here. Local dis- sensions have injured the town in the past, and must operate to retard its growth in the future. About three miles west of this place a new side track has been put in. It is yet unnamed, though it will probably be called Lone Tree, and it is ex- pected that a post-office with the same name will be established Merrick County has two flouring- mills, both of which are run by water, taken from the Platte River. The identical "lone tree," from which the place was named, has long since disappeared, but numerous groves of cotton-wood are everywhere visible. For 40 miles here the railroad track is perfectly straight.
ChffiJiiKfu. — 142.3 miles from Omaha, and 1,760 feet above the sea. It is named after a
WME ^^€iFi€ TOmHSr.
29
former road-master of tl»e Union Pacific. The town ha.s two stores, school-house, and other buildini^s, and is in the midst of a fine, thickly settled country.
Ijorkivitotl — is 1 17.8 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 1,800 feet. It is a side track where trains mei-t and pass. A store has re- cently been opened wln're a lively trade is doiu*.
iiranil Ishiml. — Tlie end of the first divi- sion of the Union I'ucitio liailroad, l.j;J.S mili-s from (^nialia. and l,8.")l) fetit above tin; sea. The town is named after an island in tin* Platte River, which is some forty miles lon;^, and from one to three miles in width. It was first settled by a colony of (iernians from Davenport, la., in \i'u. The island is thickly si-ttled, nearly every quar- ter section beino^ occu[)ied by a thrifty farmer. The soil is wonderfully prolific, beinij composed of a black vegetable mold, and is especially adapted to corn raisin £f. The old town site of Grand Island was south of the present site, on the old emic^rant road. The first three years of this town were very severe on the settlers. They had to haul all their supplies from Omaha, and part of this tim-! they were obli<red to live on short rations. They immediately bei^an the cul- tivation of the soil, but at first had no market for their crops. This was soon remedied, how- ever, by the openinijof a market at Fort Kearny, some forty miles west, where they obtained good prices for every thiiiij they could raise. In a .short time, the rush to Pike's Peak beijan, and as this was the last place on the route wln're enii- jrrauts could obtain grain and other sup|>lies, the town grew, and many who are now in good cir- cumstances, then laid the foundations of their prosperity. In this vicinity stray buffaloes first appeared to the early settlers of the valley. They never came in large herds, but when hunted by the Indians further west and south in the Repul)- lican Valley they would be seen wandering near this place. While the war was in progress, the settlers frequently saw war parties of the Sioux pass to and from the Pawnee camp on the high i)luffs south of the Platte River, and opjx^site Fremont. When they returned from their at- tacks, they would exhibit the scalps they had taken, and manifest great glee as they swung them through the air, dangling from their spears. In the early spring of ISof). the stages from Omaha began to run. .\t first they came once a week, theu twice, and later, daily. Then the telegraph line was put up. Meanwhile the trans-continental railroad was agitated, and as it became more and more talked about, the settlers here fondly hoped that they were on the exact spot where the three converging lines, as first projvised, wouM meet. Hut they were doomed to (lisappointment. The I'niou Pacific, Eastern Division, now the Kansas Pacific, grew into an independent line, while the .Sioux City & Pacific had its course changed, finally uniting with the
Union Pacific at Fremont. But the railroad came at last in 180<i. The heavy Uxlies of tim- ber on the islands in the river ^id between the Platte and WiMjd Rivers were nearly all taken for cross-ties. It was only cott<»n-wood, but it would hold the spikes and rails for a few years until others could be obtained. Tlien the buildings on the old town site were moved wy to the rail- road and the town began to gr<jw. The round- house for the steam-horses was built, and the town was made the end of a division of the road. An eating-house was erected, and stores, shops, and dwellings followed in (piick succe.ssion. It is the county-seat of Hall County, and the first station in tlie county from the east. It has a fine large brick court-house, tliree church edi- fices, school-house, hotels, batik, and one of the largest steam fiouring-niills in the .State. This is one of the regular dining-stations on the road. Last year, 1875, the cnnq>any put up an elegant hotel for the accoimnodation of the traveling j>ublic, at which all pa.'isenger trains stop for meals. It is exceedingly well kei>t, and under its pre.sent management will command the pat- ronage of the public. Like all other towns of any imi>ortaiice in this valley. Grand Island hopes and exjwcts nujre railroads. A road to connect with the St. Joe & Denver, and the IJurlington & Missouri at Hastings, twenty-four miles .south, is nearly all graded, and will proba- bly soon be finished. A line is also projected to the north-weht, and one to the north-^-ast to reach Sioux City. Its present jx^ipulation is al>ont 1,'JOO, and its prospect.s for the future are Haltering.
The country in this immediate vicinity is well settled by a thrifty class of German farmers, wlio have dug wealth from the .soil, and when rations were scarce and border scares frequent, still hung on to their claims. The road came in 180G, and gave them communication with the outer world. The location of the roundhouse and necessary repair shops, for the division, is a great help to the town, as they give employment to quite a number of skilled mechanics. It is also the lo- cation of the government land office for the Grand Island land district. It has two weekly newspapers, the Times and Indeptndtnt, IhjIIi of which are well conducted. The new eating- house, elsewhere spoken of. is the finest on the road, thoutrh less expensive than many. It cost about ?l.'»,(MiO. Tliis is a breakfast and supper station, and the company has furnished umjde accommodations for the patrons of this hou.se.
After leaving Grand Island, a magnificent stretch of prairie country ojien.s to view. The same may be said of the entire valley, but the view in other places is more limited by bluffs anil hills than here. After jmssing Silver Creek, there is a section of the road, more than forty miles, in a straight line, but the extent of prairie bn>nght into vision there is not as large as here. Up to this point, you have doubtless witnessed
EMINENT AMERICAN EXPLORERS AND ARTISTS.
1.— Gen. Custer. 2.— Gen. Fremont. 3.— Lieut. Wheeler. 4.— Prof. F. V. Hayden. 5.— Albert Bierstadt.
6.— Maj. J. W. Powell. 7.— Thomas Moran.
TRB^ ^.-iClFic ror/7isr.
31
many proves of cotton-wood around the numer- ous dwellinfjs you liave piissed, hut they bejjin to diminish now — nearly tlie last of them being seen at
Aldfi, — the next station, some eisjht miles west of Grand Island, 101. .j milHs from Omaha, at an elevation of 1,!M(7 feet. There are one or two stt>res, a school-house, and several dwellings. It is two miles east of Wood Kiver, which is spanned by the first iron bridge on the line. All regular jnissenger trains stop at this station and receive and deliver mails. In other parts of the country, Wood River would be called a rivulet or small brook, but such streams are frequently dig- nified with the name of rivers in the West. It forms a junction with the North Channel of the Platte Uiver, just south of Grand Island. Its rist; is in tht^ blurt's across the divide, north f>f I'lum Creek, and its general course is due east. The road runs along its southern bank for several miles, and in several places it is fringed with timber. When the road was first built through here, it was well timbered, l>ut it was nearly all taken for construction purjwses and fuel. In early days, say in 18.jn-(j((, this valley was the frontier settlement of the West, and a few of tlie old pioneer log houses are still standing, though very much dilapidated. The settlers had a few *' Indian scares," and lost some stock, but beyond this, no great depredation was done. Fort Kearny wius their first murket-]>lace to which they hauled their suri)lus grain and provisions. Though Wood River is so small, it nevertheless supplies three flouring-mills with power for grinding, and there are several mill sites nnf>c- cupied. The first mill is near the iron bridge already spoken of, and the others will be noticed further on.
Wood Rivrr — is the name of the next sta- tion. It has two or three stores, several dwellings, and a new de])ot building. It is 1G9.6 miles from Omaha, and 1,074 feet above the sea. The old .station was two miles further west, and the Cath- olic church still remains to mark the place where it stood. The country around here was first settled by .some Irish families; they are indus- trious and worthy citizens, and have develojied some fine farms. Prairie, or blue joint-grass has been principally seen thus far, but now you will observe jiatches of butfalo grass which increase as you go west, and of which we shall spe;ik hereafter. This is the last station in Hall County.
Shrltou — comes next^ — a side track, depot, a few dwellings, and another of those flouring- mills s|><iken of. In January, 187(). the water in Wood River was sufficient to keep three run of burrs going in this mill for about twenty out of every twenty-four hours. The flour made at nearly all the mills on the T'nif)n Pacific finds a ready market in the mountain towns west, to ■which it is usually shipped. Shelton was named
after the present cashier of the Union Pacific road at Omaha. It has an elevation of 2,010 feet, and is 177.4 miles from the eastern tt^rminus of the rna<l.
SiirrfHsfiil Farniiuff. — The little farms which now fill up the Platte Valley as far as North Platte are occupied by people who came from the older .SUites, with very little cash capi- tal, and by homesteading or warrant or purchiise from the railroad on time, tliey have made many a snug home. To show what has lieen done by real industry, we (juote from actual records the figures of the success of a farmer in Platte County. Reginning with the year I8<i7, and up to the year 1874, .seven years, he cultivated in wheat and corn, an average of sixty to eighty acres wheat, and fifty acres corn; total l:k) acres. His re- ceipts from these two croi>s oidv, in .seven years, was §l:{.:5 14. (!.'»; ex[>ense.s, ?:4",0.")y.92 ; j.rofits, i?8,:{.'>4.l:5. besides increase of value of land, which is fully !?'J.(MKl more. This is what was done with a capital of less than i?-_'.(Kt().
