WESTERN SCENES AND ADVENTURES.
THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
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PHILADELPHIA: H. C. BAIRD.
1854.,
THE KEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
^TOF., LENOX ^H»
SCENES y .
A
IN THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS,
AND IN
OREGON, CALIFORNIA, NEW MEXICO, TEXAS, AND THE GRAND PRAIRIES;
OR,
NOTES BY THE WAY,
DURING AN EXCURSION OF THREE YEARS,
WITH A
DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRIES PASSED THROUGH.
INCLUDING THEIR
GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, RESOURCES, PRESENT CONDITION, AND THE DIFFERENT NATIONS INHABITING THEM.
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PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIRD,
(successor to E. L. CAREY,) No, 7 HART'S BUILDINGS, SIXTH STREET, ABOVE CHESTNUT.
1854.
fTHH NH'.V YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
TILOfeN eOUNOATIONS.
Entered, according Act of Congress, in the Year of our Lord 1846.
BY RUFUS B. SAGE,
in the Clerk's Office of the United States District Court for the Southern District
of the State of ISew-Yoriv.
I c c
Piinted by T. K. & P. G. Collina
Cheeked May 19^3
PREFACE.
The growing interest entertained by the American public in reference to the subjects mainly treated upon in the volume now before the reader, is deemed a sufficient apology for its appearance. The late act of our National Legislature in the annexation of Texas, bringing with it, as it does, a very considerable portion of the Province of Santa Fe, together with the existing hostilities between our own and the Republic of Mexico, preparing the way for a no distant acquisition of the Californias, not to mention the recent agita- tion of the American claim to the whole of Oregon, as yet scarcely subsided, has directed the attention of most minds more than usually towards the affairs and condition of the Great West — particularly that section of it contigu- ous to the Rocky Mountains. But, although our newspapers teem with professed descriptions of those countries embraced within its limits, and are redundant with animadversions upon their admitted importance — while the ambitious politician prates of them learnedly, and quotes by the day from fugitive paragraphs of doubful verity, gleaned here and there as chance may favor him — a palpable ignorance is evinced throughout in re- gard to a vast store of interesting particulars.
To fill up in some measure this wide vacuum of general information, is the author's object in his present undertaking. With this view he has en- deavored to present a full and comprehensive picture of the real condition of regions so attractive as are the above, and in so doing he is conscious of having erred in no important particular. Whatever is affirmed, may be relied upon as matter of facj; , 'wliile detaib of-,a. q+iistionable nature may be inferred from the guardecJ Jtwiguage in., whieh.. th4y are expressed. So far as his personal knowledge Is (onf^rn^^d, he-}/?s spoken without reserve ; but information based upon set ond-liand' authority, is given as such.
The catalogue of facts relative to \he manner in which the fur trade is conducted, and the enormities cnrvrj^eable upoiv the individuals engaged in it, may be objected to as unnecessarily minute ; but, regarded, as it should be, as one of the explanatory causes of Indian degradation, it will hardly fail to secure a ready acquiescence from the reader. Justice to the " red man " demands only a rehearsal of the simple truth, that condemnation may be awarded to the doubly guilty.
1*
ii. PREFACE.
The narrative of the Texan expedition sent against New Mexico in the spring of 1843, with its mishaps, and conflicts with the Mexicans and In- dians, added to a statement of its surrender to the U. S. Dragoons, and the causes which led to its final dispersion, will doubtless claim attention, as being the only account of it hitherto published.
In his notes of travel it has been the author's endeavor to avoid prolixity ; and, while his acting motto has been to say as much as possible in a few words, he has not withheld full descriptions of the various scenes and coun- tries that met his view during his lengthy excursion. He is well aware that his style is partially deficient in the ease and gracefulness peculiar to Fome writers ; but here he would offer no apology — it is his own, and for it he neither asks the favor of critics nor expects their lenity.
Fully persuaded that a work of this kind will prove acceptable at the present time, the author would fain believe the public in general are more regardful of its intrinsic merits than of the garb in which it appears, and with these observations he is content to abide the result.
New-York, July, 1846.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Di^ession. Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians. 13
CHAPTER II.
Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Tilings as they appeared. Simpli- city of mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Cliaracter, habits, and costume of mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The command- ant. En route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish compa- ny. Grouse. Elm Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle. 16
CHAPTER III.
The Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs. The Caw cliief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for wMskey. Hick- ory timber. Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party. Mountaineers in California. Adventure with a buffalo. In- dian atrocities. Liquor and the Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices. 23
CHAPTER IV.
Country from the frontiers to Big Blue ; its geological character, &c. Novel cure for fever and ague. Indian trails. Game. Large rabbits. Antelope, and their peculiarities. Beaver cuttings. Big Blue and its vicinity. Dangerous country. Pawnee bravery. Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) Platte river. Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of of their phenomenon. Soraetliing to laugh at. " Big Jim " and the ante- lope. 30
CHAPTER V.
Deserted camp. Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter. Buffiilo and other particu- lars. Big Jim lying guard. Butchering. Strange selections. Extraordi- nary eating, and excellence cf buffalo meat. Brady's Island. The mur- derer's fate. Substitute for wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them. Cross S. Fork of Platte. Big Jim's fourth adventure. 39
iV. , CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.
Ash creek. Pawnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Nest. Mad wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. Mad bull. Making and curing meat. Big Jim still unfortunate. Johnson's creek. McFarlan's Castle. Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort. Brave Bear. Bull TaU. Talk with the Indians. Speech of Marto-cog- ershne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana's address. 49
CHAPTER VII.
The Chimney. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's Bluff. Roman- tic scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. Mountain sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. Horse creek and gold. Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remarks by the way. Prairie travel. liocality and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Migratory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort. Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral. Speech of Etespa- huska on the death of his father. 60
CHAPTER VIII.
Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Inci- dent illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills. Rawliide. An Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L'eau-qui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river ; its val- ley, fruits, and game. BuUding site. The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. " That Old Serpent." Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon general morality. 71
CHAPTER IX.
Dangers connected with the liquor trade. Difliculty wdth Bull Eagle. Scenes of bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes tutored in vice. A cliief 's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic. Di- vorce. Pluraility of wives. 82
CHAPTER X.
Tahtunga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange story. The Death Song, a tale of love. Medicine-men. Extraordinary perform- ance of Tahtunga-mobellu. Wonderful feats of jugglery. 89
CHAPTER XI.
Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat. Re- turn to Fort. Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medi- cine-making. A Burial. Little Lodge and the French trader. A speech
CONTENTS. ▼.
in council. Journey to White river. High winds and snow. Intense suf- ferings and painful results. 97
CHAPTER XII.
Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up. Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. Boat building. Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. Narrow escape. Snow storm. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte into the prairies. A valley. Bitter Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Root- digging. Cherry tea and its uses. Geology of the country. Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere. Horse-shoe creek. A panther. Prairie dogs and their peculiarities. 103
CHAPTER XIII.
The Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Canon. Romantic pros- pect. Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Ge- ological remarks. Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Bonte's
" creek. Remarks by the way. Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder. Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the mountains. The grizzly bear, his natme and habits. 110
CHAPTER XIV.
Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering. Close contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Caiion camp. Sage trees. Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock ; why so called, and description of it. Devil's Gate. Landscape scenery. 117
CHAPTER XV.
Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass. Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medicine Bow. Dangerous covmtry. A fight with the Sioux. The " Carcague." A smrprise. Visit to the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Selling a prisoner for tobacco. Description of Laramie Plains. 123
CHAPTER XVI.
Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chugwater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the Fort. Amusements. Gambling among squaws, and games played. Squaw dresses, and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the in- tercourse of the ancient Romans with the people of this continent. 132
CHAPTER XVn.
Singular exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the States. Scarcity of provisions and consequent hardship and suffering. Extraordinary daring of
vi. CONTENTS.
wolves. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. A fish story, and another to match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. Extreme exposure. Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re-supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A picture of Platte navigation. Coimtry north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian benevolence. Surmnary of hard- slups and deprivations. Abandon voyage. 139
CHAPTER XVni.
Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations. Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar BlufT Plover creek. Cache Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring com- pany. A horrible situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exem- plary benevolence of an Indian chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days' starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff. Proceed to Independence. 147
CHAPTER XIX.
The country Detween the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Bea- ver creek. Bijou. Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Chyennes ; their character and history. Arrive at Fort Lan- caster. Different localities in its neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins. 154
CHAPTER XX.
Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelUng in a dangerous coun- trjr Mexican traders. Surmnary way of teaching manners. Fort Lancas- ter and surrounding country. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connect- ing observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. Camp of free traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations relative to the Divide. Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone trav- ellers. Arrive at the Arkansas. General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scenery. Extraordinary wall of sandstone. 162
CHAPTER XXL
Vicinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its val- leys and scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country travelled over. Taos ; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranches and Ran- cheros. Mexican houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of their character, and some of the causes contributing to their pre- sent degradation. The Pueblo Indians and their strange notions. Ancient temple. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the Uintah river, and obser- vations by the way. Taos Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and Lake Utahs. Tlie
CONTENTS. VU.
Diggers ; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, with a sketch of their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, braveiy, &c., with a sketch of their country, and why they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. 171
CHAPTER XXII.
Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description of Upper California. The Eastern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country. Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Fertility of soil. Prevailing rock and minerals. Abundance of wUd fruit, grain, and game. Valley of the Colorado. Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila. Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet spots. Mildness of climate, and its healthiness. The natives. Sparsity of inhabitants. No government. All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells. Practicable routes from the United States. 182
CHAPTER XXIII.
3Iinerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bays and Harbors. Description of the country ; territory northwest of the Sacramento ; Tlamath Mountains ; California range and its vicinity ; southern parts ; timber, river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare ; their extent, fertility, timber, and fruit ; wild grain and clover, spontaneous; wonderful fecundity of soil, and its products ; the productions, climate, rains, and dews ; geological and mineralogical character ; face of the country; its water; its healtldness ; game; superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c. ; beasts of prey; the inhabitants, w^ho; Indians, their character and condition ; Capital of the Province, with other towns ; advantages of San Francisco ; inland settlements ; foreigners and Mexicans ; Government ; its full military strength. Remarks. 189
CHAPTER XXIV.
Visitors at Uintah. Adventures of a trapping party. The Munchies, or white Indians ; some account of tliem. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and attempts at its exploration, — speculation relative to its inhabitants. Leave for Fort Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green valleys, &c. Country en route. Brown's-hole. Geological observations. Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs ; their peculi- arities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river ; its fertility, timber, and abun- dance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages of this section. Minei'al tar. 193
CHAPTER XXV.
Fort Hall ; its history, and locality. Information relative to Oregon. Bound-
Viii. CONTENTS.
aries and extent of the territory. Its rivers and lakes, with a concise descrip- tion of them severally. Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. Harbors and islands. Oregon as a whole ; its mountains and geographical divisions. Eastern Divison ; its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber ; volcanic ravages ; country between Clarke's river and the Columbia. North of the Columbia; its general character. Middle Division ; its valleys, prai- ries, highlands, and forests. Western Division ; a beautiful country ; ex- tensive valleys of extraordinary fertility ; productive plains ; abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief smnmary of facts. 206
CHAPTER XXVI.
Climate of Oregon ; its variableness ; its rains ; a southern climate in a north- ern latitude. Productiveness ; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and culti- vated. Geological characteristics. Soils and prevailing rock. Minerals, &c. Variety of game. Wolves. Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements. Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements. Oregon City, its situa- tion and advantages ; about Linnton ; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river ; Vancouvre, and its superior advantages. lOnd- ness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. 217
CHAPTER XVII.
The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advan- tages reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in the early history of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in their character. Mild weather. Leave for the Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country. New Park. Head of Grand river. The landscape. Difierent routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park. 225
CHAPTER XXVIII.
From Grand river to Bayou Salade. Observations by the way. Description of the Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remark- able sagacity of wolves. Snow storms and amusement. Ravenn. Move camp. Comfortable winter quarters. Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. A laughable instance of sound sleepmg. Astonish- ' ing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all about beaver. Hunting excur-^ sion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger. A nocturnal visitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen of "gettin down stairs." Geological statistics. 233
CONTENTS. IX.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Return to the Fort, Texan recruiting officer. New plans. Volunteer. The Chance Shot, or Special Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguous to the Arkansas, from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Rio de las Animas. Things at rendezvous. A glance at the company. Disposal of force. March up the de las Animas. The country ; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas. The latter stream ; its canon, valley and enchanting scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled suffering from hunger, toil, and cold. Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. Painful consequences of eating cacti. A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation. Camp at the Taos trail. The adjacent country. Strict guard. A chase. The meet reward for treason. 244
CHAPTER XXX.
March down the Cimarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between the de las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Caiion of the Cimarone. Soil and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. Beauty of rocks, Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Wide- spread desolation. A dreary country. Summer on the Desert. Remarks. Encounter with Indians. Nature's nobleman. Wild horses and difTereiit modes of catching them. Failure of expected reinforcements. March into the enemy's country. Ancient engravings upon a rock. Boy in the wolf's den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of thirst. Remarks. The lost found. Expulsion for cowardice, — its effect. 253
CHAPTER XXXI.
Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Coun- try between the Rio de las Animas and Mora ; its picturesque beauty. Ad- mirable point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass ; order of attack, passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of killed, wounded and prisoners. Council of war.* Prisoners released. Message to Amijo. Return march. Mexican army. Attacked, and results of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat. Cross the Table Mountain. Nev/ species of wild onions. March down the de las Animas. Discouragements accumulate. Disband. Sketch cf factions. Texan prisoners. Arrival of reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo : killed, wounded, and prisoners. Retreat of Amijo. " Stampede." Frightful encounter with the Cumanches and Kuyawas. Discharge of troops. AfTair with Capt. Cook. Surrender to U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey to the Platte. Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feasting at camp. Crows' eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An Indian fort. Serio-comico adventure with a wolf. Indians. Song of the night-bird. 262
2
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Lost. Night on the Prairie. Head of the Kansas river. Minerals. Country. Gold. Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. Indians. Join the Arapahos. Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. Canon. Reach Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. Murder. Extraordinary instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of Indians. Theft. Chyenne outrage. Return of Oregon emigrants. " Old Bob," and his adventures. A " Protracted Meeting," or Indian Medicine- making. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains. Mountain scenery. Camp on Thompson's creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of valleys. Romantic view. A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes. Aston- ishing scope of vision. The black-tailed deer. Peculiarity in horses. Re- markable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess. 273
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Newspapers. False reports. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster. An excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. Slaughter of eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter's camp. Vasques' creek. The weather. Return of comrades to Fort. Sweets of solitude. Expo- sure in a snow-storm. The canon of S. Fork Platte. A ridge. A val- ley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement. Flowers in February. A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers. Adventure with a sheep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at Crystal creek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. The caravan. " Big Timber." Country to the " Crossing." Big Salt Bottom. Flowers. A stranger of other lands. Difficulty with Indians. " Friday." Tedious travelling. No timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fork. Mountain and Spanish companies. Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chief. Pawnee Fork. — Cure for a rattlesnake's bite. Further detention. Sketch of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route with Friday. Musquetoes. Observations. Friday as a hunter. 287
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indians in reference to a future state of rewards and punishments. The " water bull." Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locatity for settlement. Sudden rise of water. Separate routes. Dangerous travel- ling. Osage village. Osages, and all about them. Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas. Concluding remarks. 297
SCENES
IN
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC
CHAPTER I.
Objects of a proposed excursion. — Primary plans and movements. — A digression — Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. — Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. — Frontier Indians.
My purpose in visiting the Rocky Mountains, and countries adjacent, having hitherto proved a fruitful source of inquiry to the many persons I meet, when aware of my having devoted three years to travel in those remote regions, and I am so pUed with almost numberless other questions, I know of no better way to dispose of them satisfactorily, than by doing what I had thought of at the outset, to wit : writing a book.
But, says one, more books have been already written upon subjects of a kindred nature, than will ever find readers. True, indeed ; yet I must venture one m.ore ; and this much I promise at the start : it shall be different, in most respects, from all that have preceded it ; and if I fail to produce an agreeable variety of adventures, interwoven with a large fund of valuable information, then I shall not have accomplished my purpose.
Yet, ' why did I go ? — what was my object ?' Let me explain : Dame Nature bestowed upon me lavishly that innate curiosity, and fondness for things strange and new, of which every one is more or less possessed. Phrenologists would declare my organ of Inquisitiveness to be largely developed ; and, certain it is, 1 have a great liking to tread upon unfre^ quented ground, and mingle among scenes at once novel and romantic. Love of adventure, then, was the great prompter, while an enfeebled state of health sensibly admonished me to seek in other parts that invigorating air and climate denied by the diseased atmosphere of a populous country. I also wished to acquaint myself with the geography of those comparatively unexplored regions, — their geological character, curiosities, resources, and natural advantages, together with their real condition, present inhabitants, inducements \g emigrants, and most favorable localities for settlements, to enable me to speak trom personal knowledge upon subjects so interesting to the public snind, at the present time, as are the above. Here, then, were
U RENDEZVOUS OF OREGON Ex^IIGRANTS.
objects every way worthy of attention, and vested with an importance that would render my excursion not a mere idle jaunt for the gratification of selfish curiosity. This much by way of prelude, — now to the task in hand.
While yet undecided as to the most advisable mode of prosecuting my intended enterprise, on learning that a party of adventurers were rendez- voused at Westport, Mo., preparatory to their long and arduous journey to the new-formed settlements of the Columbia river, I hastened to that place, where I arrived in the month of May, 1841, with the design of becoming one of their number. In this, however, I was doomed to disappointment by being too late. A few weeks subsequent marked the return of several fur companies, from their annual excursions to the Indian tribes inhabiting the regions adjacent to the head-waters of the Platte and Arkansas rivers, whose outward trips are performed in the fall months. Impatient at delay and despairing of a more eligible opportunity, for at least some time to come, I made prompt arrangements with one of tiiem, to accompany it, en route, as far as the Rocky Mountains, intending to proceed thereafter as circum- stances or inclination might suggest. This plan of travelling was adhered to, notwithstanding the detention of some three months, which retarded its prosecution.
I would here beg indulgence of the reader to a seeming digression. The peculiar locality of the places to whose vicinity he is now introduced, owing to the deep interest cherished in the public mind relative to the Oregon coun- try, will doubtless call for more than a mere passing notice : I allude to the towns of Independence and Westport. Situated as they are, at the utmost verge of civilization, and upon the direct route to Oregon and regions adja- cent, they must retain and command, as the great starting points for emigrants and traders, that importance already assumed by general consent. Their facilities of access from all parts of the Union, both by land and water, are nowhere exceeded. The proud Missouri rolls its turbid waves within six miles of either place, opening the highway of steam communication, while numberless prime roads that converge from every direction, point to them as their common focus. Thus, the staid New Englander may exchange his na- tive hills for the frontier prairies in the short interval of two weeks ; and in half that time the citizen of the sunny South may reach the appointed ren- dezvous ; and, nearer by, the hardy emigrant may commence his long over- land journey, from his own door, lully supplied with all the necessaries for its successful termination.
Independence is the seat of justice for Jackson county. Mo., about four hundred miles west by north of St. Louis, and contains a population of nearly two thousand. Westport is a small town in the same county, near the mouth of the Kansas river, — three miles from the Indian territory, and thirty below the U. S. Dragoon station at Fort Leavenworth. The regular routes to Santa Fe and Oregon date their commencement at these places. The country in this vicinity is beginning to be generally settled by thrifty farmers, from whom all the articles necessary for travellers and traders, may be procured upon reasonable terms.
Starting from either of the above points, a short ride bears the adventurer across the state line, and affords him the opportunity of taking his ini- tiatory les&ons amid the realities of prairie life. Here, most of the trading and emigrant companies remain encamped for several weeks, to recruit
BORDER-PRAIRIES AND INDIANS. 16
• xyN^S/\^V^^/ "^
their animals and complete the needful arrangements, prior to undertaking the toilsome and dangerous journey before them.
The scenery of this neighborhood is truly delightful. It seems indeed like one Nature's favored spots, where Flora presides in all her regal splendor, and with the fragrance of wild flowers, perfumes the breath of spring and lades the summer breeze with willing incense ; — now, sport- ing beside her fountains and revelling in her dales, — then, smiling from her hill-tops, or luxurating beneath her groves.
I shall never forget the pleasing sensations produced by my first visit to the border-prairies. It was in the month of June, soon alter my arrival at Westport. The day was clear and beautiful. A gentle shower the pre- ceding night had purified the atmosphere, and the laughing flowerets, newly invigorated from the nectarine draught, seemed to vie with each other in the exhalation of their sweetest odors. The blushing strawberry, scarce yet divested of its rich burden of fruit, kissed my every step. The butter- cup, tulip, pink, violet, and daisy, with a variety of other beauties, unknown to the choicest collections of civilized life, on every side captivated the eye and delighted the fancy.