Tree Vlantiitg in Sfhi'dslio. — The Ne- bra.skans celebrate a special day in the spring nionths as a holiday, in which the entire i>oj>ula- tion join hands in a hearty exerci.se at tree plant- ing; this is called Arbor Day. Travelers will notice from the car windows on their first day's ride westward from Omaha, quite a numl>er of
f»retty groves of trees, planted both as wind- ireaks for their farms, and also for timber plant- ations. The tree most popular is the cotton- wcKid, which grows very easily, sure to start, and is quite luxuriant in foliage ; however it i.n valuable for shelter and stove-wcod only, not for manu- factures. As an instance of rapiditv of growth, there are trees in the Platte Valley, which planted as cuttings, have in thirteen years nie:isured 2*2 inches in diameter. Little l>oys are tempted by large premiums from their parents to test their cajiacity at tree i)lanting on ArUir Ihiy, and as- tonishing rapidity has occasionally been known, one farmer in one day having planted from sun- rise to sundown, 14,(KKI tree.s, and in the course of one spring .sea.son, over 2(K).(KK>. tn-ttlers, as fast as they arrive, aim to accomplish two things. First, to break the sod for a corn field; next, to jilant timber slielt^^r. The wynds which blow from the west are very cf>nstant, often fierce, and a shelter is of immense value to stock and fruit trees. Hedges of white willow, .several miles in length, have been laid, which at five years from cuttings, have made a {perfect fence 15 feet high ; one farm alone has four miles of such continu- ous fence, which at four years of age was a com- plete protection. The rapidity of growth in the rich alluvial .soil of the Plattfl Valley reminds one of tn>pical luxuriance. A grove of white Jish, in twelve years, hius grown to an average of 20 inches in circumference, anci 30 fj'et high. Walnut tre«'s, in eight years, have m**asured 22 inches in circunxference, and 25 feet high. M»-
32
TME ^m€IFi€ F@¥^I8F»
pletreeSjOf twelve years,Tneasure4;5 inches around lour feet from the ground. Elms of fourteen years, show ;}6 inches in girt, and a foot in diam- eter. Honey Locusts, eleven years of age, are 30 feet high, and 30 inches around. Cotton-wood trees, of thirteen years, have reached (J6 inches in circumference, and 22 inches in diameter. White willow, same age, 45 inches in circumference. Nebraska planted 10,00(M)0() tiees in 1878.
(iibboi)., — tiu; last station on Wood River, is 182.9 miles from tlie, Missouri by rail, and has an elevation of 2,0 1(J iwX. It was formeijy the county-seat of IJutfalo County, and had a fine brick court-house erected. But the county-seat was voted to K<!arny Junction in 1871, and the building is now used for school pui'poses. Jt has a hotel, several stores, and auotlier of those Hour- ing-mills, in plain sight from the track. The l'latt(! River is some three miles distant, to the south, and glistens in the sunlight lilci! a stnnik of silver; the level prairie between is studded with farm-houses, and in the late sunnner or early autunni mnnerous stacks of grain and hay are everywhere visible around the fanners' homes. The bluffs, south of the Platte, rear their low heads in the distance, and your vision is lost on prairie, prairie, prairie, as you look to the north. Beautiful as these prairies are in the spring and early summer, their blackened surface in the fall, if burned, or their dull drab color, if unburned, is monotonous and wearying. Shrfby—haf^ an elevation of 2,100 feet, is 191.3 miles from Omaha. The town is named Kearny, and takes its name fronx General Kearny, who was an officer in the regular army during the Mexican war. Old Fort Kiiarny was located near this station, south of the Platte River, and the military reser- vation of government land still remains, though it will probably soon be brought into market. The rights, if they have any, of "squatter sovereigns" will here be tested, as nearly every cpiarter section in the whole reserve is occupied by them, some of whom have made valuable improvements in the shape of buildings, etc. It was formerly a grt'at shipping point for cattle, but the advancing tide of settlements has driven stock-men. like the Indians, still further west. OccasioiKilly, how(^ver, Texas herds are grazed near here, and the herders sometimes visit Kearny Junction, a few miles west, and attempt to run the town; they murdered a man there in 1875, in cold blood— shot him dead on the threshold of his own door — and this so incensed the inhabitants in the vicinity that they will not, probably, allow them to visit the townin future. The murderer was ^arrested, has l)een convicted, and time will tell w]u'th(>r he will be hung or not. Texas herders, as a class, are rough fellows, with long hair and beard, wide-rimmed hats, best fitting boots they can get, large spurs jingling at their heels, a small arsenal, in the shape of
Colt's revolvers, strapped to their waists with a careless neyligr-e appearance. Their chief pleas- ure is in a row; their chief drink is "whisky straight," and they usually seem to feel better when they have killed somebody. Houses of prostitution and tippling saloons follow close- in their wake. They are generous to their f)-iends, dividing even the last dollar with a comrade who is " broke ; " cowardly, treacheious and revenge- ful to their enemies. Human life is of but littile account with them. 'J'heir life is one of constant exposure, and very laboiious. They are perfect horsemen — usually in the saddle sixteen out of every twenty-four houis — and their great ambi- tion seems to be to become "a devil of a fellow," generally. Nor does it require much care or effort on their part, to fill the bill. Tliousajids of them on the plains in their luitive State, in Kansas, Colorado, AVyoming, and Nebraska "have died with their boots on," aiul we suppose thousands more will ])eiish the same way. Living violent lives, of course they nu'et with violent deaths. They are a peculiar race, answering, jwihaps, a ])eculiar purpose. The con)nninity in which they live, and the country generally, will be bet- ter off' when they have passed away, for almost ninety-nine out of every hundred goes
" Diiwn to the vile dust from wlience he sprung. Unwept, unlioiiored and unsung."
Kearny has now nothing but a side track, depot and water-tank, with a section-house and the remains of an old corral from which cattle used to be shipped. The reservation included not only land on both sides of the river, but a large island which extends east and west quite a number of miles. Tlie fort was .south of the river, and scarcely a vestige now renmins to mark the spot where the buildings formerly stood. This fort was built in 1858, by Colonel Charles May, of IMexican war fame. Three miles west of the old fort was Kearny City, which was a considerable town in the old over- land times, but it disappeared with the advent of the railroad. The .southern j^ai't of the reserva- tion is covered with sand-hills, and useless, ex- cept for grazing. Notice how the buffalo grass appears and how its extent is increased as you go further west. The new houses around the sta- tion, especially those of the squatters on the reser- vation, are increasing, which indicates that the country is fast settling up.
Kearufi JintrfioH. — A lively, enterprising town, 195.3 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,150 feet. It is the junction of the Burling- ton and IMissouri Railroad only, and owes its rapid development to this fact more than to any- thing else. Formerly the St. Joe and Denver Railroad ran trains to this place, using the track of the Burlington and Missoiui from Hastings, a smart little town twenty-four miles south of Grand Island. But this has been abandoned and it is supposed the road will build an independent
Tnt'! ^^tcurir roi'/fisr.
33
line to some point on tlie I'nion Pacific. Grand I.Hlaiid an<i Kearny .lunction liotli liope to jjft it. Kearny tJiin<'ti<)ii was liiid (nil liy the t<i\Mi (•(inipany in Scpti-inlier, lh72, aluint tlie .'^atm; time the niirliii^ton and Mi.s^onri Kailioad ar- rived ; tlie first Imnse was Imilt in An),'nst, 1H72, and tlie town lias j^Mown very lapidly ever sinet^; it now lias a jojinlation of 1,()()() Honls. six cliurch edifices, one daily newspaper, the Prcus, one weekly, 'J he I'ime^, two l»i ick hank l)uil<lin^^s and other brick blocks, with hotels, numerous sUjres, schof)l-lionse, court-house, etc. It has a daily sta<;e line to l{|oomini,'ton, a tlnivinj; town some sixty miles south in the Ke- pul>li(^■ln N'alley, ;uul (juile an extensive tiadi; trom il and the South Loup Valley <tn the north ; some ut the stores here do ipiitf! a wholi-sale tradi!. The town is fiiu-ly located on a j,'iailual slope, and from the liills or bliilTs on its north side the land in seven counties can be distinctly seen; it has (Iks vim and en(T;iy which usually cliaractcM i/.es WesttM'n towns; it is an aspirant for the capital if it is evc^r moved from Lineoln, and has j;round on the hill n-served for llu; l<jca- tion of tlie Slat(5 buildinj^'s; it also expects a railroad from Sioux City, and one from the Ile- jtublicaii Valley; alto;feth(!r its future prospects an; bri;,'ht. Splendid crops of wheat, corn, oats, barley, broom-corn, |»otato(!M, cabbages, and onions are raised in this vicinity dininj^ favorable seasons, but we rej^ard the slock businr-ss as the best ]>ayin,i^ and surest investment for settleis; the bulfalo grass, to our mind, is a sure indica- tion of it. Kearny .luncticjn is very healthy, and invalids would here find an agreeable resting- place.
Sfri'f'iiHftH — has an elevation of 2,170 feet, and is 2;)1.2 miles from the .Missouri Kiver. It is simply a side track with a secti<tn-house n<'ar by. 'I'lii! way si-ttlers have pushed up this valley during the last five, years, is marvelous.