The ground was clothed with luxuriant herbage. The grass, where left uncropped by grazing herds of cattle and horses, had attained a sur- prising growth. The landscape brought within the scope of vision a most magnificent prospect. The groves, clad in their gayest foliage and nodding to the wind, ever and anon, crowned the gentle acclivities or reared their heads from the valleys, as if planted by the hand of art to point the way- farer to Elysian retreats. The gushing fountains, softly breathing their untaught melody, before and on either hand, at short intervals, greeted the ear and tempted the taste. The lark, linnet, and martin, uniting with other feathered songsters, poured forth heir sweetest strains in one grand con- cert, and made the air vocal with their warblings ; and the brown-plumed grouse, witless of the approach of man, till dangerously near, would here and there emerge wellnigh from under foot; and whiz through the air with almost lightning speed, leaving me half frightened at her unlooked for presence and sudden exit. Hither and yon, truant bands of horses and cattle, from the less inviting pastures of the settlements, were seen in the distance, cropping the choice herbage before them, or gambolling in all the pride of native freedom.
Amid such scenes I delight to wander, and often, at this late day, will my thoughts return, unbidden, to converse with them anew. There is a charm in the loneliness — an enchantment in the solitude — a witching variety in the sameness, that must ever impress the traveller, when, for the first time, he enters within the confines of the great western prairies.
One thing further and I will have done with this digression. Connected with the foregoing, it may not be deemed amiss to say something in relation to the Indian tribes inhabiting the territory adjacent to tiiis common camp- ing-place. The nearest native settlement is some twelve miles distant, and belongs to the Shawnees. This nation numbers in all fourteen or fifteen hundred men, women and children. Their immediate neio-hbors are the Delawares and Wyandotts, — the former claiming a population of eleven hundred, and the latter, three or four hundred. Many connected with these tribes outstrip the nearer whites, in point of civilization and refine-^'
2*
16 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING.
ment, — excelling them both in honesty and morality, and all that elevates and ennobles the human character. Their wild habits have become in a great measure subdued by the restraining influences of Christianity, and they themselves transformed into industrious cultivators of the soil, — occu- pying neat mansions with smiling fields around them.
Nor are they altogether neglectful of the means of education. The mission schools are generally well attended by ready pupils, in no respect less backward than the more favored ones of other lands. It is not rare even, considering the smallness of their number, to meet among them with persons of liberal education and accomplishments. Their mode of dress assimilates that of the whites, though, as yet, fashion has made compara- tively but small inroads. The unsophisticated eye would find prolific source for amusement in the uncouth appearance of their females on public occa- sions. Perchance a gay Indian maiden comes flaunting past, with a huge fur-hat awkwardly placed upon her head, — embanded by broad strips of figured tin, instead of ribbons, — and ears distended with large flattened rings of silver, reaching to her shoulders ; and here another, solely habited in a long woUen under-dress, obtrudes to view, and skips along in all the pride and pomposity of a regular ci^ belle ! Such are sights by no means uncommon.
These tribes have a regular civil government of their own, and all laws instituted for the general welfare are duly respected. They are, also, be- coming more temperate in their habits, fully convinced that ardent spirits have hitherto proved the greatest enemy to the red man. The churches of various christain denominations, established among them, are in a flour- ishing condition, and include with their members many whose lives of examplary piety adorn their professions.
Taken as a whole, the several Indian tribes, occupying this beautiful and fertile section of country, are living witnesses to the softening and be- nign influences of enlightened christian eflbrt, and furnish indubitable evidence of the susceptibility of the Aborigine for civilization and im- provement.
CHAPTER II.
Preparations for leaving.— Scenes at Camp.— Things as they appeared.— Simplic- ity of mountaineers. — Sleep in the open air. — Character, habits, and costume of mountaineers. — Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. — The commandant. — En
route.— Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company.— Grouse.
Elm Grove. — A storm. — Santa Fe traders. — Indian battle.
After many vexatious delays and disappointments, the time was at length fixed for our departure, and leaving Independance on the 2d of September, I proceeded to join the encampment without the state line. It was nearly 7iight before I reached my destination, and the camp-fires were already
SCENES AT CAMP. 17
lighted, in front of wliicli the officiating cook was busily engaged in prepar- ing the evening repast. To the windward were the dusky forms of ten or fifteen men, — some standing, others sitting a la Turk, and others half- reclining or quietly extended at full length upon the ground, — watching the operative of the culinary department with great seeming interest.
Enchairing myself upon a small log, I began to survey the surrounding objects. In the back ground stood four large Connestoga waggons, with ample canvass tops, and one dearborn, all tastefully drawn up in crescent form. To the right a small pyramid-shaped tent, with its snow-white covering, disclosed itself to the eye, and presented an air of comfort. To the left the caravan animals, securely picketed, at regular distances of some fifteen yards apart, occupied an area of several acres. Close at hand a crystal streamlet traced its course, murmuring adown the valley ; and still beyond, a lovely grove waved its branches in the breeze, and contributed its willing mite to enliven and beautify the scene. The camp-fires in front, formed a kind of gateway to a small enclosure, shut in as above described. Here were congregated the company, or at least, that portion of it yet arrived. Some had already spread their easily adjusted couches upon the ground, in readiness for the coming night, and seemed only await- ing supper to forget their cares and troubles in the sweet embrace of sleep. Every thing presented such an air of primitive simplicity not altogether estranged to comfort, I began to think it nowise marvellous that this mode of life should afford such strong attractions to those inured to it.
Supper disposed of, the area within camp soon became tenanted by the devotees of slumber, — some snoring away most melodiously, and others conversing in an animated tone, now jovial, now grave, and at intervals, causing the night-air to resound with merry peals of laughter. At length the sleep-god began to assert his wonted supremacy, and silence in some measure reigned throughout camp.
The bed of a mountaineer is an article neither complex in its nature nor difficult in its adjustment. A single buffalo robe folded double and spread upon the ground, with a rock, or knoll, or some like substitute for a pillow, furnishes the sole base-work upon which the sleeper reclines, and, envel- oped in an additional blanket or robe, contentedly enjoys his rest. Wishing to initiate myself to the new mode of life before me, I was not slow to imi- tate the example of the promiscuous throng, and the lapse of a few moments found me in a fair way to pass quite pleasantly my first night's repose in the open air.
With the first gray of morning-I arose refreshed and invigorated, nor even suffered tlie slightest ill effect from my unusual exposure to a humid and unwholesome night-air. The whole camp, soon after, began to disclose a scene of cheerfulness and animation. The cattle and horses, unloosed from their fastenings, and accompanied by keepers, were again permitted to roam at large, and in a short time were most industriously engaged in administering to the calls of appetite.
Afiter breakfast I improved the opportunity to look about and scan more closely the appearance of my coinpagnons de voyage. This opened to view a new field for the study of men and manners.
A mountain company generally comprises some quaint specimens of human nature, and, perhaps, few more so than the one to which I here
18 CHARACTER AND COSTrr.IE OF MOUNTAINEERS.
introduce the reader. To particularize would exceed my limit?!, nor could I do full justice to the subject in hand by dealing in generalities ; — how- ever, I yield to the latter. There are many crude originals mixed with the prime ingredients of these companies. A genuine mountaineer is a problem hard to solve. He seems a kind of sui genus, an oddity, both in dress, language, and appearance, from the rest of mankind. Associated with nature in her most simple forms by habit and manner of life, he gradually learns to despise the restraints of civilization, and assimilates himself to the rude and unpolished character of the scenes with which he is most conversant. Frank and open in his manners and generous in his disposition, he is, at the same time, cautious and reserved. In his frankness he will allow no one to acquire an undue advantage of him, though in his generosity, he will oftentimes expend the last cent to assist a fellow in need. Implacable in his hatred, he is also steadfast in his friendship, and knows no sacrifice too great for the benefit of those he esteems. Free as the pure air he breathes, and proudly conscious of his own independence, he will neither tyrannize over others, nor submit to be trampled upon, — and is always prepared to meet the perils he may chance to encounter, with an undaunted front. Inured to hardship and deprivation, his wants are few, and he is the last to repine at the misfortunes which so often befall him. Patience becomes as it were interwoven with his very nature, and he sub- mits to the greatest disasters without a murmur. His powers of endurance, from frequent exercise, attain a strength and capacity almost incredible, — such as are altogether unknown to the more delicately nurtured. His is a trade, to become master of which requires a long and faithful apprentice- ship. Of this none seems more conscious than himself, and woe to the ^^ greenhorn" who too prematurely assumes to be "journeyman." His ideas, his arguments, his illustrations, all partake of the unpolished sim- plicity of his associations ; though abounding often in the most vivid imagery, pointed inferences, and luminous expositions, they need a key to make them intelligible to the novice.
His dress and appearance are equally singular. His skin, from constant exposure, assumes a hue almost as dark as that of the Aborigine, and his features and physical structure attain a rough and hardy cast. His hair, through inattention, becomes long, coarse, and bushy, and loosely dangles upon his shoulders. His head is surmounted by a low crowned wool-hat, or a rude substitute of his own manufacture. His clothes are of buckskin, gaily fringed at the seams With strings of the same material, cut and made in a fashion peculiar to himself and asso- ciates. The deer and bufTalo furnish hiin the required covering for his feet, which he fabricates at the impulse of want. His waist is encircled with a belt of leather, holding encased his butcher-knife and pistols — w^iile from his neck is suspended a bullet-pouch securely fastened to the belt in front, and beneath the right arm hangs a powder-horn transversely from his shoulder, behind which, upon the strap attached to it, are affixed his bullet- mould, ball-screw, wij)er, awl, &c. With a gun-stick made of some hard wood, and a good rifle placed in his hands, carrying from thirty to thirty-five balls to the pound, the reader will have before him a correct like- ness of a genuine mountaineer, when fully equipped.
This costume nrevails not only in the inountain^^ proper, but also in the
THE COMMANDANT. 19
less settled portions of Oregon and California. The mountaineer is his own manufacturer, tailor, shoemaker, and butcher; and, fully accoutred and sup- plied with ammunition in a good game country, he can always feed and clothe himself, and enjoy all the comforts his situation affords. No wonder, then, his proud spirit, expanding with the intuitive knowledge of noble inde- pendence, becomes devotedly attached to those regions and habits that per- mit him to stalk forth, a sovereign amid nature's lovliest works.
Our company, however, were not all mountaineers ; some were only " entered apprentices," and others mere ■' greenhorns " — taking every thing into consideration, perhaps, it was quite as agreeably composed as circum- stances would well admit of. In glancing over the crowd, I remarked several countenances sinister and malign, but consented to suspend judg- ment till the character of each should be proven by his conduct. Hence, in the succeeding pages, I shall only speak of characters as I have occa- sion to speak of men. As a whole, the party before me presented a choice collection of local varieties, — here was the native of France, of Canada, of England, of Hudson Bay, of Connec icut, of Pennsylvania, of New York, of Kentucky, of Illinois, of Missouri, and of the Rocky Mountains, all congregated to act in unison for a specitied purpose. It m'ght well require the pencil of Hogarth to picture such a motley group.
Our company had not as yet attained its full numercial strength ; a smaJl division of it was some distance in advance, another behind, and at least two days would be necessary to complete the arrangenlents prior to leaving. The idea of spending two days in camp, notwithstanding the beauty of its location, was by no means agreeable ; but as the case was beyond remedy, I quietly submitted, and managed to while away the tedious interval as best I could.
A brief acquaintance with our commandant, found him a man of small stature and gentlemanly deportment, though savoring somewhat of arro- gance and self-sufficiency, — faults, by the way, not uncommon in little men. He had been engaged in the Indian trade for several years past, and had seen many " ups and downs " in former life. Graduating from West Point in his younger days, he soon after received the commission of Lieutenant of Dragoons, in the U. S. Army, and served in that capacity for some six or eight years, on the frontier and at Forts Gibson and Leaven- worth. Possessed of the confidence of his men, his subsequent resignation was the occasion of much regret with those he had been accustomed to command. The private soldier loved him for his generous frankness and readiness to overlook minor offences, even upon the first show of peni- tence.
Such unbounded popularity at length excited the jealousy of his brother officers, and gave birth to a combination against him. which nothing could appease short of his removal from the army. Aware of his ardent tem- perament and strong party notions as a politician, and equally violent upon the opposite side, they managed to inveigle him into a discussion of the measures and plans of the then administration of national affairs. Argu- ing in the excitement of feeling, lie made use of an unguarded expression, denouncing the Chief Magistrate. This was immediately noted down, and charges were promptly preferred against him, for " abuse nf a superior officer I^^ The v\hole affair was tiien referred to a Court Martial, composed
20 COMICAL APPEARANCE OF A MEXICAN COMPANY.
exclusively of political opponents. The evidence was so strong he had little to expect from their hands, and consequently threw up his commission, to avert the disgrace of being cashiered, since which he has been engaged in his present business.
He appeared to be a man of general information, and well versed in science and literature. Indeed, I felt highly gratified in making an acquain- tance so far congenial to my own taste.
An accession of two waggons and four men having completed our number, the morning of September 4th was ushered in with the din of preparations for an immediate start. The lading of the waggons was then severally overhauled and more compactly adjusted, and our arms were depos- ited with other freight until such time as circumstances should call for them. All was hurry and confusion, and ofttimes the sharp tone of angry dispute arose above the jargon of the tumultuous throng.
At length the word was given to advance, and in an instant the whole caravan was in motion ; those disconnected with the waggons, mounted upon horseback, led the van, followed by the teams and their attendants in Indian file, as the loose cattle and horses brought up the rear. The scene to me portrayed a novelty quite amusing. I began to think a more comical- looking set could scarcely be found any where ; but the events of the day soon convinced me of my mistake.
Travelling leisurely along for some six or eight miles, strange objects were seen in the distance, which, on nearer approach, proved a company of Mexican traders, on their way to Independence for an equipment of goods. As they filed past us, I had full scope for the exercise of my risibilities.
If a mountaineer and a mountain company are laughable objects, a Mexican and a Mexican company are triply so. The first thing that excites attention upon meeting one of this mongrel race, is his ludicrous apology for pantaloons. This is generally made of deer or buflTalo skin, similar to our present fashion, except the legs, which are left unsewed from the thigh downwards ; a loose pair of cotton drawers, cut and made in like manner, and worn beneath, imparts to his every movements a most grotesque appear- ance, leaving at each step of the wearer his denuded leg, with that of his pantaloons on one side, and drawers on the other, fluttering in the breeze ! The next thing that meets the gaze, is his black, slouching, broad-brimmed hat, {sombrero,) though little darker than the features it obscures, and far less so than the coarse, jet-colored hair that protrudes from beneath it, and falls confusedly upon his shoulders. Next, if the weather tolerates the habit, a coarse parti-colored blanket {charape) envelopes the body, from his shoulders downwards, fixed to its place by an aperture in the centre through which the head is thrust, and securely girted at pleasure by a waist-band of leather. His arms, if arms he has, consist of a rude bow and arrows slung to his back, or an old fusee, not unfrequently without flint, lock, or ammunition ; but doubly armed, and proudly, too, is he who can carry a good rifle with powder and lead — even if he he ignorant of their use.
Thus appearing, these creatures, some mounted upon mules, with heavy spurs attached to their heels, (bearing gafl^s an inch and a half in length, jin- gling in response to the rolhng motions of the wearer,) ensconced in bungling {Spanish saddles, (finished with such ample leather skirts as almost hid the diminutive animal that bore them, and large wooden stirrups, some tliree
WAGON TllAIN.— Ptf,s-e QO.
THE NEW YGHK
PUBLIC LI3K Ah
A-STOR, Lr,NC)C AfU
tmmmKtmm
i
-■-^sef
A STORM. 21
inches broad,) were riding at their ease ; while others, half naked, were trudging along on foot, driving their teams, or following the erratic mulea of the caravan, to heap upon them the ready maledictions of their prolific vocabulary. Passing on, we were accosted :
" Como lo pasa, cabelleros ?"
The salutation was returned by a simple nod.
" Habla la lengua Espanola, senors ?"
A shake of the head was the only response.
" Es esta el camino de Independenca ?"
No reply.
" Carraho ! Que quantos jornadas tenemos en la camino de Indepen- denca ?"
Still no one answered.
" Scha ! Maldijo tualmas ! Los Americanos esta dijabelo !"
By this time the crowd had passed and left us no longer annoyed by its presence. The conclusion irresistibly forced itself upon my mind, " if these are true specimens of Mexicans, it is no wonder they incite both the pity and contempt of the rest of the world." Subsequent intercourse with them, however, has served to convince me that first impressions, in this case, instead of exceeding the reality, fell far short of the true mark !
Continuing our course, we saw large numbers of prairie-hens, and suc- ceeded in killing several. These birds assimilate the English grouse in appearance, and are of. a dusky-brown color, — with short tails, and narrow- peaked wings, — and little less in size than the domestic fowl. Their flesh is tender and of superior flavor. When alarmed, they start with a cack- ling noise, and whiz through the air not unlike the partridge. They are very numerous on the frontier prairies, and extend to the Rocky Moun- tains, Oregon, California and New Mexico.
About sundown we reached a small creek known as Elm Grove, and encamped for the night, with every indication of an approaching storm. Strict orders were accordingly given for securing the animals, and the process of "picketing" was speedily under way. This consisted in driving small stakes ("pickets") firmly into the ground, at proper dis- tances apart, to which the animals were severally tied by strong cords, — a plan that should find nightly practice among all travellers of the grand prairies, to prevent those losses which, despite the utmost precaution, wiU not unfrequently occur.
Timber proved quite scarce in this vicinity, and it was with great difficulty we procured sufficient for cooking purposes. The men now began to prepare for the coming storm. Some disposed of themselves in, and others under, the waggons, making barricades to the windward ; others erected shantees, by means of slender sticks, planted in parallel rows five or six feet apart, and interwoven at the tops, so as to form an arch of suitable height, over which was spread a roofage of robes or blankets, — while others, snugly ensconced beneath the ready pitched tent, bade de- fiance to wind and weather.
Being one of those selecting a place under the waggons, I retired at an early hour to snooze away the night ; and despite the anticipations of an unpleasant time, I soon lost myself in a sweet slumber, utterly uncon- scious of every thing around me. In thoughts I wandered back to the
22 AN INDIAN BATTLE.
home of my childhood, to converse with friends whose names and features fond memory has chained to my heart, while imagination roamed with delight amid those scenes endeared to me by earliest and most cherished recollections. But all the sweet pencillings of fancy were at once spoiled by the uncivil intrusion of a full torrent of water, that came pouring from the hill-side and forced its impetuous way into the valley below, — deluging me from head to foot in its descent. My condition, as the reader may well suppose, was far from being enviable. However, resolved to make the best of a bad thing, after wringing the water from my drenched bed- ding, I selected another spot and again adjusted myself to pass the dreary interval till morning ; this I succeeded in doing, — how or in what man- ner, it is unnecessary to say. Sleep was utterly out of the question, and I am quite sure I never hailed the welcome morn with greater delight than on this occasion.
Others of the company fared almost as bad as myself, and there was scarcely a dry bed in camp. But the little concern evinced by the moun- taineers for their mishap, surprised me most. They crawled from their beds, reeking with wet, as good humoredly as though their nocturnal bath had in no wise disturbed their equanimity, or impaired their comfort.
The morning proved so disagreeable two of our party, who were accompa- nying us for the purpose of adventure, concluding this a kind of adventure they were unwilling to meet, wisely resolved to take the back track, and accordingly left for home. Towards night the rain ceased, and, the clouds having dispersed, we were again en route. Travelling on till late, we encamped in the open prairie, and early the next morning resumed our course. Having reached a small creek, about 10 o'clock, we halted for breakfast, Avhere another Santa Fe company came up. This proved a party of Americans, with some six or eight waggons and a large number of horses and mules, on their homeward journey. They had also in their possession an elk nearly full grown, two black-tailed deer,* an antelope and a white-tailed fawn.
Through them we received intelligence of a battle recently fought be- tween the Pawnee and Arapaho Indians, at the lower Cimarone Springs, south of the Arkansas. The former had been defeated with greai slaughter, — losing their horses and seventy-two of their bravest war- riors, to increase the trophies and enliven the scalp-dances of their ene- mies. This action occurred directly upon the Santa Fe trail, and the dead yet bestrewed the prairie, as our informants passed, half devoured by wolves, and filling the air with noisome stench as they wasted beneath the influence of a scorching sun.
An approving murmur ran through the crowd while listening to the re- cital, and all united to denounce the Pawnees as a dangerous and villan- ous set, and wished for their utter extermination.
* The black-tailed deer are larger than the common deer, and are found only in the snow-mountains. For a description of them the reader is referred to subsequent pages.
23
CHAPTER III.
The Pottowatomies.— Crossiiig the Wakarousha.— Adventure at the Springs.— Tlie Caw chief.— Kansas river and Indians.— Pleading for whiskey. — Hickory timber. — Prairie tea. — Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. — Wild honey.— Return party.— Mountaineers in California. — Adventure wilh a bufTalo.— Indian atrocilies.— Liquor and the Fur Trade. — Strict guard. — High prices.
Continuing our course, we bore to tlie r'glit, and struck the northern or Platte trail, and, after travelling eight or ten miles, made camp upon a small creek skirted with heavy timber, called Black Jack. An early start the next morning brought us to the Wakarousha, a considerable tributary of the Kansas, where a junction was formed with our advance party. The territory lying upon this stream as far south as Council Grove, (a noted place on tlie Mexican trail, 144 miles west from Independence,) belongs to the Pottowatomies. These Indians are very wealthy and are partially civihzed, — the most of them being tillers of the ground. Their dwellings are of very simple construction, — large strips of bark firmly tied to a frame-work of poles with small apertures to admit light, furnishing the ex- terior, while the interior is finished by the suspension of two or three blankets between the apartments, as partitions, and erecting a few scafiblds for bedsteads. The fire-place in warm weather is out of doors, but in the winter it occupies the centre of the building, from wliich the smoke — unaided by jamb or chimney — is left to find its way through an opening in the roof. Some, however, are beginning to improve in their style of architecture, and now and then we fiiid a tolerably spacious and comforta- ble house among them.