J'Jiii ('rcvk — is 'IW.'i miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2.211 feet. In the first 200 mili'H of your journey, you have attaim-d an alti- tude more than a thousand feet above Omaha, wh'-re you stalled, and yet the ascent lias been so g.atlual that you liavt; s(;arcely nolici-d it. Kim (.'reck was so named after the cn;ek which you cross just after leaving the station going west. It was formerly le-avily timbered with elm, ash, hackberry and a few walnuts and colton-woods ; but the necessities of the road when it was built required it all and more too. Tin; Ujwn has one or two saloons, stores, school-house an<l a few dwellings. The creek rises in the bluffs north- west, and sluggishly worries through them and til!} sand, till it is fina'ly swallowed u[) by the i'latte. liut little timlier remains in this vicinity. The next station, some nine Uiili's west of Kim Crei'k, call'-d
()i'4'i'fon — has the usual side track, school- house, a store and some few dwellings. Tiiia
valley, to this point and beyond, would have boen thickly settled long before this but for climatic reasons whicli we need not name. 'J he I'latte N'alley exU-nds on either side jn-re nearly as far as the eye can reach. The town is 220..'> miles from Omaha, at an elevation of 2.:50.'» feet.
•tOHHcli/it, — Aside track; will eventually be- come a station; named alter the pay ina.»ter of the I'liion I'acific Uoiul. It is 22.'>.1 miles fioin Omaha, with an elevation of alnjut 2,:i<K> feet al*ove the sea.
I'linii i'rfeh. — So named from a creek on the .south siile of the river, whiih flows into the I'latte nearly op|K)site the town. 'Jhe htage- station, on the (»ld overland road was l(Kate«l on this creek an<l in those days it was considered q lite an im|>ortant jKiint It was the scene of a number of c(»nfliits with the havage.-- — in lact one of ihi'ir favorite )k)ints of attack; eleven white persons weri! killed and several wounded during one of these attacks. I'onr miles we.'-t of the present town-site they captured and burned a train of cars in lMtJ7; one of the train men was scaljM'd and recently was still living in or near Omaha; one was killed, and the others, we Ix-- lieve, made their escajn-. The nature of the bluffs here is such that they had a go<^>d op|K>r- tunity to attack and escap; before the settlers and emigrants could rally and give them battle. The cr(!ek ri.ses in a very l»luffy region, and inns north-east uiUi the I'latte. I'lnni (reek is the county-seat of Daw.son County; has alxmt ")00 inhabitants; a fine brick c<inrt-hoiise with jail underneath, one chur< h e«iifice, school-house, two or three hotels, stores, warehouses, etc. it is a |>oint whep! considerable liio<<in-<<>rn is pur- cha-sed and shipi»ed ; has a hemi-weekly stage line acioss the Republican Valley to Noilon, in the State of Kan.sas, and a wfekly newsjiajH-r. There is a substantial wagon bridge acio.ss the I'latte Kiver, nearly tliree-<iuarters of a mile in length. It is located in the midst of a vi-ry fine grazing country, thouudi in favorable sea.-ons crops have done well. With irrigation. i«'i haps they might be made a certainty. This town also enjoys (piite a trade with the upjxT Republican Valley. It was formerly a favoiite range for b«fTaIo«'H, and large quantities of their bleaching Umes have belli gathered and ship|x<l l>y rail to St Louis and places east. It is 2;M.I miles from Omaha, witli an elevation of 2.:{70 feet.
lUittIr with thf hnliaim ut I'ttim f'/vWi-.— While the railroail w;uh Ining built, the engineers, graders and track-layers were fre- (piently driven fiftm their work by the Indians. Not only then. I»ut after the track w;is laid an<l trains running, it was some times torn n[t and trains «litched, causing loss of lives and destruc- tion of prop<'ity. One of these attat-ks took pl.-u-e near I'liim Creek, as we will now relate. In .lulv, lH«i7, a train was ditche<l alMuit four mile.s west uf the above-named station. It
was by a band of southern Cheyennes, under a chief called Turkey Leg, who now draws his rations regularly from Uncle Sam, at the Red Cloud agency. He is a vicious looking fellow, his appearance naturally suggesting him as a fit subject for a hanging bee. At a small bridge, or culvert, over a dry ravine, they had lifted the iron rails from their chairs on the ties — raising only one end of each rail — about three feet, pil- ing up ties under them for support, and firmly lashing the rails and ties together by wire cut from the adjoining telegraph line. They were pretty cunning in this arrangement of the rails, and evidently placed them where they thought they would penetrate the cylinder on each side of the engiue. But not having a mechanical turn of mind exactly, aud disregarding the slight curve in the road at this point, they missed their calculations, as the sequel shows, as one of the rails did no execution whatever, and the other went straight into and through the boiler. After they had fixed the rails in the manner described, they retired to where the bench or second bottom slopes down to the first, and there concealed themselves in the tall grass, waiting for the train. Before it left Plum Creek, a hand-car with three section men was sent ahead as a pilot. This car encountered the obstacle, and ran into the ravine, bruising and stunning the men and frightening them so that they were unable to signal to the approaching train. As soon as the car landed at the bottom of the ravine, the Indians rushed up, when two of the men, least hurt, ran away in the darkness of the night — it was little past mid- night— and hid in the tall grass near by. The other, more stunned by the fall of the car, was scalped by the savages, and as the knife of the savage passed under his scalp, he seemed to realize his condition partly, and in his delirium wildly threw his arms out and snatched the scalp from the Indian, who had just lifted it from his skull. With this he, too, got away in the dark- ness, and is now an employe of the company at Omaha,
But the fated train came on without any knowledge of what had transpired in front. As the engine approached the ravine, the head-light gleaming out in the darkness in the dim dis- tance, fast growing less and less, the engineer. Brooks Bowers by name, but familiarly called '.'Bully Brooks" by the railroad men, saw that the rails were displaced, whistled "down brakes," and reversed his engine, but all too late to stop the train. The door of the fire-box was open, and the fireman was in the act of adding fuel to the flames within, when the crash came. That fireman was named Hendershot, and the boys used to speak of him as "the drummer boy of the Rappahannock," as he bore the same name, and micrht have been the same person whose heroic deeds, in connection with Burnr side's attack on Fredericksburg, are now matters
of history. He was thi'own against the fire-box when the ravine was reached, and literally roasted alive, nothing but a few of his bones be- ing afterwards found. The engineer was thrown over the lever he was holding in his hands, through the window of his cab, some twenty feet or more. In his flight the lever caught and rip- ped open his abdomen, and when found he was sitting on the ground holding his protruding bowels in his hands. Next to the engine were two flat cars loaded with brick. These were landed, brick and all, some thirty or forty feet in front of the engine, while the box cars, loaded with freight, were thrown upon the engine and around the wreck in great disorder. After a time these took fire, and added horror to the scene. The savages now swarmed around the train and whooped and yelled in great glee. When the shock first came, however, the con- ductor ran ahead on the noith side of the track to the engine, and there saw Bowers and Hender- shot in the position we have described them. He told them he must leave them and flag the second section of the train following after, or it, too, would be wrecked. He then ran back, sig- naled this train, and with it returned to Plum Creek. Arriving there in the middle of the night, in vain did he try to get a force of men to proceed at once to the scene of the disaster. Ko one would go. In the morning, however, they rallied, armed themselves and went out to the wreck. By this time it was near ten o'clock. The burning box cars had fallen around the brave engineer, and while the fiery brands had un- doubtedly added to his agony, they had also ended his earthly existence. His blackened and charred remains only told of his suffering. The rescuing party found the train still burning — the Indians had obtained all the plunder they could carry, and left in the early morning. In the first gray dawn of the morning they manifested their delight over the burning train in every possible way, and their savage glee knew no bounds. From the cars not then burned they rolled out boxes and bales of merchandise, from which they took bright-colored flannels, calicos, and other fancy goods. Bolts of these goods they would loosen, and with one end tied to their ponies' tails or the horn of their saddles, they would mount and start at full gallop up and down the prairie just to see the bright colors streaming in the wind behind them. But the end of this affair was not yet. The avenging hand of justice was on the track of these blood-thirsty villains, who, for some inscrutable reason, are permitted to wear the human form. In the spring of that year, by order of General Augur, then in com- mand of the military department of the Platte, Major Frank North, of Columbus, Neb., who had had no little experience in the business, was authorized to raise a battalion of two hundred Pawnee Indians, who were peaceable and friendly
Tmm ^^sciFia roi^^rsr.
35
towards the whites, and whose reservation is near Columbus, for scouting duty. Jt was tlie old experinuMit of tightintj the devil with tire to be tried over again. These scouts were to fight the various h(jstile bands of the Sioux, Anapa- hoes, aiMl Cheyennes, and assist in guarding the railroad, and the railroad builders. At the time this train w;is attacked, these sconts were scat- tered in small detachments along the line of the road between Sidney and the Laramie Plains. General Augur was immediately notitied of it, and he telegraphed Major North to take the nearest company of his .scouts and repair as .soon as possible tt) the .scene of the disaster. At that time, .Major North was about fourteen mih's west of Sidn^'y, at the end of tlie track, and his nearest company was some twelve miles further on. Mounting his horse, he rode to their camp in about Hfty minutes, got his men together, ami leaving orders for the wagons to follow, returned, arriving at the end of the track at about four o'clock in the afternoon, liy the time the.se men and horses were loaded on the cars, the wagons liad arrived, and l>y tive o'clock the train ))ulled out. Arriving at tJulesl)urg, they were attached to a passenger train, and by midnight, or within twenty-four hours after the disaster took place, he arrived at the .scene. Meanwhile other white troops, stationed near by, had arrived. In the morning he was ordered by General Augur to follow the trail and ascertain whether the at- tack had been m;vie by northern or southern In- dians. With ten men he started on tlie .scout. 'J'lie sharjKsighted Pawnees .soon struck the trail. They found where the hostile band had cros.sed the river, and where they had abandoned .some of their plunder. They followed the trail all that day, and found that it bore .south to the Republican Valley. From this fact, and other indications that only Indians would notice, he ascertained that the attacking band were .south- ern Cheyennes. Returning from this .scout, after about thii ty-tive miles' travel, he rejx)rted to the comman<ling officer at Omaha, and received orders to remain in the vicinity, and thoroughly scout the country, the belief being generally en- tertained among the oflicers that, if not followed, the Indians would soon return on another raid. Subsecjuent events proved this belief to be true, and they had not long to wait. In about ten day.s, their eamp being at Plum Creek, one of the scouts came running into camp from the bluffs south of Plum Creek, ami rejKirted that the Indians were coming. He liad discovered them in the distance, making their way in the direction of the old overland stage station, which they soon after reached. Arriving here, they unsaddled their horses and turned them loo.se in an old sod corral to feed and rest. They then began preparations to remain all night. The scouts, however, proposed to find out wlio and what they were before the evening approached.
Major North first determined to go with the company himself, but at the urgent solicitation of Capt. Janifs Murie, finally gave him charge of the expedition. 'J'here were in the command, two white commissioned officers — Lieut. Isaac Davi.s, besides the Captain — two white sj-r- geants, and forty-eight Pawnees. The company marched from their camp straight s^juth t<j tiie Platte River, which tln-y cros.sed ; tlien turning to the left followed down its bank under the bushes to within about a mile and a half of the creek. Here they were discovered by the Chey- ennes. Then there was mounting in hot ha.ste — the Cheyennes at once preparing for the fray. There were one hundred and fifty warriors to bo j ])itted against this snuiU band of fifty-two, all I told. But the Cheyenne.s, up to this time, sup- j posed they were to fight white soldiers, and were very confidi-nt of victfuy. Forming in regular I line, on tiny rushed to the confiict. Captain I Murie's command, as soon as they found they j were discovered, left the bushes on the river I baidi and went up into the road, where they I formed in line of battle and were ordered to I charge. As the order wa.s given, the Pawnees set up thf'ir war-whoop, slajiped their breasts I with their hands and shouted " Pawnee.s." 'Jhe opposing lines met on the banks of the creek, through which the scouts charged with all their speed. The Cheyennes immediately broke and fled in great confusion, every man for liimself. Then followed the chase, the killing and the scali>ing. The Indians took their old trail for the Republican Valley, and put their hor.ses to their utmost speed to e.scape the «leadly fire of the Pawnees. Night finally ended the chase, and when the six)il3 were gathered, it wjis found that fifteen Chey«'nne warriors had been made to bite the dust, and their .scalps had been taken as tro- phies of victorv. Two jtrisoners were al.so taken, one a Ixiy of ai>out sixteen years and the otlier a s(iuaw. The l)oy was a nephew of Turkey Leg, the chief. Thirty-five horses and mules were al.so taken, while not a man of the .scouts was hurt. After the ch.ise h.ad ceased, a rain-storm set in, and tired with their day's work, with the trophies of their victory, they returned to camp. It was alKiut midnight when thev arrived. Ma- jor North and a company of mfantPi-, under command of ('apt. John A. Miller, had re- mained in camp guarding governjnent and com- fiany projierty, and knowing that a battle had >een fought, were intensely anxious to learn the re.sult. When the Pawnee.s came near, it wa.s with shouts and whoops and songs of victors*. They exhibited their scalps and paraded their prisoners with great joy, and 8i>ent the whole night in scal{>dances and wild revelry-. This victory put an end to attacks on railroad trains by the Cheyennes. The l>oy and squaw were kept in the camp of the Pawnee.s until late in the season, when a big council was held with the
36
TME ^^€IFW WQWMIBW.
Brule Sioux, Spotted Tail's band, at North Platte, to make a new treaty. Hearing of this council, Turkey Leg, chief of the Cheyennes, sent in a runner and offered to deliver up six white captives held iu his band for the return of the boy and the squaw. After the necessary preliminaries had been effected, the runner was told to bring the white captives, that the ex- change might be made. The boy held by the scouts was understood to be of royal lineage, and was expected to succeed Turkey Leg in the chief- taincy of the tribe. After the exchange had taken place, the old chief would scarcely allow the boy to leave his sight — such was his attach- ment to him, and manifested his delight in every possible way over his recovery. The white cap- tives were two sisters by the name of Thompson, who lived south of the Platte River, nearly oppo- site Grand Island, and their twin brothers ; a Norwegian girl taken on the Little Blue River, and a white child born to one of these women while iu captivity. They were restored to their friends as soon as possible.
The Next Attack, — The Indians were not willing to have the iron rails that should bind the shores of the continent together laid in peace, and made strenuous and persistent efforts to prevent it. On the 16th of April, 1868, a "cut off " band of Sioux, under a scalawag chief, named Two Strikes, attacked and killed five section-men near Elm Creek Station, taking their scalps, and ran off a few head of stock. They were never pursued. On the same day, and evi- dently according to a pre-arranged plan, a part of the same band attacked the post at Sidney. They came up on the bluffs north of the town and fired into it. But no one was injured from their shooting at that time. Two conductors, however, named Tom Cahoon and William P>lmunson, had gone down the Lodge Pole Creek, a little way to fish. They were unobserved by the Indians when the firing took place. Hearing the re- ports they climbed up the bank to see what was going on, and being seen by the Indians, they at once made an effort to cut them off, though they were only a mile or so from the post. The savages charged down upon them, and shot Cahoon, who fell forward on the ground. The Indians immediately scalped him and hsft him for dfsad. JMr. Edmunson ran towards the post as fast as he could, and drawing a small Derringer pistol, fired at his pui-suers. Thinking he had a revolver and would be likely to shoot again if they came too close, they did not venture up as they had done, but allowed him to escape. He got away with some eight or nine arrow and bullet wounds together and carrying four arrows sticking in his body- H« was taken to the hospital, and rapidly recovered from his wounds. Aft(n' the Indians had gone, the citizens went after the body of I\lr. Cahoon, whom they supposed dead, but to their
surprise he was still alive. They brought him into the post, where he recovered, and is now running on the road.
Attach at OgalaJla. — In September of the same year, the same band of Sioux attempted to destroy a train between Alkali and Ogalalla. They fixed the rails the same as at Plum Creek. As the train came up the rails penetrated the cylinders on each side of the engine, as it was a straight track there; the engine going over into the ditch, with the cars piling up on top of it. The engineer and one of the brakemen who was on the engine at the time, were thrown thiough the window of the cab, and were but little hurt. The fireman was fastened by the tender against the end of the boiler, and after the train had stopped, there being no draft, the flames of the fire came out of the door to tlie fire-box upon him, and the poor fellow was literally roasted alive. He was released after six houi's in this terrible position, during which he begged the attendants to kill him, but lived only a few moments after his release. All the trains at this time carried arms, and the conductor, with two or three passengers, among whom w-as P'ather Ryan, a Catholic priest of Columbus, Nebraska, seized the arms and defended the train — the Indians meanwhile skulking among the bluffs near the track, and occasionally firing a shot. AVord was sent to North Platte, and an engine and men came up, who cleared the wreck. Mean- while word was sent to ]\Iajor North, then at Willow Island, to take one company of his scouts and follow the Indians. He came to Alkali and reported to Colonel IMizner, who was marching from North Platte with two companies of cavalry, all of whom started in pursuit. They went over to the North Platte River, crossed that stream and entered the sand-hills, whei-e the scouts over- took and killed two of the Indians ; the whole party going about thirty-five miles to a little lake, where the main body of Indians had just left and camped, finding the smouldei-ing em- bers of the Indian fires still alive. That night some of the white soldiers let their camp fiies get away into the prairie, and an immeuvse piairie fire was the result. This, of course, alarmed the Indians, and further pursuit was abandoned, much to the disgust of the scouts. Colonel IMizner also claimed that his rations were run- ning short, but from all the facts we can learn, he lacked the disposition to pursue and capture those Indians. At least, this is a charitable con- struction to put upon his acts.
In October of the same year (1868), the same band of Indians attacked the section-men near Potter Station, drove them in and run off about twenty head of horses and mules. JNIajor North and his scouts wei*e immediately sent in pursuit. Leaving camp at AVillow Island, the command was soon on the ground. It was evidently a small raiding party, and Major North sent a
TMB ^siciFic roMiisr.
37
Lieiit'-naiit and fifteen of his men after them. Thi'V struck their trail, loll<.>w»-«l them to the North Platte Kiver, which they cm^xil. followed and overhauled them in the .sand-hilLs, killing two, recapturing a part of the stolen horses, and re- turned without loss. The Indians have made some efforts to ditch a few trains sinc»> that year, but have effected no serious damage. Their efforts of late have mostly been contined to stock stealing, and they never seem so happy as w hen they have succeeded in running off a large num- ber of horses and mules. When the road was first built it was th-ir habit to cross ingoing south and north, several times in each year. They roam- 1 with the buffaloes over the plains of Xebrask;i, Colorado, Wyoming and Kansas. The effort of the governniMit of late luis been to confine them on their reservations, ami the rapid disappr'arance of the buffaloes from the regions nam-d have given them no excuse for hunting in thi country now crossed by railroads and filling up witli settlers.