The Catholics have several missionaries with this tribe, and are using great exertions, if not to ameliorate their condition, at least, to proselyte them to their own peculiar faith. The missionaries of other christian denominations are also devoting themselves for their benefit, and not un- frequently with gratifying success.
The remainder of the day was occupied in crossing the creek — a task by no means easy, — its banks being so precipitous w^e were compelled to lower our waggons by means of ropes. In so doing it required the utmost caution to prevent them from oversetting or becoming broken in the ab- rupt descent.
The night following was passed upon the opposite bank. After travel- ling some twelve miles the next day, w^e encamped a short distance to the right of the trail, at a place known as the Springs. Scarcely had we halted when two footmen appeared from an opposite direction — one of them leading a horse — whom a nearer advance proved to be a white man and an Indian. The former was immediately recognized by our engages as an old acquaintance, by the name of Brow'n, who had been their recent compagnon de voyage from the mountains. His story was soon told. A few days subsequent to his arrival in the States, a difficulty had occurred
24 KANSAS INDIANS.
between him and another person, who received a severe wound from a knife by the hand of Brown during the aJEfray, when the latter was ne- cessitated to consult his own safety by a hurried flight He accordingly bade farewell both to enemies and law, and left for the Indian country — travelling most of the way by night. Two weeks afterwards he arrived in the Kansas nation, and remained with the Indian now accompanying him, to await our return.
Having listened to his story, I began to survey his strange companion. He was a village chief of the Kansas (Caw) tribe, and the first of his race I had ever seen so nearly dressed in his native costnme. In person he was tali and stout-built, — with broad shoulders and chest, brawny arms and legs, and features evincing the uncontaminated blood of the Aborigi- ne. His hair was closely shaved to the scalp, with the exception of a narrow tuft centrewise from forehead to crown, so trimmed it stood on end like the bristles of a warring hog; then his whole head and face were so lavishly bedaubed with vermilion, our experienced city belles would doubt- less have considered it an unpardonable waste of that useful material!
A string of bears '-claws, tastefully arranged, encircled his neck, while ample folds of brass wire above the wrists and elbows furnished his armil- lary, and from his ears hung rude ornaments, — some of silver, others of brass or iron — cruelly distending the flexible members that bore them. A dirty white blanket drawn closely around the shoulders enveloped the body, which, with a breech-cloth and leggins, formed his sole covering. A bow and arrows, slung to his back by a strap passing over the left shoul- der and under the rigiit arm, were his only weapons. A belt, begirting the waist, sustained his tobacco-pouch and butcher-knife, and completed his attire and armament.
Thus habited appeared before us the Caw chief, holding in one hand the lead-rope of his horse, and in the other the wing of a wild turkey, with a a long-stemmed pi pe, carved from a hard red stone, handsomely wrought and flnely polished. Taken altogether, he presented an amusing spectacle — a real curiosity.
Having shaken hands with the company and turned his horse to graze, in a few moments his pipe was subjected to its destined use, and, as the inhaled iumes merrily curved from his mouth and nostrils, he ever and anon pre- sented it for the indulgence of the bystanders. His knowledge of English was limited to the simple monosyllable " good," which he took occasion to pronoujice at intervals as he thought proper.
!Sept. 8lh. Continuing on, we encamped towards night at a small creek within six miles of the crossing of the Kansas river. Here a bevy of our chief's villagers, rigged in their rude fashion, came flocking up, apparently to gratify their curiosity in gazing at us, but really in expectation of some trifling presents, or in quest of a favorable opportunity for indulging their mate propensities for theft. However, they found little encourage- ment, as the vigilance of our guards more than equalled the cunning of our visitors. During their sta.y we were frequently solicited for donations of tobacco and ammun.tion. (as they expressed it,) in payment ibr passing through their country. Tins was individually demanded with all the assu- rance of government revenue ofhcers, or the keepers of regular toll-bridges, strongly reminding one of the petty nations upon the border2 of Canaan,
PLEADING FOll WHISKEY. 26
that required tribute of the Israelites passing- through them to possess the land of their forefathers.
Sept. 9/h. Early in the forenoon we came to the Kansas, and wore em- ployed till nearly ni(»ht in eflectino- a ford. This proved rather dilficuit, as the water was deep and the bottom sandy ; — the course, bearing directly across, till near midway of the river, follows the current for six or eight hundred yards, and then turns abruptly to the opposite shore. The Kansas, at the crossing, was not far from six hundred yards wide, with steep banks of clay and sand. The fording accomplished, we travelled some six miles, and encamped for the night. Our visitors yet honored us with their pres- ence ; some, under pretence of trading horses ; others, of bartering for tobacco, whiskey, coffee, and ammunition ; but most of them for tlie real purpose of begging and stealing.
The Caw Indians are a branch of the Osage tribe — speaking the same language, and identified by the same manners and customs. They num- ber a population of sixteen hundred, and claim all the territory west of the Delaware, Shawnee, and Pottowatomie line, to the head waters ot tlie Kansas. Their main village is on the left bank of the river, a few miles above the crossing. Their houses are built Pawnee fashion, being coni- form and covered with a thick coat of dirt, presenting a hole at the apex to emit the smoke, and another at the side to serve the double purpose of a door and window. The whole building describes a complete circle, in whose centre is placed the hearth-fire, and at the circumference the couches of its inmates. Its floor is the bare ground, and its ceiling the grass, brush, and poles which uphold the superincumbent earth forming the roof and sides.
The Caws are generally a lazy and slovenly people, raising but little corn, and scarcely any vegetables. For a living they depend mostly upon the chase. Their regular hunts are in the summer, fall, and winter, at which time they all leave for the buffalo range, and return laden with a full supply of choice provisions. The robes and skins thus obtained, furnish their clothing and articles for traffic.
...
As yet, civilization has made but small advances among them. Some, however, are tolerably well educated, and a Protestant mission established with them, is beginning its slow but successful operations for their good, — while two or three families of half-breeds, near by, occupy neat houses, and have splendid farms and improvements, thus affording a wholesome contrast to the poverty and misery of their rude neighbors.
The distance from Independence to this place, by the mountain trail, is some eighty miles, over a beautiful and fertile country, which I shall here- after take occasion to notice more fully. Before leaving, we were further increased by the accession of two Canadian xoijageurs — French of course. Our force now numbered some twenty-four — one sufficiently formidable for all the dangers of the route.
Sept. lOtli. Resuming our way, we proceeded till late at night, still attended by our Indian friends ; (not the originals, but a " few more of the same sort," who kindly supplied their places, — seeking to levy fresh drafts upon patience and generosity.) These vi^ere more importunate for liquor than any preceding them — though, in fact, the whole nation is nowise remiss in their devotion to King Alcohol. One fellow, in particular, exhausted all his
26 SCENES AT NORTJI FORK OF BLUE.
ingenuity to obtain the wherewith to " wet his whistle.^^ He was a shriv- el-faced old man, and occasioned much sport, fi-om his supphcations in broken English, which ran pretty much as follows :
" Big man, me. Chief, — Black Warrior. Me, American soldier ! Love Americans, heap. Big man, me ! Love whiskey, heap. White man good. Whiskey good. Love whiskey, me, — drink heap whiskey. No give me whiskey drink ? Me, Chief. Me, American. Me, Black War- rior. Heap big man, me ! Love Americans. Take him hand, shake. White man good. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey ! Love him heap ! No give Black Warrior whiskey ? No ? — one leetle drink ? Whiskey good. Me love him. Make Black Warrior strong. Big man, me, — Chief. American soldier. Me love American. Shake him hand. Fight him, bad Indian, no love white man. Kill him. White man good. Me love white man. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey. No give Black Warrior whiskey, — one leetle drink ? Me, Chief. Big man, me." Etc.
In this strain the old fellow continued so long as he found listeners, but without success, although, as I afterwards learned, two waggons were freighted with the noxious article ; none of it was suffered to find its way down the throats of our thirsty guests.
Pursuing a westerly course, nearly parallel with the Kansas, for three successive days, we passed the 14th encamped at Big Vermilion, for the purpose of procuring a quantity of hickory for gun-sticks and bow-timber. Hickory is unknown to the Rocky Mountains, and this being the last place on the route affording it, each of our company took care to provide himself with an extra gun-stick. Small pieces, suitable for bows, find market among the mountain Indians, ranging at the price of a robe each, while gun-sticks command one dollar apiece, from the hunters and trap- pers.
We were also careful to provide an extra quantity of ox-bows, axle-trees, &c., as a resource in case of accidents or breakage. These are articles with which every caravan should be furnished on a journey across the grand prairies.
In this vicinity a species of shrub, which I had before noticed in various places, (designated as "red-root" by ourvoyageurs,) became quite abundant. The red-root is highly esteemed as a substitute for tea, and my own expe- rience attests its superiority of flavor to any article of that kind imported from China. In appearance it is very similar to the tea of commerce, and it affords at all times a most excellent beverage. It is found only upon the prairies between the frontiers and Big Blue, and in some portions of tlie Rocky Mountains.
Leaving Big Vermilion, we travelled rapidly the two days subsequent, and arrived at the North Fork of Blue, — a large and deep stream, tributary to the Kansas. We were here detained till the 24th — the creek being im- passable on account of high water.
However, the beauty of the place and variety of its landscape scenery, served in a great measure to alleviate the weariness of delay. The coun- try was most agreeably interspersed with hills, uplands, and dales — amply watered and variegated with woods and prairies, attired in all the gaudy loveliness of wild-flowers. The busy bee, afraid of the cruel persecutions of man, had here sought a secure retreat to pursue, unmolested, her
ADVENTURE WITH A BUFFALO. 27
melliferous employ, and fill the dark chambers of her oaken palaces year by year with lioneycd store.^. The air was almost vocal with the music of her wings, and the flowerets were enlivened by the gentle touches of her embrace. The odor of honey filled the breeze, whicli, wafting the mingled melody of birds and insects with the incense of flowers, o'er the smiling prairie till lost in space, seemed more like the breath of Eden than the exhalations of earth.
As might be supposed, we were not slow in levying npon the delicious stores, which the industrious insects, claiming this as their dominion, had laid away for themselves. During our stay no less tlian four bee-trees were levelled, and every pan, kettle, pail, keg, or empty dish in the whole camp was filled to overflowing, and every stomach to repletion, with honey of almost crystalline transparency. The great abundance of deer, turkey, and other game in the vicinity, also contributed their share of amusement, and enlivened the interval of detention.
At length, by a partial subsidence of the water, we were enabled to efTect a crossing and renew our journey. Pursuing a course \V. N. W., on the 27th we met a small party of whites on their return from the mountains, and, yielding.to the temptation presented by a luxuriant and well-wooded valley, with a pretty streamlet, the two parties made common camp. Our new acquaintances were taking a large drove of horses, and several do- mesticated bufialo, with them to the States. Their horses had been mostly obtained from Upper California, the year previous, by a band of mountain- eers, under the lead of one Thompson. This band, numbering twenty-two in all, had made a descent upon the Mexican ranchos and captured between two and three thousand head of horses and mules. A corps of some sixty Mexican cavalry pursued and attacked them, but were defeated and pursued in turn, with the loss of several mules and their entire camp equipage : after which the adventurers were permitted to regain their mountain homes, without further molestation ; but, in passing the cheerless desert, between the Sierra Nevada and Colorado, the heat, dust, and thirst were so in- tolerably oppressive, that full one half of their animals died. The remain- der, however, were brought to rendezvous, and variously disposed of, to suit the wants and wishes of their captors.
The bufTalo, in possession of our wayfaring friends, had been caught while calves, and reared by domestic cows. They appeared as tame and easily managed as other cattle. One of them, a two-year-old heifer, was rather vicious in its habits, having been spoiled, while a calf, by the too great familiarity of its keeper. After listening to a full exposition of its bad qualities, our commandant offered to bet he could handle, or even ride, the unruly beast at pleasure.
•' Can you ?" said the owner. " Do it, and my best horse is yours !"
" I take all such ofters!" returned the commandant. "A horse could not be easier earned !" he continued, stepping towards the ill-tutored ani- mal. " Come, boss ! — Poor boss ! — bossy, bossy !" addressing the buff do, w^hich commenced advancing, — at first slowly, then, with a sudden bound, ran full tilt against the admirer, leaving him prostrate upon the ground, as it turned away, dancing and tU-owing its heels exultingly at the exploit.
"Bless my stars !" he exclaimed, on recovering himself; "I'd no idea
'twould serve me sol"
3=^
28 LIQUOR AND THE FUR TRADE.
"Ha, ha. ha!" retorted the owner. " You seem to pick upon a strange place for a snooze ! What in the world were you doing before that skittish beast ?"
The roar of laughter which followed, told how well the joke was relished by the crowd.
Reports from the mountains brought intelligence of recent difficulties between the whites and Sioux, — the latter having murdered several trap- pers. A battle had also been fought in the Snake country, in which the Sioux were defeated with a loss of twenty killed and wounded, — the whites suffered in the loss of their leader (Frapp) and four others. Another affair had come off, at Fort Platte, between two factions of that tribe, while on a drunken spree, resulting in the death of Schena-Chischille, their chief, and several of his party.
The most acceptable item of intelligence was the probability of our reaching the buffalo range in ten days, at least, where we should find vast quantities of those animals. This led our voyagcurs to expatiate anew upon the choice varieties of the feast of good things we might expect on that occasion.
Bidding adieu to our transient camp-mates, we were soon again en route. The day following, being unfit for travel, was devoted to overhauling and re-adjusting the freight of the waggons. Here, for the first time, I ascer- tained the fact, that a portion of the above consisted of no less than Iwentij-four barrels of alcohol, designed for the Indian trade !
This announcement may occasion surprise to many, when aware that the laws of Congress prohibit, under severe penalties, the introduction of liquor among the Indians, as an article of traffic, — subjecting the of- fender to a heavy fine and confiscation of effects. Trading companies, however, find ways and means to smuggle it through, by the waggon-load, under the very noses of government officers, stationed along the frontiers to enforce the observance of laws.
I am irresistibly led to the conclusion, that these gentry are wilfully neg- ligent of their duty ; and, no doubt, there are often weighty inducements presented to them to shut their eyes, close their ears, and avert their faces, to let the guilty pass unmolested. It seems almost impossible that a blind man, retaining the senses of smell, taste and hearing, could remain igno- rant of a thing so palpably plain. The alcohol is put into waggons, at Westport or Independence, in open day-light, and taken into the territory, in open day light, where it remains a week or more awaiting the arrival of its owners. Two Government 'agents reside at Westport, while six or eight companies of Dragoons are stationed at Fort Leavenworth, ostensibly for the purpose of protecting the Indians and suppressing this infamous traffic, — and yet it suffers no diminution from their vigilance! What faithful public officers ! How prompt in the discharge of their whole duty !
These gentlemen cannot plead ignorance as an excuse. They well know that alcohol is one of the principal articles in Indian trade — this fact IS notorious — no one pretends to deny it; not even the traders themselves — and yet, because no one takes the trouble to produce a specimen of the Idnd of freight taken, more or less, by all mountain companies, and fokce them to see, taste^ touch, and smell, they affect ignorance ! It is thus the
HIGH PRICES. 29
benevolent designs of our Government are consummated by these pension- ers upon the pubhc treasury !
Had they the will so to do, it would be no difficult matter to put a stop to all such exportations. The departure of any one of these companies for the mountains, is a thing too difticult to be effected unknown and stealthily. It becomes public talk for days and even weeks previous. Scarcely anything would be easier than for those whose business it is, to keep on the look out, and enforce the law to its full extent upon each of- fender. A few examples of this kind would interpose an insuperable bar- rier to the further prosecution of an illicit traffic in tbe manner it is at present carried on. A few faithful public officers, and attentive to their duty, regardless of fear or favor, would soon accompUsh an object so de- sirable.
In subsequent pages of this work I shall have occasion to notice a few of the many evils resulting from this criminal neglect, — but at present forbear further remarks.
Our arms were now put in order for immediate use, — each individual ap- portioning to himself a good supply of ammunition, to be ready at all times in case of attack. Guards were ordered to be constantly on the alert. The company was divided into two parties, — (me for day and the other for night guard, and these again were subdivided fur alternate reheves, — thus, one of each subdivision serving a day and a night, and the reserve the day and night succeeding. The day-guard consisted of only two persons, upon duty every other day, but the night-guard numbered ten, — two being on duty for two hours were then reheved by the two next in succession, and they by the next, and so on.
Strict orders were also given to prevent any from leaving camp, or part- ing from the caravan while travelling. In fact, every thing began to as- sume a warlike aspect, as if we were really in danger and apprehensive of an immediate rencounter.
Several boxes of clothing, &-C., were also opened for such as wished to purchase. But every article disposed of was sold at an enormous rate: tobacco bringing from one to three dollars per lb., according to quality; butcher-knives, from one dollar to one tifty each; hose, one dollar per pair; shirts, from three to five dollars each, according to quality; blank- ets, from twelve to sixteen dollars ; coats, from fifteen to forty dollars; coarse shoes, four dollars per pair ; six-penny calicoes, fifty cts. per yd.; beads, one dollar per bunch, etc. These were of an indifferent quality, and afforded the vender some three or four hundred per cent, advance upon purchase-price. In fact, with regard to prices, conscience had no- thino- to do with the matter.
80
CHAPTER IV.
Country from the frontiers to Big Blue, its geological character, &c. — Novel cure for fever and ague. — Indian trails. — Game. — Sage rabbits. — Antelope, and their }«'- culiarities. — Beaver cuttings. — Big Blue and its vicinity. — Dangerous country. — Pawnee bravery. — Night-alarrn, (Prairies on fa-e.) — Platte river.- -Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanatory of their phenome- non.— Something to laugh at. — " Big Jhn," and the antelope.
Se-pt. '2QLh. We are now camped upon a small creek, nearly destitute of timber, within two miles of Big Blue, or the N. W. branch of the Kansas river. The geography of this part of the country is incorrectly doscribod upon all the published maps I have yet seen. The Republican Fork, which is the principal branch of the Kansas, is uniformly represented as the most northwesterly branch of that river, forming a junction with it at or below the usual crossing. This is not the case.
The two forks of Blue, from the northwest, united, form a large and important stream, which, according to my impression, discharges its waters into the Kansas itself, and not into the Republican. Of this, however, I am not quite positive. But be that as it may, admitting the Republican to bo the main stream, Big Blue must be, as a matter of course, the most northwesterly branch of the Kansas river.
Proceeding up the Blue, the geological character of the country under- goes an entire and radical change, and the traveller is introduced to a diirer- ent order of things from that previously observed.
Perhaps, therefore, it is not out of place to present a general review of the territory thus far.
The interval from the frontier of Missouri to Big Blue, a distance up- wards of two hundred miles, affords grea.t uniformity in all its more promi- nent characteristics. It generally comprises beautifully undulating prai- ries, of a moist argillaceous soil, rich in sedimentary deposites and vege- table matter. It is somewhat rocky in places, but well watered by the almost innumerable streams that tind their wav into the Kansas, Platte and Arkansas rivers. The creeks, with but few exceptions, are hea\ily timbered with oak, hickory, walnut, maple, Cottonwood, and other varieties found in more eastern forests. The hills too, in some parts, are more titan usually abundant in springs, and covered with stately groves, as taste- fully arranged as if planted by the hand of man, while luxuriant grass and fragrant flowers usurp the place of underbrush. The prairies, hem- med in on every side by the woodlands skirting the water-courses, present to the eye proud oceans of ilowory verdure, tossing their wavelets to the breeze and perfuming the air with tlie breath of spring.
Tiie streams are clear, with rocky or pebbly bottoms and high, steep banks — abounding in choice specimens of the tinny tribes and varieties of the testaceous order, of \\\e <rcnas rniiscula. The valley of the Kansas is
SAGE RABBITS. 31
wide and of a deep brown vegetable mould, susceptible of a high state of cultivation. The whole country is well adapted to the double purpose of agriculture and the growth of stock.
The prevailing rock is sandstone of various shades and compactness, with siliceous and fossiliferous limestone. These specifications are gene- rally exhibited in a detached and fragmentary form, but rarely in strata as disclosed upon the surface.
Taken as a whole, the territory holds out many inducements to emi- grants, and, whenever brought into market, will no doubt become speedily and thickly populated.*
Sept. 30//?. We are again under headway. A French engage, who had been sufTering for several days past from a severe attack of the fever and ague, experienced a sudden and novel cure. Unable to travel, quar- ters were prepared for him in one of the whiskey waggons, where he was comfortably disposed of as we continued our course. In p^-ssing a rough place the waggon overset, when out came the invalid head foremost, and out came the whiskey barrels showering full upon him ! The suddenness of the fall, with the surprise and excitement of the occasion, — one, or both, or all, or some other cause unknown, eflected a complete cure, — for cer- tain it is, he did not suffer another attack of the fever and ague during the whole journey, and the next day was able to discharge his duties as well aw ever.
On striking the Big Blue, the m.ountain road bears a north-northwest course to the head of that stream, and from thence over an interval of high- lands to the Platte river. The distance travelled up the Blue requires some eight days, for heavy waggons. Continuing our way, about noon we passed several Indian trails, in addition to one ten or twelve or fifteen miles back. These consist of a number of well-beaten, parrallel foot-paths, bearing a northwest and southwest direction. They are formed by the passing and repassing of the Otoes, lowas, and Foxes, to and from their hunting grounds, towards the head-waters of the Kansas.
On the 3d of October we reached the antelope range, and saw four or five of these animals scouring the boundless expanse, or ascending some favorable eminence to gaze upon us. Slight signs of butTalo also appeared, and everything seemed to indicate the approach to a game country.
Parting a short distance from the trail, a large sage rabbit bounded up before me, — the first of his species I ever saw. This animal is nearly three times the size of the common rabbit, and of a white color, slightly tinged with grey. It derives its name from being found principally in coun- tries abounding with absinthe or wild sage. In the regions adjacent to the mountains, these animals occur more frequently, — and even among the mountains, where their tails and ears are tipped with jetty black. Their fur is soft and fine, — equalling if not surpassing that of the Russia rabbit. Their flesh is also of a superior flavor, as I have had opportunities of testinof.
Towards night, three antelope appearing near the trail, our hunter made
* By a recent treaty with the Kansas Indians, our government has' become possessed of nearly the whole of this beautiful section.
32 ^ ANTELOPE OF THE PRAIRIE.
an unsuccessful attempt to approach them, which afforded me a first ink- ling of the nature and character of these animals.
The antelope of the grand prairie differs but little in size and shape from the common sheep, and is coated with long, brittle hair, — of a ruddy brown color, except at the tail and head, where it is short and white. The female is hornless, except an occasional blunt corneous excrescence, some two or three inches long., protruding from the head. The male, however, is equipped with hook-shaped antlers, ebony colored, and six or eight inches in length, which he sheds annually in the months of November and De- cember.
This is the fleetest inhabitant of the prairie. No horse can compete with it in speed. Quick of sight, keen of scent, and acute of ear, it seems ever on the alert at the approach of real or supposed danger, — now swiftly advancing towards the object of its alarm or curiosity, — then circling before you with the fleetness of the storm-wind, to mount some eminence far away beyond reach, and gaze in security. Then, again, ere you have time to catch breath for admiration, it repeats its semi-gyration from an opposite direction, still nearer and swifter, till past, — as if indeed borne on the wings of lightning — and yet again surveys you in the distance. Now, running from point, to point it examines you upon all sides, as it cautiously passes round, — then, snuffing the breeze, it again calls to aid its fleetness of limb, and with the velocity of thought is lost to view in the vast ex- panse.
Possessed of an inordinate share of inquisitiveness, it not unfrequently falls a victim to its own curiosity. The hunter, turbaned with a red hand- kerchief and half concealed behind some object, first raising, then depress- ing his head, then withdrawing it entirely from view, then again disclosing it to the curious animal, is almost certain to allure his game within gun- shot.
I have seen numbers killed in this manner. In the spring season they appear more sensitive than at any other time, and are easily lured to their fate.
With the exhibition of this strange propensity, I have time and again been minded of its more fully developed moral prototype in man. How frequently do we see persons around us who indulge their appetites and passions, as often for mere curiosity as fancied pleasure, — venturing near- er and still nearer towards the objects that command their attention and lure them into the vortex of ruin, till, with sure and deadly aim, the shafts of the tempter pierce the waning vitals of morality, and plunge the vic- tims headlong into a yawning abyss, where they are lost to themselves, to society, and to the world — lost lorever !
Here, then, is furnished for us a moral: — Beware how you indulge a vain curiosity that lures to evil ; — never parley with temptation.
These animals are found from the Big Blue to the mountains — in Oregon, Cahfornia, Santa Fe, and N. W. Texas. Their flesh is tender and sweet, — quite equal to venison, though seldom fat, owing, as is sup- posed, to their almost incessant mobility.
Near our night-camp I noticed fresh beaver " cuttings," some of which consisted of trees, six inches in diameter, levelled by these sagacious ani- mals.
PAWNEE BRAVERY. 33
The vicinity disclosed frequont boulders of red and dark ferruginous sandstone, with a soil somewhat arenose, reclining upon a changeable deposite of sand and gravel, succeeded by a substratum of parti-colored and friable sandstone. The valley of the Blue is bordered by liills of graceful slope, both green and beautiful.
I here remarked for the first time the appearance of cacti, which here- from becomes quite common, and proves the pest of many places adjacent to the mountains.
The Blue is a deep, narrow stream, with a swift current, over a bed of gravel and pebbles, and is fringed by groves of oak, cotton-wood, and wil- low. Its valley is between one and two miles in widtl), with a superficeof variable fertility, but generally consisting of good arable land.
This section of country is considered very dangerous in the summer and fall months, on account of the strolling bands of Pawnees which infest it. The voyageur holds the latter in great dread, unless he chances to be accompanied by a sutiicient force to bid defiance to their approach. A party, numerically weak and indifferently armed, meets with rough treat- ment at their hands while on the open prairies. Persons and property are rarely respected, and the unfortunate traveller is not only plundered, but often whipt or murdered without mercy.
This, however, may not be said of all — it is only the young warriors, wiien beyond the restraint of their chiefs and seniors, who perpetrate such outrages ; though, to their praise be it said, instances of this kind are quite seldom, at present, compared with former years.
The courage of these Indians is held in little repute by mountaineers; and, that this opinion is not unfounded, the following incident will prove. It was relattd to me by an actor in the scene:
A small party of w^hites on their cruise down the Platte with a cargo of furs, '-lay by " to make meat, near the forks of that stream. Buffalo be- ing at souxe distance from camp, our adventurers were compelled to perform the duties of pack-horses in conveying the proceeds of tlieir hunting ex- cursions. One day, four of them left for this object, and having proceeded some six or eight miles, a war-party of Pawnees suddenly emerged from behind an eminence, directly fronting them. Alarmed at the unwelcome apparition, and imagining the whole country to be alive with Indians, they immediately ran, and were pursued towards camp. One of the number, a big, lazy fellow, and rather " green " w ithal, soon became tired, and sung out to his companions :
" Don't let's run so fast. Blast me, if T can keep up !"
"Come on, — come on !" cried they. " A thousand ' shaved heads' are upon us, hah' frozen for hair !"
"Pooh ! I'll bet five dollars there aint thirty !"
""Done ! But, who'll count the bloody varmints ?"
"Why, I'll do it, just for my own satisfaction." So saying, he wheeled and advanced towards the Pawnees, as his wondering companions halted a little distance off, to learn the result of his fool-darino-.
Surprised at this strange movement, the enemy also came to a stand, offording a fine opportunity to ascertain their number, which only amounted to nineteen !
34 PRAIRIES ON FIRE.
"I've won !" exclaimed our hero. " Let's charge, and give 'em the very devil!"
The v^^ord went for command, and the four hunters dashed boldly towards the terrified savages, who in turn fled, with greater velocity than they had called into exercise at any time during their advance, — illustrating the truth of the saying, " tyrants are always cowards." Legs proved quite convenient articles for the Pawnee braves ! They were out of sight in a few minutes, and were very careful not to stop until they had left their pursuers far in the rear.
A Pawnee with a defenceless enemy in his power, like some examples among the whites, is unrivalled in courage and daring ; but where there is resistance offered, and fighting to be done, he, as well as the Irishman's chickens, " comes up 7nissing .'" He is always bravest when farthest from danofer.
We were careful to observe the strictest vigilance at night, to prevent the loss of horses from lurkinw bands of Indians. The animals of the caravan were uniformly picketed in compact order, and sentinels, posted at suitable distances, continued to pace their rounds, from dark till daylight; while each of the company slept by his arms, in readiness at any moment to repel an attack.
Having travelled for seven successive days, we made camp late in tlie afternoon at the head of the right fork of Blue.
During the day we had noticed a dense smoke some distance in the rear, but, with the wind in an opposite direction, no uneasiness was felt on that account. The sentries were soon at their posts, and everything was snugly disposed of for the night. Those not on duty improved the oppor- tunity to gain respite from the fatigues of the day, and, in a brief interval, were snoring away at an admirable rate.
The polar-star by its " pointers " had just told the hour of midnight, when these hurried words rang through the camp :
"Lave, ho! Lave !"*= Prairies on fire! Quick — catch up! catch up!"
This startling announcement instantly brought every man to his feet; — and such a scene as now met the eye ! How awful, and how grand ! The wind, new changed and freshened, to the right and rear, was tossing the flames towards us, rapidly — lighting the heavens with their lurid glare, and transforming the darkness of night into a more than noon-day spleji- (lor !
Here was, indeed, an " ocean of flame .'" far as the eye could reach — dancing with fiery wavelets in the v/ind, or rolling its burning surges, in mad fury, eager to lick up every vestige of vegetation or semblance of combustible that appeared in its way ! — now shooting its glowing missiles far, far ahead, like meteors athwart the sky, or towering aloft from the weeds and tall grass, describing most hideous and fantastic forms, that, moving with the wind, more resembled a cotillion of demons among their native flames than aught terrestial ! — then driving whole sheets of the raging element into the withered herbage in front, hke the advance scouts
* " liave " appears to be a corruption of the Spanish word levar, to get up, oi axouse, as from sleep. It is in common use among mountaineers.
PLATTE RIVER AND ITS VICINITY. 35
of an invading army, swept onward its desolating course, leaving in ita track naught save a blackened waste of smoking ruins !
Altogether, it was a sublime spectacle, a stupendous scene, grand and imposing beyond description, and terrible in its beauty ! Commingled with sensations of wonder and admiration, it tended to impress the beholder with feelings of painful melancholy. The broad expanse, but a few moments since arrayed in all the mourning grandeur of fading autumn, was now a naked desert, and every vestige of loveliness in an instant snatched from view !
How sudden, how awful, how marked the change ! and yet, how mag- nilicent in its career, though doleful its sequel !
We were speedily under way, with as much earnestness of advance as that of righteous Lot, in his escape from burning Sodom.* For a while the pursuing enemy kept even pace, and threatened to overtake us, till, headed by the strong wind, which meanwhile had changed its course, it began to slacken its speed and abate its greediness.
About sunrise we crossed the regular Pawnee trails, (leading to and from their hunting grounds, which bore the appearance of being much fre- quented,) and at 10 o'clock, A. M., reached the Platte river, having trav- elled a distance of thirty miles without halting.
The mountain road strikes the above stream at lat. 40° 4r 06" north, lono-. 99<^ 17' 47" west from Greenwich, some twenty miles below the head of Grand Island. This island is densely wooded and broad, and extends for tifty or sixty miles in length. The river banks are very sparsely tim- bered, a deticiency we had occasion to remark during the remainder of our journey.
The valley of the Platte at this place is six or seven miles wide, and the river itself between one and two miles from bank to bank. Its w^aters Ure very shallow, and are scattered over their broad bed in almost innumera- ble channels, nearly obscured by the naked sand-bars that bechequer its entire course through the grand prairie. Its peculiarity in this respect gave birth to the name of Platte, (shallow,) which it received from the French, and Chartre, (surface,) from the Mexicans, — the Indians, accord- ing to Washington Irving, calling it Nebraska,-\ a term synonymous with that of tlie French and Americans, — however, I am ignorant in reference to the latter.
* The great peril of our situation, and the pressing necessity of a hurried flight, may be readily inferred from the fact, that one waggon was freighted with a large quantity of gunpowder. None of us were quite so brave or present-minded as several Mexicans, in the employ of Messrs. Bent & St. Vrain, on an occasion some- what similar. VV^hile journeying across the grand prairies, the powder-waggon acci- dentally caught fire, wiiich was noticed immediately by the Mexican attendants, who hurriedly clasped it upon all sides, to prevent the vehicle from being blown to pieces, while one of them proceeded deliberately to extinguish the flames ! Neither could we stand comparison with a lieutenant of the Mexican army, at Santa Fe, who, on opening a keg of powder, made use of a red-hot iron in lieu of an auger, for that purpose. It is needless to say, a tremendous explosion followed. Several of the by- standers were killed, but the "lieutenant miraculously escaped. He soon after receiv- ed a Captain's commission from the Commander-in-chief, in consideration of his indomitable courage !
t The Sioux have bestowed the appellation of Duck river upon the North Fork of Platte.
4
36 THEORY RELATIVE TO THE PRAIRIES.
The bottom upon the south bank is between three and four miles broad, and of a hght, deep, and rich soil, occasionally sandy, but covered with thick and lusty vegetation. Back from the valley, ranges of broken sand-hills mark the transition to the high arid prairies in the .-'ar, where vegetation becomes more dwarfish and stinted in its growth, and is interminglei with frequent cacti.
These immense plains are generally clad with a short, curly grass, (the buffalo grass,) very fine and nutrit'o'us, and well adapted to the sustenance of the countless herds of buffalo and other wild animals tliat feed upon it. Their soil is generally of a thin vegetable mould, upon a substratum of indurated sand and gravel.
In many places it is quite sterile, producing little other than sand-burrs and a specimen of thin, coarse grass, that sadly fail to conceal its forbidding surface ; in others, it is but little better than a desert waste of sand-hills, or white sun-baked clay, so hard and impervious that neither herb nor grass can take root to grow upon it ; and in others, it presents a light superfice, both rich and productive, beclad with all that can beautify and adorn a wilderness of verdure.
The springs and streams of water are " few and far between," — an evil, however, slightly atoned ior by the occasional pools formed in favoring de- pressions during the rainy season, which are retained in their places by the extreme hardness of the soil. Were it not for these it would be almost impossible, in many directions, to travel the vast prairies lying between the Arkansas and Missouri, from long. 22'^ 30' west from Washina'ton to the Rocky Mountains. That this section of country should ever become inhabited by civilized man, to any extent, except in the vicinity of large water-courses, is an idea too preposterous to be entertained ior a single moment.
As the reader is now inducted to the grand prairie as it is, it may not be amiss to say something relative to this phenomenon, before dismissing the subject in hand.
The steppes of Asia, the pampas of South America, and the prairies of the great West, so far as my information extends, are possessed of one general and uniform character. There is something deeply mysterious associated with them, that puzzles the philosopher and cosmogonist to ex- plain. Why is it neither timber nor shrubs, as a general thing, are found within their confines ? Why have not the same causes operated here which produced the stately forests of other regions ?
The above questions are often asked, and as often answered ; but never satisfactorily.
Some respond by a reference to their frequent burnings, — others to some chemical defect in their soil, — others, to the disgeniality of their climate, — others, to their infecund aridity, — and yet, others, to the sup- position that some operation of nature or art has etTected the destruction of quondam forests, and reduced them to their present condition.
Each of these answers, though, doubtless, partially true in many re- spects, fails to solve the problem before us.
Here we have, in many places, almost measureless extents of fertile soil, moist and abundantly watered, by rains, springs, and ever-flowing streams, with all the desiderata for the producing of trees, — and what
SOMETHING TO LAUGH AT. 37
withholds tlicm ? Other sections of country, under less favorable circum- stances, are not wanting in this respect.
Why is it? Timber of every kind adapted to the zone and climate will grow as thriftily when planted here, as elsewhere. The frontier forests of our Western States have been observed for years past to make slow but constant encroachment upon contiguous prairies, from all sides, where, as yet, they have a foothold ; — and why ? Partly, because their enlargement is not circumvented by those annual burnings that formerly devoured every tender shoot daring to raise its head above ground ; and, partly, through the operation of other causes, sure and gradual in their effect, which have planted the groves of other lands and taught their branches to wave in the breeze. Doubtless the same causes would produce the same results, all over these vast regions, as elsewhere.
But, why have they not ? — why are the prairies timberless ? Simply, because a sufficiency of time has not yet elapsed for the operation of these causes, — timber has hitherto had no possible chance for generation. The phenomenon, if rightly viewed, will thus explain itself. Geology points to the time when these vast solitudes were the bed of old Ocean and the home of waves, — but, gradually emerging or suddenly elevated from the watery abyss, they now present some of the more recent formations of dry land.
Herbage and grass, being more easily propagated than trees, — sown as are their seeds by the birds and scattered by the winds of heaven, — in a brief interval, beswathed the new-born earth with smiling green. Thus clothed with verdancy, they soon became the favorite pastures of the countless herds that thronged them. With game, appeared the red mm to hunt it, and with him the yearly conflagrations that now repel the in- truding woodlands and confirm the unbroken sway of solitude amid her far extending domains.
Here, then, we have spread before us the prairies as we find them, — the problem of their existence needs no further solution.
Oct. \1th. Still continuing up the Platte by its south bank, we made camp at night near the head of Grand Island. During our progress we saw large quantities of wild geese and cranes in the river bottoms, that presented tempting marks for our voT/^geurs. One of the latter, — a tall, raw-boned, half-crazed, and self-conlident Missouri " Ned," — good natured and inane, — sporting the familiar soubriquet of "Big Jim," — wishing to prove the truth of the Dogberry axiom, that " some things may be done as well others," started to approach a large flock of sand-hill cranes, parading half obscured in a plat of grass near the road side.
The wary birds, however, caught glimpse of the approaching Nimrod ^ and flew. Still our hero advanced, crawling upon all-fours, to witliin sixt^ or seventy yards of their recent position, when, raising up, he espyed an object which his excited imagination portrayed a crane, and promptly yielded to it the contents of his rifle.
Of course the obstinate creature remained in statu quo.
Re-loading wdth all possible speed, he again flred ! But the second shot proved futile as the first.
Determined the next should count whether or no, he advanced still nearer, and had raised for his third discharge, before the naked truth burst
38 BIG JIM AND THE ANTELOPE.
^^••^^^^^^s^^^jt^-m
upon his astonished vision, — he had been shooting at a bunch of dead grass ! Shouldering his rifle he now rejoined the caravan, and was received by the wags who had witnessed his exploit, as follows :
" Ho, Jim ! I say, Jim ! Did you kill it ?"
" Hang me, but it stood fire well, — didn't it ?"
" Reckon you wanted a bigger charge."
" Strange you couldn't knock it cold at that distance !"
" May be your gun's out of order ?"
"Yes. I'll bet a stewed crane of it. Have you noticed the " si^/i/s "
ktely ?"
" Why, Jim. Really you've had had luck ! What, within sixty yards and not kill ? I can beat that, all day !"
" Ha, ha, Jim ! Shoot him grass !"
This rally was received, by our hero, in good part, who joined in the sport with as much gusto as though some one else were the victim.
The day, however, was not permitted to pass without another display of the prowess of " Big Jim."
A doe antelope, attracted by the strange appearance of tlie moving cara- van, and impelled by its innate curiosity, had ventured to a tempting prox- imity. Mounted upon a fleet horse and supposing he could easily ride down the antelope, our hero started in pursuit.
Intently surveying the passing scene, the agile animal permitted him to advance within a few yards of her before she took the alarm. Now was a novel race. Away went antelope and away went Jim, in full chase. The former was soon far ahead, and stopped to gaze upon her pursuer.
Supposing she had become tired and was about to yield, our hero came dashing on, impetuously, under whip and spur, fully intent upon her cap- ture. But, again, away went antelope, and away went Jim, whose steed, ambitious as its rider, and proud in its own fleetness, strained every nerve for the crisis. Even the antelope seemed to have found a champion to contest her unrivalled and universally acknowledged superiority. With distended mouth and protruding tongue, panting in the excitement of fear, and foaming in the vehemency of effort, she gained but slowly upon the bounding charger, as both swept over the prairie almost with speed of the storm-wind !
Now, again, she stops to gaze upon her pursuer. By this time all be- gan to feel an interest in the result of the strange race. The word re- sounded :
" Go it, Jim ! you'll beat the beater, yet !"
Once more, the antelope shoots from before both horse and rider, like the swift-wino-ed arrow twanged from a giant's bow !
A broad ravine intercepting her course was cleared at a bound, and left the flying animal far upon the other side. At a bound the steed also cleared the barrier, but, in striking upon the opposite bank, it plunged headlong upon the yielding ground, tossing its rider far away in advance, all safely sprawling in a sand heap.
The luckless wight, on recovering, found his noble beast so sprained by the fall it could scarcely stand, and its every nerve vibrating with frightful tremors. Of course here was the finale of the race, as both now re- turned to the caravan, — the recent rider, on foot, leading his jaded steed,--
BIG JDFS THIRD ATTEMPT AS HUNTER. 39
the ridden slowly limping behind, — presenting a marked contrast between the opening- and closing scene.
Tlie ill-fated horse was too much disabled for further service during the journey.
As our hero joined the company, the joke-loving wags again broke loose :
" Well, Jim. I say, — ahem ! did you catch the tarnal critter ?"
"Pooh! Why didn't you hold on, and not let her shde through your fingers in that way !"
" Why, man ! You wasn't spry enough, when you jumped off your horse, or you might have caught her — just as easy !"
" I'd hke to know wiiat you was diving arter in that sand-bank ! — the antelope wasn't there !"
" Oh, Jiin ! Shoot him grass, kill horse. Me look next time he run antelope."
The passive recipient of these sallies had little peace from hence- forth, and soon began to wish he had never seen an antelope or heard ot a crane.
CHAPTER V.