Coyote — is the n?xt station, simply a side track with a s3ction-house near by. But little timber is visible at this place, though the bottom lands begin to wid.Mi, giving an extended view. Tliis is not a timb.-r country, and wherever it is found, the traveler will please bear in mind that it is tlie exception and not the rule. The islands in the river doubtle-ss had some timber, but the rn )st of it has long since disapp'^ared. Occxsion- ally you may see a few scattering trees which havi been left by the prairie fires, and which stauil in inaccessible places. This side track is 2-JJ.l miles from (^maha, and 2,440 feet above th> sea. The next station is
Coztifl — so named after a gjentlemaji from Cincinnati, Ohio, who purchased alx>ut 4U,0<KJ acres of land here from the railroad company ; laid out th; t^wn; built quite a number of houses ; induced people to settle here : ha.s resold a good deal of his land, but still has al>out 20,0(K) acres in the imin'diate vicinity. Along the rail- ro,td track, w.^tof Plum Creek, the traveler will n>tice that the buffalo grass has been rooted out by what is called prairie or blue joint grass. This last is an animal grass and is killed by frost, after which it resembles dark colored brick — a reddish brown appearand. It has but little nutri- m.Mit after the frost com 's, but if cut and curetl in July or August, makes an excellent quality of hay. The buffalo grass is just over the divide a little way, but is giving way to that just nametl. Some men of capital near C<^iEiid. are interest- ing themselves in sheep raising, and frequently from this place west you will see large herds of cattle. Cozad is '2\'i.\ miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,480 feet. It has two or three stores, scluwl-house. hotel, several large dwellings, an 1 with favorable seastins for growintr croj>s in the future, will beoonj^ quite a town. The Platte Valley at this jtt.iut i» alM>iit tw.-iity mil.s widi-.
Wiltow Inlatid — is the next station; so named from the large number of willow bu-hes on the island in the river near by. It is ■J.j<J.1 niil>-s from the Missouri, and has an elevation of 2..j11 feet. The prairie or blue-joint gra^s still con- tinues along the side of the track, and the bluffs on the south side of the river seem more abrupt. They are full of ravines or " draws," and these .«oiue- times have timber iii them. At this station a large quantity of cedar piles and tel.-graph jk-I'-s are delivered. They are hauU'd some forty mil«-s from the canons in the S:>uth Ix>up Vall'-y. There is a store at this station and a corral near by where stock is kept; with a few old log and mud buildings, rapidly j.oiiig to decay in the vicinity. The plon»' of this place, if it ever had any, has long since departeil, but it may. never- theless, yet iHtfune the pride of stt^k-iiien, who shall count their low ing herds by the thou>aiid.
Grand Duke Alejti^ First liuffalo Hunt.
During the visit of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, to the United States, the ini(>erial jarty were escorted to the plains, and enjoyed the excite- ment of a buffalo hunt, over the western prairies. Connect«Hl with the chase were some inci<ients of rare curiosity and i>leasure. As the only repre- sentative of the great Russian nation, he has s**en the novelty of military life on the frontier; shak- en hands with parti.iUy tamed Indian warriors, and smoked the pij«e of j>eace in ancient style. Among the oimpany were Buffalo Bill, a noble .son of the wild West, and Generals .^heriilan and Caster. The red men app»'areti in a grand pow-wow ami war-dance, and indulged in arrow practice for his particular benefit.
The party started fn>m camp Alexis. Willow Creek, Nebraska in Januan.-, 1 S72. For the hunt the Duke's dress consisted of jacket and trowsers of heavy gray cloth, trimmed with green, the buttons bearing the lmi>erial Russian coat-«'f- arins; he wore his Ixiota outside his tn>wsers. his cap was an Australian turl^an, with cloth top; he carried a Ru>sian hunting knife, and an American revolver n-cently jin-sente*! to him, and l>earing the coat-of-arms oi tlie United States and of Rus>ia on the handle.
General Custer appeared in his well-known frontier buckskin hunting costume, and if. in- stead of the comical sealskin cap he wf>re. he had onlv ha«l feathers fastene<i in his flowing hair, he would have {massed at a distance for a great In- dian chief.
Buffalo Bill, the famous scout, was dressed in a buckskin suit trimmed with fur. and wore a bl.i ' ' hat, his long hair hanging in ring-
It; ~ >houlderH.
(i i:ii- "i- >ight»-<I in a longcanon with broken sides and hii;h hills on either side, forming a ma'^iific'-nt arena.
The (irand Duke and Custer start»tl off. and ;».< th.'v wetit C"ii-t.r i>ull>-<l I'ut hi- r< M.Ivt-r, ai;il
38
TME ^^€IFt€ TOW'BIBT'.
said, " Are you ready, Duke ? " Alexis drew off his glove, grasped his pistol, and with a wave of his hand replied, " All ready now. General." Buf- falo Bill had been selected to show the Grand Duke how the buffaloes would stand at bay when suddenly attacked. A cow was singled out to show him how fleet of foot the females are, and the speed and skill essential to overtake and kill them. As soon as she espied them she started off at full speed, the Duke and Custer after her. Finding herself hard pressed, she ran up a steep declivity on the right side of the canon, and gain- ing a footing on the slope, kept along the narrow ledge, while the Duke and Custer followed in a line along the bottom of the canon. The chase was most exciting, and the Grand Duke, exhib- iting an enthusiasm and daring which the most
elevation of 2,637 feet, and 268.4 miles from the eastern terminus of the road. The island in the river, from which the station is named, is quite large, and formerly had considerable timber for this country. An occasional tree may yet be seen. McI*lierson — is 277.5 miles from Omaha, and 2,695 feet above the sea. It is the station named after the fort which is located south of the Platte River, on a military reservation, and nearly opposite the station. There is a wagon bridge across the river connecting the two places. The fort is about seven miles from the station, and is located near some sjirings formerly called " Cotton-wood Springs." It bears the name of the gallant general who fell before Atlanta, in 1864, in the war for the preservation of the Union. But few soldiers are now kept at this
GRAND DUKE ALEXIS KILLING HIS FIRST BUFFALO.
experienced western hunter could not have sur- passed, pressed his game until she turned upon him. Describing a semi-circle with his horse, he dashed to the other side of her, and taking deliberate aim, discharged the contents of his revolver into her fore shoulder, as quick as a flash of lightning. The buffalo fell dead upon the instant. Thus, as he telegraphed to his fa- ther, the Czar of Russia, he killed the first wild horned monster that had met his eye in America. The sport continued for two days, and ended with a series of Indian festivities.
Warren — is a side track 260.4 miles from Omaha, and 2.570 feet above the sea. A section- house stands near by. The valley here narrows, and the bluffs on both sides come near the river.
Brady Island — is the next station, with an
fort, though at the time the war was in progress, and afterwards during the building of the road, and in the years of Indian conflict that raged on the frontier, it was a post of considerable import- ance. Immense quantities of hay are annually cut near this place, with which government and private contracts are filled. A part of the Sev- enth Iowa Cavalry, under Major O'Brien, camped on the site of the fort in 1866, and afterwards troops from the regular army were stationed here.
Gannett — named after J. W. Gannett. Esq., of Boston, and present auditor of the Union Pacific Railroad — is a side track with adjacent section- liouse ; is 285.2 miles from Omaha, and 2.752 feet above tlie sea. All the stations for from fifty to a hundred miles east of this, are located in an
TME ^siCIFIC TOMmiST.
39
excellent grazing country, and cattle and sheep are coining in to occupy it.
Five miles from Gannett, the railroad crosses the North Platte Kiver on a pile bridge. There is a side track and two section-houses just east of the river, the side track for iiay cars, and one of the section-houses near the bridge for tiie watchman, who walks its entire length after the
Eassage of every train. The bridge is planked y the railroad company, and rented by Lincoln County, so that wugons, teams and stock have free passage. After leaving Cozad, the number of settlers' cabins and houses diminisiies till you come to the North I'Litte Valley. S>uth of the river between Fort Mcl'herson and North Platte, there are quite a immber of homesteatlers, who have farmed it for a few years, with indif- ferent success, having to contend with drought and grasshoppers. J'he soil has been proven to be prolific, but some plan of irrigation will have to be adopted, before agriculture can be made a paying investment. In choice locations, how- ever, such as pieces of low bottom land near the river, crops of potatoes and '* garden truck " have been successfully raised for several years.
We have now entered upon the great stock- growing region of the continent, where cattle and hoi"ses can be grown and kept the year round without hay, and where the buffalo grass, except- ing along the streams, affords the rich nutriment tluit produces fat, and renders cattle ready for market without grain.