Deserted camp. — Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter.— Buffiilo and otlier particu- lars.— Big Jim lying guard. — Butchering. — Strange selections. — Extraordinary eating, and excellence of buffalo meat..— Brady's Island.— The murderer's fate.— Substitute for wood.— A storm.— Game in camp.— Strange infatuation.— Tenaciry of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them.— Cross S. Fork of Platte.— Big Jim's fourth adventure.
Near camp was the site recently occupied by tlie Pawnee village, whose occupants had evidently deserted it with the utmost })recinitanc3', leaving lodge-skins, mortars, bowls, pans, and a variety of other articles strown confusedly upon all sides. TJiey had doubtless become alarmed at the approach of some real or supposed enemy, and consulted their own safety in flight.
Having started early the next day, our hunter soon brought in twt fine- antelope, the sight of which again raided the ambition of Big Jim, who would fain do deeds of equal wonder ; and he accordingly strolled off into the hills with that intent. After shooting at several of the wary animals without success, he began to get tired of the sport, and concluding the " poverty-stricken " creat\ires not worth the powder and lead, set his face for the caravan.
Plodding leisurely along, he espied a prairie snake, and, o'erjoyed at the thought of counting a " couj), " gathered his rifle by the small, and brought it down with such force, ho not only killed the snake, but broke his gun-stock short off at the breech. With the pieces, one iu each hand, he made his appearance before his comrades, v.'ho hailed him :
4*
40 LYING GUARD.
'• Hallo, Jim. What's that you've killed ?"
" Gun broke. Why, you must have overloaded it !"
*' When'll you go hunting again ? — 'case I want to go too !"
" Poor Jim ! Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun ! Wat in de worl does him mean !"
" Never mind, Jim. Don't be skeered at these fellows. It takes you to play the devil and break things !"
Towards night, several buffalo bulls having made their appearance, our hunter, mounting a horse, started for the chase, and in a brief interval, re- turned laden with a supply of meat. Camp had already been struck, and preparations for the new item of fare were under speedy headway.
The beef proved miserably poor ; but when cooked, indifferent as it was, I imagined it the best I had ever tasted. So keen was my relish, it seemed impossible to get enough. Each of us devoured an enormous quantity for supper, — and not content with that, several forsook their beds during the night to renew the feast, — as though they had been actually starving for a month.
The greediness of the '■ greenhorns," was the prolific source of amuse- ment to our voyageurs, who made the night-air resound with laughter at the avidity with which the unsophisticated ones " walked into the attections of the old bull," as they expressed it. " Keep on your belts till we get among cows," said they, "then let out a notch or two, and take a full meal."
It was equally amusing to me, and rather disgusting withal, to see the " old birds," as they called themselves, dispose of the only liver brought in camp. Instead of boiling, frying, or roasting it, they laid hold of it raio, and, sopping it mouthful by mouthful m gall, swallowed it with surprising gusto.
This strange proceeding was at first altogether incomprehensible, but, ere the reader shall have fohowed me through all my adventures in the wilds of the great West, he will find me to have obtained a full knowledge of its several merits.
The beef of the male buffalo at this season of the year, is poorer than at any other. From April till the first of June, it attains its prime, in point of excellence. In July and August, these animals prosecute their knight-errantic campaign, and, between running, fighting and gallantry, find little time to graze, finally emerging from the contested field, with hides well gored, and scarcely tiesh enough upon their bones to make a decent shadow.
It is nowise marvellous, then, that our lavish appropriation of bull- meat at this time, when it is unprecedentedly tough, strong-tasted, and poor, should excite the mirth of our better-informed beholders.
The night was a cold one, and claimed for it Big Jim as second guard. When called for " relieve," with a borrowed gun, he commenced his rounds, — but the cold soon drove him to the camp-fire.
Here, weariness and the somnific effects of a generous heat, speedily found him stretched at full length towards the fire, snoring away at a sound •"ate, the subject of their combined influence
SLADGHTEil OF BUFFALO. 41
The guard time had already expired, and his j^artner on duty, perceivinj^r the pleasant situation of the indonr.table Jiui, called the next " relieve," and retired.
These paced their rounds, and the fourth guard succeeded, but still our hero occupied the same place in which he had lain his " tour." The sentinels were about to take their posts, as a loud sharp voice resounded through camj).
" Quit, there ! What d'ye mean ?"
Hastening to the spot from which the cry proceeded, who should be seen but Big Jim, in great agony, rubbing his foot with most pitiable grimace :
His slumbers had been disturbed by a falling log, of the camp-lire, which had planted its glowing weight full against one of his feet, — becri?^ping the sole of his shoe and severely scorching its tenant, before awakening him. Dreaming some one had hold of his foot, and started by a sudden acuteness of pain, he exclaimed as above quoted.
The sentinels laughed at his mishap, and turning to pace their rounds, drawled out :
" What d'ye mean ? Sure enough, what d'ye mean ! Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, lay guard, burn shoe, and scorch foot ; — all in two days and two nights ! Poor devil, — why ye no born wid better luck !"
With the morning, the subject of his recent adventures called forth fresh scintillations of waggish wit, — while the unrivalled capacity of our hero, as a gormandizer, gave cue to the cuts that followed :
" Well, my head for a foot-ball, if that aint the greatest idea yet. What ! — roast foot, basted with leather, — and his own at that ! Such a meal none but Jim would ever have thought of !"
" Why, man ! What put you in the notion of that dish ?"
" Strange, indeed, if you can't find the wherewith to stuff your devil, without cooking your feet ! Souse, to be sure ! Here, you can take my hat !"
The luckless wight had now enough to engage his attention during the remainder of the journey, and began to wish he had never seen a moun- tain company, or left his sweet home in Missouri to cross the great prairies with such a crowd, — but all to no purpose ; he was too late to retrace his stops alone.
Oct. I3th. Starting at early day, we travelled till about 11 o'clock, A. M., and halted for breakfast. The teams were scarcely turned to graze, when a dense band of buffalo cows made their appearance, from the back prairie, wending their way towards the river.
Expectation vvas on tip-toe, and all appetites doubly sharpened for an anticipated feast, as our hunter and his assistant started to intercept the witless animals at the river bank.
The two placed themselves in a chosen position and awaited the heavily moving throng, which soon advanced to within shooting distance. Tlie sharp crack of a rifle now stopped their headway, and caused them to le- coil a few paces, leaving one of their number struggling in death, x^n other discharge followed, and the affrighted herd were seen flying from their concealed enemy, with all the energy that innate dread of danger and
42 EXTRAORDINARY EATING.
death lent to their ready feet, — but n^t until another victim had dank the eod with the unsought libation of its heart's blood.
It pained me, as I came up, to witness the noble beasts as they lay ex- tended upon the gore-dyed ground. But the present was no time for regret ; we were to feed upon their carcases.
The process of butchering was a new developement of that most use- ful science. The carcase was first turned upon the belly, and braced to a position by its distended legs. The operator then commenced his labors by gathering the long hair of the " boss,''^ and severing a piece obliquely at the junction of the neck and shoulders, — then parting the hide from neck to rump, a few passes of his ready knife laid bare the sides, — next paring away the loose skin and preparing a hold, with one hand he pulled the shoulder towards him and with the other severed it from the body ; — cut- ting aslant the uprights of the spina dorsi and "hump ribs," along the late- ral to the curve, and parting the " fleece " from the tough flesh at that point he deposited it upon a clean grass-spot.
The same process being described upon the opposite side, the carcase was then slightly inclined, and, by aid of the leg-bone bisected at the knee- joint, the " hump-ribs " were parted from the vertebrae ; after which, pass- ing his knife aside the ninth rib and around the ends at the midrifl', he laid hold of the dissevered side, and, with two or three w^ell directed jerks, re- moved it to be laid upon his choicely assorted pile ; a few other brief minu- tiaB then completed the task.
Meanwhile, divers of the company had joined the butcher, and, w^hile some were greedily feeding upon liver and gall, others helped themselves to marrow-bones, ^^ boudins,^^ and iniesiinum medulcB, (choice selections with mountaineers,) and others, laden with rich spoils, hastened their re- turn to commence the more agreeable task of cooking and eating.
The remaining animal was butcliered in a trice, and select portions of each were then placed upon a pack-horse and conveyed to the waggons.
The assortment was, indeed, a splendid one. The " dcpouille " (fleece- fat) was full two inches thick upon the animal's back, and the other dainties were enough to charm the eyes and excite the voracity of an epicure.
The camp-fires soon presented a busy and amusing spectacle. Each one was ornamented with delicious roasts, en appolas, on sticks planted aslope around it, attentively watched by the longing xoyageurs, who await- ed the slow process of cooking. Some were seen with thin slices from the larder, barely heated through by the agency of a few coals, retreating from the admiring throng to enjoy solo their half-cooked morsels, — others, paring off bit by bit from the fresh-turned hissing roasts, while their opposite re- ceived the finishing operation of the fire, — and others, tossing their everted boudins into the flames, and in a few seconds withdrawing for the repast, each seizing his ample share, bemouthed the end in quick succession to sever the chosen esculent, which, while yielding to the eager teeth, coursed miniature rivulets of oily exuberance from the extremities of the active orifice, bedaubing both face and chin, and leaving its delighted eater in all the glories of grease !
Every man had now become his own cook, and, not to be backward, I closed in with the overture.
Seizing a frying-pan replete with tempting levies from the " fleece," I
BRADY'S ISLAND. 43
twice subjected it to its duty, and as often its delicious contents found am- ple store-house ; and even yet my longing apj)etite seemed loth to cry "hold, enough !"
The agreeable odor exhaled from the drippings of the frying flesh, con- tained in the pan, invited the taste, — a temptation claiming me for its sub- ject. Catching up the vessel, a testing sip made way for the whole of its coTitents, at a single draught, — full six gills ! Strange as it may seem, I did not experience tlie least unpleasant feeling as the result of my extraor- dinary potation.
The stomach never rebels against buffalo-fat. Persons, subsisting en- tirely upon the flesh of these animals, prefer an assortment of at least one third solid depouille.
The voyageur is never more satisfied than when he has a good supply of bnflililo-beef at his command. It is then his greasy visage bespeaks content, and his jocund voice and merry laugh evince the deep-felt pleasure and gratification that reign within.
Talk not to him of the delicacies of civilized life, — of pies, puddings, soups, fricasees, roast-beef, pound-cake, and desert, — he cares for none of these things, and will laugh at your verdancy !
He knows his own preference, and will tell you your boasted excellencies are not to be compared with it. If you object to the sameness of his sim- ple fare, he will recount the several varieties of its parts, and descant upon each of their peculiar merits. He will illustrate the numerous and dissimilar modes of so preparing them, that they cannot fail to excite by their presence and appease by their taste the appetite of the most fasti- dious. And then, in point of liealih, there is nothing equal to buffalo-meat. It, alone, will cure dyspepsy, prevent consumption, amend a broken consti- tution, put flesh upon the bones of a skeleton, and restore a dead man again to life ! — if you will give credence to one half of the manifold virtues he carefully names in your hearing.
Oct. l-ith. We were early en route, and made some twenty miles. Our hunter, during the day, rejoined the caravan, laden with the best por- tions of three other fat cows, to add to the fund of life and good humor en- joyed by each.
Late in the afternoon, we made camp opposite a heavily wooded island, called Brady's Island, in memory of a man, so named, who was murdered upon it by his companion seme eight years ago.
The two were connected with a boat, laden with furs, on its passage to the States. They had frequently quarrelled, and were generally upon otherwise bad terms. On the day of the fatal occurrence, they were left alone in camp by the rest of the boat's crew, who went in quest of bufllilo. At their return, Brady was found lying in his blood, — kill- ed, as his companion affirmed, by the accidental discharge of his own rifle.
The tale was received quite doubtingly, and its listeners were only de- terred from the execution of summary vengeance upon the murderer by thought of the bare possibility of its truth.
The body of the unfortunate man was buried near the spot, — but being subsequently disinterred by the wolves, his bones were left to bleach and
44 THE MURDERER'S FATE.
moulder in the sun and rains of heaven. Some of them were lying scat- tered near by, upon our arrival, which were collected by the sympathizing voyageurs, who bestowed upon them those rites of sepulture they had been so long and cruelly denied.
The reader will naturally enquire, what became of the supposed mur- derer ? His was a fearful retribution, — a mournful tale of suffering, worse than death, till death itself in pity came to his relief.
Soon after the melancholy incident previously related, the shallowness of the Platte river compelled the company to abandon their boat, and make the best of their way to the States on foot, — a distance of two hundred and fifty miles to the nearest inhabitants, either Indian or white.
Their provisions running short, and no game at hand, a separation was had about midway of their journey, and each one hurried to its termination as rapidly as possible. The murderer, being but an indifferent walker, was soon left far in the rear.
His comrades, on their arrival at the Pawnee village, sent two Indians to bring him in, and continued their course to Council Bluffs.
Nothing further was known of the subject of our sketch, till some eight or nine days subsequent, when a small party of engages in the employ of the American Fur Company, on passing the Pawnee village, were met by the head-chief, who requested them to visit a white man lying sick at his lodge.
They went. He was the murderer, at the point of death. His story was briefly told.
The night succeeding the departure of his companions, in an attempt to light a fire with his pistol, to disperse by its smoke the myriads of mus- quetoes that swarmed around and nearly devoured him, an unknown charge it contained was lodged in his thigh-bone — severing it to a thousand pieces. In this condition he lay helpless. To walk was impossible ; — he could scarcely move, far less dress his wounds in a proper manner. He man- aged, however, to affix a piece of red flannel to an upright stick, to tell the transient traveller the site of his supposed last resting place, then, crawl- ing with difficulty to t!ie river-side, he remained six days and nights — tor- mented by musquitoes, reduced by pain, and wasted by continued hunger, till scarcely the wreck (»f manhood was left him.
It was then he longed for death to terminate his agony. Still he could not endure the thoughts of dying.
Early in the morning of the seventh day, his ear caught the indistinct murmur of sounds. Were they human voices ? — No, he must be dream- ing. He hears them again. It is no dream ; — they are human voices !
They approach. Is it to his assistance ?
O'erjoyed he beholds two Pawnees bending over him, with compassion pictured expressively upon their countenances. They gave him meat, — they dressed his wounds, and did everything in their power to alleviate his misery.
Oh, say not there is no pity in the bosom of the red man !
Having constructed a rude litter of poles, and using their own robes for his bed, they carefully conveyed him upon their shoulders to the place he yet occupied.
But the care of sympathizing attendants failed to atone for previous neg
GAME IN CAM?. 46
4ect. Mortification had already taken }>lace, and dcatli claimed him for a victim. He expired in the presence of those whom the good chief had called to his bed-side; — but, before his tongue refused to speak, he con- fessed the murder of Brady, and owned the justice of his punishment in all the untold miseries he had been compelled to endure. " Vengeance is mine, and I will repay it, saith the Lord!"
On resuming our journey the road gradually bore towards the hills upon the left, (which presented an outhne of conical eminences, rising, as the traveller advances, to an elevation of four or five hundred feet,) and finally crossed them at the point of an angle formed near the confluence of the two great forks of the Platte, upon the east side ; from thence, descending to the opposite bottom, we reached a timberless spring and made camp soon after nightfall.
The lack of wood at this place was readily met by the great abun- dance of hois de vache, (bufluio-chips,) the common substitute of the prairies ; and, in a brief interval, the camp-fires were merrily blazing, with all the appliances of cookery about them.
Early the next morning, our hunter rejoined the caravan, bringing with him the spoils of two more cows. He had passed the night upon the prairie alone, without coat or blanket, or anything to screen him irom the bleak autumn winds, that swept over the naked plains, dancing their dirges to tlie dying year.
The sky gave evidence of an approaching storm, and we hastily started in quest of some more sheltered spot in which to weather it. A few miles brought us to the river, and, availing ourselves of a small supply of drift wood, we made halt.
The combustibles the vicinity afforded were soon collected, and the camp- fires imparted their generous warmth despite the falling rain. Nor were they permitted to remain long unembellished by the numerous kettles, frying-pans, and roasting-sticks at command.
I here enjoyed full test of some of the many varieties of mountain fare hitherto so freely enlarged upon by our voyageurs, — which, as they now asserted, would make a man " shed rain like an otter, and stand cold like a polar bear !" — quaintly adding, " if he could always live upon such ' didins,' he need never dief
I must in justice confess that the real merits of our present " bill of fare," by far exceeded my previous expectations.
The rain continued till near night ; but little did we care. The choicest the prairie afForded, was now before us, and, rain or shine, we were con- tented. Sound in health and buoyant hi spirits, we fully enjoyed ourselves, despite the Crowning elements.
A little before sundown, the rain subsided into a thick fog, and an old bull, in the consequent obscurity, straggled close upon camp.
The abrupt passage of a rifle-ball tJirough his lights, was his Grst feeling sense of the presence of danger. The affrighted customer then retreated a few steps, and, falling, surrendered himself to the resistless power of cold lead.
A large band of cows also made their appearance, in the same manner, and our hunter struck out to waylay them.
46 STRANGE INFATUATION.
Permitting the unwitting animals to advance within good shooting dis- tance, a discharge from his rifle brought down one of their number. The band then recoiled slightly ; but, snufting the odor of blood, they returned immediately to their prostrate companion.
This was enough, — a charm now riveted them to the spot, — a strange infatuation had seized upon them. 1'hey began by spurning the ground with their feet, — then, bellowing, gored the fallen beast, as if forcing her to rise, — then, rolling upon the grass, in demonstrative sympathy, — and, now that she had ceased to struggle and lay yet quivering in death, they licked her bleeding wounds and seemed to exercise a kind of mournful rivalry in the bestowment of their testimonials of aflection.
She is encircled by her companions. An efl"ort to approach from without is resisted by those within. A fight ensues, and all becomes confusion. Each turns against her neighbor, and continues the strife till the space around the carcase is again vacated ; whereupon a general rush once more centers to the spot, and all unite to react the former scene.
In this manner they persisted in their frenzied devotion to the fallen one, as if determined to restore her to life and action, or perish by her side.
Meanwhile the hunter's rifle had been busily employed. But they heeded it not. Four more of their number lay gasping in death upon the en- sanguined ground ; and still they seemed no more disposed to leave the scene of slaughter than at first. Sixteen successive shots were fired, each bearing blood, wounds and death, and yet the spell was no nearer broken.
It was a spectacle vested with melancholy animation. The pawing, goring, bellowing, licking of wounds, and struggles of rival aflTection, re- mained the same, with no visible abatement of their vehemency.
The sun had set, and the sable hue of twilight empalled the blood-dank slaughter-ground. The death-dealing rifle had ceased its sharp crack, and the gore-scenting wolves, half starved and eager for their supposed prey, came flocking upon every side, mingling their wobegone howlings with the piteous moans of the spell-bound herd, and the loud whistlings of the prairie winds, — and yet, they lingered.
At last the impatient hunter advanced. More afTrighted at the presence of man than the companionship of death, they now gave way, and reluc- tantly left the field to him, who had so unfeelingly occasioned their burthen of mourning and woe ; — still, ever and anon stopping to gaze, as if longing to return and die with those they loved !
All hands were now summoned to aid at the work of butchery ; but the fast-enshrouding darkness soon drove us back to camp, leaving the task not half completed.
Our withdrawal from the premises was the signal for possession by the eager wolves, whose ceaseless yelpings the livelong night, made the gloomy interval doubly dismal. By morning, nothing but bones and thick pieces of skin marked the scene of their recent revellings !
Thus early, I had learned, that to approach buffalo with success, the hunter should carefully maintain the leeward, such being their remarkable sensi- tiveness, they will sooner flee from the smell than the sight of a man. Their sense of smell, with the wind, in fact, far exceeds their scope of
BIG JIM'S FOlIR'lir ADVENTURE.
vision. It is so extremely acute, that even the fresh footsteps of a man, crossing their path, are to them a sure cause of alarm and flight.
Of all the diversities of game indigenous to the mountains and prairies of the great West, with the exception, perhaps, of the grizzly bear, no animal is more tenacious of life than the buffalo. To shoot it in the head, is an inane effort. No rifle can project a ball with sufficient force to per- forate the thick hair and hide to its brain, through the double scull-bono that protects it. A paunch shot is equally vain. The only sure points ior the marksman are, the heart, lights, Iddneys, or vertebrae ; and even then the unyielding victim not unfrequently escapes.
Buffalo, wounded in the skirts of the lights, have been known to live for several days afterwards. 1 have witnessed their escape, even after the re- ception of fifteen bullet-wonnds, and most of them at such points as would have proved fatal to almost any other animal.
In the summer of '43, 1 myself killed one of them, that had been shot through the pussy surface at the hull of ikj heart, apparently four or five days previous, which doubtless would have recovered had it remained un- molested.
A gun, suitable for killing this kind of game, should never carry to ex- ceed Ibrty balls to the pound — a lesser bore would be almost entirely use- less. The distance generally required for a shot, the smallness of the ball, its liability to variation from tlie wind, with its failure to " hold up " and retain its force, contribute to render the use of such a piece little el«e than idle waste of ammunition.
Oct. nth. The sun arose bright and clear, and with its first appearance the caravan was in motion. Proceeding up the South Fork some ten miles we halted for breakfast, and made arrangements for fording the stream.
Near us lay the carcase of one of the cows wounded on the previous evening, and as yet scarcely dead. She had travelled thus far after being- shot in the lights.