The North Platte River will be crossed again at Fort Steele. It has its source in nortlieru Colorado, west of the Medicine Bow Mountains. The Laramie River, which you cross just beyond Laramie City, and the Sweetwater, which rises ill the Wind River Mountains north of Point of Rocks, and runs through the great South Pass, are two of its principal tributaries. It drains an immense region of country, and is fed l)y innu- merable streanis and spring from the Black Hills of Wyoming, the Wind River Mountains, the Medicine Bow Mountains, the .Sweetwater Moun- tains, the Big Horn Mountains, Rattlesnake Hills and other elevations. The traveler must not be confused bv the term " Black Hills." The Black Hills of \\ yo6iing are those which you cross be- tween Cheyenne and Laramie City, the summit of which you reach at Sherman. These are not the Black Hills of which so much has been said of late, in connection with the discovery of gold and the Sioux Indians. They are called the Black Hills of Dakota, and the nearest point to them on the railroad is Sidney. From the im- mense amount of water which runs into the North Platte River, it is a nivster}* w hat becomes of it all, as the river is shallow and sluggish where it is crosse«l near its mouth. Its treach- erous l)ottom of ever varying and shifting quicksands, like that of the .Siuth Platte. d()es not make it a good fording stream for wagons,
though the water, except in certain seasons of of the year, is the smallest obstacle. L'p to the spring of 1873. this river was tlje southern bound- ary of what the Sioux Indians claimed as their reservation, and it was only by the payment of a special appropriation of ?'_'.").000, that they re- liuijuished the right to hunt as far south as this river. The princiftal milit;ir>' jtosts on the stream, are Forts Fetterman, usually occujiied by but few troops, and Laramie. The latter is at pre.sent the principal militan,- dejxit for l>oth troops and sujijilies off the line of the railroad, in this part ot the West. It is f>() miles from Cheyenne, its nearest railroad station, and the jMiint from whence nearly all the frontier exf)e- ditiuns into northern Wyoming, wesU-rn Dakota, and the Big Horn and Powder River countries, start. The Laramie River and the North Platte form a junction near the fort.
The South Platte, which the railroad still fol- lows for about eighty-five miles, is similar to the North Platte, so far as external observations go. It rises in the mountains south and west of Denver, receives a large number of tributaries; the chief of which is the Cache La Poudre, which forms a junction with it at Greeley, and then pursues a due east course to the Missouri River. The junction with the North Platte is formed a few miles below tlie bridge just sj>oken of. On neither of these streams, nor on any of their tributaries can agricultural pursuits be carried on without irrigation, and not always with success with irrigation. The hand of the AlnuL'hty has placed its ineffaceable maik n^ion all this va>t region of country — that it is His pasture ground and adapt e«l. so far as is known, to no other pur- pose. Millions of buffaloes have ranged over these bleak and desolate-looking plains for ages past, and from the short grass which grows in abundance thereon, have derived a rich suste- nance. Thev have gone or are f.ast going, and the necessities o^ the civilization which follows, calls for beef and mutton. These plains must become the great beef -producing region of the continent. Thev are the Almighty's pasture grouinls. and if there are not a thousand cattle uyxm a hill, there will surely be " cattle u|K)n a thousand hills." The numerous tributaries to these two rivers are from ten to fifteen miles apart, with high roll- ing prairies Itetween — affording abundance of water with adjacent pasture, and this pasture is the home of the richest natural grasses.
Before you re.ach the North Platte River, vou will see conclusive evidence of the adaptability of these plains to stock-raising, and from this time on to where the river is atniin crossed, you will see numei-ous herds of cattle and flocks of shee]>. The snows of winter in these elevat^nl regions are dry. and not frequent. Driven by fierce winds, they will fill the liollows and small raviiies. while the hills are always left bare, so that cattle and sheep can always obtain access to
TIXK t\-lClJir TOI'RIST.
41
the fp'ouiul, and the huffalo and biincii gras.ses with wliich it is covered. While luiy must he cut for the sustenance t)l' sheep duriii;,' tiie few days storms may hist, and for tiie liorses and cattii- tliat may he kept up; the vast herds, wliellier of caltle or horses, will j,'(j throuijh the most severe winter that has ever been known in tliis re<^ion without hay or shelter, except that afforded l>y the ravines. The experiment has been repeatedly tried, and the vast lierds that are now kept in tliis rejrion. attest the succe.ss of that experiment. In Lincoln County, of which the town of Nortli IMatte is the county-seat, there are probably (iO,()(K) head of cattle alone. Eastern farmers and stock-raisers will see that the att'mpt to provide hay for this vast number would be useless, and if required wouKl render the keepinjT of so many in a sin^rle county un- profitai)le. 'J'he expense of provi(Jing hay would in tlie tirst place lie p^reat. and the expense of contininij the cattle ancl feedinj^ it out would be still ifreater. And if the l)uffaloes have lived in this country year after year, during the flight of the centuries without hay, why may not cattle and horses do likewise? The stock-grazing region to which allusion is here made, comprises in fact all the country west of the lOOth meridian of longitude, to the base of the Kocky Mountains, and the elevated plateaus or great parks lying between the eastern and western ranges of the same mountains; while the extent north and south reaches from the (iulf of ^b'xico to the northern boundary line of tlie United States. Three great railroad linos already penetrate this vast stock range, and a decade will hardly ]>ass away before other lines will follow. A rea<ly outlet to the best stock markets in the country is tlierefore always accessible and always open. Hut with all the natural advantages of this region, not every one who may be captivated with the idea of a stock raiiche and lowing herds, can make it a success. Tht- business re(iuires capital and care — just the same attention that is given to any other successful business. Xor can it be safely entered upon under the impression that a fortuuf! can be made in a day or in a year. It is a l)usiness liable to losses, to severe winters, un- favorable seasons and a glutted market. It does not run itself. By reason of a single hard win- ter, one man in the stock business has been known to lose a hundred thousand dollars, ami the losses that same winter were projK)rtionally severe ujhjii those who were not as able to suffer tiiem. It is a business which, if closely attendi'd to, promise.s large returns uiH)n the capital in- vested, and whidi. at tlie same time, is liable to h"avy losses. It is more sure than mining and more profitable than agricultural or dairy-farm- ing, nut we shall have more to .say of this hereafter, with specific illustrations as to what can be done in both sheep husbandry antl cattle raising. Returning to the two rivers, one of
which we crossed near their junction — the va.st area of bottom lands continue to widen, and for a long dislanee i-ach has its broad valley. Leav- ing the North I'lalte here we .>hall a.scend the S.uth riatte to .Julesburg. About one mile west of the bridge, we ariive at
yoi'tli I'latte — tin- end of anotlier division of the liiion Pacific Railroad. It is 'J!»l miles from Omalia, and li.ThlJ feet al)Ove the sea. It is a thriving city, and ont-^ide of Omaha h;is the most extensive machine and repair shops on the line of the road. The roun<lhouse hiLs twenty stalls, and it, together with the machine and repair shops, are substantially built of brick. In these shops engines an<l cars are either repaired or entirely built over, — a jirocess which canncjt haidly be called repairing, but which neverthe- less renders tiiem as good as new. 'i'he engine- room for the macl»ine-shop.s, is a nio«lel of neatness; everything in and around it being kei>t in }>erCect orih r.
'ihe town has about 2.f)00 iidiabitants, two wide-awake newsiiai>ers ; the lifjniUicnn being a weekly, and the \Veslfini Xibru-skian In-ing a semi-we»kly. together with several wlmlesale and retail stores and shops of various kinds. The Railroad House is the largest and h-ading hotel. Alxjut loO men are given constant emploum-nt in the .shops. There are ahso one or two i-om- panies of troops stationed here, not to jirotect the railroad from the savages, for that necessity iias jtassed. but for economy in keeping and convenience for frontier duty. The town also has two or three church edifices, a brick conit- hou.se and brick .sch<K)l-house. Itoth new. and Ujth presenting a fine apjH'arance. There are also .several elegant private residences. It is beauti- f nllv located, and has excellent drainage. '1 he bluffs or hills are in near view, iKjth north and south, and give quite a picturesque apiM.'anuice to the country in the immediate vicinity. Ihe lilack Hills excitement, in regard to tlie discovery of gold, has had some effect u|>on the town, and a railroad off to the noith-west is talked. It is tlie home of some of the lea<ling stock-men of this .section of country-. Near this citv. in 1^75, Col. K. I). Webster and Mrs. A. W! Randall, wife of the late ex-j>ostmaster-general Handall, formed a copartnership to engau'e in the daining busines.s, and erected a che«».se factor^-. During the year they mainifactured al>out 'M) tons of cheese, which brought them a fair return. Col- onel Webster claims that tlie exp«'riiuent has deinonstrat*"*! that the business can be carrij-d on with profit, and he believes it will eventually become the leading feature of this part of the countrv. He further says that the onlv draw- back at j)resent is the scarcity and unreliability of help, it Wing dilhcnlt to obtain a sntficient number of "milkei-s" at a rea«»nable price to milk a large nnniber of cows. In iSTt't the firm pix)j>oses to make cheese from th<- milk of from
42
TME ^m€iFI€ WQW^mW.
one to two hundred cows, and the balance of their herd — some five hundred — will be devoted to stock-raising. This dairy establishnaent is one of the new enterpi-ises of North Platte, and, if successful in the future, will make it the prominent cheese-market of the West.
The town has abundant attractions for invalids needing rest — there being antelope and deer in the hills, fish in the streams, and an abundance of pure air to invigorate the body. It has a bright future and is destined to become one of the leading towns on the line of the railroad. Formerly it was an eating-station, but as now run, trains pass it in the night. The road was finished to this town in the fall of 1866, from which time until the following June it was the point where all overland freight was shipped. It was a rough town then, but this state of affairs did not last long, and the character of the jilace rapidly improved with the arrival of permanent set- tlers. There were a few In- dian scares, but no serious at- tack was made by the savages upon the town. Two or three trains were ditched and wrecked, both east and west, but this was the extent of the damage done by them. Of this, however, we shall have more to say in another place.
Chimneu Bock.—^ezx North Platte is the far-famed Chinmey Rock, two and a half miles from the south bank of the Platte River. It is composed of a friable yellowish marl, which can be cut readily with the knife. It rises in the foi-m of a thin, perpendicular shaft above a coni- cal mound, whose base slopes gradually out toward the plains. It appears to be the re- newal of the old chain of hills and rocks which bounded the valley, but which, from their soft- ness of material, 'have been disintegrated by wind and weather. This possessing harder ma- terial has withstood these effects, although it is steadily yielding. In the days of Fremont's ex- pedition, it was estimated that it was over 200 feet in height, but other travelers and explorers who had seen it years before, stated that its height had been as great as 500 feet. In those days it was a landmark visible for forty or fifty miles; now it is liardly 35 feet in height. Around the waist of the base runs a white band
CHIMNEY ROCK, NEAR NORTH PLATTE.
days. And the
which sets off its height, and relieves the uni- form yellow tint. It has often been struck by lightning.
TJie Overland Pony Express.
The Pony Express (of which few now remem- ber those days of excitement and interest) was started in 1860, and the 3d of April, that year, is the memorable date of the starting of that first trip. In those days, the achievements of the Pony Express were attended with an eager excite- ment hardly less interesting than the building of the Pacific Railroad itself. " Overland to Califor- nia in thirteen dai/s," was repeated everywhere as a remarkable achievement. The first company organized was formed in California in 1858 or 1859, under the name of the Central Overland California and Pike's Peak Express. At that time, with no telegraph or even stage line across the continent, this attempt was considered extra- ordinarily au- dacious. The services plan- ned and exe- cuted by the company were a pony express, with stations sixty miles apart, the en- tire distance from St.Joseph, Mo., to Sacra- mento. The time occupied between ocean and ocean was foui'teen days, and from St. Joseph to San Francisco, ten the company re-
schedule of quired the pony express to make trips in the following time :
From St. Joseph to Marvsville, 12 hours.
From St. Joseph to Fort Kearny, 34 )iour8.
From St. Joi-eph to Laramie, W liours.
From St. Joseph to Fort Brldger, lo8 lioiirs.
From St. Joseph to Salt Lake, 121 liours.
From St. Joseph to Camp Flovd, 128 hours.
From St. Josejih to Carson City, 118 hours.
From St. Joseph to Placerville, 22G hours.
From St. iloseph to Sacramento, 232 liours.
From St. Joseph to San Francisco, 240 hours.
An express messenger left once a week from each side with not more than ten pounds of matter. The best of riders were chosen from among trap- pers, scouts and plains men, familiar with all the life of the route, fearless, and capable of great physical power, endurance and bravery. The ponies were very swift and strong, a cross be- tween the Anterican horse and Indian pony, and after each run of sixty miles, waited till the ar- rival of the messenger from the opposite direc-
%^,-j ijiir roi'i^i ST.
43
OVERLAND I'ONY EXPRESS PUHSLEU UV IIIOHWAYMEX
tion, when each returned. The riders were con
stantly ex[)osed to dangers from Indian attacks and pursued by hijjhwaymen ; and to compen- sate them for this risk they received tlie larpe salary of !81.'2()(> a month each; and the modest
firice charged for the conveyance of business etters was ."Jo.OO, gold, per quarter ounce. At the time of the departure of tlie first messenger from .St. Joseph, a .special train was run over the Hannibal and .St. Joseph Railroad to bring the through messenger from New York, and a " Pony Express Extra " was issued of two pages, by the St. Joseph Daily Gazette, containing telegraphic news from all , — p a r 1 3 o f the world, with a heavily leaded account of the new enterprise, and sending gre(!tings to the press of Califor- nia.
The route from .St Joseph. after reachiut,' the Platte Val- ley, followed just north of the present track of the Pacific Rail- road to Lara- mie, then up the "ld ponv express stATDy Swfot Water to Salt Lake, and ilown the Hum- boldt to Sacramento. Night and day the messen-
gers spurred their ponies with the greatest speed each could endure. Often on arriving at an express station the messenger, without waiting to dismount, tossed his bag to another already waiting, and each were off at once, back again, and thus for eight days the little express bag traveled, arriving at the rail U'rminus, rarely a minute behind the prescribed time, a total dis- tance of L'.fKMl miles.
For two years this system was kept up, until the telegraph line was finished in IbW, when the company dissolved with a loss of 8"2<KI,(MK(. As an instance of rapid speed, once, very important dis-
patche,s — e 1 e c - tion news — were carried from St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., 625 miles, in sixty-nine h'lurs. the last ten miles iK'ing m.ide in thirty- one m i n u t es. Onthisandnext ]>age. we give two illustrations characteristic of these times. O n e engraving is taken from a painting of (J.
AT < lIKF-iK I KK.KK. SKUKASKA. fj, ^j. Ottluger,
I of .Salt Lake City, which represents the express 1 rider da.<<hing along and cheering the telegraph
44
TMM ^'^€IWI€ WWWMl&r.
men who were erecting the poles. This is an actual scene, as, in the summer of 1862, while the telegraph was under construction, the flitting by of the Pony Express was an almost daily occur- rence. An illustration is also given of one of these express stations at Cheese Creek, Neb., which was soon afterwards abandoned as a tiling of the past. The government mails were carried by special contract of the Overland Mail Com- pany with the United States government, which was started in 1858, who contracted with them to run a monthly mail from San Francisco to the Missouri River for a considei-ation of .$650,000 annual compensation. Of this company, John Butterfield who di'ove the first coacli, was presi- dent. The route chosen was the Ox Bow, via. Santa Fe, but in 1860 the Indians became so
the diiver may be heard shouting loudly, or with terrific whoop — a mile or so before his station is reached the keepers have heard it — and as his stage rattles up, the new relay of hoi'ses is ready, and in two or three minutes the stage is on its way again. After a few days' journey, the travelers become used to the swinging motion of the stage, and sleep as naturally as if made for such a life.
A Word with Invalids.
Thousands of invalids, especially consumptives, visit the mountains and California coast, every year, in search of health, and to try the effect of a change of climate in restoring them to activity and vigor. There can be no question but that many have been benefited by the change, and it is a fact equally patent that many have left good homes,
"j^ --- -i^iF^ y^T? ^^~g^ PONY EXPRESS SALUTING THE TELEGRAPH.
troublesome that the route was changed to that of the Pony Express, and soon afterwards a daily mail was established at an expense of .|1,000,000 annually. The incidents of overland stage life have been repeated over and over again in books of Western adventure. Here and there were lonely [)ost-offices away out on the distant prairies or plains. No passengers to set down or take up, th(i driver throws out his mail-bag, catches the one thrown to him, and whirls on without stop- ping, or scarcely checking the speed of his team. Morning, noon or night comes the inevitable " refn'shment stnfion,"' such as it is, where the weary passengers, well shaken up, were glad to re'jfale themselves on pork and beans, corn bread, and "slumgnllion " — the Far Western name for tea. Toward the middle of the night, perhaps,
kind friends, and plenty of care — to die alone aTid among strangers. With this last class the main trouble is, they wait too long in the East before starting. The disease, more or less rajjid in its strides, gets too firm a hold upon the sys- tem— becomes too deeply rooted to be easily thrown off ; then they start for health and rest that cannot be found, and most always go too far in search of it. There are a few words of ad- vice to these people, which are the result of years of observation and experience on the plains and among the mountains.
First, the discovery of a tendevcy to lung and throat diseases should be a sufficient incentive to prompt one to an hnmcdinle change of cli- mate. Do not wait until a change becomes hope- less because of the advanced stages of the disease.
'M^.
WME ^^QIFW TQUSIST.
45
Second, do not at Jir4 go too far. This is anotluT mistake fri'(iueiitly coiiiinitted by those wlio filially jff't startt'd.
Tliinl. (U) not I/O iiio fast. Hiniieiiiber the railroad from Omalia. in less than two days, will take you to an altitude of moie than 8.000 fet-t, and this is a severe test on a pair of healthy lnn;;s, to say nothiiitj of its effect upon weak ones. First po as far as (Jiaiid Island, and stop. This placi- is l.S.ll) feet above the sea, and yuu are in the midst of a fine prairie country, with a generally clear atmosphere and balmy breezes. Here are good hob'l accommodations, in a thickly settled region, where you can obtain plenty of fresli milk, cream and eggs, and such
either along the stream or on the adjoining high- lands, still camping out. until you reach North riatte. 'Ihen take another rest, l(K)k around th.- country, mount your horse and ride out to the cattle ranclies and live with the lierdcrs for a time. Do not be in a hurry to git away, and after you liave been here a month or six weeks, if you still improve, or even hold your own with the characti-r of the liff hi-rein prescribed, it will be safe for you to go still farther, and in the saini- manner. Hut if you are not bt-nefited by the triji thus far. it will be better for you to return to your homes and friends, where loving liands can smooth your jiillow and administer comfort dur- ing your declining days.