Our crossing was effected with little difficulty, but occupied till late in the afternoon. The river was full a mile wide and very shallow, with a soft sandy bed, requiring the strength of all the united teams to each wag- gon. The day proved cold, and the water was like an application of ice to the naked skin. Our teamsters, who were compelled to cross and recross, some dozen times, felt in not the best humor, and were better pleased than any one else at the termination of their unpleasant task.
Having safely gained the opposite bank, we travelled up the river five or six miles, and halted for the night.
During our course the bottoms upon either side presented one dense, interminable band of buffalo, far as the eye could reach. The whole prairie pictured a living mass, moved by impulsive dread, as the breeze heralded our approach, and the countless multitude made way before and on either hand.
Ever and anon, an old bull would linger, as if to intimidate, and not un- frequently venture within gun-shot. One fellow, in particular, passed side- long, for a mile or more, stopping at intervals to gaze upon us, shaking his shaggy head in defiance, as much as to say, " you dare not come near !''
Big Jim saw this, and his pride was wounded. The bull, in his opinion,
48 RARE POLITENESS.
had challenged the whole party, and there was no one stout-hearted enough to accept it.
Here was a chance for a full display of his bravery and skill. Ever since we had reached the buffalo range, his proud spirit had yearned to be- come the death of some one of these terrible monsters, that he might relate the deed of perilous exploit to wondering posterity, and incite the rising generation to emulate his noble achievement.
But, alas, for the fadeless laurels he might otherwise have won, in an evil hour his rifle had been sacriticed for the extermination of a huo-e, venomous serpent. He did the deed at one fell blow ; — brave, but unfortu- nate ! Yet he had one consolation amid his troubles, — no victory is ever gained without some loss to the conquerors.
Still, he needed his gun, for without it how was he to avenge the foul in- sult the savage beast ot the prairie was even now hurling in the very face of the shrinkino- crowd ? Somethingf must be done.
With these cogitations, an idea struck him, — he could borrow a rifle ; so, advancing to a comrade, he exclaimed :
"Do lend me your rifle, one minute !"
" Yes, Jim," was the ready reply. " But see you don't break it over the first paltry little snake you come across !"
" That's a lie. 'Twas a big^ rattle-snake I broke mine over. 'Twasn't a paltry little snake !"
Thus, vindicating his assaulted reputation, he took the gun and hastened to prostrate the impudent barbarian inviting attack.
Jim looked at the bull, and the bull looked at Jim, — shaking his head, and throwing the loose sand from beneath him high into the air with his feet, and goring the ground with his horns of burnished ebony. If the creature had looked terrible before, he now looked fourfold more so, in Jim's estima- tion.
Thinking caution the parent of safety, our hero was unwilling to venture further, and so, prostrating himself at full length behind a clustre of absiii/he, (sage,) he planted his battery, having his high-crowned hat for a rest, and blazed away at the bull's head.
The hardened wretcli stood the shot without flinching. Looking for a moment at the spot from whence the strange sahite had proceeded, and again shaking his head and snorting with scorn, he wheeled and slowly trotted ofl".
Eager to get a secoiia trial to finish the work so nobly begun, our hero commenced pursuit. Seeing him advancing, the bull thought it time to show his heels, and in a few minutes was lost in the distance.
The courageous Nimrod now, for the first time, bethought him of his hat, which, in the ardor of his bold charge, he had left at the spot chosen as his stand to hurl death and destruction to the naughty bull. He hastened to regain it — but no hat could be found ; — the winds had borne it far away over the prairie, to be worne out in search of a wearer, and tho unlucky bravo, hatless, rejoined the caravan.
Here the truth at once flashed upon the minds of the waggish clique, that had hitherto proved his sore annoyance, and they began anew :
■ " Now that beats me, clear out ! How came you to give the bull your Jiat and leave yourself bare-headed ? That's another wrinkle !"
SCENERY AT ASH CREEK. 49
" It's no such thing," said Jim. " The wind took it away ; — and it's none of your business neither. I paid for it T^
" True. But what did the wind want with your hat ? Sure, if it needed a foot-ball, to toss over the prairies, it would have taken your head, the lightest of the two!"
" You're a fool !" retorted Jim, indignantly.
" There, now. That's the time you cotcht it, my boy. Why, fellow, Mr. Jeems took off his hat, out of pure politeness, — to win the good opinion of the bulk He were right. Didn't you see how the gentleman-cow bowed and scraped in turn. Why, he throw^d the dirt clean over his back, not to be outdone in good breeding ! Ah, but the pesky wind ! While Mr. Jeems were showing his brotten up, what had it to do, but to snatch his hat and run off ivith it ! Mr. Jeems are no fool ! and the feller what says he am, — (I want you all to understand me ; Mr. Jeems have been most shamefully abused and misused, and I can whip the chaps what's done it — provided they'll let me ; — I say, then, I want you all to understand me !) Mr. Jeems are no fool, and the man what says he am — is, — (I can't think of words bad enough,) — is — is, as near the mark as though he'd drove centre T^
" Aye. Jim's right. You are all a pack of dougli-heads to make fun of him in the way you do. Suppose you'd be struck comical I Then what'd ye think of yourselves !"
" Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, and go bare-headed ! Wat him mean ?"
" I say, Jim. When 're going a hunting again ? — 'case I want to go 'long too !"
CHAPTER VI.
Ash Creek. — Pawnee and Sioux battle-ground. — Bread-root. — The Eagle's Nest. — Mad wolf, — Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. — Mad bull. — Making and curing meat. — Big Jim still unfortunate. — Johnson's creek. — McFar- lan's Castle. — Deceptiveness of distances. — Express from the Fort. — Brave Bear. — Bull Tail. — Talk with the Indians. — Speech of Marto-cogershne. — Reply. — Tah- tungah-sana's address.
Oct 18th. Bearing to the right, over a high undulating prairie, we struck the North Fork of the Platte, after a drive of about twelve miles, and continuing up its left bank a short distance, camped for the night at the mouth of Ash Creek.
The stream at this place is a broad bed of sand, entirely dry, except in the spring months. Higher up, however, it affords a generous supply of pure running water, sustained by the numerous feeders that force their way into it, from the high grounds dividing the two rivers.
The valley is of variable width, and well timbered with beautiful ash groves, from which the creek derives its name. Here are also found se^e- ral varieties of wild fruit indio-enous to the mountains. As a whole, it
60 BREAD-ROOT.— THE EAGLE'S NEST
presents to the eye a pretty flower-garden, walled in by huge piles of argillaceous rock, and watered by murmuring streamlets whose banks are ornamented with shade trees and shubbery.
Near camp had been the scene of a fierce and bloody battle between the Pawnees and Sioux, in the winter of 1835. The affray commenced early in the morning, and continued till near night. A trader, who was present with the Sioux, on the occasion, describes it as having been remarkably close. Every inch of ground was disputed — now the Pawnees advancing upon the retreating Sioux ; and now the Sioux, while the Pawnees gave way ; but, returning to the charge with redoubled fury, the former once more recoiled. The arrows flew in full showers, — the bullets whistled the death-song of many a warrior, — the yells of combating savages filled the air, and drowned the lesser din of arms.
At length arrows and balls were exhausted upon both sides, — but still the battle raged fiercer than before.
War-club, tomahawk and butcher-knife were bandied with terrific force, as the hostile parties engaged hand to hand, and the clash of resounding blows, commingling with the clamor of unearthly voices which rent the very heavens, seemed more to prefigure the contest of fiends than aught else.
Finally the Pawnees abandoned the field to their victorious enemies, leaving sixty of their warriors upon the ensanguined battle-ground. But the Sioux had paid dearly for their advantage ; — forty-five of their bravest men lay mingled with the slain. The defeated party were pursued only a short distance, and then permitted to return witliout further molestation to their village, at the Forks of the Platte.
This disaster so completely disheartened the Pawness, they immediately abandoned their station and moved down the river some four hundred miles, — nor have they again ventured so high up, unless in strong war- parties.
About the same time the village on Republican fork of Kansas was also abandoned, and its inhabitants united with the Loups.
The evidences of this cruel death-harvest were 3'et scattered over the prairie, whose bones and sculls looked sad, indeed. One of the latter was noticed, near camp, with a huge wasp's nest occupying the vacuum once filled by the subtle organs of intellect. Strange tenant, truly, of a human scull, — but, perhaps, not an unfit antitype of the fierce passions that whilom claimed it as their dwelling place.
A specimen of the bread-root, (psoralea esculeiita,) was procured from the creek-bank by one of the voyageurs. This is very common in the vicinity of the mountains, and attains a size from twenty to thirty inches in circum- ference. It is taprooted, and generally prefers the rich sandy soil of bot- toms and ravines, — not unfrequently penetrating to the depth of five or six feet. In shape, it is much like the common beet. Its exterior is covered with a thick ligument of tough fibres, curiously interwoven, enveloping a white pulpy substance, which is very sweet and pleasantly tasted.
The day following we proceeded some twenty miles, and camped at a place called the Eagle's Nest.
WOLVES,— THEIR SAGACITY. 61
A few scattcrinof trees at the nVht of the bottom, here mark the transi- tion to the high prairie. One of these was the war-eagle's eyry, upon which slie rears her annual brood, and teaches it to soar far away, or levy tribute from the surrounding v. ilderness.
The proud bird of Jove was yet sailing aloft, in silent majesty, almost lost to vision in the long space of intervening blue that told the grandeur of her flight ; and, tinged with the purple and gold of the setting sun, she seemed looking down with a jealous eye upon the unwonted invaders of h»r earthly home. A few light clouds, garnished with day's departing glory, danced athwart the western sky, as the full moon arose, hasternng to re- enter her nightly pathway, and course amid the array of glittering worlds, and smile upon the wide realms of Solitude ; — while countless herds of grazing buffalo covered the prairies on either side of the broad and silent river ; and naught met the listening ear, save the dolesome hooting of the midnight owl, as she resumed her nocturnal ditty, to enhance the deep melancholy of loneliness ; or the shrill whistlings of the prairie-winds, as they sported in mirth and chanted their requiems to the dying year ; or the terrific bellowings of the hoarse-toned bison, the softening cadence of whose voices sounded trebly mournful as it swept far along and became lost in the distance ; or yet, the dismal bowlings of the halt-starved wolves, that gathered by scores upon every hill-top and renewed, in more piteous accents, their ceaseless concert ; — all these united to invest the scene, so magnifi- cent in itself, with a savage wildness, at once incitive of terror and admi- ration.
In our progress during the day I remarked, at frequent intervals, bare places coated with saline efflorescences, and occasional plats of fine bluish grass, (herba salee,) — appearances quite common from this onward.
Our night slumbers were disturbed by the quick discharge of firearms, which instantly brought every man to his feet, rifle in hand. The cause of this alarm was the appearance of a mad wolf among the caravan ani- mals, and several shots were fired before the guard could despatch him. He proved one of the largest of his species, and looked fearful as his blood-red eyeballs and foaming mouth were exposed by the camp-fire.
In the morning it was ascertained he had bitten nine head of horses and cattle.
The bufl^alo range afl^ords every variety of wolves, common to the moun- tains and regions still further west. Of these there are five distinct classi- fications, viz : The big white, or buffalo wolf ; the shaggy brown ; the black ; the gray, or prairie wolf ; and the cayeute, (wa-chunka-monet,) or medicine-wolf of the Indians.
The white and brown wolves are the most numerous, and follow the buffalo in bands of hundreds, subsisting upon the carcases of such as die of themselves or are slaughtered as their necessities demand.
These wolves behave with great sagacity in their predatory operations, and appear to exercise a perfect understanding and concert of action with each other on such occasions. First, stationing themselves by files at given distances along the course their intended victim is expected to run, two or more of them enter the herd of unconscious buffalo, and, singling
52 A MAD BULL.
out the fattest one, drive it to the track at which their companions await to take part in the grand race. This done, the victim is made to run the gauntlet between two rows of wolves. As it advances, others join their fresh numbers to the chase, till at length, tired down and exhausted in strength, the ill-fated animal falls ready prey to their greediness. The poor creature is first hamstrung to prevent its escape, and then literally devoured alive !
The black wolf is seldom met with in these parts. It nearly equals the white and brown in size, and is fully as large as the common cur-dog.
The prairie wolf is not more than half the size of the above mentioned, and much less ferocious. Its color is of a dark gray, and its fur quite soft and fine.
The cayeute or medicine-wolf compares with the common feist, and is of a grayish color, much like that of the wild rabbit of the States. Its fur is fine and thick, and might be turned to good account for the manu- facture of caps, muffs, &c.
The Indians cherish many superstitious notions in regard to this ani- mal, and hold it in great veneration. They consider it as the messenger employed by the Great Spirit, on special occasions, to herald the approach of events interesting to the welfare of his red children, and for that reason they are never known to harm or molest it.
Just at daylight, a large band of buffalo crossed the river nearly oppo- site to camp. It was headed by an old bull, that led the way, grunting and bellowing as he advanced, as if in mock personation of the bugleman of a corps of cavalry. Some three or four hundred cows and calves fol- lowed, side by side, with marked and regular tread, like platoons of infantry marching in set step to music, presenting a truly comical exhibition.
A voyageur seized his rifle and saluted with its contents the music- master and captain-general of the advancing army, as he was about to ascend the river bank. In an instant the whole detachment to " right about face," and retreat precipitately to the rearward shore, with no other music than the clatter of hoofs and the splashing of water, or order than the confused rivalry for speedy escape from the unexpected presence of danger.
Oct. 20ih. Resuming our course, during the forenoon, the strange de- portment of a buffalo bull near the trail arrested attention.
He was running in a circle, at the height of his speed, and narrowing its sphere at each gyration. Several of us rode out to him, — but he still, continued, (with frothing mouth and protruding tongue, swollen to the utmost distention of his jaws, rolling eye-balls, like globes of clotted gore ; and bellowing for pain,) following the fast-decreasing limits of his strange course, regardless of our presence.
He soon commenced whirling round and round, with faltering, half stumbling steps, and finally fell prostrate before us, apparently in the last paroxysm of mortal agony. In vain he struggled to rise, while his tongue bled from between his jaws, chafed in fruitless effort to close them, and his head, keeping time with the convulsive throes of his fast-waning strength, tore up the prairie-sod and lashed the ground in the mad fury of effort.
BIG JIM STILL UNFORTUNATE. 53
The spectacle was one of the most striking exhibitions of excruciating pain I ever witnessed. Even the rough mountaineers were excited to pity, and gladly alleviated his miseries by hastening his end. A friendly bullet put a period to his sufferings, and placed him far beyond the reach of summer's heat and winter's cold, mad wolves and all the inexpressible horrors of hydrophobia.
At our noon encampment we commenced the process of •' making meat," preparatory to passing a long distance devoid of game ; and, as the reader may be anxious to know what kind of an operation this is, I will explain. It consists simply in cutting into thin slices the boneless parts of buffalo, or other meat, and drying them in the wind or sun. Meat thus cured may be preserved for years without salt. Ropes of raw hide were stretched around the waggons, upon which the results of our labor were left to the finishing effects of the wind and sun as we proceeded, — thus making an important saving in the item of time.
It is astonishing how long a time fresh meat may be kept without injury, upon the grand prairies, in dry weather, when it receives the free access of air. Some of that killed on our first arrival among bufTalo was yet hanging to the waggons, as sweet and sound as ever. I have know^n it to be preserved, in this way, for ten or twelve days in the heart of summer. Meat, packed in snow, while in a frozen state, may be retained fresh for months without injury. I have known an instance of its being thus kept from January till June. The air is so pure and dry, it requires but little effort to preserve meat, for any requisite length of time, almost at any season of the year.
Our hunter, having proceeded in advance of the waggons during the afternoon, was overtaken about sundown at a place selected for night- camp, which he had ornamented with the carcases of three cows, — and there again, was soon witnessed another display of rare feasting, such as mountaineers alone know how to appreciate and enjoy.
The night proved cold and uncomfortable, and the bright-glowing camp fires presented most captivating inducements to the shivering sentinels, as they paced their dreary rounds, to step within its cheering influence. Big Jim, who was on the third " relieve," thought it too bad he should be com- pelled to suffer so much from cold, while a nice warm fire was permitted to waste its kind heat upon the bleak air of night, without so much as one to enjoy its beneficence.
No, it would not do. " Why mayn't I just as well stand guard at the fire, as elsewhere ? I can, I'm sure. I'll stand this time, and not lay as I did before, and then there'll be no danger of falling asleep and burning one's self; nor'll they have the chance to twit me about lying guard and burning shins. I'll head 'em this time, and they wont know the difler- ence."
So saying, he approached the fire, and, giving it a kick, extended his hands towards its blaze, — ever and anon rubbing them together and then again spreading them to receive its pleasing warmth ; then turning his back to partake alike of its comforting influences and obviate the jealousy chat miffht otherwise be engendered between front and rear.
64 JOHNSON'S CREEK.
Now, he stands attent,-- he hears something' move. He stretches himself to his lull height, on tip-toe, and gazes in the hlack envelope of surround- ing night, made doubly obscure in contrast with the refulgence of the camp-fire.
" How dark it has grown !" said .Tim. " What can it be ? Wonder if it's Indians. Pooh ! it's nothing but the wind. Bless me, I can't see the use of a poor devil's standing guard on such a dark night as this ! (step- ping backward still nearer the fire,) he can't see nothing, if he does* Feugh, — what is it smells so ? (turning round.) Good gracious, how hot my back is !"
The mystery of Jim's present predicament is easily explained. The skirts of his jeans coat, having come in contact with the wind-tossed flames, caught fire, and were burned to the shoulders before he was aware of the accident. The garment was rendered entirely useless, and even his panta- loons were burnt to his skin, in several places.
Jim began to think it as bad to stand as to lay guard, and concluded that, of the two, fire was more dangerous than Indians ; — for, one thing was certain, the Indians had never yet injured him, but he could not say as much of fire !
In the morning, as may be supposed, our hero's last mishap was the prolific subject of comment, and the wags were promptly on the alert to amuse themselves still further at his expense :
" Say, would you believe it ! — That's the way Jim 's hit upon to shine in this crowd, — he burns up his old coat to make a light .'"
" Ah, ha ! So he means to shine by the light of his old clothes, and come it over us in an underhand manner ! Jim, that '11 never do ; — I tell you, once for all."
" Wonder if he wont burn up himself next ?"
" He ? No. He's too green and sappy to burn himself, and so he takes his old clothes !"
" Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, lose hat, stick coat in him fire ! Poor fellow. No can do without Jim, no how."
The third day succeeding the last mentioned adventure, we passed a stream, called by the traders Johnson's creek, in memory of a man by that name who was murdered in its vicinity, several years since, by the Indians.
He was a missionary, and on his way to Oregon, with a party headed by one John Gray. As they were about to raise camp, one morning, a band of Yanktau-Sioux came charging over the hills, and preparations were made to resist them. Such a course Mr. Johnson felt scrupulous of acced- ing to, and stoutly protested against it, — affirming it to be wrong.
As the savages approached, the ill-fated man stepped forward to meet them unarmed, despite the remonstrances of his comrades, — imagining the Indians would not kill him, as he was a missionary and had came to do them good.
They, however, proved regardless of him or his intended good, and he fell the victim of his own foolish credulity. Three Indians fell in the con- flict that ensued, and he and they filled the same grave.
THE BRAVE BEAR.
Oct. 24//i. About noon we crossed Gonneville's creek, a large easterly affluent of the Platte. This stream also derives its name from a trapper, killed near it in an Indian fight, some eight years since.
Upon the south bank of Gonneville's creek, ten or twelve miles from the river, is a singular natural formation, known as the Court House, or McFarlan's Castle, on account of its fancied resemblance to such a struc- ture. It rises in an abrupt quadrangular form, to a height of three or four hundred feet, and covers an area of two hundred yards in length by one hundred and fifty broad. Occupying a perfectly level site in an open prairie, it stands as the proud palace of Solitude, amid her boundless do- mains.
Its position commands a view of the country for forty miles around, and meets the eye of the traveller for several successive days, in journeying up the Platte. We have been in sight of it for three days, and even now seem no nearer than at first, notwithstandfng our course, meanwhile, has borne not far from a direct line towards it.
Here, for the first time, I remarked the deceptivcncss of distances, on the high prairies and in regions adjacent to the mountains. Sometimes an object will appear as if within a mile, at most, which cannot be reached short of fifteen or twenty miles ; then, again, objects will seem to be much further off than they really are.
I attribute this, in part, to three several causes : — First, the variable state of the atmosphere, in regard to density. Second, the absence or plenitude of humid exhalations and effluviae in the air of different regions. Third, the peculiar locality of some places in regard to the reception of the sun's rays.
In passing from Gonneville's creek to Fort Platte, we encountered no more buffalo, — these animals having been driven back into the high prairies by bands of strolling Indians.
If the prospect had hitherto been lonesome, it now seemed threefold lonely. The hard-beaten footpaths that had furrowed the bottoms and plains, in all directions, ever since our first entrance to the buffalo range, were still seen ; but, unhonored by tlie presence and unmarked by the foot- prints of their whilom travellers, they looked like the once oft-trodden streets of some deserted city.
Late in the afternoon we were joined by two engages from Fort Platte, whose object it was to hasten our advance. Soon after, we entered upon a stretch of burnt prairie, and were compelled to travel till daylight tlie next morning, before a sufficiency of grass could be found for a camping place.
Oct. 2bth. Resuming our course about midday, we had proceeded only a few miles, when a mounted Indian appeared upon the opposite bank of the river, and accosted us :
" Chay, cullo !— Hanno chaum-pa-monet ha Mena-huska tour ?" (Tell me, friend ! — Are those the Long-knife's* waggons ?)
* This term seems to call for a word of explanation. Our company was designatefl by the Indians as the Long-knife, or American company,— a term by wliich a. I
66 BULL TAIL.
On being answered in the affirmative, he commenced crossing to join us.
Plunging into the river with his horse, lie had proceeded about midway of the stream, when the panting beast suddenly sank into the quicksand, throwing its rider head I'oreraost into the water. At length, having effected a ford, he hurried up to us, profusely dripping with wet. as evidence of the thoroughness of his recent drenching.
First shaking hands with the company, he began to inquire about liquor, affirming the waggons contained that article, and adding, it was " right the Long-knife should bring the fire-water to give to the red. man," as did the Bad-medicine, — but it was wrong to sell it. For his part he would not buy the fire-water. He would buy blankets, knives, beads, and ammunition, — not the fire-water ; but the Long-knife should give it to him.
The personage thus introduced was one of the chiefs of the Brult- Sioux, and sported the name of Marto-cogershne, or Brave Bear. He was a turbulent fellow, that proved the pest of his village traders. Slim and spare-made in person, he was somewhat pale and sickly looking, and seemed about thirty years of age. His arms were a short fusee, with a bow and arrows slung to his shoulders, and a butcher-knife affixed to his belt. His hair was long, parted in front, and turned backwards ; that upon the occiput, being bound in a cluster with panther's skin, hung in a plated cue and almost trailed the ground, while a lone eagle's plume completed his head- dress. A robe enveloped his body, which, with moccasins, leggins, and breech-cloth, constituted his full costume, — a description of dress respond- ing to that almost universally common among mountain tribes.
We were soon joined by others of his people, who eagerly enquired re- specting the amount of liquor brought with us.
Among these were several individuals recognized by our voyagevrs ag old acquaintances ; particularly one, an old chief called Bull Tail, (Tah- tunga-sana,) who was distinguished in attire from all his fellows by the addition of a hair-seal cap and a frock-coat, which he had received as pre sents from the whites.
One of our party gave a favorable account of the old fellow, and related a story much to his credit.
The narrator, during the previous winter, while searching for stray horses among the hills, had become so bewildered he was unable to find his way back to camp. He thus wandered for four successive days, unarmed, with- out food, and with but a single robe for covering. His destiny would, doubtless, have been to perish, had not the kind hearted Tah-tunga-sana discovered him, and, pitying his forlorn condition, taken him to the village, upon his own horse, some twenty miles off, going himself on foot the entire distance. Here, the lost one was treated to the best the lodge of his de- liverer afforded, and, when sufficiently recovered, he was escorted to the nearest station of the whites.
I turned lor another look at the worthy chieftain, who now rode up and greeted his protege witli much cordiality.
Americans are known among them. The American Fur Company, employing almost exclusively Frenclimen, or individuals speaking the French language, receives the appellation of Wah-ceicha, or the Bad-medicine company, — a phrase universally ap- piled to the Frencli among the mountain tribes.
r'unri? cm? tttji? t^ptttv qtof^v t> '\r
THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
A8T0R, LSNJMC AMt
SPEECH OF MARTO-COGERSIINE. 67
He appeared to be about eighty years of age, and was gray-headed, spare-visaged, and much wrinkled. His coat, butto«ed close around him, served for a robe, while his matted ear-locks disclosed upon the one side a raven's and upon the other a hawk's feather, for ornaments. His face, like those of his companions, was hberally bedaubed with vermilion, and each cheek embellished with alternate spots of white and black, by way of variety. His only weapons were a bow, arrows, and a tomahawk-pipe.
As a whole, he presented rather a shabby and ludricrous appearance, that, were it not for the recollection of his worthy conduct, would have ex- cited, in the mind of the beholder, far more of contempt than interest.
A Sioux squaw, the wife of a French engage, accompanying us on her return from the States, now received the marked attention of our visitors. It is rare that an Indian will shake hands with a woman ; but now, they might break through the restraints of custom ; this was a special case; she had visited the white man's lodge, and could tell them many interesting things, — she was something more than a common squaw, — they might shake hands with her. She was accordingly greeted in a most flattering manner, and found tedious employment in answering the numerous ques- tions with which she was plied.
Continuing for a few miles further, we made camp just at nightfall, and were promptly joined by a new recruit of inquisitive visitors, from an ad- joining village.
The whole throng of Indians now numbered some thirty, and demanded a " talk " with the Long-knife. Upon this a circle was formed, with the whites upon one side and Indians upon the other, when Marto-cogershne opened the harangue in behalf of his people.
He commenced in a low, distinct tone of voice. His robe, dawn loosely around him, was held to its place by the left liand, exposing his right arm and shoulder. As he proceeded he became more animated, and seemed to enter into the full spirit of his discourse. The modulations of his voice, its deep intonations and expressive cadences, coupled with a corresponding appropriateness of every look and gesture, presented one of the most per- fect specimens of delivery I ever witnessed.
His speech, as imperfectly translated upon the occasion, rnn as follows :
" Long-knife : We are glad to see you — we are glad to see your people, and shake you all by the hand, that we may smoke together and be friends.
" Long-knife : We are glad the Great Spirit has put it into your heart to return with the road-travellers, (waggons,) and the white butl'alo, (oxen,) and the medicine-dogs, (horses,) bearing fire-water, (whiskey,) blankets, and many other good things, ere yet the chill winds and snows have com- pelled His children to light the lodge-fires of winter. Tiie Long-knife brings choice things to the red man, and it is good that we trade. (Ap- plause.)
" The Great Spirit is good to His children. To us He has given the bufialo, the elk, the deer, and the antelope, that we may be fed and clothed, and furnished with lodoes to shelter us frs.'m the storms and cold. To us He has given the mountains and prairies, for hunting grounds. For us He has taught the streams to flow, and planted trees upon their banks, to give
58 THE REPLY.
us food and drink, that we may meet around our lodge-fires with comfort and rejoice in His goodness, even while he spreads his white robe upon the hills, and lays the couch of winter upon the plains.
"All these — all this country — everything that the Long-knife beholds are ours. The Yellow-hair* said truly, — all, all belong to us ; — we have them —the Great Spirit has given them to us, — they are ours ! (Great ap- plause.) ■*■- -^
" Long-knife : You have come to trade with us : — it is good. Your people are wise, and make many things ; — you bring them to us, and we take them ; but we give you robes and horses in their stead ; — we pay you for them all. Yet, the Long-knife pays not for all he takes from us.
" Do I say the Long-kniie steals ? No. The Long-knife will not steal. He says, none but had men steal, and the Long-knife is not bad. Bui yet 'he takes our property without paying for it ! He kills our game, he eats our meat, he burns our wood, he drinks our water, and he travels our country, — and what does he give the red man in exchange for all this ? (Unbounded applause.)
" Long-knife and friend : My people are generous, — they are brave, — they are all soldiers. The Long-knife bears the fire-water in his road- travellers, (waggons ;) — we have heard of it and are glad.
" My people would drink of the fire-water that their strong hearts may become stronger. It is good that they should drink it, — it is good that the Long-knife should give it to them ; that we be twice glad to see him, and bless him in our hearts while we drink around our lodge-fires. (Ap- plause.)
" Long-knife : Would you be our friend ? Then give us the fire-water. My people are generous, but they are brave. The Long-knife has taken our projjerty, let him refuse not the fire-water, lest they be angry and rise like the mountain bear, nerved for conflict. Then will they take it of themselves and avenge the wrongs of the red man !" (Great applause.)
Upon this, the Brave Bear resumed his seat, and the commandant began his reply, which was rendered into the Sioux language, by their inter- preter. The purport of it was :
" It is true, the Great Spirit is good to His children. He made all things of which the Brave Bear speaks, and He has given them to his children. The white and the red man are alike his children; the buffalo, the elk, the deer, and the antelope, with the wood, the water, and the whole country around, equally belong to both.
" I and many people have come as friends, to trade with you. We have smoked with you before. The Long-knife takes nothing from you he pays not for. He buys the things he bears to you in a far distant country, and throws for them the white-iron f He brings them to you and swaps them for robes and horses.
" He takes nothing without paying for it, unless it be that which the Great Spirit has given equally to his children, — the white and the red man.
* This is the name applied, by the Indians, to Gen. Clarke, one of the leaders of tlie first party of wliites that ever crossed the mountains. An allusion is here had to an expression made use of in liis talk to the Sioux on that occasion.
t Silver. This phrase is the Sioux mode of expressing the act of paying money for any article.
TAII-TUNGA-SANA'S ADDRESS. 59
" Would tlie Brave Bear and his people be friends to us ? We are friend- ly— we are generous. We will give tobacco to the Brave Bear, that he and his people may smoke and be our friends. But the Long-knife will not here give him the fire-water. Let him come to the Long-knife's lodge, then shall he have of it a little, that he may bless the Long-knife in his heart. The Brave Bear can have none now.
" The Brave Bear says, his people are generous, but they are brave, — they are all soldiers. Be it so. My people are generous, — they are brave — they are all soldiers ! Does the Brave Bear wish for fight ? My people are ready to either smoke or fight ! The Brave Bear says, unless I give him the fire-water for his people, they will nerve their arms for conflict, and take it ! Will they ? Let them try ! The Long-knife says, let them try .'"
The conclusion of this reply was received with a bad grace by those to whom it was addressed, and created great excitement among them. Seve- ral left for the village, obviously for the purpose of arming and returning with increased numbers to the meditated attack.
Meanwhile our arms were put in a proper condition for resistance, and all needful arrangements made to give the assailants a warm reception should they commence upon us. This done, our commandant brought a few plugs of tobacco, and, laying them before the Brave Bear, said :
" It is good that the Brave Bear and his people should smoke. Here is tobacco, — let him take it to his warriors that we and they be friends ; — or would he rather fight?"
Bull Tail, (Tah-tunga-sana,) who had had hitherto remained silent, now arose and addressed his companions:
"Tah-tunga-sana is grieved at the words of the Brave Bear. Would my brothers fight the Long-knife, and rob him of what he has brought to us, that they may become fools by drinking the fire-water ?
" Who shall then bring us medicine-irons (guns) to kill our meat ; or knives to butcher it ; or blankets and beads lor our squaws ; or the red- earth (vermilion) to paint our faces when we arm for war ? And, who shall bring us all the other things so needful for us ?
"The Long-knife will not do it. You rob him. No one will bring them to us. We shall be without them ! We shall be poor indeed !
" Brothers : Why would you drink the fire-water, and become fools ? Would it not be better that the Long-knife no more bring it to us ? We give for it our robes and our horses ; — it does us no good. It makes us poor. We fight our own brothers, and kill those we love, because the lire- water is in us and makes our hearts bad ! The fire-water is the red man's enemy !
"Brothers: Tah-tunga-sana is old; — will you listen to him. He has been always the friend of the pale-face. When first the Yellow-hair (Gen. Clarke) came to the red man's lodge, Tah-tunga-sana took him by the hand. He will always take the pale -face by the hand. He loves the pale-face. The pale-face is his brother, — he is our brother ! — He brings us many good things.
" Brothers : The Long-knife has spoken well. It u good that we smoke, — that we, and the Long-knife, and his people may be friends. Let us ac-
6
60 THE CHIMNEY.
cept his present, and go to our lodges, and there tell to our children how- kind the Long-knife is to the red man."
The speech was received in silence, — no one expressing either approba- tion or dissent, as the old man resumed his seat. The Brave Bear hung his head sullenly, but said nothing.
The talk had evidently come to a close. At last. Bull Tail arose, and, shaking hands with the commandant and each of the company, took the tobacco and left for the village. The others soon after, one by one, follow- ed his example, and we were finally rid of 'their unwelcome presence ; — not, however, until they had stolen an axe and several other articles, de- spite the strictness of our vigilance.
CHAPTER VII.
The Chimney. — A bet. — Spur of the Rocky Mountains. — Scott's Bluff. — Romantic scenery. — Mimic city. — A pyramid. — A monument. — An elevated garden. — 3Ioun- tain sheep. — A.n Eden. — Death in camp. — The wanderer's grave. — Horse Creek and gold. — Goche's hole. — Arrival at Fort Platte. — Remarks by the way. — Prairie travel. — Locality and description of the Fort. — Indian lodges. — Migratory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. — Scenes at Fort. — Drunken Indians.— Tra- gical event. — Indian funeral.— Speech of Etespa-huska on the death of his father.
Oct. 26lh. Raising camp at daylight we resumed our way, and soon afterwards arrived opposite the " Chimney," an extraordinary natural curi- osity that had continued in view and excited our admiration for some four days past.
This singular formation surmounts a conical eminence which rises, isola- ted and lonely, in the open prairie, reaching a height of three hundred feet. It is composed of terrene limestone and marl, quadrangularly shaped, like the spire of some church, six feet by ten at its base, with an altitude of more than two hundred feet, — making, together with the mound, an eleva- tion of five hundred feet.* A grand and imposing spectacle, truly ; — a wonderful display of the eccentricity of Nature !
How came such an immense pile so singularly situated ? What causes inited their aid to throw up this lone column, so majestic in its solitude, to overlook the vast and unbroken plains that surround it ?
The " Chimney " is situated about three miles to the left of the moun- tain trail, though it seems no more than eight hundred yards distant. Upon this question our party entertained no small diversity of opinion. Some of the less knowing were confident it could not exceed a half mile; and one fellow offered to bet five dollars he could run to it in fifteen minutes.
* Formerly the " Chimney " was much higher than at present, and could be dis- Unctly seen in a clear day as far as Ash creek. The wind and the rain are continu- ally reducing it; and it is said to be full fifty feet less than it was nine years ago. Calculating from this datum, what must have been its altitude no longer remote than a couole of centuries !
A MONUMENT. 61
The banter was promptly accepted, and the " greenhorn," doffing his coat and hat, started in full expectation of winning the wager. But, in- stead of fifteen, it tooLhim forty-five minutes to reach the spot!
The day after passing the " Chimney," we entered a broad defile of lofty ridges, and made camp. This locality is known as Scott's BiuflT, which is, properly speaking, a wing of the Rocky Mountains.
From Ash creek to this place, an almost precipitous wall of arenaceous rock, limestone, and marl, shuts the high prairie from the river bottoms. As the traveller proceeds, this wall or ledge gradually increases in height, and recedes from the river, sometimes to a distance of thirty or forty miles, till it unites in a chain of hills, many of which are covered with stiydy pines, and others are mere heaps of naked sand or indurated earth. The ridge then continues its course until it at leno-th becomes united with the lateral chain of the Rocky Mountains, which bounds the " Plains of Lara- mie " upon the southeast.
At Scott's Bluff these hills crowd themselves abruptly towards the Platte, where they present a most romantic and picturesque scenery.
Our camp was in a rich opening, or valley, two miles wide, and walled in upon the right and left by perpendicular masses of earth and rock, that tower to a height of from three to eight hundred feet. In reaching it, the trail bore leftward from the river, about seven miles, through a level prairie, by which we were inducted to the valley, without any perceptible variation of its general surface.
Near the entrance, upon our left, the spectacle was grand and imposing beyond description. It seemed as if Nature, in mere sportiveness, had thought to excel the noblest works of art, and rear up a mimic city as the grand metropolis of her empire.
There stood the representations of palaces, with their domes and balus- trades ; churches, with their spires and cupolas ; and streets, with their gigantic dwellings, stores, work-shops, and ware-houses. And there, also, were parks, pleasure-grounds, and public squares, all so admirably defined by the agency of the winds and rains of ages, that the traveller might readily imagine himself to have arrived within the precincts of the desert- ed city of some peopleless country, whose splendor and magnificence once more than vied with the far-famed Palmyra of the desert, even in its best days.
To the right arose a pile of sand-rock and marl in pyramidal form, three hundred feet high, that occupied its prairie site detached from hill or other eminence.
Near this stood a more singular natural formation than any pre viously noticed. It described a complete circle, of one thousand feet in circumference, and attained an altitude of not far from four hundred feet. Its sides were of great regularity, and represented masses of solid mason- work, rising abruptly till within sixty or seventy feet of the summit, where they accline in a blunt, cone-like manner, reducing the periphery to one third that of its base. At this point is reposed a semi-spherical form, reg- ularly jutting with a gradual swell upon all sides — then tapering to an oval shape till near the apex, at w^hich the whole mass is surmounted by a rude imitation of sculptured flame, pointing upwards to the sun, as if this
63 DEATH IN CAMP.
strange monument of nature had been erected in honor of the great source of light and heat !
Still further to the right, upon the river bank, is another immense pile, exceeding either of the before described in altitude. It is an oblong square, and presents erect lateral walls upon three sides, leaving upon the fourth a gradual acclivity which faces the river. Its summit expands into a beautiful terrace containing an area of several acres, which at the proper season is adorned with herbs, flowers, shrubbery, and grass, like a pleasure garden upon some house-top, and commands a view of the whole country, lending enchantment to the neighboring scenes. Its base is about one mile long by twelve hundred yards wide, and points endwise from the river towards the valley.
Then comes the continuous wall which bounds the locality upon the ^ right. This likewise presents a level summit, varying from lifteen yards to a half mile in breadth, for a distance of ten miles, when, slowly sinking in its course, it finally becomes lost in the prairie. "
Covered with grass and shrubs, it is the favorite home of the mountain sheep, where she breeds and rears her young, secure in her inaccessible fastnesses ; and ofttimes from its precipitous edge, at elevations of six or eight hundred feet above the adjacent prairie, will her head and mammoth horns bo seen, peering in wonder upon the rare traveller, as he passes adown the valley.
The interval between the two mural ridgfes is of uniform width for about ten miles, and is wa.tered by a beautiful stream nearly the whole distance, when it inducts the traveller to the open prairie, — leaving the immense wall which bounded it upon the leftward, at his entrance, transformed to high conical hills, covered with pines, and almost lost to view in the growing space; while that upon his right, diminishing in size, gradually disappears and unites v/ith the far-spreading plain.
Most of the varieties of wild fruits indigenous to the mountains are found in this vicinity, and also numerous bands of buffalo, elk, deer, sheep, and antelope, with the grizzly bear.
In the summer months the prospect is most delightful, and afiords to the admiring beholder an Eden of fruits and flowers. No higher encomium could be passed upon it than by employing the homely phrase of one of our voyageurs. In speaking of the varied enchantments of its scenery at that season, he said : " I could die here, then, — certain of being not far from heaven!"
Before leaving this romantic spot, feelings of gloom and melancho- ly usurped those of pleasing admiration, by the death of one of our number.
The deceased was on his way to the mountains for the recovery of his health, with a frame fearfully reduced by the ravages of that fell destroyer, consumption. For several days past he had declined rapidly, owing to the weather and the unavoidable exposure incident to our mode of travel- ling. To-day the cold was more than usually severe, and an uncomforta- ble rain and sleet commenced soon after camping. In an attempt to pass from the waggons to the fire, he staggered and fell ; — before any one of us could arrive to his assistance, he had breathed his last.
THE WANDERER'S GRAVE. 63
We buried him upon the bank of the stream that wends its course through the valley. Darkness, with its sable pall, had enveloped the scene as we covered him from view, and left the winds and the wolves to howl his requiem, until the voice of spring shall bid the wild-flowers grow and bloom upon his grave.
This lovely valley had before this witnessed the death-scene of one who left his bones to bleach within its limits. His name was Scott, from whom the neighboring eminences derive their present appellation.
Attracted by the enchanting beauty of the place and the great abundance of game the vicinity affi)rded, he wandered hither alone and made it his temporary residence. While thus enjoying the varied sweets of solitude, he became the prey of sickness and gasped his life away; — and none were there to watch over him, but the sun by day and the stars by night; or fan his fevered brow, save the kindly breezes ; or bemoan his hapless fate, other than the gurghng stream that sighed its passing sympathy be- side the couch of death !
There is a mournful interest and a touching melancholy associated with this simple story, that must thrill with emotion the finer feelings of our nature. The incident, which had so recently transpired, contributed to en- hance these gloomy sensations to an extent I never before experienced. I felt — I cannot tell how. I felt like giving vent to my feelings in verse. — Yet, I cannot write poetry. I made the attempt, however, and here is the result before the reader :
THE WANDERER'S GRAVE.
Away from friends, away from home,
And all the heart holds dear, A weary wand'rer laid him down, —
Nor kindly aid was near. —
And sickness prey'd upon his frame
And told its tale of wo.j, While sorrow mark'd his pallid cheeks
And sank his spirit low.
Nor waiting friends stood round his couch
A healing to impart, — Nor human voice spoke sympatliy,
To sooth his achinor heart.
o
The stars of night his watchers were, — His fan the rude winds' breath,
And while they sigh'd their hollow moans, He closed his eves in death.
Upon the prairie's vast expanse
This weary v^and'rer lay ; And far from friends, and far from home,
He breath'd his life away !
64 HORSE CREEK.— GOLD.
A lovely valley marks the spot
That claims his lowly bed ; But o'er the wand'rer's hapless fate
No friendly tear was shed.
No willing grave received the corse
Of this poor lonely one ; — His bones, alas, were left to bleach
And moulder 'neath the sun !
The night-wolf howl'd his requiem, —
The rude winds danced his dirge ; And e'er anon, in mournful chime,
Sigh'd forth the mellow surge !