BL'KKAI-O UUNTINU,
other articles of diet as are necessary and condti- cive to your welfare. Hide or walk out from town; go arouml among the farmers, and if. after a month or so, you improve and wish to go farther, buy a team and wagon, and from this place go along leisurely overland, camping out if the weather is favorable. There are opjmrtiini- ties for hunting and fishing, along the road, which will afford amnsenvnt and recreation. When yon get to Kearny Junction, stop a few weeks. Notice the effect of your new mode of life and the climate upon your health, and if you simply hold your own. it is safe for you tn take another step up the Platte Valley in your westward journey. Leisurely pursue your way.
If the journey has benefited vou, pursne it overland and camping out. to Sidney or Chey- enne. up the Lodge I'ole Valley and along side of the railroad, or at tlidesburg go up the South Platte Valley to (Jrecley. You are now, if at C'hevenne. ovr-r ().(MM) feet above the sea. and be- tween .i.(MK» and fi.tMlO fct at either fJreeley or Denver, in the miilst of a rarifie<i and (by atmos- phere. If your h'-alth is regained, do not think of returning, for this is almost sure to bring on a relapse, which is usually sudden, and from wliich there is no escape; your safety deperjds upon your remaining in these hitrh altitudes, and on the hiirh and dry plains of the West. A trip down in New Mexico, and acro.ss the plains to
46
WME ^m€iFI€ F@¥^I&F.
Arizona, will also prove beneficial. In the old overland times, thousands of consumptives re- gained their health in driving teams, and by slowly crossing the plains, who would have died if the same journey had been taken on the cars. By the latter mode, the change from a damp and heavy atmosphere in the East, to the rarified and dry air of the plains and mountains, is too sud- den ; and after all, if the disease has become thoroughly seated, it is doubtful if any change will be effectual. It is an experiment which should only be tried with all possible safeguards thrown around it.
Jiiiffalo Grass. — After you have passed the stations of North Platte and Sidney, you will ob- serve the entire country carpeted with a short, dried up grass growing in little bunches. This is the famous buffalo grass which covers thousands of miles of the plains northward and southward and westward. Though it gives to the country a dried look, as if the very appearance of desola- tion and sterility, yet it is the richest grass ever known in the world. The entire State of Ne- braska is famous for its remarkable variety of grasses. The Platte Valley is the home of no less than 149 varieties, all native to the soil, and were it not for the extraordinary beauty and luxuriance of the green carpet the grasses make, the Valley of the Platte would be almost wholly devoid of interest. The buffalo grass is rarely over two to three inches in height, and its seed is produced on flowers almost covered by leaves close to the ground. It grows in little tufts, broad and dense, and is exceedingly rich and sweet, having no less than 3 6-10 per cent, of saccharine matter. When making its first growth in the spring, it is green, then dries on its stem and remains the rest of the year like cured hay on the open ground, retaining all its sweetness. Without a single exception, horses, mules and stock of all descriptions, will forsake all other kinds of grass until all the buffalo grass within reach has been consumed. W^hile the buffaloes roamed over this country it was their natural food, but with their disappearance and the coming of the white man, it is disappearing to give place to others. Leaving North Platte, the next station is
Nichols,— 2mA miles from Omaha, and 2,882 feet above the sea. It is simply a side track with section-house near, in the midst of the level bottom lands between the two rivers, both of which are in sight. Before reaching North Platte it will be observed that the bottom narrows, and that the bluffs or sand-hills in some instances approach the river's bank. But after leaving the town, for nearly twenty miles west, the level prairie between the rivers spreads out in view, with bluffs on either side beyond. Between North Platte and this station there are a few set- tlers, but the territory is mostly occupied as the winter range of Keith & Barton's herd of cattle,
as they are easily confined between the rivers with little help.
<y Fallon- s — is the next station. It is 307.9 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 2,976 feet. It is a telegraph station. O'Fallon's Bluffs are plainly visible south of the South Platte River, which they closely approach ; at this point we lose sight of the Valley of the North Platte — a ridge of low hills jutting down from the west, while the railroad follows the south river. The railroad reached this place late in the fall of 1866, but North Platte was the terminal station until Julesburg was reached in 1867. If there was any timber on the streams in this vicinity, it has long since disappeared. On an island in the South Platte the Indians used to camp, and from their hiding places in the sand- hills and bluff's, frequently attacked emigrants and trains, but as before remarked, with the buf- faloes, the Indians disappear. ■
Dexter — is simply a side track where trains occasionally meet and pass. It is 31 5.2 miles from Omaha, and has an elevation of 3,000 feet. The bluffs here come very near the river, and they are utilized in the building of a corral — the rocky ledge answering all the purposes of a fence. The monotony of the scenery up to this point now passes away, and the traveler will always find something in the ever-varying views of rocks, bluff's, streams and plains that will interest him in the journey.
Alkali. — A telegraph station, 322.4 miles from the Missouri River, and 3,038 feet above the sea. The alkali spots which have been witnessed in the soil since we left Omaha, are now more fre- quent, and the station naturally takes its name from these characteristics. This station has a small depot, side track and section-house ; is in the midst of a fine grazing country, and opposite an old stage station south of the river.
lioscoe. — Simply a side track, 332.0 miles from Omaha, with an elevation of 3,105 feet. Just before reaching this place, and in this vicin- ity, the railroad passes through more sandy bluffs that approach the river.
Off alalia — is the next station, 341.6 miles from Omaha. Elevation 3.190 feet. It is the countT-^eat of Keith County, Nebraska, and is destined to be the Texas town on the line of the Union Pacific. The regular trail for driving cattle from Texas may be said to terminate here. It has a depot, water tank, side tracks, cattle chutes, store, one or two boarding-houses, saloon, etc. It is the head-quarters and outfitting place of a large number of ranchmen, who have herds of cattle in this vicinity. It is some twelve miles from the North Platte River, where a nnm- ber of herds find ample range. In 1875, it is claimed that nearly 60,000 head of Texas cattle were driven to this point, and afterwards dis- tributed to various parties to whom they were sold. A larsre number of them were taken to the
TSE PACIFIC FOifSiSr.
47
Indian agencies at Red Cloud and Spotted Tail. There will be numerous buildings erected soon to accoininodate the growing necessities of the town. Leaving Ogalalla we next come to
JiriUe, — so called from the lirule Sioux, a band of which Si)otted Tail is the chief, lied Cloud is chief of the Ugaialla Siou.\. This is probably the most [X)werful tribe of Indians now existin;f in the country, and when all united they are said to be able to raise at least 1U,000 war- riors. Those of them who have been taken east to Washington and other eastern cities, seem to have lost their belligerent feelings toward the whites, and will not probably go to war with them unless misled by tricksters or influiMiced by some other powerful motive. The young " bucks" who have remained on their reservations, how- ever, think they can whip the whole country in a very sliort time if they should once get at it. This station was a favorite crossing place with this band of Sioux during the years when they used to hunt on tiie rivers south, or go on their scaijiing and horse-stealing expeditions. Brule is 3jI.'J miles from Omaha, and has an eleva- tion of 3,"JtJ(j feet. North of this place, on the North Platte, is Ash Hollow, a celebrated camping ground for Indians and the scene of a great victory over them by General Harney, in 18')9. The whole tribe of Sioux probably have a greater admiration for General Harney, to-day, than for any other living American. Physical force is the only power which they can be made to respect and fear. Next comes
Bi{/ Spring, — which is 3G0.9 miles from the eastern end of the road, with an elevation of 3,;Ji.3 feet. It is so named from large springs w^hich break to the surface of the ground at the foot of the bluffs, on the right-hand side of the road going west, and in plain sight of the cars. The water tank, at this station, is sujijtlied from the.se springs. The water is excellent, and the station is quite a camping place for those who continue to journey overland. This is a tele- graph station.
Barton, — called after Hon. Guy C. Barton of North Platte. It is ;3(J6.7 miles from Uiuaha, and 3,421 feet above the sea — sim)>ly a side track where trains meet and pa.ss. Beyond this sta- tion, a short distance, the old town of Julesburg can be seen across the river. Late in 1875, a stray herd of about six hundred buffaloes quietly passed over the old town site to and from the river, where they went for water. It will proba- bly be their last visitation to this part of the country.
Julesburg, — 377.4 miles from Omaha, and 3,500 feet above the sea. It wa.s named aft'T Jules Burg — a frontier character who wa.s killed by one Jack Sla<l>^, another rough, in the old overland stage times. The old iown was across the river, some four miles below the present sta- tion, and was a pretty rough place. The station
is opposite old Fort Sedgwick, now abandoned, and was the projxjsed junction of a brunch )ail- roail up the buulh Platte Uiver by way of Gree- ley to Ixjugmont, from which a laihoad is ccm- pleted to Denver. 1 his branch is graded nearly the entire distance, and bridged pait of tlie way. By an agreement made m 1675, the Union Pa- cihc, or men in the company, relinquished the proposed and completed roads in Colorado to the Kansas Pacific, and the latter load relin- quished its through business to the Pacific coast, and its efforts to comj^el the Union Pacific to pro rate with it from Cheyenne west, 'i'his ar- rangement effected the entire susr>ension of all efforts to complete this branch, and Julesburg is now, as formerly, a way-station on the Union Pacific. It is, however, quite a place for f-liip- ]»ing stock, has one or two stores, f^f.me adobe houses and stables, with cattle-yards and chutes. The comjiletion of this branch ro