The Spring shall teach the rising grass
To twine for him a tomb ; And, o'er the spot where he doth lie,
Shall bid the wild flowers bloom.
V
But, far from friends, and far from home,
Ah, dismal thought, to die ! Oh, let me 'mid my friends expire,
And with my fathers lie.
Oct. Ilth. The day being clear and pleasant, we travelled rapidly, and in the course of the afternoon reached Horse creek. This stream is a large affluent of the Platte, heading in the Black Hills, and, tracing its way in a northeasterly direction, through a timberless country, (in many places mere barren wastes,) makes its debouchment nearly fifteen miles above Scott's Bluff.
The region adjacent to its head is represented as being rich in minerals, among which is gold ; and from my limited information respecting its geo- logical character, I am inclined to accredit the rumor. The story runs thus :
Six or eight years since, Du Shay, an old French hunter, while ranging in the parts above alluded to, on crossing one of the two principal forks that unite to form the main stream, observed a singular looking something in the creek bed, which he picked up. Tt was apparently a fragment of rock, very heavy, and contained numerous yellow specks.
Having deposited it in his bullet-pouch for preservation, subsequently, in approaching a band of buffalo, its weight became so annoying he thought- lessly threw it away. The year following he visited Santa Fe, at which place his pouch was accidentally emptied, and, among its contents, several bright particles, that had become parted from the rock, attracted the atten. tion of tlie Mexicans. These were carefully gathered up, and, upon due examination, proved to be virgin gold.
The old man, on his return, searched diligently for the spot that afford- ed the treasure he had so foolishly thrown away, — but (not being intellect-
PRAIRIE TRAVEL. 65
ually one of the brightest gems of nature's casket, and feeble and childish withal) he was unable to hnd it, or even to decide upon which of tiie two streams it belonged.
Upon one of the affluents of Horse creek, thirty or forty miles south of the Platte, is a beautiful valley, sliut in by two ridges of precipitous hills, known as Goche's hole.
This locality, in wildness and picturesque beauty, claims affinity to the neinborhood of Scott's Bluff. Its area is broad and of several miles extent, — inacessible except at two or three points. The surrounding hills are gen- erally composed of marl and earthy limestone. Towering in vertical walls to the height of many hundred feet, they present the appearance of a strongly fortified place. Tlie soil is remarkably rich, well watered, and timbered, — strikingly contrasting with the nude sterility and desolation of the circumjacent country.
A heavy fall of snow during the night prevented our leaving camp until the fourth day subsequent, when were again en route. Having passed the night of Nov. 1st at Morain's Point, the next day we arrived at Fort Platte. This latter place is situated a short distance above the mouth of Larra- mie river, and is our point of present destination.
From Horse creek to the Larramie river, the bottoms, in many places, afforded dense groves of heavy timber — the more agreeable as we had been so long accustomed to open and woodless prairies.
The geological character of the country is nearly the same with that previously described — though possessed of greater humidity of soil. The formations, noticed in the vicinity of Scott's Bluff and Goche's hole, have merged into strata of limestone of various shades and compactness, with occasional layers of primitive sandstone.
The prairies were beautifully undulating, and covered with lusty growths of dried vegetation. The hills, now and then, were ornamented with a few scattering pines and cedars, which stood like lonely sentinels to watch the progress of changing seasons.
As some of my readers may entertain the design of visiting these remote regions, or passing beyond them to the more distant shores of the Pacific, it may not be deemed a digression for me to present a few hints as to the most advisable mode of travelling upon this long and wearisome journey.
A caravan of waggons should make only two camps per day. Travellers should adopt the rule to start at daylight and continue until ten o'clock, A. M., — then, having halted some six hours, (if it be summer, if spring or fall, four only,) again resume their way till after sundown.
Fifteen miles, upon an average, are as far as an ox team should travel per day, — mules or horses might keep on for twenty miles.
Caravans ought always to lay by in rainy weather, as the wet and irrita- tion consequent upon draught, gall the neck and shoulders of their ani mals and soon render them unfit for service ; — every precaution should be taken to preserve their strength and soundness, as upon them rests tlie sole dependence of a travelling company.
A mounted party ought, as a general thing, to observe the same rules,
66 LODGES OF MOUNTAIN INDIANS.
and not think of averaging over twenty-five miles per day. Tliey might travel later ; but in such cases, they should always proportionally lengthen their noon halt.
In the above manner the entire journey from Indpendence to the Pacific may be performed without injury to animals, or the expenses attendant upon a relay.
Fort Platte, being next to Fort Hall, the most important point on the route to Oregon, calls for a brief description. This post occupies the left bank of the North Fork of Platte river, three-fourths of a mile above the mouth of Larramie, in lat. 42^^ 12' 10" north, long. 105^* 20' 13" west from Green- wich,* and stands upon the direct waggon road to Oregon, via South Pass.
It is situated in the immediate vicinity of the Oglallia and Brule divisions of the Sioux nation, and but little remote from the Chyennes and Arapaho tribes. Its structure is a fair specimen of most of the establishments em- ployed in the Indian trade. Its walls are " adobies," (sun-baked brick,) four feet thick, by twenty high — enclosing an area of two hundred and fifty feet in length, by two hundred broad. At the northwest and south- west corners are bastions which command its approaches in all directions.
Within the walls are some twelve buildings in all, consisting as follows : Office, store, warehouse, meat-house, smith's shop, carpenter's shop, kitchen, and five dwellings, — so arranged as to form a yard and coj^el, sufficiently large for the accommodation and security of more than two hundred head of animals. The number of men usually employed about the establish- ment is some thirty, whose chief duty it is to promote the interests of the trade, and otherwise act as circumstances require.
The Fort is located in a level plain, fertile and interesting, bounded upon all sides by hills, many of which present to view the nodding forms of pines and cedars, that bescatter their surface, — while the river bottoms, at various points, are thickly studded with proud growths of cottonwood, ash, willow, and box-elder, thus affording its needful supplies of timber and fuel.
One mile south of it, upon the Larramie, is Fort John, a station of the American Fur Company. Between these two posts a strong opposition is maintained in regard to the business of the country, httle to the credit of either.
At the time of our arrival at the Fort, two villages of Indians were en- camped near by. Their lodges, being the first I ever saw, proved objects of great interest to me.
The lodge of a mountain Indian consists of a frame work of light poles, some twenty-five feet long, bound together at the small ends, and raised by planting the opposite extremities aslope, at given distances apart, so ns to describe a circle, at the base, converging to a triangular apex, for roof and sides ; — over this is spread a covering of buffalo robes, so nicely dressed and seamed, it readily sheds rain and excludes the fierce winds to which the country is subject. A small aperture at the top, affords passage for the
* Obs. Lt. Fremont, in 1842.
CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE SIOUX NATION. 67
smoke emitted from the fire occupyng the centre ji^round work. The entrance is at the side, where a large piece of undressed bufialo skin (hung from the top and so placed as to be opened or closed, at pleasure, upon the ingress or egress of the inmate) furnishes the simple substitute for a door.
These lodges (some of them containing quantities of roofage to the amount of tenor fifteen bufialo skins) are large and commodious; and, even comfortable, in the severest weather ; the heat from the centre fire, being refracted on striking the sloping sides, communicates an agreeable warmth to every part.
An Indian lodge, in the summer, is admirably adapted to the pleasure of its occupants, — by raising the lower extremeties of the envelope and securing them at a proper elevation, a free passage of air is obtained, which greatly contributes to increase the merits of the delightful shade afforded by the superstructure.
A lodge of the largest size may easily be made to accommodate fifteen persons. The interior is arranged by placing the fixtures for sleeping at the circumference of the circle, which afford seats to the inmates, and thus a sufficient space is left vacant between them and the centre fire.
This kind of dwelling is the one almost universally adopted by the mountain and prairie Indians, and is, perhaps, better suited to their con- diticm and mode of life than any other that could be devised.
Dependent solely upon the chase for a subsistence, the various Indian tribes inhabiting the mountains and countries adjacent can occupy no fixed residences. Contrary to the habits of more eastern nations, among whom agriculture commands attention to a greater or less extent, they are continually necessitated to rove from place to place in pursuit of game.
Give to one of them a bow, arrows, knife, lodge, and running horse, and he is rich, happy and contented. When the erratic propensities of fiie buffalo (upon which is his almost exclusive dependence) compel him to change his location, he has only to pull down his lodge, saddle his horse, and away.
So accustomed are they to this incessant rambling, they regani it more as a pleasure than an inconvenience. 1 have frequently seen hundreds of families moving together, — presenting to the unsophisticated beholder a novel and amusing spectacle, — with their horses, mules, dogs, men, squaws, children, and all the paraphernalia of savage domestic economy, and the rude accoutrements of peace and war, commingled indiscrimi- nately.
The Sioux tribe, to whose country we have now introduced the reader, is, perhaps, the largest Indian nation upon the continent of North America, with the exception of the ancient Mexicans, if indeed they may be called Indians. This tribe occupies a territory extending from the St. Peters, of the Mississippi, to the Missouri, and from thence to the forks of the Platte, and up that river to its head-waters. They are supposed to num- ber not far from eighty thousand men, women, and children, and are divided into many fractional parts, each bearing its ow^n name, yet speaking the same language and claiming a common nationality.
Of these divisions are the Bruits, Oglallas, Yanktaus, Piankshaws,
68 DRUNKEN INDIANS.
Minecosias, Blackfeet, Broken-arrows, and Assenaboins, with many oth- ers whose names have escaped my recollection. The only perceptible difference in language, is, in the pronuciation of words like the following, meallo, apfello and Lacota, — those upon the Mississippi, and some in the vicinity of the Missouri, pronouncing them meaddo, appeddo, and Da- cota.
The members of this nation, so far as my observation extends, are a cowardly, treacherous, thieving set, taken as a body — and are well deserving the appellation of mean and contemptible; though there are some hon- orable exceptions to the remark.
Any effort to civilize them must necessarily prove tedious, if not alto- gether impracticable, while they adhere to their present roving habits ; — though three several missionary stations have been recently established among them, with slight success ; viz : at St. Peters, Lac qui Parle, and Traverse des Sioux. But the Indians of those sections, being under the more direct influence of the U. S. Government, have begun to abandon their former wandering habits, and betake themselves to agricultural pur- suits.
The term Siuox, as applied to this nation, is of Franco-Canadian ori- gin— being a corruption of the word sued, and means dnink or drunken, — in allusion to their excessive fondness for liquor and predilection to inebri- acy. The name by which they call themselves, and are known among other tribes, is Lacota, or Cut-throats, — for such is the literal meaning of . the term ; and rarely, indeed, w^re ever a pack of scoundrels more justly entitled to the appellation.
The night of our arrival at Fort Platte was the signal for a grand jollifi- cation to all hands, (with two or three exceptions,) who soon got most gloriously drunk, and such an illustration of the beauties of harmony as was then perpetrated, would have rivalled Bedlam itself, or even the famous ;ouncil chamber beyond the Styx.
Yelling, screeching, firing, shouting, fighting, swearing, drinking, and such like interesting performances, were kept up without intermission, — and woe to the poor fellow who looked for repose that night, — he might as well have thought of sleeping with a thousand cannon bellowing at his ears.
The scene was prolonged till near sundown the next day, and several made their egress from this beastly carousal, minus shirts and coats, — with swollen eyes, bloody noses, and empty pockets, — the latter circumstance will be easily understood upon the mere mention of the fact, that liquor, in this country, is sold for four dollars per pint.
The day following was ushered in by the enactment of another scene of comico-tragical character.
The Indians encamped in the vicinity, being extremely sohcitous to imi- tate the example of their " illustrious predecessors," soon as the first tints of morning began to paint the east, commenced their demands for fire- water ; and, ere the sun had told an hour of his course, they were pretty well advanced in the state of " how came ye so," and seemed to exercise their musical powers in wonderful rivalry with their white brethren.
Men, women, and children were seen running from lodge to lodge with
AN INDIAN FUNERAL. 69
vessels of liquor, inviting their friends and relatives to drink ; while whooping-, singing, drunkenness, and trading for fresh supplies to admin- ister to the demands of intoxication, had evidently become the order of the day. Soon, individuals were noticed passing from one to another, with mouths full of the coveted fire-water, drawing the lips of favored friends in close contact, as if to kiss, and ejecting the contents of their own into the eager mouths of others,— thus affording the delighted recipients tests of their fervent esteem in the heat and strength of the strange draught.
At this stage of the game the American Fur Company, as is charged, commenced dealing out to them, gratuitously, strong drugged liquor, for the double purpose of preventing a sale of the article by its competitor in in trade, and of creating sickness, or inciting contention among the Indians, while under the influence of sudden intoxication, — hoping thereby to induce the latter to charge its ill effects upon an opposite source, and thus, by destroying the credit of its rival, monopolize for itself the whole trade.
It is hard to predict, with certainty, what would have been the result of this reckless policy, had it been continued through the day. Already its effects became apparent, and small knots of drunken Indians were seen in various directions, quarrelling, preparing to fight, or fighting, — while others lay stretched upon the ground in helpless impotency, or staggered from place to place with all the revolting attendencies of intoxication.
The dram-a., however, was here brought to a temporary close by an inci- dent which made a strange contrast in its immediate results.
One of the head chiefs of the Brule village, in riding at full speed from Fort John to Fort Platte, being a little too drunk to navigate, plunged headlong from his horse and broke Ms neck when within a few rods of his destination. Then was a touching display of confusion and excitement. Men and squaws commenced bawling like children ; — the whites were bad, very bad, said they, in their grief, to give Susu-ceicha the fire-water that caused his death. But the height of their censure was directed against the American Fur Company, as its liquor had done the deed.
The body of the deceased chief was brought to the Fort, by hie rela- tives, with a request that the whites should assist at its burial ; but they were in a sorry plight for such a service. There, however, were found sufficiently sober for the task, and accordingly commenced operations.
A scaffold was soon erected for the reception of the body, which, in the mean time, had been fitted for its last airy tenement. This duty was performed by the relatives of the deceased in the fol/owing manner : it was first washed, then arrayed in the habiliments last worn by Susu- ceicha during life, and sewed in several envelopes of lodge-skin, with the bow, arrows, and pipe once claiming him as their owner. This done, all things were ready for the proposed burial.
The corpse was then borne to its final resting place, followed by a throng of relatives and friends. While moving onward with the dead, the train of mourners filled the air with their lamentations and rehearsals of the virtues and meritorious deeds of their late chief.
Arrived at the scaffold, the corpse was carefully reposed open it facing the east, while beneath its head was placed a small sack of meat, tobacco and vermilion, with a comb, looking-glass, and knife, and at its ieei, a small banner that had been carried in the procession. A covering of
70 SPEECH OF LONG BOW ON THE DEATH OF HIS FATHER.
scarlet cloth was then spread over it, and th? body firmly lashed to its place by long strips of raw hide. This done, tlie horse of the chieftain \Was produced as a sacrifice for the benefit of his master in his long journey to the celestial hunting ground.
The above mode of sepulture is that commonly practised by the moun- tain tribes. It is seldom indeed they ever dispose of their dead in any other way than by placing them either upon scaffolds, branches of trees, or in some elevated position, not unfrequently covered by lodges, where they are left to moulder and waste in the winds and rain, till the bone?, falling one by one upon the prairie, are gathered up by surviving friends, and finally entombed in mother earth.
The corpse of the ill-fated man being thus securely fixed in the airy couch assigned it, to await the speedy process of dissolution, and mingle with its kindred earth, that its bones might find their proper places be- neath the prairie sod, the village once acknowledging him as its head now met round the scaffold, men. women, children, and little ones, to bewail the sad fate that had bereaved them of their loved chieftain.
First, encircling it at a respectful distance, were seated the old men, next the young men and warriors, and next the squaws and children. Etespa-huska, (Long Bow,) eldest son of the deceased, thereupon com- menced speaking, while the weeping throng ceased its tumult to listen to his words :
" Oh, Susu-ceicha ! thy son bemourns thee, even as was wont the fledgelings of the war-eagle to cry for the one that nourished them, ere yet thy swift arrow had laid him in dust. Sorrow fills the heart of Etespa-huska ; sadness crushes it to the ground and sinks it beneath the sod upon which he treads.
"Thou hast gone, oh Susu-ceicha! Death hath conquered thee, whom none but death could conquer ; and who shall now teach thy son to be brave as thou was brave ; to be good as thou wast good ; to fight the foe of thy people and acquaint thy chosen ones with the war-song of triumph ! to deck his lodge with the scalps of the slain, and bid the feet of the young move swiftly in the dance 1 And who shall teach Etespa-hus- ka to follow the chase and plunge his arrows into the yielding sides of the tired bull 1 Who shall teach him to call for his prey from the deer, the elk, and the antelope, as thou hast done, or win honors from the slaughtered bear 1
" None. Etespa-huska has no teacher. He is alone. Susu-ceicha is dead !
" But thou wilt soon gain the happy country. Thy journey is short. There wilt thou bestride the fleet horses that never tire, and roam amid the fruits and flowers, the sweet waters and pleasure-groves of that lovely clime ; for thou art worthy.
"And, oh, Wakantunga! (Great Spirit,) do thou pity Etespa-huska. Do thou teach him to be brave and good like his father, for who is there to pity or teach him now he is left alone !"
Then, turning to the audience he continued :
" Brothers : Strong was the arm of Susu-ceicha, and fleet was the arrow shot from his bow. Thirty and five of the enemy hath he slain in battle, whose waving locks were the trophies that ofttimes measured the quick
THE COAST CLEAR. 71
step of the scalp-dance. Fourscore and ten were the medicine-dogs he brought from the land of the foeman, that their shrill neighings might greet the ears, and their strong backs carry the people he loved ; for brave was the heart of Susu-ceicha !
"What warrior ever came to his lodge and went hungry, or naked, or needy away 1 What widow or orphan of his people blessed not their chief, when he returned from the chase and apportioned to them their wonted dues from the choice spoils of the bufialo ] for generous was the soul of Susu-ceicha.
" Brothers : Susu-ceicha is dead. No more shall his voice be heard in your councils, or his courage lead you to victory, or his generosity rejoice the hearts of the needy, the widow, and the orphan. Etespa- huska laments a father and a teacher. The Burnt-thighs* a mighty chieftain ; and the nation its bravest warrior ! We all mourn him ; sor- row fills the hearts, and tears wash the cheeks of his people. It is good that we bemourn him, and mingle with the winds the voices of our lam- entation, for w^ho shall now stand in the place of Susu-ceicha.
" Brothers : Let us stamp his memory upon our hearts and imitate his virtues, that our acts may rear to him a living monument, which may endure till time itself shall die !"
No sooner had the orator ceased, than a tremendous howl of grief burst from the whole assemblage, men, women, and children, which was re- newed in quick succession for several hours, when finally the bewailing multitude retired to their lodges.
CHAPTER VIII.
Coast clear, and Trade opened. — More visitors. — Smoking out the natives, — Inci- dent illustrative of Indian character. — Expeditions for trade. — Black Hills. — Raw- hide.— An Indian and a buffalo chase. — Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. — L'eau-qui-court. — Remarks. — Lost. — ^WMte river ; its valley, frmts, and game. — Building site. — The Devil's Tea-pot. — Troubles with Indians. — Theft and its punishment. — ^Indian soldiers.— Christmas extras. — Outrageous conduct.— Raa- caUty of traders.— " That Old Serpent."— Indian superstition, reUgious tenets and practices. — Notions upon general morality.
The events of the day had for the present put an eflTectual stop to dissi- pation among the Indians, and not long afterwards they began to pull down their lodges and remove to the neghborhood of buffalo, for the purpose of selecting winter-quarters.
The disgusting scenes connected with our arrival at the Fort had pretty much ceased on the evening of the second day, and everything, with a few exceptions, began to assume its wonted aspect.
* This is the interpretation of the Indian name which the French have supplied by the word Brule. -
72 EXPEDITION TO WHITE RIVER.
The winter trade was now considered fully opened. Parties were sent with goods from the Fort to different villages, for the purpose of barter, and affairs began to show a business-like appearance.
Some two weeks subsequently, a band of Brules arrived in the vicinity. They had come for a drunken spree, and soon opened a brisk trade in liquor.
Our visitors crowded the Fort houses in quest of articles of plunder, and became an incessant source of annoyance to the engages. One room, in particular, was thronged almost to the exclusion of its regular occu- pants. The latter, losing all patience, at length hit upon a plan to rid themselves of the intruders.
After closely covering the chimney funnel, by aid of some half rotten chips a smoke was raised ; the doors and windows being closed to prevent its egress. In an instant the apartment became tilled to suffocation, — quite too much so for the endurance of the wondering savages, who gladly with- drew to gain the pure air of the exterior. On being told it was the Long- knife's medicine,* they replied :
" Ugh ! Wakea sutiello ha Mena-huska tour !" (Ugh ! The Long-knife's medicine is strong !)
During their stay at the Fort, an incident occurred which will serve to illustrate a singular trait in the character of these Indians.
A brave, named Bello-tunga, (Big Eagle,) received a blow over the head from a half crazed drunken trader, which came very near terminating in serious consequences. What would have been the result, it is hard to tell, had not the whites promptly interfered, and, with much effort, succeeded in pacifying the enraged savage by presenting him a horse.
At first he would admit of no compromise short of the offender's blood — he had been struck by the pale-face, and